Photography - Track and race day hints and tips req.

[Her_C4]

I have just been and dumped a wad of cash on some pretty cool photographic gear and am keen to get snapping of our locals (and visitors!) at Track and Race Days at Manfeild..... (hows THAT for vicariousness:banana:)

I know from various historical threads that there appears to be a fair few experienced and even professional photographers on this site and wondered if there were any local to Manfeild that might be prepared to trot infield with me and provide some hints and tips (and dummy it down for a beginner :blink:) for getting some good shots.

[Bikernereid]

Here are a few: Good lighting (shadows etc) , framing (there is nothing worse than badly framed pics e.g. lots of sky and bugger all of the bike), shutter speed is probably going to be one of if not the most important issues when photographing. If you are not on the right shutter speed then you will just get crappy blurry pics!!

I would recommend practice practice and more practice. Take a note pad and write down what shutter speed/ settings you are using for each pic (labourious I know) and then you can compare pics and see what is working best!

happy snapping!!


I have just been and dumped a wad of cash on some pretty cool photographic gear and am keen to get snapping of our locals (and visitors!) at Track and Race Days at Manfeild..... (hows THAT for vicariousness:banana:)

I know from various historical threads that there appears to be a fair few experienced and even professional photographers on this site and wondered if there were any local to Manfeild that might be prepared to provide some hints and tips (and dummy it down for a beginner :blink:) for getting some good shots.

[cowpoos]

don't take photos on bikes going in a straight line unless they are wheeling or sliding down the track on their arses...bikes straight up and down are boring pic's...

Learn your camera...and learn to judge the timing of your shots and get right in the middle of it all and close to the track :)

the Pro's will surely be along shortly to give u some real advice... :)

[Kendog]

I have just been and dumped a wad of cash on some pretty cool photographic gear and am keen to get snapping of our locals (and visitors!) at Track and Race Days at Manfeild..... (hows THAT for vicariousness:banana:)

I know from various historical threads that there appears to be a fair few experienced and even professional photographers on this site and wondered if there were any local to Manfeild that might be prepared to trot infield with me and provide some hints and tips (and dummy it down for a beginner :blink:) for getting some good shots.

Last time I took photos at Manfeild I used the preview screen on the camera and zoomed right in to get an idea what the picture quality was like, then adjusted settings till I was happy for that position on the track.

It really is addictive and I almost considered not riding on the track last track day to take photos. Almost.

What camera did you get?


I would recommend practice practice and more practice. Take a note pad and write down what shutter speed/ settings you are using for each pic (labourious I know) and then you can compare pics and see what is working best!

You can see the settings when you load the pics on a PC, so no real need to write them down.

[jumma]

As Bikern1mpho pointed out shutter speed will probably be your best friend for getting your desired results. A fast shutter speed (say over 1/1000th of a second) will help freeze the action and avoid a blurry mess, but you can also get a great result by using a slower shutter spped (1/60th of a second) and panning as the bike goes past. Once you master the timing of this you can keep the bike sharp and have a nice blurry background which gives a good impression of speed.
I do a lot of motorsport photography and use the panning technique a lot on tarmac events because there's no gravel getting thrown around, so often a car can look like it's not moving at all. I guess the good thing about bike pics is if they're nicely cranked over it makes the photo much more interesting than one of a car.

Good luck with it all, call out if there's anymore tips you want :)

[bugjuice]

Take a note pad and write down what shutter speed/ settings you are using for each pic (labourious I know) and then you can compare pics and see what is working best!
no point to this, since all the file information you need is saved on the photo.

follow the bike thru the corner before and after you've pressed the shutter, that way you should get more of the bike in focus and the background may have a nice blur to it, but the point is the bike will have more focus.

For the beginning, I'd leave it in full auto mode (or sport if it has one. This will reset the focus and white balance continuously), snap away, see what works. When you've downloaded the photos, be critical about what you've got. Then the ones you like, look at the photo info, and find out the settings, find out why you like it, and do that again.

yeah, a lot of it is 'practice', but think of it more as playing. That's why I do, and I think you get better shots if you're not concentrating too much, and you're just having fun playing.
Go get a polarizer filter too

[Her_C4]

............

I would recommend practice practice and more practice. Absolutely!! :msn-wink: Like anything really, but a few pointers to get started is always good....


don't take photos on bikes going in a straight line unless they are wheeling or sliding down the track on their arses...bikes straight up and down are boring pic's... Couldn't agree with you more - I have seen enough of those type of pic's, and no doubt I will add to number many many times over, but as time goes on and I learn more and more about what I am doing - I will (hopefully:pinch:) eventually get it 'right' ....:niceone:


Last time I took photos at Manfeild I used the preview screen on the camera and zoomed right in to get an idea what the picture quality was like, then adjusted settings till I was happy for that position on the track.

It really is addictive and I almost considered not riding on the track last track day to take photos. Almost.

What camera did you get?


I laughed over your comment about almost considering not riding .... thats how you know you are on to something!!

