Briggs and Stratton 4 hp motor

[huck farley]

I would like some advice from the members regarding engine oil. I change the oil in my bike every 6.oooks. My bike takes 3.2 liters. So that leaves me with .8 of a litre left for top ups. But my bike never uses any oil between changes. So I have 2.4 liters left from 3 oil changes. The oil I use in in the bike is a 10-40 fully synthetic.

What I would like to know is. Would the left overs from an oil change be suitable to use in my Briggs & Stratton 4hp motor mower engine when it requires an oil change, which I do twice a year. The book says to use B&S SAE30 oil. Would a fully synthetic oil fuck the B&S engine. Or would the engine benefit from using clean fresh 10-40 fully synthetic oil. A little feedback please.
Cheers HF

[scumdog]

I would like some advice from the members regarding engine oil. I change the oil in my bike every 6.oooks. My bike takes 3.2 liters. So that leaves me with .8 of a litre left for top ups. But my bike never uses any oil between changes. So I have 2.4 liters left from 3 oil changes. The oil I use in in the bike is a 10-40 fully synthetic.

What I would like to know is. Would the left overs from an oil change be suitable to use in my Briggs & Stratton 4hp motor mower engine when it requires an oil change, which I do twice a year. The book says to use B&S SAE30 oil. Would a fully synthetic oil fuck the B&S engine. Or would the engine benefit from using clean fresh 10-40 fully synthetic oil. A little feedback please.
Cheers HF

This is just a test, right?

To see if any of us has picked up that after your bikes next 3.2 litre oil change you will have ANOTHER .8 of a litre to chuck in with the 2.4 litres spare you already have...ta-dah! --3.2 litres of oil waiting for the NEXT oil change...!!!! :bleh:

[Colapop]

Shhh!! Don't use logic. This is KB, that sort of blasphemy is not tolerated here!

[huck farley]

This is just a test, right?

To see if any of us has picked up that after your bikes next 3.2 litre oil change you will have ANOTHER .8 of a litre to chuck in with the 2.4 litres spare you already have...ta-dah! --3.2 litres of oil waiting for the NEXT oil change...!!!! :bleh:

I asked a simple question and expected some advice from perhaps a motor technician, Your message is real DUMB and makes no sense. I don't need a dork such as you honing in on my posts with stupid remarks. Never was a person more aptly named as yourself. You are indeed a SCUMDOG.

[dhunt]

Well I tried running our real mower on Semi synthetic a couple years ago. It didn't go any better and smoked a bit (Used oil). Possibly a bit thin for the old engine?

[scumdog]

I asked a simple question and expected some advice from perhaps a motor tecnision, Your message is real DUMB and makes no sense. I don't need a dork such as you horning in on my posts with stupid remarks. Never was a person more aptley named as yourself. You are indeed a SCUMDOG.

:woohoo::woohoo::woohoo::woohoo::clap::calm:

A scumdog I may be - but a logical one!!:2thumbsup - even if not a 'tecnision'!
(still searching for the 'stupid remark' bit)

So why did you post all the clap-trap about the left-over oil then ya wally?

Why does it matter how you happened to have the oil - all you needed to post was "Is 10-40 fully synthetic oil compatable with a Briggs&Stratton motor-mower engine?"

Simply eh? eh?:whistle:

[Finn]

Some questions...

1) Why do you change your oil every 6 k's?
2) What is a motor tecnision?
3) Does your Briggs & Straton owners manual say "We recommend used oil for extending the life of your engine. If you don't have any used oil, use anything you can lay your hands on or for best results, run it dry."?
4) Exactly, what is the meaning of life?

[Fatjim]

You'll probably find that the briggs and stratton engine, being a fine example of american engineering needs a 30w oil just to fill the huge gaps in the bottom end. You may even find a banana skin to be beneficial.

[Colapop]

:jerry::jerry:

[Mental Trousers]

It's a lawn mower motor that makes 4hp. It's a piece of agricultural machinery, not a high performance, precision motor. The piston to bore clearance is likely large enough that you'll be burning as much oil as petrol. Stick with the 30w.

[Motu]

You'll probably find that the briggs and stratton engine, being a fine example of american engineering needs a 30w oil just to fill the huge gaps in the bottom end.

