Virago 250. Softening suspension?

[sunhuntin]

while carrying my pillion the other night, i noticed some rather hard bumps which tells me my suspension is set too hard. how do i go about making it not so hard? it didnt affect me much, but i bet it wasnt much fun for her, lol.
:doh:

[JimO]

probably to soft and bottoming out

[Daffyd]

I would have thought that if it only happens when pillioning that your settings are too soft and bottoming out.

[crashe]

while carrying my pillion the other night, i noticed some rather hard bumps which tells me my suspension is set too hard. how do i go about making it not so hard? it didnt affect me much, but i bet it wasnt much fun for her, lol.
:doh:

look at the very bottom of your shocks..... you will see that there are different levels to set them at......

You can whip it into the shop to get them changed..... if you cant do it yourself...
It will take 30 seconds to change the settings.......

You have them set for just your weight on the bike......
When you carry a pillion you have to reset them...... especially if you are going for a decent ride...

A short ride up the road and back..... I wouldnt worry......

[sunhuntin]

ok, so they are too soft then. really only noticed it going over driveways and road humps that i couldnt see to avoid [i hate riding at night where theres no street lights!]

it wasnt too much of a ride, but id like things to be comfortable for the pillion, even just for short trips.

[crashe]

In your tool kit you should have a tool to adjust the shocks settings...

You just need to move them up for a pillion depending on how you have them set at the moment...

Ask the shop to show you how to do it..... for future pillions going on the back of your bike

[sunhuntin]

thanks crashe... knew i could count on you. she reckons it was fine, but she was also a tad drunk at the time. i know i noticed, lol.

i have a few things to do tomorrow, so i might drop in on friday morning and see if the boys have time.

[xwhatsit]

You're supposed to bump the preload up a bit when carrying pillions or heavy loads, right? Helps with the bottoming out?

Might've got this backwards, suspension confuses the bejesus out of me.

What I do know is that your shocks will likely only have preload adjustment on them, which probably won't make a hell of a lot of difference. If you're going to be carrying pillions regularly and it bothers you, some better shocks would be in order. Was scouring Ikon's (Koni's) catalogue the other day and I swear I saw Virago (although there's heaps of different models). Would be a shitload better than shagged-out OEM shocks. Expensive, though.

[crashe]

thanks crashe... knew i could count on you. she reckons it was fine, but she was also a tad drunk at the time. i know i noticed, lol.

i have a few things to do tomorrow, so i might drop in on friday morning and see if the boys have time.

No worries......

Just remember to reset them back after your pillion gets off....
Tis also handy to adjust them if you are carry a heavy load when travelling as well..... to save it from 'bottoming out'

[sunhuntin]

forgive the blonde question, but why is it important to reset it?

[crashe]

forgive the blonde question, but why is it important to reset it?


To put it back to how you normally have it just for you when riding the bike..... after dropping off your pillion...... Or do it the next morning......


You will feel the difference, when it is set harder than what you are normally used to......

[Bass]

You will feel the difference, when it is set harder than what you are normally used to......

Sorry but you won't. Raising the preload does not stiffen the springs - only changing the springs can do that.
It simply changes the ride height.
When the pillion gets on, the springs compress more than for a solo load and as observed the shocks can bottom out. Increasing the preload just raises the bike up a bit so the shocks won't bottom out.
When the pillion gets off, the bike stands a bit taller and the preload is reduced to get back to normal ride height.
But riding solo with pillion preload on, does NOT make the ride any harsher, (except in the one case I have seen where the preload was so high that the shocks were Topping out).

However, if you had said "when it is set HIGHER than what you are normally used to" I would agree with every word.

Pedantic??

Probably, but also the first step to understanding how suspension works.

[jrandom]

The thing that I find most amazing is that someone would put a pillion on a Virago 250 in anything but the gravest extreme of transport emergencies!

:confused:

Did it manage to reach 100kph on the flat under such loading?

Poor little thing.

I doubt that any twiddling of preload will eliminate the issue of a motorcycle carrying probably more than twice the weight it was designed to. You really need stiffer springs.

...

Actually, you really need a proper bike.

[vifferman]

Good try, but no cigar.
It doesn't change the ride height - only a shock with ride height adjustment via a threaded eye at one end can do that. It does change the sag, which is how much the spring compresses due to the weight of the bike or bike plus rider.
What it does is partially compress the spring via a rotating collar, either on a threaded shaft, or via a series of bumps on the collar. So now the spring is effectively shorter, and when the bike goes over a bump, the movement of the wheel has to exert more force to compress the spring. The spring's not any stiffer, but now acting in a region of compression that it would normally take a bigger bump (or more load) for it to be acting in.