Well I would love to be riding, and this is my next best option (hence my comment about living vicariously:niceone:)

The camera is a Canon 40D with a couple of lenses etc thrown in for good measure...


As Bikern1mpho pointed out shutter speed will probably be your best friend for getting your desired results. A fast shutter speed (say over 1/1000th of a second) will help freeze the action and avoid a blurry mess, but you can also get a great result by using a slower shutter spped (1/60th of a second) and panning as the bike goes past. Once you master the timing of this you can keep the bike sharp and have a nice blurry background which gives a good impression of speed.
I do a lot of motorsport photography and use the panning technique a lot on tarmac events because there's no gravel getting thrown around, so often a car can look like it's not moving at all. I guess the good thing about bike pics is if they're nicely cranked over it makes the photo much more interesting than one of a car.

Good luck with it all, call out if there's anymore tips you want :)

OK, now at the moment I am just playing with it (the people going around the local roundabout think I am nuts!!) but the camera is so heavy with the telescopic lens on it that even though it is an IS lens, I have to use the monopod to keep it relatively still. I am having real difficulty panning.. is there a technique that I should be learning here?

How close will I need to be to the track to get a good shot (say coming out of the hairpin or off the sweeper??)

[Her_C4]

:msn-wink:
no point to this, since all the file information you need is saved on the photo.

follow the bike thru the corner before and after you've pressed the shutter, that way you should get more of the bike in focus and the background may have a nice blur to it, but the point is the bike will have more focus.

For the beginning, I'd leave it in full auto mode (or sport if it has one. This will reset the focus and white balance continuously), snap away, see what works. When you've downloaded the photos, be critical about what you've got. Then the ones you like, look at the photo info, and find out the settings, find out why you like it, and do that again.

yeah, a lot of it is 'practice', but think of it more as playing. That's why I do, and I think you get better shots if you're not concentrating too much, and you're just having fun playing.
Go get a polarizer filter too

As I mentioned in the previous thread, I am having difficulty handling the weight but realised after I wrote that, that the ungainly feeling is exacerbated by my inexperience, so will practice following (tracking) vehicles on the roundabout...

Yes it has full auto function in sports mode (and a couple of filters although I haven't used those yet) and I have been playing between both settings and everythign taken so far with manual settings are crap:blank: but at least one of the auto ones is pretty ok. Certainly I can see the difference in the shots after only a couple of days....

My puppy is sick and tired of having his photo taken and runs away now when he sees the camera come out.... :devil2: (so I am utilising the experience and practicing following a moving target.....) ha ha ha

[oldguy]

I take it you brought a digital camera, with at least a 2gig memory card, or even take a spare card, you will also need another battery, Just take heaps of photos, try different settings. don't be afraid to walk around look at things from different angles, watch were the pro's go most cases you can;t get to were they are, unless you have a pass, but you can usually get some good pics from as close as you can to were they are.
Don't just do track action, take some in the pits, teams setting up, riders standing around bullshitting, fans walking around looking at the bikes.
and no photo shoot is complete with out pics of Hot chicks.:2thumbsup

just have fun and take heaps of photo's. :niceone:

[Her_C4]

I take it you brought a digital camera, with at least a 2gig memory card, or even take a spare card, you will also need another battery, Just take heaps of photos, try different settings. don't be afraid to walk around look at things from different angles, watch were the pro's go most cases you can;t get to were they are, unless you have a pass, but you can usually get some good pics from as close as you can to were they are.
Don't just do track action, take some in the pits, teams setting up, riders standing around bullshitting, fans walking around looking at the bikes.
and no photo shoot is complete with out pics of Hot chicks.:2thumbsup

just have fun and take heaps of photo's. :niceone:


Yes, it is a Canon 40D - I bought two spare batteries a 4gig memory card and a 2 gig backup (just in case)......

I will see if Flame and the other chicks will let me take some shots of them, in and or out of leathers but to be honest I was going to follow Lynda Blairs lead and keep an eye on all the hot men in leathers that may need a hand.... ooops I mean that might like their photo taken..... :2thumbsup:chase:

EDIT: Ohhh I could do a write up for the 'day' including photos!!! ha ha ha

[oldguy]

Yes, it is a Canon 40D

Nice, :niceone:

[Kendog]

Nice camera.

Re the panning, make sure you body position allows you to turn freely, feet apart for stability etc. Hold the camera with one hand (right) and the lense as far out as possible with the other, that should help balance the camera.
I also find it helps not to have you face pressed right up against the camera.

I haven't progressed to full manual shooting yet, but have done one track day using AV and TV settings with some pretty good results. Have a look here (http://www.kiwibiker.co.nz/forums/showthread.php?t=57652).
These photos were taken from the infield using around 200mm zoom on the kit lense.

It was getting home and looking at these on the PC that made me question riding vs taking pics on the open track days.

[jimbo600]

I use full manual for track photography as bike headlights can upset the auto settings. The camera also operates quicker when on manual.

