HELP!!! having clutch bleeding problems

[GSXR_BIKER]

Hi All, I have an old GSXR750 '87, been doing up for the last 6mths, just repainted and cleaned Fluid clutch system, when I put back togeather, I cant seeem to bleed it, Fluid comes out the bleed tube, but clutch wont harden up, Think I am doing it right, even replaced the Master cylinder to see if that was the problem, Any suggestions?

[98tls]

Hi All, I have an old GSXR750 '87, been doing up for the last 6mths, just repainted and cleaned Fluid clutch system, when I put back togeather, I cant seeem to bleed it, Fluid comes out the bleed tube, but clutch wont harden up, Think I am doing it right, even replaced the Master cylinder to see if that was the problem, Any suggestions? Is it flowing out or spurting out ie still air coming out as well,can go on for quite some time.

[GSXR_BIKER]

Not really sure, sometimes nothing when Ive pumped the lever, then other times a bit of fluid and Air, then other times when I have tightened valve few air bubbles? Been pumping lever anb Bleeding for ages, fluid level in resivour dosnt seem to drop very fast at all, Really frustrated??

[98tls]

If the level is not going down much then keep pumping..probably not what you want to hear but by the sounds of it the thing is full of air.

[manwithav8]

Is the bled nipple on facing downward or upward? Air in the fluid will sit in the nooks and crannies at the top of the caliper, if the nipple is on the lower side of the caliper you will NEVER get all the air out....

If your unfortunate to have a caliper with the nipple on the lower side, unbolt the caliper and turn it up the other way, ensure though you have something clamped between the brake pads otherwise you might shoot the piston/s out..

Report back here after trying this method :scooter:

[98tls]

:corn:No rush as ive plenty of bourbon.

[manwithav8]

:corn:No rush as ive plenty of bourbon.

damn it, I'm down to 2 Corona's and a bottle of scrumpy.... Beys hurry mate lol

[GSXR_BIKER]

Hi, Nipple is facing up, Been pumping the damn lever for 30 or so mins, ready to set fire to it!! LOL

[98tls]

damn it, I'm down to 2 Corona's and a bottle of scrumpy.... Beys hurry mate lol Scrumpy....good on ya,havent had one of those for ages,interested to see how this pans out,if i read right he started with empty lines so a pumping he must go..and go....and go:apint:

[sAsLEX]

If its been empty for a while you best bet is to use a powerbleeder of some description and pump some fluid into the system

like this one I prepared earlier
http://www.kiwibiker.co.nz/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=42611&d=1159167365

from thread of similar bent
http://www.kiwibiker.co.nz/forums/showthread.php?p=764897#post764897



on Tui, but have a bottle of Jack at the ready

[98tls]

Hi, Nipple is facing up, Been pumping the damn lever for 30 or so mins, ready to set fire to it!! LOL sure your not pumping the wrong lever;)just kidding mate,30 minutes is way to long.what puzzles me is you say its not droping the level very fast.At what stage are you tightning the nipple?

[R1madness]

this will work but be careful.
Go to a pet shop. Buy a 1.5 meter length of 6mm internal diameter fish pump air hose, attatch it to the bleed nipple at the slave (bottom) cylinder. Hold the top of the hose above the master cylinder. make sure the master cylinder is full and you keep a constant check of the level from here on. Open the bleed nipple. Suck on the hose keeping one eye on the level of the fluid in the master cylinder (dont let it get low) and the other eye on the clear hose making sure you do not get brake fluid in your mouth. When you have sucked fluid more than 1 meter up the clear hose the clutch will blead up as normal.
Happy riding.

[manwithav8]

Hi, Nipple is facing up, Been pumping the damn lever for 30 or so mins, ready to set fire to it!! LOL

hhmmm well patience is a virtue then my friend.. OORRRR get a mityvac, and pressure bleed it....Either way you started with empty lines, it is going to take a little while..

[manwithav8]

Scrumpy....good on ya,havent had one of those for ages,interested to see how this pans out,if i read right he started with empty lines so a pumping he must go..and go....and go:apint:

haha yes pump some more laddy...........

[manwithav8]

this will work but be careful.
Go to a pet shop. Buy a 1.5 meter length of 6mm internal diameter fish pump air hose, attatch it to the bleed nipple at the slave (bottom) cylinder. Hold the top of the hose above the master cylinder. make sure the master cylinder is full and you keep a constant check of the level from here on. Open the bleed nipple. Suck on the hose keeping one eye on the level of the fluid in the master cylinder (dont let it get low) and the other eye on the clear hose making sure you do not get brake fluid in your mouth. When you have sucked fluid more than 1 meter up the clear hose the clutch will blead up as normal.
Happy riding.

never tried that one but bloody good idea mate.. You got bling..