So that means the 10/40 might be a bit too thick eh? I've heard that stationary engines sometime run way too hot for multigrades and they break down.Basically they just don't need all the stuff that a modern oil has....there is no oil filter so the dirty stuff needs to fall to the bottom and not be suspended for filtering.You can run anything you like,but B&S recommend straight 30.All the oil Nazi's on this site get upset if you use anything but bike oil in your bike - I'm sure they will have stern words to say if you don't use B&S oil in your mower.

[Kittyhawk]

Some questions...

1) Why do you change your oil every 6 k's?
2) What is a motor tecnision?
3) Does your Briggs & Straton owners manual say "We recommend used oil for extending the life of your engine. If you don't have any used oil, use anything you can lay your hands on or for best results, run it dry."?
4) Exactly, what is the meaning of life?

1 - Cos guys cant keep me wet.
2 - Someone who knows how to pleasure a woman.
3 - Peanut oil.
4 - Get laid, ride hard, and who cares.

[scumdog]

So that means the 10/40 might be a bit too thick eh? I've heard that stationary engines sometime run way too hot for multigrades and they break down.Basically they just don't need all the stuff that a modern oil has....there is no oil filter so the dirty stuff needs to fall to the bottom and not be suspended for filtering.You can run anything you like,but B&S recommend straight 30.All the oil Nazi's on this site get upset if you use anything but bike oil in your bike - I'm sure they will have stern words to say if you don't use B&S oil in your mower.

C'mon dude - I went all radical and put 20-50 into my iron-head Sporty instead of the recommended straight 50 weight.

Hell, it started better, idles smoother when cold and never missed a beat so ya can't call ME an 'oil Nazi':bleh::nya:

[cowpoos]

C'mon dude - I went all radical and put 20-50 into my iron-head Sporty instead of the recommended straight 50 weight.

Hell, it started better, idles smoother when cold and never missed a beat so ya can't call ME an 'oil Nazi':bleh::nya:
what brand lawn mower is a sporty?

[Motu]

You fucking idiot!!!!! That's the most stupid fucking thing I've ever heard - it'll blow up tomorrow,I promise you.

[davereid]

Save your good oil for a free oil change every 4-5 fills. B&S motors need a thick, basic oil changed daily. Signed a tecncn.

[Motu]

What makes everyone think 30 is a ''thick'' oil? A multigrade will be a bit more runny at low temps....perhaps you could use 10/30 in winter in Invergargil.These engines have no oil pump,the oil gets flung around with a slinger gear and somehow finds it's way to the bigend.Straight 30 is a pretty good compromise for most conditions.The 10/40 will be great,getting that oil flung around when cold and giving a bit more protection when hot.The quality is irelavent,but remember there is no filter.....

[scumdog]

You fucking idiot!!!!! That's the most stupid fucking thing I've ever heard - it'll blow up tomorrow,I promise you.

WHICH idiot - there's a whole raft of 'em on this thread!! (self included)

[Motig]

"Thick" oil ? Do they have IQ tests then ?

[Finn]

You fucking idiot!!!!! That's the most stupid fucking thing I've ever heard - it'll blow up tomorrow,I promise you.

Watch your mouth cunt.

[kr250]

The B@S manual advocates the use of multi-grade oils in temperate climates, ours,the oil sold by B@S authorized dealers is a rebadged Fuchs oil,and a total marketing con,

[huck farley]

Not much encouragement, So I went and did it anyway. I cut the lawn this morning, The Masport run like a charm, and It also runs much quieter. To those who called me a wally and a fucking Idiot. Sticks and stones. To coin a phrase. I bet you both run Agricultural compressors, and indeed HUCK FARLEY. Thanks to everyone else. Who were less negative than the retards I have mentioned. So you can use a synthetic in your lawnmwer!! They love it.

[scumdog]

Well, ya got me there!:shit:










So now ya have to but another 4litre oil-pack for the bike eh? huh?<_<

[nallac]

Well, ya got me there!:shit:










So now ya have to but another 4litre oil-pack for the bike eh? huh?<_<


But at least he'll have some left over for the mower ??????????.

[Edbear]

But at least he'll have some left over for the mower ??????????.


