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View Full Version : Need some advice, TT250 oil leak!



Damz
8th December 2007, 16:52
Hi guys,

Just got my first bike about two weeks back, an '81 TT250. Sent it straight into the shop and got the timing chain replaced, got it out of the shop a couple days back.

Went out for the first ride today, and its got a lovely bloody oil leak! Nothing major, maybe two drips a second? Still enough to make my ride a worrying one..

Still had a little play, but came home smartly to check it out.

Took off the cover (fark! look all that silicon!), gave everything a good squirt with brake cleaner, let it dry off, then started it. The pink circles in the pic are where the oil was seeping out of. Looks like its already a patchy job to be honest..

PIC! ---->>> http://i9.tinypic.com/6k7iy4i.jpg

My question is, what can I do! My first thought is to clean the silicon that is already there, and put more on! But I dont know how long thatll hold..

Any thoughts welcome!

tri boy
8th December 2007, 19:33
" Devcon" is your freind. Can be purchased from engineering outlets.(normally not on the shelf). Can be machined,filed etc. Two pack NASA product from the 80's.
I've used it to patch/repair way more serious faults than that. Follow the directions, and all will be sweet.:niceone:

tri boy
8th December 2007, 19:45
Since I'm such a nice guy,(and the bourbons havn't totally wasted me).......

Damz
8th December 2007, 19:50
Since I'm such a nice guy,(and the bourbons havn't totally wasted me).......

Brilliant thanks heaps for the pic!! I was searching the devcon site, they make heaps of products!

Awesome, thats what Ill use then, glad to know it can be fixed!

Would you recommend taking all of the old silicoone/putty stuff off, or just put the devcon over all the stuff thats there already?

Cheers bud:2thumbsup

Damz
8th December 2007, 19:54
Actually, I have some of that "knead-it" stuff, wonder if that would be any good?

tri boy
8th December 2007, 20:01
Knead-It is cheap shit. But Devcon costs. Ask/ring around some repair shops to see if you can scab some off them.
All previous sealers must be removed plus paint around the area. It can be shaped with a wet rag while it's curing, but after that it solid as steel.
Try Knead-It. But if it fails go to Devcon.:msn-wink:

Sully60
8th December 2007, 20:02
Actually, I have some of that "knead-it" stuff, wonder if that would be any good?

It does seem to make a mechanically strong repair, but it does tend to weep oil after a short time. Good for temporary repairs but for what you're doing go with the Devcon I say.

Damz
8th December 2007, 20:45
Good as gold.

Thanks guys, will go into bay engineers monday morning. How much is it do you remember?

I bought another devcon product about a year ago, to make some engine mounts, it was $115 for 500gms! But hey, if it means I can ride without worrying, its gotta be worth it!

xwhatsit
8th December 2007, 20:55
Sweet, Devcon, will track some down. The RS is leaking from the head (`They all do that, Mister').

Wired1
8th December 2007, 22:21
Yes this is a common problem with these bikes. When they are new there is a screw beneath all that shit that holds the clutch lever rod in place but when you snap the chain it often wraps around this part of the crank case and smashes the screw out. If you are really unlucky it will have smashed a hole in the crank case as well.
I would chip all that stuff out and have a good look at the original wound. If it's just the clutch screw then clean it thoroughly and use the two part plastic metal stuff they are talking about above and let it cure before starting the engine as the oil pressure will find a way out.
Good luck.

Damz
9th December 2007, 20:09
Iv temporarily fixed it with the silicon I have on hand so I could take it out today, but will do it properly when I can get my hands on the devcon product. (lets be honest, I wont do anything more until it starts leaking again, and then Ill think to myself, I knew I should have listened first time round...:Pokey:)

Wired1
9th December 2007, 20:13
What did it look like under all the old silicon?

Damz
9th December 2007, 20:17
:(

I didnt take the old stuff off, just patched it with more goo. Having said that, it held up nicely today, but will more than likely leak again soon.. As soon as it does, Ill do it properly and let you know how ugly it was under there

Wired1
9th December 2007, 20:33
Well it should hold for an hour or so but I'll bet it's gonna leak :soon:

FilthyLuka
9th December 2007, 22:31
Hi guys,
PIC! ---->>> http://i9.tinypic.com/6k7iy4i.jpg


:eek5::shit:

(something about ten characters?)