Eventually, you get to a load or bump that will completely bottom out the spring, regardless of preload. If this happens frequently, the spring is too soft for the application.

[Bass]

Good try, but no cigar.
It doesn't change the ride height - only a shock with ride height adjustment via a threaded eye at one end can do that. It does change the sag, which is how much the spring compresses due to the weight of the bike or bike plus rider.
What it does is partially compress the spring via a rotating collar, either on a threaded shaft, or via a series of bumps on the collar. So now the spring is effectively shorter, and when the bike goes over a bump, the movement of the wheel has to exert more force to compress the spring. The spring's not any stiffer, but now acting in a region of compression that it would normally take a bigger bump (or more load) for it to be acting in. This is the flaw in your logic
Eventually, you get to a load or bump that will completely bottom out the spring, regardless of preload. If this happens frequently, the spring is too soft for the application.

Sorry but mostly bollix
The preload usually cannot compress the spring because the other end is attached to the swingarm which is free to move. You crank one end in - the other moves out.
What you have expressed is the commonest misconception I have encountered. Yes it changes the static sag but that is only because the static sag is measured with the shock fully extended and so the preload can compress the spring at that one point only. So while it adjusts the amount that the spring compresses due to imposed weight, it is at that one point in the shock extension only.
How to illustrate this? Let's assume for the moment that your bike DOES NOT have a rising rate linkage on the back (unusual these days but humour me for the sake of argument)
1. adjust preload to desired value
2. add static load (bags) until shock just starts to compress.
3. add rider and measure shock compression
4. remove rider and add more static weight so that shock is significantly compressed
5. repeat 3. above
6. do the whole thing again several times with different preload settings
You will find that adding the rider produces the same amount of EXTRA compression regardless of static loads or preload for that matter. i.e. the EXTRA compression due to rider weight is unaffected by preload. This of necessity, also means that a given bump will produce the same deflection regardless of other adjustments.

As stated the practical effect is to adjust the ride height. It does not and cannot stiffen or soften the spring - on this we agree - and so of necessity, it cannot change the length of the spring for a given load (Hookes Law)

Some after market shocks and some OME ones too, have a separate length adjustment to match the shock to the bike geometry so that the shock sweeps through the correct operating range as the rear wheel does likewise. It should only be necessary to set it once. After that has been done, the primary ride height adjustment is the preload (for Joe Average)

[bungbung]

Sorry but mostly bollix
The preload usually cannot compress the spring because the other end is attached to the swingarm which is free to move. You crank one end in - the other moves out.

Look at the picture, if you increase the preload, the spring is shortened.

[jrandom]

blah blah blah

Seriously, man, what the fuck are you on about? I think that was the least meaningful post on how suspension works that I've read on KB.

Preload is when you have an adjustable collar around the top of a shock absorber's spring that can be wound down to pre-compress it.

It's there to adjust how much the bike squats down toward the ground when you sit on it.

This works because the length of a spring (and the height of your suspension) depends on how much weight is effectively sitting on it. Put 100kg on a particular spring and it will squash down a particular amount.

So if you build a shock absorber with a screw-adjusted collar that can take up some of the usual uncompressed length of the spring, you can adjust the amount of weight that can be sat on top of that shock absorber before it starts to compress.

Shall I draw some pictures with words?

SPRING
SPRING
SPRING
SPRING
SPRING
SPRING

Here's our spring. It's 6 lines of text high. Nobody's sitting on the bike.

Now I sit on the bike:

MY FAT ARSE
COMPRESSED SPRING
COMPRESSED SPRING
COMPRESSED SPRING
COMPRESSED SPRING
COMPRESSED SPRING

I have compressed the spring, and my fat arse is riding 5 lines of text above the ground. I do not like this. My fat arse drags in corners, so I reconfigure my shock absorber to look like this:

RIGID COLLAR
COMPRESSED SPRING
COMPRESSED SPRING
COMPRESSED SPRING
COMPRESSED SPRING
COMPRESSED SPRING

Now, when I sit upon the motorcycle, it looks like this:

MY FAT ARSE
RIGID COLLAR
COMPRESSED SPRING
COMPRESSED SPRING
COMPRESSED SPRING
COMPRESSED SPRING
COMPRESSED SPRING

Et voila, my fat arse is now 6 lines of text above the ground, and no longer drags in corners.