It seems I've given Scummy too much bling, lately! So if'n I give you some you can pass it on...:niceone:


But I really think you and Scumdog are too subtle for this site:msn-wink:

[eliot-ness]

But at least he'll have some left over for the mower ??????????.

Ahhh, but by the time he gets around to the next oil change the oil left over in the carton will be just as old as the oil he's draining from the bike. Nobody with any sense would put old oil in their engine.:whistle:

[nallac]

Ahhh, but by the time he gets around to the next oil change the oil left over in the carton will be just as old as the oil he's draining from the bike. Nobody with any sense would put old oil in their engine.:whistle:

oh so true, cant use old oil.

now why didn't i think of that?

[huck farley]

You fucking idiot!!!!! That's the most stupid fucking thing I've ever heard - it'll blow up tomorrow,I promise you.

Well I went and done it, on my spannermans advice. In his words. Any higher rated oil you use, will be much better than the old SAE 30 shit they want to knock of to you for $17 a liter. So my B&S Masport mower has brand new 10/40 Q8 fully synthetic in her. I can report to all the no brainers that gave me a hard time. If you brains were gunpowder you wouldn't even blow your crash helmets of.

The Masport cut my large lawn this morning. No sign of oil burn, and only used half the juice I normally use. Also the loud knock has disappeared from the motor. So we live and learn.

[Pixie]

I put USED racing 4T in my mower.It is barely even dirty after being in the bike for 6000 km.15/50 and I change it in the mower every 10 hours.
Still beats the once in a lifetime oil change most mowers get.

[Fatjim]

So that means the 10/40 might be a bit too thick eh? I've heard that stationary engines sometime run way too hot for multigrades and they break down.Basically they just don't need all the stuff that a modern oil has....there is no oil filter so the dirty stuff needs to fall to the bottom and not be suspended for filtering.You can run anything you like,but B&S recommend straight 30.All the oil Nazi's on this site get upset if you use anything but bike oil in your bike - I'm sure they will have stern words to say if you don't use B&S oil in your mower.\

Actually, I beleive 10/40 is a little thinner than 30w when cold, and a little thicker when hot.

Remember one oil does not generally provide for less friction than any other, it's just how they perform in different circumstances: ambient heat, sheer forces, contamination, engine performance, that defines them.

A motor mower engine is a little less stressed than a motorcycle engine. It just sits there most of the time at a fairly constant low RPM with the occaision heavy load if your grass is long. It's not a highly tuned beast and therefor will last a long time if looked after (clean filter and oil).

[Edbear]

Still beats the once in a lifetime oil change most mowers get.



Oh, that reminds me... :niceone:

Or does nine years old mean I'm still running it in..?:rolleyes:

[Edbear]

\

Actually, I beleive 10/40 is a little thinner than 30w when cold, and a little thicker when hot.

Remember one oil does not generally provide for less friction than any other, it's just how they perform in different circumstances: ambient heat, sheer forces, contamination, engine performance, that defines them.

A motor mower engine is a little less stressed than a motorcycle engine. It just sits there most of the time at a fairly constant low RPM with the occaision heavy load if your grass is long. It's not a highly tuned beast and therefor will last a long time if looked after (clean filter and oil).


Mmmmm! "A little thicker when cold and a little thinner when hot... not a highly tuned beast and will last a long time if looked after..." Sounds a bit like me, really...:rolleyes:

[Laava]

http://www.briggsracing.com/display/router.asp?docid=101379

[Motu]

\
(clean filter and oil).

This is actually the most important point,and I've mentioned it a couple of times - the B&S has NO oil filter.Modern oils have dispersants,often incorrectly called detergents,and these keep the contaminants in suspension so they can be transfered to the filter for elimination from the system.One of the reasons B&S recommend a straight 30 is because they are low in dispersants,they know that often these engines run their whole life on just the factory fill,mower maintenance is often nil.For the same reason classic bikes like Triumphs and Nortons etc use a straight weight oil - they have no filters either.Contaminants settle to the bottom and are flushed out on oil change.

[huck farley]

This is actually the most important point,and I've mentioned it a couple of times - the B&S has NO oil filter.Modern oils have dispersants,often incorrectly called detergents,and these keep the contaminants in suspension so they can be transfered to the filter for elimination from the system.One of the reasons B&S recommend a straight 30 is because they are low in dispersants,they know that often these engines run their whole life on just the factory fill,mower maintenance is often nil.For the same reason classic bikes like Triumphs and Nortons etc use a straight weight oil - they have no filters either.Contaminants settle to the bottom and are flushed out on oil change.

