SV1000 led indicators???????

[arj127]

Ok so i've bought a undertail that includes led indicators.
Will i need to make any relay adjustments or will the indicators still flash at normal rate seeing as the original front indicators are still on the bike?
Anyone had experience with this?

[paturoa]

Check out http://www.sv-portal.com/ there are several threads on indicators.

[Mattzxr750]

When I replace the indicators on my ZXR they did not flash at the right speed. I replaced the flasher relay with an electronic one (insted of the thermal one that was factory) Now they go at the right speed.

It was as a matter of finding one, then unpluging the old one and pluging in the new one. got it from supercheap.

Just make sure that if you do replace it that you check to see if its 2 or 3 pin

[imdying]

When I replace the indicators on my ZXR they did not flash at the right speed. I replaced the flasher relay with an electronic one (insted of the thermal one that was factory) Now they go at the right speed. Yep, have one on my SV1k, best thing since sliced bread. The factory one has a side stand switch relay in the same housing, so leave that attached. Just pop the two pins that relate to the indicator relay from the socket, and plug them into your 'Electronic non load sensitive flasher relay'. Job done. If it has a fly lead off of it, that's an earth, just secure it to a shiny hole on your subframe.

[Owl]

It was as a matter of finding one, then unpluging the old one and pluging in the new one. got it from supercheap.

Just make sure that if you do replace it that you check to see if its 2 or 3 pin

I had an issue with my aftermaket flasher, so I sort the advice of an auto sparky. He swaped out my cheap 3-pin for a "Tridon HD12" 2-pin flasher and its been working fine for the last 3 months. Cost me $15 and I think the same unit is $25 at Supercheap. Worth a look!!!

[imdying]

Used a Tridon LED04 in mine iirc :yes:

[arj127]

Awesome, thanks for your help guys. I will see if Supercheap have any relays to suit.

[imdying]

If you get stuck, I'll find out which colour the two wires you want to pop out are.

[pzkpfw]

I think I read on the back of a LED-indicator pack that you can also add a resistor (of some wattage and resistance) to the circuit, so that the LED indicators load the stock relay the same way the stock indicators did.

Don't know where you'd get the exact information from, though. (Or how much $).



Added later: OK then - glad I just chickened out and bought indicators with regular bulbs in them! ('Cept I can't see how to open them to replace the bulb... that'll be another thread one day...)

[arj127]

Cheers imdying, i may have to pm you when i am about to fit the undertail, currently coming from the states.

[imdying]

Resistors are shite, avoid. Pain the in arse to fit, and to keep away from anything plastic (they get hot). Electronic non load sensitive flasher relays pwn. Seriously. You can have no indicators fitted at all, and the dash light will still flash the same old speed... they just don't care! No problem with LED ones, cause you don't need the 'flashes fast when a bulb blows' anyway :)

[Mattzxr750]

Resistors are shite, avoid. Pain the in arse to fit, and to keep away from anything plastic (they get hot). Electronic non load sensitive flasher relays pwn. Seriously. You can have no indicators fitted at all, and the dash light will still flash the same old speed... they just don't care! No problem with LED ones, cause you don't need the 'flashes fast when a bulb blows' anyway :)

I tried the resistor way 1st and It was a real pain in the arse.


sensitive flasher relays pwn

2nd that

[vifferman]

No problem with LED ones, cause you don't need the 'flashes fast when a bulb blows' anyway :)
Apart from it being a legal requirement for a WOF:
"The failure of one or more direction-indicator lamps required by this rule to be fitted to a motor vehicle ... must be indicated to the driver by a suitable device."

But if you're getting a WOF done by someone who doesn't check these things carefully, you'll be fine. In any case, I doubt whether it would be picked up unless you happened to have an indicator not working and the tester was a BureaucraticSafetyNazi and happened to notice there was no change in the rate of blinking despite the blown bulb.

[imdying]

I'll eat my electronic flasher relay if you ever have a LED indicator fail and get ticketed for having not having a device to indicate so.

This will be right after I bash you for being the sort of homo that can't talk their way out of such a ticket.

I'm super serial :rofl:

As far as a WOF goes... anyone that goes for a WOF with a light out is obviously some sort of retarded homosexual that shouldn't own a vehicle in any case :yes:

/edit: It worries me how much you north islanders worry about such trivial things as the laws regarding modifying bikes...

