Brighter RF Headlight bulb

[Colapop]

Someone teach me about headlight bulbs. I've seen the thread about the guy with/getting the HID bulb. I want to get a brighter bulb for the RF. I want to get something is right for the bike and throws off good light. What do I need to know?

[xwhatsit]

I reckon start off by just buying a new bulb. The original bulb in my CB was probably 10 or so years old -- apparently technology has advanced significantly, so that 45W rated bulb (or whatever the figure was) was much less brighter than a brand new 45W bulb. You can get higher rated bulbs than the recommended ones, too; don't go excessively high though otherwise you'll put a lot of strain on the wiring and I've even heard of plastic headlights getting melted.

Phillips do a series of high performance ones `X-Treme Power' and silly words like that, 80% more grunt for the wattage; more expensive and different coloured too I think.

Check the condition of the reflectors in your headlight; if the shiny mirror bit is in shit condition, that will severely affect the headlight power.

HID is on a different planet, though. It's a funny thing riding along at night and seeing your own shadow in front of you (despite your own headlight lighting up the road) because the geezer behind you forked out on an HID kit.

[Max Preload]

http://www.kiwibiker.co.nz/forums/showthread.php?t=60219

[F5 Dave]

Well covered in that thread & for the first time Pancakes has something valid to say.

I've improved the lighting in my RF step by step, first was one of those "50% better" Navara bulbs in 55/60. Didn't want to go crazy & was wary of Suzuki electrics esp as have heated grips & Vest when the wiff is on back. It helped but I decided to measure the volt drop & I was losing ~ 1V from the bulb so I added a relay which helped again.

In the end the RF headlight is merely adequate now. Poo design is hard to overcome. I would never put a brute force bulb in without a relay.

[Colapop]

I'll study that thread in some depth coz Im thinking I really need to add a relay... can't be too hard .. right?

Thanks for the help guys...

[Max Preload]

No, it's not hard to add a relay but if you go with a +50 you don't need to.

[F5 Dave]

. . It helped but I decided to measure the volt drop & I was losing ~ 1V from the bulb so I added a relay which helped again. . .

Well it is just warming the wires & switch contacts if you don't. Did help.

[Colapop]

So a relay does what, exactly? Is there a aftermarket or equivalent headlight on another model that I can just stick in there? There was some mention (in the other thread/s) of a shit reflector is a shit reflector and a new bulb is not going to change that.

[F5 Dave]

A relay (avail as a headlight relay from Repco, supercheap or whatever, size can vary) is just a remote switch connecting power direct from the battery (via a fuse please) so there is no drop through the rest of the system. This switch is operated by the existing Hi/Lo output to the headlight. I think I made an adapter to plug into the original headlight plug to run the relay. Bit long ago.

[Colapop]

Well lo and behold, looky what I found...

For a BMW but hey... (http://www.r1200gs.info/howto/relay.html)

[F5 Dave]

That's a good start, but is not a headlight relay persay, he was only using on driving lights so switched like an accessory by high beam. You need both of course. You could use 2 relays, but a headlight one is more convenient. Of course they can be rather big if made for 2 hua car lights. Read up some more & find a suitable one.

[imdying]

I can confirm that the relay Dave describes does exist, is easy to wire in, and is perfect for the job.

[Max Preload]

So a relay does what, exactly?

It's just a heavy duty contact set. It saves running a heavy cable to the control switch. Think starter motor and imagine running that size cable to the starter button. A starter solenoid (relay) is the reason you only have a thin cable to the switch - the currrent drawn by the motor goes through the solenoid, not the starter switch - the starter switch just controls the electromagnetic field that causes the contactor/relay contacts to close so is just a switch operating a much heavier switch.

Jaycar have relays them with pre-wired connector blocks if you want. $8 or something like that for up to about 60A from memory (not that you'll need anywhere near that size and the voltage drop difference between that and a 20A will be negligible anyway).

[Pancakes]

Well covered in that thread & for the first time Pancakes has something valid to say...................


Well it was an accident but I guess with enough posts I had to mess up and make sense eh!!

Here's the relay that should have been popped into Col's mailbox at sometime today but with Christmas maybe tomorrow?

Fuses are for pussies, live on the edge Dave!!

edit, there's a 100/130W Narva bulb in there too, he's a few cable ties away from reasonable illumination without going broke.

[Colapop]

AWESOME!! Is the only way to describe the increase in light output. I'd post a pic or two of the install but I didn't take any when I was reassembling the bike (Sorry). As far as being seen goes... I have never had so many people move aside without me even being close. I mean I don't sit on anyones bumper (std following distances etc) but these people just move them selves aside.. like "Hey Presto!!"
Haven't done the night time full beam test yet but will do shortly...

Pancakes is da man!!

[Pancakes]

No worries!

It was fun to make. I like having an excuse to get the soldering iron out. That'll oulast the rest of the wiring on your bike and save your switches too. Those bulbs are good too eh.

[Colapop]

Yep it is a cool bulb! DAYTIME! Never had so many people get outa my way...