I will be happy to accompany you on the infield next time I'm at Manfeild.

The 40D is a great camera and I look forward to seeing your work on the site.

Another tip is only photograph good looking buggers like me.

[Her_C4]

Nice camera.

Re the panning, make sure you body position allows you to turn freely, feet apart for stability etc. Hold the camera with one hand (right) and the lense as far out as possible with the other, that should help balance the camera.
I also find it helps not to have you face pressed right up against the camera.

I haven't progressed to full manual shooting yet, but have done one track day using AV and TV settings with some pretty good results. Have a look here (http://www.kiwibiker.co.nz/forums/showthread.php?t=57652).
These photos were taken from the infield using around 200mm zoom on the kit lense.

It was getting home and looking at these on the PC that made me question riding vs taking pics on the open track days.

Heeey they are pretty damned good! How did you get that shot of flame from that angle? Pit wall?


I use full manual for track photography as bike headlights can upset the auto settings. The camera also operates quicker when on manual.

I will be happy to accompany you on the infield next time I'm at Manfeild.

The 40D is a great camera and I look forward to seeing your work on the site.

Another tip is only photograph good looking buggers like me.

Arrghhh I have been playing with the manual settings all day but to no avail yet. I probably need to learn a lot more about the camera before I will make any progress in that arena. There is heaps to learn and I am really enjoying it (the learning curve).... I have had plenty of :doh: moments already as I realise some basic things I am doing wrong...

I would be most grateful indeed if you gave me some pointers Jimbo, and of course once I get something I can publish on site I will make sure the first one is of you.... :devil2::niceone:

[Number One]

Along with everything everyone else is saying pertaining to shutter speed, 'tracking' the bike and just practising, I have some stuff to add...

Do as many different things as possible. Dirt riding piccies are great fun and the colours and details look really gorg!

Get as close as you can on the inside of corners, people are generally more likely to loose it and go towards the outside of the track. Wear drab clothing and make yourself aware to the riders on the warmup lap or prior to the kickoff...go round the pits like somone else said. That way they'll know you're around and will not notice you when they are in the zone and inspecting track ahead. (know most people are used to seeing camera people and do zone out but less experienced riders could get put off) Just be very aware of not distracting them with movement while maintaining super sharp awareness yourself so you can bolt in the right direction if needed. SAFETY ALWAYS :sunny:

If you are using a huge lense you won't need to get as close but then you have to deal with the weight. You can get a pole for your lense that will still allow you to track objects in frame too.

I peferred to get closer with a lighter lense - photo's just seemed more intimate and exciting a bit more organic and raw I guess (when I got them right that is!):pinch:

At Manfield...take a go at standing on the concrete slab at SPLASH (the infield esses) and shoot the bikes looking down on them (while tracking)...there's an option to lock your focus at the point you want the shot to be taken then track and depress the shutter at the right time to capture it you'll fill the frame and get a great action shot.

CROUCH and get low. You'll be amazed how much this can improve your track piccies. Just that subtle change of perspective can make things look really cool, also slightly tipping the body (skewing the frame) can make even amatuer riders like me look cool and then we will pay you for your print probably!

FINALLY Enjoy! It is a great feeling and it's awesome when people want copies you win and they win :2thumbsup

[Katman]

Ditch the zoom lens and buy a prime lens with as fast an f stop as you can afford. The optics are considerably better. (300mm f4 is still in the realms of affordability.) Prime lenses also make you think a lot more about where you position yourself to shoot from. I have a 400mm f5.6 which I find quite limiting at times with the shutter speed I can use. The extra f stop on a lens is worth more than an extra 100mm in focal length.

[timg]

Don't waste valuable time at the track or wherever practising. Do that on a road handy to where you live. Practice panning on cars as they go by until you have the hang of it and are smooth. Try it from different angles and positions. Change settings until you are familiar with what works and doesnt, particularly shutter speeds and continous auto focus (CAF), I'm not sure what Canon call it. Find a corner or round-a-bout or similar to play around. Try on different days with different weather conditions. Settings on bright sunny summers days will be different to dull overcast days. Practice whan it is not important until it becomes second nature. As it's digital it does not cost anything to practice. Good luck

[Her_C4]

If you are using a huge lense you won't need to get as close but then you have to deal with the weight. You can get a pole for your lense that will still allow you to track objects in frame too.

I peferred to get closer with a lighter lense - photo's just seemed more intimate and exciting a bit more organic and raw I guess (when I got them right that is!):pinch:

Thanks for the tips. :sunny: I have a monopod that I can get reasonably low down with and the lens is a 70-200 (F2.8L IS). I won't be buying any new ones until I can effectively utilise what I already have.



At Manfield...take a go at standing on the concrete slab at SPLASH (the infield esses) and shoot the bikes looking down on them (while tracking)...there's an option to lock your focus at the point you want the shot to be taken then track and depress the shutter at the right time to capture it you'll fill the frame and get a great action shot.