I don't think I will have to worry about suspension of hickeys in the oil Motu. I have a thing about changing oils in all my mechanical beasts. The mower gets an oil change at Christmas time, and again in June. I bet there is mowers out there 5 years old that have never had one. They soon pack up and the lawn owner has to buy another new mower.

[Fatjim]

mea
This is actually the most important point,and I've mentioned it a couple of times - the B&S has NO oil filter.Modern oils have dispersants,often incorrectly called detergents,and these keep the contaminants in suspension so they can be transfered to the filter for elimination from the system.One of the reasons B&S recommend a straight 30 is because they are low in dispersants,they know that often these engines run their whole life on just the factory fill,mower maintenance is often nil.For the same reason classic bikes like Triumphs and Nortons etc use a straight weight oil - they have no filters either.Contaminants settle to the bottom and are flushed out on oil change.

I meant air filter. This is really important because of the dust that floats around a lawnmower.

[McJim]

Hmmmmm - I've put 10W40 in the lawnmower....I wonder what will happen when I put 30 in the Ducati.....what fun.

[fuknKIWI]

You'll probably find that the briggs and stratton engine, being a fine example of american engineering needs a 30w oil just to fill the huge gaps in the bottom end. You may even find a banana skin to be beneficial.

Briggs & Stratton made in Milwaukee.
Guess who owns B&S?

[huck farley]

mea

I meant air filter. This is really important because of the dust that floats around a lawnmower.

I'm confused my engine oil doesn't go through the air filter. But if it did I would kill all the worms in my garden, and then the birds would starve, then the ants would have nothing to eat!!! Have I missed anything?

[xwhatsit]

I'm confused my engine oil doesn't go through the air filter. But if it did I would kill all the worms in my garden, and then the birds would starve, then the ants would have nothing to eat!!! Have I missed anything?

Because the air ends up inside your engine, which will do death to your bore, and contaminate your oil as well.

[What?]

I've kept the mower well maintained - air filters, clean SAE 30, good plugs, yahdeyah... And the bugger broke its piston the other day!
B&S engines are not meant to have maintenance...

[huck farley]

I've kept the mower well maintained - air filters, clean SAE 30, good plugs, yahdeyah... And the bugger broke its piston the other day!
B&S engines are not meant to have maintenance...

Well there you go If you had have been running fully synthetic this may not have happened, Bad luck mate, I hope it don't cost you to much dosh to get her up and running!!

[What?]

Nah, I reckon yours will blow up even quicker :eek5:. B&S motors should keep the factory oil in them until death. In fact, I don't know why they have an oil filler or drain plug... :whistle:

Oh well, I just hope the bore is OK - a piston and ring kit is pretty cheap. Probably throw new mains and big end in as well, then she'll be good for another 12 years.

[smoky]

the B&S has NO oil filter.Modern oils have dispersants,often incorrectly called detergents,and these keep the contaminants in suspension so they can be transfered to the filter for elimination from the system.

If I ever bought a second hand car and had no idea of it's service record, I would drian the oil and run it on diesel engine oil for a while, for a month or so, then change the oil and filter again. Oil for a diesel engine has way more detergents than normal and it really cleans out your engine well.


One of the reasons B&S recommend a straight 30 is because they are low in dispersants,they know that often these engines run their whole life on just the factory fill,mower maintenance is often nil....- they have no filters either.Contaminants settle to the bottom and are flushed out on oil change.

My old lawn mower had a Tecumseh engine – never changed the oil in 12 years, motors now running a friends go cart because it out lasted the mower body.

