what chain?

[disturbed]

i need a new chain for my bike. are they an easy diy job or not? what chain do i need for my bike or are most chains universal? 88vfr400

[necrolyte]

i need a new chain for my bike. are they an easy diy job or not? what chain do i need for my bike or are most chains universal? 88vfr400

Well i'd say they ain't the hardest thing to do on a bike... as for what chain go for an O-ring chain at least, they require little or no maintainance.

[disturbed]

yeah i was going to go for an o-ring chain. i was meaning what size to get, or is it kinda one size fits all

[Taz]

Chains come in 420 428 520 525 530 630 etc. The pitch will be stamped on the sideplates of you chain. Most likely a 520. To find out the length count the outer plates and multiply by 2.

Edit. My book says 525 chain for VFR400. But then someone could have retro fitted 520 sprockets and chain to it. If sprockets are worn replace them too.

[disturbed]

cool cheers

[disturbed]

how much is it approx for new sprokets and chain?

[xwhatsit]

I payed $200-$250; but that was with everything done for me by the shop, and an O-ring chain. Sprockets were about $70 for the rear, $25 for the front, $130 or so for the chain.

Once this chain has had it, I'll buy a cheap crappy non-O-ring chain and use that to chew through the current sprockets. You're supposed to change both at the same time, as that extends the life of both components, but my chains wear through much faster than the sprockets (low power, but thumper power delivery), so the sprockets will still have plenty of meat; a shame to throw them away.

[FilthyLuka]

how much is it approx for new sprokets and chain?

depends on the quality of both...

a DID o-ring chain and sprocket set for my franken-ginny cost me $140

[toebug]

I paid $210 incl fitting for my DID o-ring chain. Didnt bother with the sprockets cause they looked fine.

Fitting in a pain in the arse especially if you dont have a chain splitting tool. Took the shop about 1/2 hour to change it.

[vagrant]

Your bike is spec'ed for a 525 size chain.
Some people convert to the slightly narrower 520 chain and sprockets for "lightness". It has less inertia as well, so should accelerate faster.:first:
If you can "feel" the difference then go for it, cost is about the same, it possibly won't last quite so long as the heavier 525.
Ideally you want a chain with a riveted link. They are more reliable than the spring clip sort.
Saying that, my Fireblade has a spring clip on it. It has been lockwired, and also has a dab of araldite on it too. I check it post ride. (no point finding it missing just before you want to head out for a ride:Oops:)
I haven't had any problems with it so far. (touches wood)

[Toast]

Well i'd say they ain't the hardest thing to do on a bike... as for what chain go for an O-ring chain at least, they require little or no maintainance.

Not according to these guys:

http://www.quality-cycle.com/truth_about_motorcycle_chains.htm

"One of the biggest “Myths” when it comes to Motorcycle Chains is that a O-Ring chain will last longer than a “non-sealed (not O-ring) Chain! A non-sealed chain with the same Tensile Strength or slightly higher.....will last as long or longer in most cases if lubed about every 2 weeks of riding with a Premium Chain Lube!!!(but not X-Ring Type Chains) The “standard type” O-ring design allows dust, grit, & dirt to get between the inner & outer Side Plates. Sooo, in most cases the lubrication in the chain is gone after around 4,000 miles! Sure you can lube the chain as often as a “non-O-ring” chain & it will last longer, but that defeats the purpose & extra money of buying a O-ring Chain! In most cases, the O.E.M suppliers (RK & D.I.D) don’t even make a O-ring chain in a “Retail Box” anymore except to supply the Motorcycle Manufacturers to package-up as Genuine Honda, Yamaha, Kawasaki, or Suzuki parts!!!!!! Look at the picture on the left & you can see that dust, grit, & dirt can collect on the edges of the seal,,,,,which can eventually wear out the seal because of it’s design! Only one small “Sealing Surface”!"

Not sure about the comment that DID don't make O-Ring chains anymore though.

I'd go X-ring myself

[zx rider]

X RING is the best choice, especially if you downsize to a 520 with new sprockets, as it will be equall strength to the old 525 with not as much weight or maintainance required.My 750 goes 2-3,000kms between adjustments and other riders i know have similar experiences.Lube is sealed in so even a dry looking chain does not wear like the old O ring style would have.:banana:

[F5 Dave]

Do a search on this forum, but the end result is that the chain & sprockets need to be changed as a set, if your chain is knackered so your sprockets will be no doubt. Also new decent chains require some pressing to fit the side plate on, there are tools to do this.

Further a better link is the rivet link rather than a dodgy masterlink & this really requires a proper tool. Which sadly means bikeshop unless a friend has the tool.

[FilthyLuka]

how much is it approx for new sprokets and chain?

depends on the quality of both...

a DID o-ring chain and sprocket set for my franken-ginny cost me $140

[disturbed]

i got a new chain on, rivet link but i got no rivet tool. i just used a screw clamp to press it on. is this good enough or do the pins need to be flared to stop the link coming apart? its on bloody tight, i dont think it will come off *touch wood*

[F5 Dave]

The screw clamp is good enough to get the sideplates on as long as you didn't push the pins a way out the other side (that is normal on a good chain) but not even close to good for riveting it. They need the tool. Any attempts to butcher it with a hammer will likely result in it fracturing it at a later date.

[disturbed]

yeah i made sure the pins are sticking out the right side, just used a spacer over the pins while i clamped it so they had room to come through. will go to the bike shop later and get them to rivet it. im sure they should do it for free. shouldnt take 2 mins

[yod]

yeah i made sure the pins are sticking out the right side, just used a spacer over the pins while i clamped it so they had room to come through. will go to the bike shop later and get them to rivet it. im sure they should do it for free. shouldnt take 2 mins

i did my own x-ring chain and sprockets with a mate - pressed it on in much the same way as you have and then used a rubber mallet and punch to peen the rivet ends - worked fine, done approx 8000kms on it so far, no probs

a LOT easier with 2 people tho...if the bike shop will do it for free or a nominal fee, it's probably worth it

[disturbed]

yeah ill go see them saturday. theres no way it will come loose before then.