Ahhh is that where they are taken from - makes sense now :Punk: thanks. I will take Jimbo's lead and play around a fair bit... I just want to have a bit of fun.


Ditch the zoom lens and buy a prime lens with as fast an f stop as you can afford. The optics are considerably better. (300mm f4 is still in the realms of affordability.) Prime lenses also make you think a lot more about where you position yourself to shoot from. I have a 400mm f5.6 which I find quite limiting at times with the shutter speed I can use. The extra f stop on a lens is worth more than an extra 100mm in focal length.

Its always difficult knowing what to buy first off and taking in all the advice from all quarters. I am not JUST going photo's at the track so I wanted a camera (and lenses) that would allow me to be as versatile as possible.

As I mentioned earlier the bigger lens that I bought to get started is a EF70-200mm F2.8L IS USM that I thought I would be able to add an extender to at a later date if I felt so inclined (EF1.4X II or 2X). Is this not an option?

[Nasty]

If you want to go onto the track area be aware you will more than likely be asked to sign an indemnity form .... you may also (and will also with Vic Club) be required to provide and wear a fluro vest.

[Kendog]

Heeey they are pretty damned good! How did you get that shot of flame from that angle? Pit wall?

That would have been from the infield. Pretty sure it's is in the esses somewhere.

[Kendog]

As I mentioned earlier the bigger lens that I bought to get started is a EF70-200mm F2.8L IS USM that I thought I would be able to add an extender to at a later date if I felt so inclined (EF1.4X II or 2X). Is this not an option?

Oh yeah!!!!!!, that is pretty much my dream (almost affordable) lens. If I get a more bit serious at it maybe I would look at something like that, for now it really is a part time hobby.

From what I have read you will be able to add an extender to that lens and camera no worries.

[Number One]

If you want to go onto the track area be aware you will more than likely be asked to sign an indemity form .... you may also (and will also with Vic Club) be required to provide and wear a fluro vest.

Good point..forgot that bit and make sure you are there for the riders briefing too - especially if you haven't hung out inside the track much before. You need to know when breaks are, when you can cross the track...speak with the officials etc. AND again ENJOY :woohoo:

[Her_C4]

Oh yeah!!!!!!, that is pretty much my dream (almost affordable) lens. If I get a more bit serious at it maybe I would look at something like that, for now it really is a part time hobby.

From what I have read you will be able to add an extender to that lens and camera no worries.

Yes I know I definitely can add them no worries - I was more responding to Katmans comments, and the question for clarity SHOULD have been - Would I have been better off buying a different lens instead of the proposed option of adding an extender (to get the 300mm f4 option)?

[Her_C4]

Good point..forgot that bit and make sure you are there for the riders briefing too - especially if you haven't hung out inside the track much before. You need to know when breaks are, when you can cross the track...speak with the officials etc. AND again ENJOY :woohoo:

Ummm yeah no worries there I think! :niceone: I haven't been far away from many of the tracks for a couple of years now, and I am ALWAYS there for riders briefing:msn-wink:

[Katman]

As I mentioned earlier the bigger lens that I bought to get started is a EF70-200mm F2.8L IS USM that I thought I would be able to add an extender to at a later date if I felt so inclined (EF1.4X II or 2X). Is this not an option?

Teleconvertors are not all they're cut out to be (in fact I refuse to use them any more - they further reduce the optics of your lens as well as sacrificing stops). As I said, prime lenses have far better optics and even if you're not at the track a prime lens muchs you think so much more about where you shoot from. Zoom lenses make you lazy.

[Kendog]

Yes I know I definitely can add them no worries - I was more responding to Katmans comments, and the question for clarity SHOULD have been - Would I have been better off buying a different lens instead of the proposed option of adding an extender (to get the 300mm f4 option)?

Depends on what you want to use the camera for, I reckon that is why there are so many different lens types to choose from.

A wise man (felix) said to me before I got my camera to use it for a while with the comparatively cheap kit lenses. That way you get to find out what you enjoy and what range you shoot in the most.

I imagine the 70-200 is a better first up buy as it has the zoom flexibility so can be used in different situations. The 300 is probably a bit more specialised and requires you to be in the right spot. But from the shots Jimbo takes the fixed length lenses really are very very good.

[Her_C4]

Teleconvertors are not all they're cut out to be (in fact I refuse to use them any more - they further reduce the optics of your lens as well as sacrificing stops). As I said, prime lenses have far better optics and even if you're not at the track a prime lens muchs you think so much more about where you shoot from. Zoom lenses make you lazy.


Depends on what you want to use the camera for, I reckon that is why there are so many different lens types to choose from.

A wise man (felix) said to me before I got my camera to use it for a while with the comparatively cheap kit lenses. That way you get to find out what you enjoy and what range you shoot in the most.

I imagine the 70-200 is a better first up buy as it has the zoom flexibility so can be used in different situations. The 300 is probably a bit more specialised and requires you to be in the right spot. But from the shots Jimbo takes the fixed length lenses really are very very good.