[vifferman]

As far as a WOF goes... anyone that goes for a WOF with a light out is obviously some sort of retarded homosexual that shouldn't own a vehicle in any case .
Hello! I R a retartD homo sex you all! :Oops:
Took # 2's car in for a WOF afore Christmas, after the panelbeaters had fitted a new bumper (and fukt a few things): failed because the left driving light didn't work (not connected properly), horn no worky either (airhorn mysteriously cracked and leaking air), and left-hand headlight installed at a slight angle.
D'Oh!

Mind you, not noticing them was because I'm retarded, nothing to do with my sexual preference (as a matter of fact, I prefer goats).

[Sanx]

Resistors are a piece of piss to add, though the caveat about not mounting them on plastic does apply. In general, you'll need one 5 Ohm 25 W resistor per indicator, and you place it in parallel with the indicator, not inline. Resistors available from RS components (part number: 158-503) for the grand sum of about $6 each. If you choose the one I listed above, it comes with a built-in heatsink, so it doesn't get too hot and makes mounting easier.

[imdying]

A piece of piss is to move two wires from one box into another... compared to that, resistors are a pain in the arse.

[davereid]

Resistors are a piece of piss to add, though the caveat about not mounting them on plastic does apply. In general, you'll need one 5 Ohm 25 W resistor per indicator, and you place it in parallel with the indicator, not inline. Resistors available from RS components (part number: 158-503) for the grand sum of about $6 each. If you choose the one I listed above, it comes with a built-in heatsink, so it doesn't get too hot and makes mounting easier.

Yep. Personally I think that its easier to use an electronic relay, but resistors do leave your bikes original electrical system intact.

Calculating the resistor value....

Read the wattage of the bulb you are replacing.
Double it if you are doing front AND rear on the same side and only want to use one resistor, or leave it the same and buy two.

This is the wattage of the resistor you need.

Now you need to calculate the resistance.

resistance required = 200/wattage.

Example :

5 watt indicator, replacing both front & rear so 10 watts.

resistance required = 200/10 = 20 ohms

Example :

25 watt indicator.
So 25 watt resistor required.
200/25 = 8 ohm resistance.

Shit... sounds much easier to get a new relay !

[imdying]

Yep. Personally I think that its easier to use an electronic relay, but resistors do leave your bikes original electrical system intact.Well not really.

You either have to modify the loom to install the resistors, or you have to install them into the wiring for the indicators, which then means chopping the plugs off of the factory indicators (but to be fair, you'll be doing that anyway).

The relay installation is as simple as pushing two pins out of the factory relay socket with a small pin or paper clip, and then pushing them onto the relays prongs, something you can reverse in about 3 minutes, you don't even need to take the body work off. One cable tie, job done.

[Mattzxr750]

The relay installation is as simple as pushing two pins out of the factory relay socket with a small pin or paper clip, and then pushing them onto the relays prongs, something you can reverse in about 3 minutes, you don't even need to take the body work off. One cable tie, job done.

Installing mine was just a matter of unpluging the old one and pluging the new one in

[imdying]

Installing mine was just a matter of unpluging the old one and pluging the new one inYep, on some bikes it's that simple :banana:

On the SV1k however, the side stand switch relay and the indicator relay are built into one, which means you gotta just pop the wee spade lugs outta the right holes, and plug them into the new relay. Still a 3 minute job though :2thumbsup

[imdying]

I apologise for not having double checked the wiring yet, but I'm pretty sure that it's brown and light blue, I'll try to remember to have a look tonight :)

[arj127]

Cheers for that. Will be about a week before i get the undertray

[imdying]

Yes, definitely light blue and brown :yes:

[arj127]

thanks for the tip on wire colours imdying, saved me a bit of time. Had to trim down the terminals on the relay as they are a different size to the suzuki terminals that come out of the existing relay.
Everythings all running good again, but its a pity the relays not a quite one like the suzuki relay.
Cheers.

[imdying]

Ticks does it? Yep, some of the brands do that... of course, it's a 1000cc vtwin, you'll never notice it when the motors running ;)

[arj127]

yip, your right, i'll never hear it over the noise my scorpions put out! Thanks for your help anyways.

[imdying]

Some days I think it'd actually be cool if it ticked loud enough to hear over the bike, I'd be even less likely to leave them on then hahaah