Damz
27th December 2007, 18:42
Well, just as everyone said, its not over!

For those interested, heres a pic of what it looks like after I chipped all that shit off

http://i11.tinypic.com/7yfr6u9.jpg

Unlucky aye Wired1?! :pinch:

I went into bay engineers today, and they do have the devcon aluminium putty on the shelf, but it was $160! Fark!!

So as above, Ill try the knead it, see how it holds out, and then if need be, splash out for the devcon..

One thing though, as I was chipping away at the several layers of crap, half a screw fell out. Probably the screw that Wired1 said held the clutch lever rod still. How would you suggest going about gooing that up with knead it? Put the screw in place and then put knead it around it?

And, where should the screw be?

Cheers again!

- Mr half-ass

Wired1
27th December 2007, 19:45
Oh bugger, well you should know that there are plenty of TT250 cases like this around thanks to a stunning design flaw - when the chain breaks it smashes into the case and often takes this screw out (how much more would it have cost to put in a steel chain guard in this area?). The screw that fell out screws into the groove you can see in the clutch lever rod and stops it bouncing out the top of the case. One of my cases has been repaired here and there isn't any sign of the screw nor the original hole - they just tigged over the whole lot I reckon. The first one of these engines I got had this problem and I carefully dismantled the whole engine and rebuilt it with another left hand case. You're not supposed to do this because they machine the cases together as a pair but it worked fine on mine so I probably got lucky. For $160 I would take it along to my local metal fabricator and get them to attempt to weld it up as is with the clutch shaft still in there. The alloy shouldn't stick to the clutch shaft and when it cools down should still move. Failing that - try the knead-it, and push it well in so that it molds around the clutch lever shaft and holds that in too. Don't worry about the screw, it's the least of your worries.

Wired1
27th December 2007, 20:04
Here's a couple of photos of what it should look like. Photo two is the motor I am rebuilding for the next bike and photo 3 is the one that has been welded up and looks to be an OK job.

Damz
27th December 2007, 20:54
Hell that 3rd one has been goo-ed up something crazy!

Thanks for all that, gives me an idea of what Im actually trying to do. This time of year all the engineers are on holiday till early Jan, and even then, theyll be busy as with everyones holiday breakages, so Ill have a crack with knead-it now. (theres that impatience rearing its ugly head again:oi-grr:)

When I was chipping the stuff out, some small, small chunks may have fallen into where the clutch lever is, is that an issue?

First thing in the morning ill get into M10 mega and get a super rough dremel bit, put it into the drill, and rough the case up. Might help a bit..

Iv got a can of cheap brake cleaner, you reckon thats enough to get all the oils etc away from there? Or what would you recommend?

Cheers dude

Wired1
27th December 2007, 21:50
That third photo is actually welded up not bogged. I'm planning on rebuilding this engine so when I do I'll clean it up and get a decent photo of it if I can.
The bottom of that clutch shaft lever pushes the clutch rod across the engine to the other side where the clutch is so it is unlikely any bit falling in will get into the main body of the bottom end. I guess if the bits were big enough they might obstruct the lever movement but if it still works now it should be OK. The special cleaner I use most is petrol - I'd stuff a rag in the gaping fissure (that's hole) before cleaning it up with a small brush and petrol. Tooth brushes normally fall apart so don't borrow your girl friend's one. The edges of the hole look rough enough to take the putty so don't worry too much about the dremmel treatment - you want it rough not smooth.
And if it looks OK post us another picture.

Damz
28th December 2007, 22:13
Well I had a crack at it this morning, and I think it went well!

Cleaned it up really well, and used a scribe to really scratch the hell outta the crank case, hopefully itll bite well.

Heres an updated pic

http://img165.imageshack.us/img165/3798/fixedholeccaserc1.jpg

Havent started it yet, wanted to give it ample time to cure. Will be back with the verdict tomorrow!

Cheers again Wired1

Wired1
29th December 2007, 07:15
Looks convincing, I hope it sticks :)

Damz
29th December 2007, 21:24
Looks convincing, I hope it sticks :)

It stuck :first:

Was riding around all day today, and didnt lose a drop of oil.

Hopefully it stays that way for years!

Cheers again