Yeah ok - thanks for the info guys, I really appreciate it :sunny:. I will stick with what I have for starters and once I can use them ok, then will probably look at a prime lens set up. :yes:

[Katman]

One more tip - if you want to take photography seriously, only show your best work. If you make a habit of showing poor work you will be remembered for it.:msn-wink:

[Her_C4]

One more tip - if you want to take photography seriously, only show your best work. If you make a habit of showing poor work you will be remembered for it.:msn-wink:

VEEERY good point :sunny: I am pretty backward in coming forward though, so it shouldn't be too much of an issue (very aware that as many things in life, 'quantity' does not necessarily equate to 'quality'..):mellow:

[Deano]

I use full manual for track photography as bike headlights can upset the auto settings. The camera also operates quicker when on manual.

I will be happy to accompany you on the infield next time I'm at Manfeild.

The 40D is a great camera and I look forward to seeing your work on the site.

Another tip is only photograph good looking buggers like me.

Ya can't go past Jimbo for great bike pictures. He'll make ya look like a GP star.

[Beemer]

As I mentioned earlier the bigger lens that I bought to get started is a EF70-200mm F2.8L IS USM that I thought I would be able to add an extender to at a later date if I felt so inclined (EF1.4X II or 2X). Is this not an option?

Steer clear of teleconverters, even the so-called good quality ones are crap. I used to cover motorcycling for Kiwi Rider and The Evening Post's Autopost, and car rallying too, and I bought a Nikon one to use on my F5. The quality was hugely affected and it didn't work well with the autofocus either. I had much better success with a 300m lens and a fixed spot, although the 24-120mm lens I bought later was excellent.

Here are some shots I took at Wanganui in 2001. They were shot on film orginally but copied onto a disk later. The panning ones are essential to get a sense of speed and movement in the shots. I like ones looking up the start/finish straight and it's good to get several bikes in the shot as they fight for the lead on the corners too.

The most important thing to do is practice. With digital it's a lot cheaper, but when I was covering the Rally of NZ using film, I would shoot about 22 or more rolls of 36 exposure film. Of those, I would be happy with about 100 photos. Any out of focus were dumped and only the best shots passed on to the drivers. They get offered so many shots from so many people (same with riders) that they are only interested in the best.

[FzerozeroT]

Stand further back and zoom in a bit more, that way you don't get dizzy paning over such a long distance (Learnt the hard way).

Sometimes zooming out a bit further can make it easier to track the bike in the frame, then afterwards you can aways crop the photo a litte to place the bike where you want, with a Ubermegapixel camera you can dump a few pixels and still get a great shot.

don't wait for people to tell you what you are doing wrong! you need to trawl through all the F-stop, apature (Depth of field) and rest of it first so when they do try and help you they can tell you accurately what is going wrong without having to dumb it down.

Wife has got a Nikon D80 with an 18-200 and a 60mm macro, after using that and then going back to my Canon SLR wannabe I feel like why bother with a point and shoot, should have bought a real SLR at the start

[Cynic]

When you try panning things that are moving quite quickly, if you can look through the viewfinder with one eye and keep the other eye on your target,you can zoom in on your target a bit more. It is a we bit easier to follow the movement and you won't get taken by surprise so much when it gets to your pre-focussed point for taking the frame. I know the pic isn't a bike but it was moving quick enough at the time:)

[Fooman]

the lens is a 70-200 (F2.8L IS)

I don't know if anyone has mentioned it, but with any sort of image stabilization system, check that it is the correct mode for panning, if you are going to be doing some shots following the bike. There is normally type 1 stabilization (up/down and left/right) or type 2 (up/down only) - use the later for panning.

Cheers,
FM

[Her_C4]

Thanks heaps for all the helpful responses and tips - really appreciate it :niceone:

Just a point of clarification though for what it is worth:

My sole interest in photography is not motorsports and it was never my intention to get into track photography (or any other kind) for the purpose of spamming of the Kiwibiker site with the fruits of my labour. I have been on and around the tracks for over four years and am aware that riders are very well catered to by a number of experienced and very competent (professional level) photographers already. :niceone:

My intentions (with the caveat that these may change over time :2thumbsup) is that apart from a select one or two riders (or three or four:blink:) and maybe the odd shot taken in the pits - the bulk of the shots will be for my own interest and development.



Steer clear of teleconverters, even the so-called good quality ones are crap. I used to cover motorcycling for Kiwi Rider and The Evening Post's Autopost, and car rallying too, and I bought a Nikon one to use on my F5. The quality was hugely affected and it didn't work well with the autofocus either. I had much better success with a 300m lens and a fixed spot, although the 24-120mm lens I bought later was excellent.

Here are some shots I took at Wanganui in 2001. They were shot on film orginally but copied onto a disk later. The panning ones are essential to get a sense of speed and movement in the shots. I like ones looking up the start/finish straight and it's good to get several bikes in the shot as they fight for the lead on the corners too.