I am pre loading the spring with a length of rigid collar equal to the amount that it was sagging by when I sat upon it.

[Bass]

Look at the picture, if you increase the preload, the spring is shortened.
But ONLY with the shock fully extended. It's tricky to see. Basically what adjusting the preload does is to move the starting point around.

Hookes law states that the spring compression is proportional to the load. So for a given load the spring length is determined. Normally the load is taken on the swing arm but with the shock fully extended it is taken internally by the shock.
All it does is change the load required to START the shock moving. Once the shock is moving, the load determines the spring length and so the preload determines the ride height.

[Bass]

Et voila, my fat arse is now 6 lines of text above the ground, and no longer drags in corners.

I am pre loading the spring with a length of rigid collar equal to the amount that it was sagging by when I sat upon it.

Precisely
You have increased your ride height back to where it needs to be, which is what I have been saying all along.
Its bump response i.e. the firmness of the ride is unchanged because our standard bump will produce the same deflection regardless of how fat your arse is.
Whistle up Robert taylor if you don't believe me.

I'll ignore the insulting shit for now.

[vifferman]

I'll ignore the insulting shit for now.
Have you started ignoring it yet, or can I get a shot or two in first? :confused:

[jrandom]

I'll ignore the insulting shit for now.

Just to be clear, what I was insulting was your ability to convey information meaningfully. I read your post, scratched my head, and thought, "huh"?

I have no doubt that you have a perfectly accurate understanding of how shock absorbers work, but I do hope you don't work as any sort of teacher...

[Bass]

Have you started ignoring it yet, or can I get a shot or two in first? :confused:

Be my guest - go for it!

[jrandom]

PIts bump response i.e. the firmness of the ride is unchanged because our standard bump will produce the same deflection regardless of how fat your arse is.

That is absolutely, one hundred percent correct.

As I said, I was not implying that anything you said was wrong; just that it was incoherent.

[Bass]

Just to be clear, what I was insulting was your ability to convey information meaningfully. I read your post, scratched my head, and thought, "huh"?

I have no doubt that you have a perfectly accurate understanding of how shock absorbers work, but I do hope you don't work as any sort of teacher...


Ok 10 out of 10 on that one

[NZsarge]

:corn:.........:corn:

[Bass]

Just to be clear, what I was insulting was your ability to convey information meaningfully. I read your post, scratched my head, and thought, "huh"?

I have no doubt that you have a perfectly accurate understanding of how shock absorbers work, but I do hope you don't work as any sort of teacher...

Actually, I certainly don't claim it to be perfectly accurate - that's a whole specialist field in itself, but I get by

[Bass]

That is absolutely, one hundred percent correct.

As I said, I was not implying that anything you said was wrong; just that it was incoherent.

Actually, these days, it's probably not correct because it assumes that you don't have a rising rate linkage

[Bass]

OK - despite your emphatic (and arrogant sounding) rebuttal, I *do* actually understand how shocks work, what preload does, etc.
I just took issue with your assertion that preload alters ride height, although your subsequent modification to make it effective ride height is better.

I humbly apologise for any apparent arrogance, but I still stand by my assertion that the primary effect - indeed the only real effect is to change the ride height

[tri boy]

I'm with you on this Sarge:corn::apint:. Please stay out of this one for a while Robert:laugh:

[jrandom]

... it assumes that you don't have a rising rate linkage

I'm not familiar with products in the market (I probably know less than you do, for that matter) but I would have assumed that any motorcycle with a rising rate linkage would have it designed to operate linearly in the range of travel affected by the suspension's available preload adjustment.

For what it's worth, correct me if I'm wrong, but as far as I can see (just thinking about it now, off the cuff) the effect of a rising rate linkage could be achieved with an appropriate progressive spring.

I assume that design engineers go for rising rate linkages because it's cheaper than speccing progressive springs, and allows a finer-grained control over the latter stages of the suspension travel.

Am I missing anything?

[Bass]

Am I missing anything?
Sort of. As my limited understanding would have it, you are correct up to a point. However the rising rate linkage affects both the spring compression rate as well as the damper compression rate but a variably wound spring affects the springing only. That's why you usually see linear springs on the back but compounds in the forks. Having the damping rate increase as the suspension compresses is a good idea but you can't put a rising rate link in the forks

[Bass]

In fact, no.
The primary effect - and indeed the most important effect - on your average crappy OEM suspension, is to make the owner feel some small measure of satisfaction that they have improved their suspension by tweaking the preload adjuster doohickey. And this, of course, will make their motorbicycle go faster.

