View Full Version : Advice needed on the purchase of a CR250
kneescraper
6th January 2008, 11:39
Hey all,
Ive found a local chap thats selling his CR250, he belives it to be a 1996 or 1997. Its seen better days, rip in the seat, exhaust isnt the best condition, stickers are still there but not the best.
Before I go and check it out (waste both mine and his time) what can I be on the look out for engiine wise and are there any known problems with these bikes that I can look out for? He claims its had a rebuild in the past but no service history so he could be pulling my very large (cow like) middle leg.
Is there any markings on the frame that will tell me if its a 97 or 96 etc? I know how to check the common things...frame, chain, sprockets and brakes but I know very little about this bike.
He is willing to take $1500 cash, how ever the bike is around 3/4's of an hour away and I dont wanna be driving backwards and forwards.
Any, any advice would be great.
EnzoYug
6th January 2008, 11:52
Hey all,
Is there any markings on the frame that will tell me if its a 97 or 96 etc? I know how to check the common things...frame, chain, sprockets and brakes but I know very little about this bike.
The serial #
1995 - CB250's have a serial number like this: JH2MC240*TK4xxxxx
1996 - CB250's have a serial number like this: JH2MC240*TK5xxxxx
1997 - CB250's have a serial number like this: JH2MC240*TK6xxxxx
Hope that helps.
kneescraper
6th January 2008, 12:23
Ok thanks, where will the serial number be marked?
Sully60
6th January 2008, 12:40
The number is stamped into the frame along the steering head tube
The differences between a 96 and 97 CR250 are fairly obvious as 97 was the first alloy beam frame model (from memory, first mass produced aluminium beam framed MX bike?)
As this was the first of it's type Honda hadn't perfected the beam frame technology so the chassis was too stiff and resulted in quite a harsh ride from this model ( if you look at the last CR250 the main beams on the frame are alot smaller as by then Honda had the whole tuned flex thing much better sorted.)
The rest of the bike is standard MX fair, usual shit to look for, seized suspension linkages, wheel bearings, spokes etc.
As I remember the engines were ok in terms of power and spread of it etc.
Back in the day the 96 CR250 was considered one of the best 250 engines around in this respect. As I remember there were no specific "these bike do this" kind of problems with these model years.
No matter if it's either year model it's still a relatively old bike (now) so the same rules apply to any 2T MX bike of this age, Don't pay too much and keep a bit aside to keep it fresh. And if it is obviously a dog then leave it at the pound!
kneescraper
6th January 2008, 12:47
Thanks for that, running terms...what am I looking/hearing for while checking it out. Im very much a newbie when it comes to dirt bikes :).
Also how much is it normally (obviously charge out rates differ) for your nomal 2 stroke rebuild? Im only looking at running it on the beach and at the local track so not going to be stressing the bike all that much.
FROSTY
6th January 2008, 12:55
Buy a KDX 200. 2000 should buy ya a good one .and even I can't kill em
kneescraper
6th January 2008, 12:59
Hey Frosty, the only reason I'm looking at this CR is because its local and what I thought was cheap...if I dont buy this one I wont bother looking else where...however the KDX's are nice bikes.
Cheers.
Paulus
6th January 2008, 13:08
With the aluminium frames watch where anything rubs against them for wear. On the 97 where the radiator shrouds cross the frame spars and where the seat base rests on the subframe are two prime places. I bought my 98 when it was 6 months old and it was already showing signs of wear in both those places. Duct tape on the frame (changed regularly) stops it getting any worse. Look really carefully for cracks on the frame and swingarm too!
That motor is pretty tough but could have a lot of miles on it by now. I'd ask to see it with the head off and have a look at the cylinder condtion.
Good luck.
kneescraper
6th January 2008, 15:27
With the aluminium frames watch where anything rubs against them for wear. On the 97 where the radiator shrouds cross the frame spars and where the seat base rests on the subframe are two prime places. I bought my 98 when it was 6 months old and it was already showing signs of wear in both those places. Duct tape on the frame (changed regularly) stops it getting any worse. Look really carefully for cracks on the frame and swingarm too!
That motor is pretty tough but could have a lot of miles on it by now. I'd ask to see it with the head off and have a look at the cylinder condtion.
Good luck.
The head off? I spose I could do that, good advice. Im also concerned about the gearbox, are the gearboxes tough and good for many years of abuse? Also are the parts to repair a blown or worn gearbox easy to find and cheap-ish to buy?
ipod1098
6th January 2008, 17:41
Ring and ask to take it for a ride, ask them not to start or warm it up for you before you get there.Check all the usuals and kick her over..make sure shes cold, it will give you a good idea on compression and sart up procedure.Piston and ring replacement is fk all cost and as long as you keep up with maintenance all will be well! These bikes are fkn kick arse throw you off the back material when running right.. and will give you plenty of grins!! guaranteed! p.s. loosen the fr brake and clutch levers slightly for the crashes, otherwise buy some levers now.. you will need them. Enjoy!
kneescraper
6th January 2008, 18:01
Cheers for that ipod1098, I will beable to test ride it so I will look out for that. I could do a compression test, what reading should I expect for a crap engine and a good engine?
Paulus
6th January 2008, 19:52
The head off? I spose I could do that, good advice. Im also concerned about the gearbox, are the gearboxes tough and good for many years of abuse? Also are the parts to repair a blown or worn gearbox easy to find and cheap-ish to buy?
I've never had any troubles from the gearbox on a CR250 and I've been pretty tough on them. Check it shifts into all gears nicely and doesn't jump out of gear under load. Last I remember from a friends CR500 gearbox rebuild was that the parts were incredibily expensive. If it has a blown gearbox give it a wide berth.
The reason I say to see if you can see it with the head off is that it has a nikasil plated cylinder and after 10 years of use and abuse it could be well worn necessitating replacement or sleeving. Not cheap.
kneescraper
6th January 2008, 20:05
Oh ok, cool as mate. Thanks so much for the help.
xwhatsit
6th January 2008, 21:52
The serial #
1995 - CB250's have a serial number like this: JH2MC240*TK4xxxxx
1996 - CB250's have a serial number like this: JH2MC240*TK5xxxxx
1997 - CB250's have a serial number like this: JH2MC240*TK6xxxxx
Hope that helps.
It's a CR250 -- is that still applicable?
EnzoYug
6th January 2008, 22:26
Hey... so I don't read too good.
The serial numbers I gave were for CB250's the CR250 range is muchly different.
SO.....
'95 CR250 Serial number: JH2ME030*RM6xxxxx
'96 CR250 Serial number: JKH2ME030*SM7xxxxx
'97 CR250 Serial number: JKH2ME030*VM9xxxxx
That'll make more sense when you go check it out!
xwhatsit
6th January 2008, 23:39
O/T: EnzoYug, where are you finding this?
EnzoYug
7th January 2008, 16:31
I'm just fookin awesome.
Got a head for numbers and all....
(ps. google is your friend, but wiki is your lover.... http://www.cyclechaos.com/wiki/Motorcycle_Wiki)
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