The most important thing to do is practice. With digital it's a lot cheaper, but when I was covering the Rally of NZ using film, I would shoot about 22 or more rolls of 36 exposure film. Of those, I would be happy with about 100 photos. Any out of focus were dumped and only the best shots passed on to the drivers. They get offered so many shots from so many people (same with riders) that they are only interested in the best.

Nice photo's Beemer... I am thinking it will take me some time to get anything of any real quality - but I do intend to get there :banana: eventually!

I am hearing different things about the teleconverters (depending on the original lens quality etc) but I am guessing that those that have used them would know better than a salesperson...:cool:


Stand further back and zoom in a bit more, that way you don't get dizzy paning over such a long distance (Learnt the hard way).

Sometimes zooming out a bit further can make it easier to track the bike in the frame, then afterwards you can aways crop the photo a litte to place the bike where you want, with a Ubermegapixel camera you can dump a few pixels and still get a great shot.

don't wait for people to tell you what you are doing wrong! you need to trawl through all the F-stop, apature (Depth of field) and rest of it first so when they do try and help you they can tell you accurately what is going wrong without having to dumb it down.


Yep - been doing that since I got the camera... I am a 'tactile' learner, and figure out quite a lot by myself first to help me actually identify the sensible questions for the experts.:msn-wink:

I have yet to get into the editing programs although I have had a bit of play... I guess that I was kinda hoping that (eventually) there would be more of the 'right' shots and less of a need to alter / enhance them.


When you try panning things that are moving quite quickly, if you can look through the viewfinder with one eye and keep the other eye on your target,you can zoom in on your target a bit more. It is a we bit easier to follow the movement and you won't get taken by surprise so much when it gets to your pre-focussed point for taking the frame. I know the pic isn't a bike but it was moving quick enough at the time:)

Oooo - now that will take quite a bit of effort given that (as my mother used to say...) "I must be blind in one eye and can't see out the other..." :pinch: ha ha ha

Good point though and I will practice that at the roundabout...:banana:


I don't know if anyone has mentioned it, but with any sort of image stabilization system, check that it is the correct mode for panning, if you are going to be doing some shots following the bike. There is normally type 1 stabilization (up/down and left/right) or type 2 (up/down only) - use the later for panning.

Cheers,
FM

Yes thanks I do indeed have two mode set up, although I understood that Mode 1 was for any situation where a fast shutter setting and/or flash could not be used, and Mode 2 was for panning??

[Fooman]

I understood that Mode 1 was for any situation where a fast shutter setting and/or flash could not be used, and Mode 2 was for panning??

Yup, thats right, mode 1 is image stabilization on full, mode 2 is disabled along the horizontal axis and off is off. Which may be good for bike photos, see about halfway down the following page:

http://photo.net/equipment/canon/70-200

Cheers,
FM

[Her_C4]

Yup, thats right, mode 1 is image stabilization on full, mode 2 is disabled along the horizontal axis and off is off. Which may be good for bike photos, see about halfway down the following page:

http://photo.net/equipment/canon/70-200

Cheers,
FM

Great link - thanks heaps. :niceone::msn-wink:

I am keen to read anything I can get my hand on at the moment, and generalised searches (when you are not sure exactly what you are looking for) can be a tedious timewaster.

[jimbo600]

I think converters get bad press sometimes. Sure they suck up heaps of light and can only be used when there's plenty available but I accept the loss of sharpness. Sometimes its all you have to pull the image in. Below is an Eagle I photographed (I was going to say shot, but folk would get the wrong idea) in Germany. Had a Canon 600mm with a 1.4x converter on. Its sharp enough to make a nice 30" high print.

[Her_C4]

I think converters get bad press sometimes. Sure they suck up heaps of light and can only be used when there's plenty available but I accept the loss of sharpness. Sometimes its all you have to pull the image in. Below is an Eagle I photographed (I was going to say shot, but folk would get the wrong idea) in Germany. Had a Canon 600mm with a 1.4x converter on. Its sharp enough to make a nice 30" high print.

Yes I have been talking to a number of different people and everyone seems to have some quite diverse opinions on the teleconverters. At the end of the day I guess like everything, it comes down to personal choice and if you choose to use one then you accept that you will experience some degradation in the overall quality of the result.

Luckily, I don't need to worry about that juuuuuust yet - learning a smidgeon of what the camera is capable of and upskilling the user to facilitate even ONE reasonable shot with all this fantastic gear is my priority right now :sunny:

[jimbo600]

Well if you want to meet up one Sunday and practice photographing dudes on bikes or anything let me know.

Also dprevew www.dpreview.com is a very good site for all things digital photography. Has some great tutorials etc.

[Her_C4]

Well if you want to meet up one Sunday and practice photographing dudes on bikes or anything let me know.

Also dprevew www.dpreview.com is a very good site for all things digital photography. Has some great tutorials etc.