[smoky]

What I would like to know is. Would the left overs from an oil change be suitable to use in my Briggs & Stratton 4hp motor mower engine when it requires an oil change, which I do twice a year. The book says to use B&S SAE30 oil. Would a fully synthetic oil fuck the B&S engine. Or would the engine benefit from using clean fresh 10-40 fully synthetic oil. A little feedback please.
Cheers HF

Of course you can use a multi grade synthetic in your old B&S. Oil grades are based on a viscosity range at a standard temperature; the higher the viscosity, the higher the SAE grade number. These numbers, which range from 0 to 50 or higher, are referred to as the "weight" of the oil.
The letter "W" is the oil's cold-weather weight, as in 10W, which is gauged by the oil's viscosity at 0 °F. The warm-weather weight is based on the viscosity measured at 210 °F.
High-molecular-weight polymers improve the viscosity and are added to oil base stock to create multigrade oils that maintain the ability of the oil at different tempretures. At cold temperatures the oil is thick and the polymers are ‘balled-up’, and at warmer temperatures they expand to prevent oil from thinning out too much, maintaining a constant viscosity and protecting your engine in all conditions.

[smoky]

“The 3000-mile interval made sense when engines used single-grade nondetergent oils. But with the latest oils and car designs, it's no longer necessary to change oil that often under normal driving conditions.
Synthetic oils, because of their better properties, need to be changed less often, at intervals up to 25,000 miles or more.”
Chemical & Engineering News
ISSN 0009-2347
Copyright © 2006 American Chemical Society

Interesting thought - If you're not concerned about vioding a warrenty I might consider that advice from American Chemical Society, I wonder who they are?

Mind you doing an oil change makes you feel very caring and responsible - have we been brainwashed?

[What?]

My old lawn mower had a Tecumseh engine – never changed the oil in 12 years, motors now running a friends go cart because it out lasted the mower body.

It must have been a dud - Tecumseh engines are designed to blow up five minutes after the warranty expires (said the man with a broken B&S...)

[huck farley]

Of course you can use a multi grade synthetic in your old B&S. Oil grades are based on a viscosity range at a standard temperature; the higher the viscosity, the higher the SAE grade number. These numbers, which range from 0 to 50 or higher, are referred to as the "weight" of the oil.
The letter "W" is the oil's cold-weather weight, as in 10W, which is gauged by the oil's viscosity at 0 °F. The warm-weather weight is based on the viscosity measured at 210 °F.
High-molecular-weight polymers improve the viscosity and are added to oil base stock to create multigrade oils that maintain the ability of the oil at different tempretures. At cold temperatures the oil is thick and the polymers are ‘balled-up’, and at warmer temperatures they expand to prevent oil from thinning out too much, maintaining a constant viscosity and protecting your engine in all conditions.


Thank you for the post. It is really assuring to know I have done the right thing.

I have cut the lawn twice now since running on Q8 10-40 fully synthetic oil. In that time I have kept a very close eye on the oil level, and looked for any smoke coming from the exhaust.

I can report that it is doing neither. Also I posted in a previous post that the knocking seems to have disappeared when running over some real thick and long grass. I have to put that down to the Q8 oil. As I can think of no other reason.

Also Thanks for explaining the properties of the various numbers we see on the oil we purchase. I found it to be very informative.

So to all posters that called me a dickhead, firkin Idiot, Muppet, silly carn't and other abusive and uninformed posts. It is you people that need also to take Smokys post on board. I had a gut feeling something positive would pop up sooner of later.

This forum is a great leveler, and also very informative. It just goes to show that a day you don't learn something new. Is "indeed" a day wasted.

Thanks Smoky for pointing the facts out. That it is indeed very safe to use a synthetic oil in Briggs & Stratton, lawn mower engine.

[raftn]

try olive oil! or even baby oil hear it lubricates really well!

[roadracingoldfart]

Can anybody explain why i just read 4 fuckin pages of totally contradictory dribble about a bloody lawnmower ???? :wacko:

looks around for the suicide pack

Next thing is we will hear from an advocate of fully synthetic oil in a wet clutch engine .

[CookMySock]

ahh cool, my R1 is knocking a bit, I might try that oil out and see if it fixes it.

DB

[fuknKIWI]

Aaw c'mon time to get serious:woohoo::woohoo:

http://i260.photobucket.com/albums/ii16/Trickypiccies/100_2021.jpg

http://i260.photobucket.com/albums/ii16/Trickypiccies/100_2019.jpg

http://i260.photobucket.com/albums/ii16/Trickypiccies/100_2016.jpg

[SMOKEU]

I hate it how those pull start coils come out of the B&S pull start engines. Great engines, shit starter.