Satanic adjustments now?

[Bass]

Of course.
That's why it goes "Doink!" when you tweak it. And frequently traps and pinches any piece of skin that strays too close.

Sounds like you once owned an RF too

[jrandom]

The primary effect - and indeed the most important effect - on your average crappy OEM suspension, is to make the owner feel some small measure of satisfaction that they have improved their suspension by tweaking the preload adjuster doohickey. And this, of course, will make their motorbicycle go faster.

:laugh:

It's funny because it's true.

Actually, ideally, one would want to minimise applied preload, because one would want to have as much upwards movement available as possible in the suspension, to avoid it topping out - suspension needs to be able to move downwards into ruts as well as upwards over bumps.

Having a whole chunk of one's suspension's travel taken up with a rigid collar instead of being available for the spring to extend upwards into (and for the wheel to therefore stretch downwards from) is not really a good thing.

A bike should always sag down a certain amount when the rider sits on it. If it doesn't sag down enough, you can guarantee that the wheels are going to lose traction in certain types of lumpy surface conditions. They'll 'want' to push downwards onto the road, but will be effectively held up in the air by the permanently-compressed spring.

Preload is only there because most riders can't afford and/or can't be arsed to fit springs to their suspension that are precisely right for their weight.

[Bass]

I'm with you on this Sarge:corn::apint:. Please stay out of this one for a while Robert:laugh:

I'll ignore you too. Go and wash your scrambler in some ford

[crashe]

Just in case you lads aren't aware....... but then you may know this already....
But the Virago 250 has 2 rear shocks....... one on each side of the wheel......

While a sportbike has one....


Ok as you all were..........

[tri boy]

It's ok, I thought there was gunna be a :girlfight:, but you boys kissed and made up.
No point sticking around now.:chase:

[Bass]

:laugh:

It's funny because it's true.

Actually, ideally, one would want to minimise applied preload, because one would want to have as much upwards movement available as possible in the suspension, to avoid it topping out - suspension needs to be able to move downwards into ruts as well as upwards over bumps.

Having a whole chunk of one's suspension's travel taken up with a rigid collar instead of being available for the spring to extend upwards into (and for the wheel to therefore stretch downwards from) is not really a good thing.

A bike should always sag down a certain amount when the rider sits on it. If it doesn't sag down enough, you can guarantee that the wheels are going to lose traction in certain types of lumpy surface conditions. They'll 'want' to push downwards onto the road, but will be effectively held up in the air by the permanently-compressed spring.

Preload is only there because most riders can't afford and/or can't be arsed to fit springs to their suspension that are precisely right for their weight.

Ummm..... some good some bad. On a properly designed suspension the preload does not affect the available suspension travel, it's the shock length that does that. And since we have got all amicable, I should come clean and say that a great deal of what I wrote is bullshit. I said that leaving the preload set for pillion loads while riding solo will not affect the ride compliance. If you have a rising rate linkage that's crap
With a RRL the damping rate changes with shock extension. It increases as the shock compresses so conversely it decreases as the shock extends. So leaving your preload wound up with solo loads is likely to SOFTEN the ride if your rear end is RRL

Any guesses on how long before this gets whipped off to another thread.

[sunhuntin]

well that was somewhat amusing... for the record: we stayed in 50/70k zones as i HATE riding where theres no street lights. i have a 500, but am not confident on that riding solo, never mind adding another 95kg to control. the 250 took us both perfectly, except for the bottoming out.

i do recall my mate adjusting the ginny suspension simply by twisting the spring [i think?]

so, i can adjust the suspension so it wont bottom out, and then just leave it once the pillion is off?

[crashe]

so, i can adjust the suspension so it wont bottom out, and then just leave it once the pillion is off?

yep .

[FilthyLuka]

Sorry but you won't. Raising the preload does not stiffen the springs - only changing the springs can do that.
It simply changes the ride height.

Eh? By clicking the preload up, you are effectively compressing the springs. The more the springs are compressed, the more force that is is taken to compress them even more.

If you have low preload, you push the back end down with your hand (not really, just an example) cause the spring isn't preloaded (see where they get the name?), therefore it requires little force to push down.

wind the preload up to balls, and it takes a metric arse ton of force to compress the springs even more, as the springs are more preloaded.

I think you may have confused two things my friend. When you dial in preload, the distance between the eyes of each individual shock (virago's a dual shock, init?) stays the same.