That would be FANtastic Jimbo - thank you so much ... I will send PM :sunny: :sunny: :first:

[Kendog]

Well if you want to meet up one Sunday and practice photographing dudes on bikes or anything let me know.

Also dprevew www.dpreview.com is a very good site for all things digital photography. Has some great tutorials etc.


That would be FANtastic Jimbo - thank you so much ... I will send PM :sunny: :sunny: :first:

I would be keen to come along to this, if that's ok.

[Beemer]

I think converters get bad press sometimes. Sure they suck up heaps of light and can only be used when there's plenty available but I accept the loss of sharpness. Sometimes its all you have to pull the image in. Below is an Eagle I photographed (I was going to say shot, but folk would get the wrong idea) in Germany. Had a Canon 600mm with a 1.4x converter on. Its sharp enough to make a nice 30" high print.

Fantastic shot. What you say is true - in reasonable light conditions they can produce acceptable shots and yours is proof of that. A lot of my work was done during rallies and they are often in fairly dark forests, etc so the teleconverter was pretty crap for that. If you have a good quality lens with a wide aperture, they can be useful.

As for panning - trust me, when I first started out, I had heaps of shots with the back or front end of a car in them rather than the whole vehicle! It does take practice and I can still stuff it up at times. One thing you have to work on is keeping the horizon level. Most people tend to lift the camera as they pan and it looks like the road is on a hill in the resulting photos.

[skelstar]

One thing you have to work on is keeping the horizon level.
Yeah I found the same thing. Think it helps to keep your non-viewfinder eye open.

Sitting on the inside of the sweeper, or turn one were great places to do the panning shots from at Manfeild.

[Number One]

I think converters get bad press sometimes. Sure they suck up heaps of light and can only be used when there's plenty available but I accept the loss of sharpness. Sometimes its all you have to pull the image in. Below is an Eagle I photographed (I was going to say shot, but folk would get the wrong idea) in Germany. Had a Canon 600mm with a 1.4x converter on. Its sharp enough to make a nice 30" high print.

Seriously though - fab pic! Just stunning and gets better when you blow it up and can see the sharp details. Fine specimen of bird and photographic skill.

[Big Dave]

Do a search for my previously posted tips.

I also offer professional tuition on operating the camera and computer image manipulation - beginner to expert level.

[Her_C4]

Do a search for my previously posted tips.

I also offer professional tuition on operating the camera and computer image manipulation - beginner to expert level.

Thanks BD - found some time ago and reviewed several times since... a vertiable fount of really good information from an expert.. and I have pointed several others that way too:2thumbsup

You live in Aucks?:crazy::(

I have had some tuition in photo editing - minimal but enough to get me started.

[Big Dave]

Thanks BD - found some time ago and reviewed several times since... a vertiable fount of really good information from an expert.. and I have pointed several others that way too:2thumbsup

You live in Aucks?:crazy::(

I have had some tuition in photo editing - minimal but enough to get me started.

The tyranny of distance.

Yeah - I was sort of making a more general announcement about it too.

Helped a few people out lately and think I'll incorporate it into mah creative services business.

[discotex]

Yes I have been talking to a number of different people and everyone seems to have some quite diverse opinions on the teleconverters. At the end of the day I guess like everything, it comes down to personal choice and if you choose to use one then you accept that you will experience some degradation in the overall quality of the result.

Luckily, I don't need to worry about that juuuuuust yet - learning a smidgeon of what the camera is capable of and upskilling the user to facilitate even ONE reasonable shot with all this fantastic gear is my priority right now :sunny:

Yep.. Lenses are like tyres. A compromise between price, practicality and image quality (instead of grip).

A f/2.8 70-200 is like a top line sport tourer that can handle a wide range of situations. Prime lenses are somewhat like race tyres and unless you know you need it steer clear of them unless you want slicks in the rain.

The only prime I'd recommend is a 35mm for candid shots (which will be closish to a 50mm after the 1.6x crop factor). Even then I'd say stick with the kit lens (if you didn't just get body only) until your photography skills exceed the lens quality. Why get the slicks when your riding is GN250 level?

It's a pretty impressive setup you've got there. It'd be easy to get lost with all the features. Start with the basics. At the end of the day it's about composition, aperture and shutter speed. That's it. Nothing more to it :)

Forget manual mode until you understand how shutter speed and aperture affect the image. Metering a scene takes a while to get the hang of and the camera can do it better than most more of the time. You won't have time to think about the light when a gixxer comes screaming down to the hairpin.

For fast moving action in changing light I'd say go to Tv mode. Concentrate on picking shutter speeds that blur or sharpen the background (experiment between 250-2000).

For pit/candit stuff I'd suggest learning to use depth of field in Av mode.

[Her_C4]

The tyranny of distance.

Yeah - I was sort of making a more general announcement about it too.

Helped a few people out lately and think I'll incorporate it into mah creative services business.