[jonbuoy]

I feel your pain, working flat out to get on the road ASAP, bleeding and rebuilding for the last three days for various brake issues. Hands are fooooked from the fluid. R1 madness is onto it, have to prime master and slave before anything will happen.

[Max Preload]

Bleed the master cylinder first (that is to say, remove the banjo bolt, cap the opening with your finger, cover the whole thing with a clean rag and pump the fluid through a small gap on the top side of the threaded hole. Then quickly reassemble the hose and bleed normally).


Go to a pet shop. Buy a 1.5 meter length of 6mm internal diameter fish pump air hose

Cheaper at Bunnings...

[T.W.R]

If the new piston kit has been fitted dry into the master cylinder and there's any hint of scoring within the cylinder bore then you're in for grief either way, priming the system or not.
The piston kit should be fitted wet or at least have a smear of proper rubber grease on the seals.

Or have the piston seals been fitted facing the proper way or not?

[awayatc]

Don't wanna be clever, but '87 bike....have you put back the original rubber brakehose?.....Sounds like you are not getting a closed circuit....If hose is porous, it either expands far to much, or even lets in air...
Braided brakelines came out for a reason.....

Master brake cylinder rubbers can fail to, especialy if they have been sitting dry for a while...
Good luck

[vagrant]

This is getting you loads of advice about bleeding brake units isn't it.:Oops:

Not sure how the Suzuki system is set up, but my VFR clutch was a sod to bleed.
Thats because unlike a brake system, which applies a clamping pressure, the slave piston moves with the lever, operating the clutch pack.

I found the easiest way was to remove the slave cylinder from the engine casing and clutch pushrod, and restrain the piston using a block of wood and a G clamp.

Now the piston cannot cycle back and forward with the lever operation, and you can now pump fluid thru the system, rather just up and down the line.

Hope that helps you out some.

[orangeback]

, I cant seeem to bleed it, Fluid comes out the bleed tube, but clutch wont harden up, Think I am doing it right, even replaced the Master cylinder to see if that was the problem, Any suggestions?
Its not ment to harden up its a CLUTCH not a brake :niceone: if its hard like your brake you've got problems

[sAsLEX]

Its not ment to harden up its a CLUTCH not a brake :niceone: if its hard like your brake you've got problems

lol I hope this is a troll!

[Max Preload]

...because unlike a brake system, which applies a clamping pressure, the slave piston moves with the lever, operating the clutch pack.

That makes no difference - there's still pressure via the clutch springs and the slave cylinder is static until there's enough air removed for the master cylinder pressure to move it... just like brake calipers.

[imdying]

Did you get this sorted or do you still need help?

[vifferman]

Something that helps is to first loosen the banjo at the slave cylinder end to get the fluid flowing, and remove any bubbles that are between the lever end and the slave cylinder. Then tighten it again and use the bleed nipple on the slave cylinder.

[autos]

methinks your trouble is air bubble in the line my friend, you can can spend all day pumping and 3gallons later still no clutch. the air bubble is always trying to rise back to the master cylinder. option 1; turn the bike upside down and pump (sorry just kidding) option 2 and much better is back bleed the circuit. empty an oil can and fill it with the appropriate clutch fluid and attach to bleed nipple with piece of rubber tubing and slowly and gently pump the fluid through, this will force the bubble back to the reservoir and all will be good, willing to bet my beloved bottle of cold speights on it :niceone:

[sAsLEX]

or leave a bungy cord tight around the lever over night and the bubble might make its way up after being under pressure for a few hours!

[imdying]

empty an oil can and fill it with the appropriate clutch fluidPlease don't do this. If you're going to try the technique, buy a new can. I don't want to have to make you a new clutch hose and find rubber seals to suit the master and slave :lol:

[Max Preload]

Or just fucking well do it properly as has already been posted which requires no special equipment. :angry2:

[imdying]

Or just fucking well do it properly as has already been posted which requires no special equipment. :angry2:I agree with this 100%. Most things will bleed with the correct technique, and I've a few tricks for those that won't, just waiting to hear if he's still having trouble... I keep an 8mm spanner and a bleeder tube in my backpack all the time :yes:

/edit: Yep, still there :D

[robinm]

Had the same issue with one of my GSXR's, bleed and bleed and bleed, no good,The cure- remove the sprocket cover with the slave cylinder attached, clamp the slave cylinder in the full in position with a gee clamp. Bleed it up until you get no more air bubble, it will properly still not feel right, don't panic, pump up the master cylinder and hold the lever in, crack the banjo bolt attaching the hose to the cylinder and retighten it while the lever is still pulled in, you will now have a working clutch, they get a wee air lock at the very top of the hose and this is the only way I have found of removing it, short of buying a $100 minivac that is.

[Max Preload]

If you're going to insist on wasting time detaching the slave cylinder rather than using the correct bleeding methods already described, simply raise it above the master cylinder and bleed the circuit.