To lower the ride height you throw in a different (longer/shorter) spring ;)

savvy?

[FilthyLuka]

Ummm..... some good some bad. On a properly designed suspension the preload does not affect the available suspension travel, it's the shock length that does that.

Didn't you say preload alters ride height? If the ride height is altered then you loose/gain travel...

[Disco Dan]

When was the last time you replaced your fork oil?

I have found that to be the biggest improvement in suspension on all the bikes I have owned... replace the fork oil.

Then with FRESH oil, adjust your shocks to suit. That way when things get bumpy again you need to change your oil again!

"superbike" magazine did a very good explanation of suspension settings - blew away a lot of the myths and offer advice on how to set things up right.

not a lot of point spending heaps of $$$ on prof set up unless your doing track days every other weekend... or own a sportsbike ;)

[Bass]

Eh? By clicking the preload up, you are effectively compressing the springs. The more the springs are compressed, the more force that is is taken to compress them even more.

If you have low preload, you push the back end down with your hand (not really, just an example) cause the spring isn't preloaded (see where they get the name?), therefore it requires little force to push down.

wind the preload up to balls, and it takes a metric arse ton of force to compress the springs even more, as the springs are more preloaded.

I think you may have confused two things my friend. When you dial in preload, the distance between the eyes of each individual shock (virago's a dual shock, init?) stays the same.

To lower the ride height you throw in a different (longer/shorter) spring ;)

savvy?

Oh God, here we go again.
Sorry mate but it's just not so.
The virago is actually a good example to use because the rear suspension has what is essentially a constant rate linkage, so we can ignore the complications of all the goodies that a modern sports machine has. Get your tape measure out and you will find that the top shock mount, the bottom shock mount and the swing arm pivot are at the corners of an isosceles triangle. Any other arrangement results in a falling rate linkage which (trust me on this) is a really bad idea.
So it's a simple arrangement and good to use for this example.

Let's put Crashe on her bike so that the shock is somewhere in the middle of its travel range. Let's also imagine for a moment that Crashe is an expert gymnast and can sit there indefinitely balancing the bike with her feet off the ground.
Now we have an equilibrium situation where all the forces are in balance with the weight of Crashe and the bike being taken by the springs. They will compress a certain amount in order to do this.

The next part of this is absolutely key to understanding.
The compression and so the length of the springs can only be changed by changing the load on them, which in this case means changing the load on the bike. We have to add another Crashe or get her to lose some weight to do so. If we don't change the load on the bike, the spring length will remain the same whatever other adjustment we make.
I repeat, that part is the key.

If you don't believe me on this one, go out and try it. It's not hard to do.

Now, with Crashe still carefully balancing her bike, let's start increasing the preload (damned misnomer that is), which basically means that we push the top of the springs down further. Remember we have not increased the total mass that the springs have to carry so their length stays the same.
So what happens?
Well, very simply, the bottom end of the spring moves down the same amount as we pushed the top end down, the shock extends a bit, the swing arm moves down and Voila, the ride height is increased.

I have been accused of being incoherent and I probably was, but I can't think of a simpler way than that, to explain it.

As for preload affecting suspension travel, unless the spring is very badly matched to the load so that it becomes coil-bound under full compression, preload should have no effect on the TOTAL available suspension travel. The only thing that affects TOTAL suspension travel is the shock travel length. Increasing the preload gives more compression length available, but at the expense of extension length. Conversely reducing the preload means that you leave less travel for compression, but more travel for extension.

I really hope that this is a better explanation and clarifies the whole picture.

[Bass]

When was the last time you replaced your fork oil?

I have found that to be the biggest improvement in suspension on all the bikes I have owned... replace the fork oil.

Then with FRESH oil, adjust your shocks to suit. That way when things get bumpy again you need to change your oil again!

"superbike" magazine did a very good explanation of suspension settings - blew away a lot of the myths and offer advice on how to set things up right.

not a lot of point spending heaps of $$$ on prof set up unless your doing track days every other weekend... or own a sportsbike ;)

Triumph specify changing the fork oil in the Sprint, every 20,000km. The guys who do it for me tell me that the colour of the oil coming out indicates that it's a good call.

[Ixion]

I am SO not getting into this handbag fight. But, Mr Bass is right.

Changing the position of the spring doesn't alter its 'springiness'. Only changing the spring for a 'springier' one can do that. Or, a system like Velos used to have where the angle of the shock itself can be changed .