Excellent BD - there are heaps of starters / idiots and amateurs :msn-wink: all looking for some really good advice. No point in getting a good set up if you are not prepared to get the best advice!!! :doh:

Best of luck with your initiative :niceone:


Yep.. Lenses are like tyres. A compromise between price, practicality and image quality (instead of grip).

A f/2.8 70-200 is like a top line sport tourer that can handle a wide range of situations. Prime lenses are somewhat like race tyres and unless you know you need it steer clear of them unless you want slicks in the rain.

The only prime I'd recommend is a 35mm for candid shots (which will be closish to a 50mm after the 1.6x crop factor). Even then I'd say stick with the kit lens (if you didn't just get body only) until your photography skills exceed the lens quality. Why get the slicks when your riding is GN250 level?

It's a pretty impressive setup you've got there. It'd be easy to get lost with all the features. Start with the basics. At the end of the day it's about composition, aperture and shutter speed. That's it. Nothing more to it :)

Forget manual mode until you understand how shutter speed and aperture affect the image. Metering a scene takes a while to get the hang of and the camera can do it better than most more of the time. You won't have time to think about the light when a gixxer comes screaming down to the hairpin.

For fast moving action in changing light I'd say go to Tv mode. Concentrate on picking shutter speeds that blur or sharpen the background (experiment between 250-2000).

For pit/candit stuff I'd suggest learning to use depth of field in Av mode.

Thanks!!! Great advice and excellent analogies - I love it :eek:

As mentioned in one of my earlier posts, I will be following your advice and not looking too far out (prime lens, manual set ups etc) until I have a reasonable grasp of the basics.

PS the other lenses that I have are:

EF17-85 IS
and
EF 50mm F2.5 macro

Have to say, this (already) is the most fun I have had off my bike for ages :eek::eek::laugh::laugh::niceone:

[Finn]

don't take photos on bikes going in a straight line unless they are wheeling or sliding down the track on their arses...bikes straight up and down are boring pic's...

Learn your camera...and learn to judge the timing of your shots and get right in the middle of it all and close to the track :)

the Pro's will surely be along shortly to give u some real advice... :)

Poos, you cant even work a garage opener so why are you giving photography lessons?

[discotex]

Thanks!!! Great advice and excellent analogies - I love it :eek:

Couldn't think of any better way to relate to another biker than through bike terms :)



As mentioned in one of my earlier posts, I will be following your advice and not looking too far out (prime lens, manual set ups etc) until I have a reasonable grasp of the basics.

PS the other lenses that I have are:

EF17-85 IS
and
EF 50mm F2.5 macro

Have to say, this (already) is the most fun I have had off my bike for ages :eek::eek::laugh::laugh::niceone:

That's about perfect for every situation bar shooting lions in Africa or doing serious portrait work (really need a f/1.8 or better lens for that).

Bikes, cameras, music are what I love so I know exactly how much fun you're going to be having :) Just wish I had a digital body. Maybe when the 450D comes out... If only I hadn't spent all my play $$ on a new bike :lol:

[FROSTY]

something noone else has touched on and probably you know better . Stay safe.
Wear a fluro vest and work out bike trajectories.
The photographer that got hurt at the v8's this year wasn't staying safe

[Finn]

something noone else has touched on and probably you know better . Stay safe.
Wear a fluro vest and work out bike trajectories.
The photographer that got hurt at the v8's this year wasn't staying safe

Where's that setting on the camera?

[Her_C4]

That's about perfect for every situation bar shooting lions in Africa or doing serious portrait work (really need a f/1.8 or better lens for that).



DAMN IT!!! I knew there was something else that I needed... he he he :msn-wink:


... and probably you know better . ...
Wear a fluro vest and work out bike trajectories.



Yep you are on to it Frosty - having had the fright of my life a couple of times whilst I have been out riding / racing on the track myself (seeing someone moving towards the track out of the corner of my eye whilst intent on hugging the exit lines - I nearly highsided), I understand very well how disconcerting and potentially dangerous it can be to all parties.

In preparation, I have already got my flouro vest... yuuuuuuummm :( NOT!!! :cool:

[enigma51]

If you struggle with the weightt buy a monopod they are great for action photos

[Her_C4]

If you struggle with the weightt buy a monopod they are great for action photos

Yes I do ... and yes I bought one when I bought the camera. Fantastic to use, although it takes me a while to get the balance right. I figure that is just lack of practice.:niceone:

[enigma51]

Yes I do ... and yes I bought one when I bought the camera. Fantastic to use, although it takes me a while to get the balance right. I figure that is just lack of practice.:niceone:

Once you get them sorted out they are great but they can also get in the way if you move alot from place to place

[jimbo600]

I would be keen to come along to this, if that's ok.

Sure mate, but I hope you"ll be there giving advice as your photography is pretty well up there fellah

[Kendog]

Sure mate, but I hope you"ll be there giving advice as your photography is pretty well up there fellah

Happy to give any advice I can, but always willing to learn from others.

[Zapf]

ermm... camera porn