Push one end of the spring, and the other end moves. Imagine taking the spring off, and holding it upright with the bottom resting on the ground. Now put a potato on the top of the spring. Measure the spring. Now put a book between the spring and the ground. Measure the spring again. Reckon the meaurement will be any different? The potato will be higher off the ground , but the spring will be the same length.

Replace book with swingarm and wheel. And potato with seat etc. Same deal.

[Bass]

Replace book with swingarm and wheel. And potato with seat etc. Same deal.

And changing the preload is merely changing the distance between the potato and the top of the spring

[Ixion]

Yes. Putting a second book between the potato and the spring doesn't change the length of the spring either. Or its springiness. It will make the potato higher.

(I was thinking of the old Girlings that had the preload at the bottom. But top or bottom, result's the same)

Killing off this urban legend is almost as hard as killing the one that says that putting a huge wide tyre on the back rim improves handling.

[Bass]

Or, a system like Velos used to have where the angle of the shock itself can be changed .


Must have a chat about that over a beer sometime.
Anything other than the isosceles setup that I mentioned gives a falling rate response and I would have thought that would make for some potentially nasty characteristics.

[FilthyLuka]

oh man, now i remember why i don't mess with suspension.

It's literally the only thing on my motorcycles that i will pay someone to do.

Its like a guitars truss rod, set it up and don't fuck with it. Because, as confucus (sp?) once said: "if you fuck it its fucked"

Hey bass, outta curiousity, is this what you do for a living? The 'blade is set up for someone who is 100kg and im 50, so i needa re do it and there is far to many turney things for me to get my head around. Rebound, damping, preload... bah!

edit: (oops, that was a bit of a thread jack wasn't it?)

[Bass]

Hey bass, outta curiousity, is this what you do for a living? The 'blade is set up for someone who is 100kg and im 50, so i needa re do it and there is far to many turney things for me to get my head around. Rebound, damping, preload... bah!

edit: (oops, that was a bit of a thread jack wasn't it?)


PM sent.....

[sunhuntin]

well, after reading through that... i think im just gonna leave it as is for the moment! LOL she didnt complain last week, so yeh. cant have been too hard on her. lol.

thanks ladies and gents.

[Bass]

Oh dear - you asked a simple question and things blew up out of control.
Look, try adjusting the preload up or down, see if it feels better. Your bike's not going to blow up or anything, and it won't make such a huge difference that you'll lose control and crash.

VFman is dead right.
It's the simplest of all the suspension adjustments and it's deliberately made that way because it's intended to deal with changing loads, which happens often, like adding a pillion.
Don't be afraid of it.
If you have concerns, just note where the settings are now. You can always go back there.
On your bike, the adjusters are easily accessible and easy to use.
I doubt that you will notice any difference in the handling, but it will stop the suspension bottoming out and jarring the base of your spine when you are 2-up in the lumpies
I would wager my left one that once you have done it a couple of times, you will be completely comfortable with it and it will take literally seconds.



Now... about adjusting your suspension preload......

[wolf.47]

well, after reading through that... i think im just gonna leave it as is for the moment! LOL she didnt complain last week, so yeh. cant have been too hard on her. lol.

thanks ladies and gents.

I just stick a screw driver in that little hole piece and twist it round to change the setting, try it. Find it will still bottom out going over harsh bumps though like into driveways, even if fully cranked. Adjusting the spring platform up will not lift up the bike cause it can only go as high as the full extended length of the shock. But puts the spring under more compression there for making it stiffer because they are progressive springs.
Sweet.

[sunhuntin]

I just stick a screw driver in that little hole piece and twist it round to change the setting, try it. Find it will still bottom out going over harsh bumps though like into driveways, even if fully cranked. Adjusting the spring platform up will not lift up the bike cause it can only go as high as the full extended length of the shock. But puts the spring under more compression there for making it stiffer because they are progressive springs.
Sweet.

welllll, hi dude!! long time no see! how the hell are ya? :sunny:

ive got a different pillion now, and i dont think doing anything to the suspension will make things more comfy for her. lol. ill just have to take it easy.
now... how to teach her not to lean on me and make me sit on the tank.

[wolf.47]

welllll, hi dude!! long time no see! how the hell are ya? :sunny:

ive got a different pillion now, and i dont think doing anything to the suspension will make things more comfy for her. lol. ill just have to take it easy.
now... how to teach her not to lean on me and make me sit on the tank.

Hi, Im good.
Get my full next mounth (if i pass of course):2thumbsup
Any one wana buy a 250 cruiser.