Running in a new Hyosung GV250

[stevensaaron]

Hi I have just bought a brand spanking new GV250 Hyosung. Now being new i have to run it in. what is the best way to do that. i have heard that you have to be gentle, not full throttle, etc. what are your guys opinions. Any GV250 Riders out there who have been through this. It got dropped off @ my place on Saturday just gone and after getting Insurance on tuesday I have been riding it since Wednesday to and from work, I have gone about 120km so far, any thing I should be checking? I have had a couple of bikes but never a Brand new one so not sure. Thanks in advance.

[The Pastor]

best way to run it in is to take it to the tip and buy a better (i.e., sports) bike.

[Deano]

Ignore him,

did it come with an instruction manual ? Or advice on running in from the shop ?

[Pex Adams]

Depends on how long you are expecting to keep it, if you're expecting to clock up thousands and thousands of km's on it - then generally the rule is to slowly up the rev's over the next 1000 odd km's.
However if your only going to be using the bike as an investment for your next one, then just ride it as you normally will now (wring the tits out of it!), 100+km is plenty to free up the motor. Do your normal checks for oil, water, and the tires. It will probably pay to have a look at the seals over the time until your first service.

[rudolph]

Put a hand full of sand in the oil I find always helps, and squeeze some Jif down the carb and plenty of CRC on those brakes.

[cowboyz]

helpful fuckers round here huh?

I always thought it was best to go 1/3 1/2 3/4 over 250km/600km/1000km
So for the first 250km you use the first 1/3 of the rev range. If it redlines at 10k then you run it to 3. then to 600km you run it to 1/2 which would be 5. then from 6-1000km you run it to 3/4 which would be 7500rpm. Varying revs is better than sitting on a constant. Some people can get real anal about running bikes in and others dont give a shit. I dont know if it really makes that much of a difference but piece of mind is priceless.

[Deano]

I took it easy on the CBR for the first 400km.

No more than 6,000.

As soon as it had done 400km, I took it up to 9,000 progessively over about 50km.

Then I redlined it a couple of times.

Done.

And this was after advice from a pretty competent motorcycle mechanic, who actually said the best way to run a bike in is on a dyno.

[stevensaaron]

Thanx to those who actually helped ;)

I have been takin it pretty easy using the full range of revs, though not pushing it.

Thanx

[obxbiker]

Actually you should read this topic:

BREAKING IN YOUR NEW BIKE, controversial method !!!! (http://z11.invisionfree.com/HyosungCruisersOz/index.php?showtopic=550)

Follow the link posted on this topic.
I and many others have used this method with great results.
Open your mind and read it ALL, remember you are dealing with newer tech. then when the 'old baby it' approach came out.

[mowgli]

I have been takin it pretty easy using the full range of revs, though not pushing it. Thanx

My GT250R has the same engine. I was told by the shop to run it in between 4 and 6 thou. They specifically said to avoid running at lower revs. They also said to avoid maintaining constant rpm.

The other thing to do is crawl over the bike at least every other ride. This will familiarise you with how the bike should look so you'll notice as soon as anything comes loose - nothing so far on my bike.

With mine there were two things I found that needed doing. First was after the first couple a hundy k's I took some slack out of the clutch cable. Makes finding neutral much easier. Second was to remove the slack from the throttle. The bike manual includes instructions for both including how much slack there should be.


Follow the link posted on this topic.
I and many others have used this method with great results.
Open your mind and read it ALL, remember you are dealing with newer tech. then when the 'old baby it' approach came out.
The factory manual is pretty clear (despite typos and poor translation) about running in. I'd use it as prime reference before considering alternative methods.

I have an e-copy of the manual. PM me if you'd like me to email it to you.

[obxbiker]

The factory manual is pretty clear (despite typos and poor translation) about running in. I'd use it as prime reference before considering alternative methods.

And its like ALL factory manuals...stuck in the past.
(based on old HD engines, manufactoring engines has changed alot)

Did you read all the information or are you just stating an opinion that you have heard and have lived with.
Please read it before forming an opinion.

I tested this using two identical motorcycles.
The one where I used the 'controversial method' out performs the other !!
Please read the 'alternative method' to understand the 'why'.

[mowgli]

And its like ALL factory manuals...stuck in the past.
(based on old HD engines, manufactoring engines has changed alot)

Did you read all the information or are you just stating an opinion that you have heard and have lived with.
Please read it before forming an opinion.

A fair enough statement. The article was very interesting but as I am new to motorcycles I will for now, defer to the closest expert rather than an Internet article. In my case that expert is the mechanic in the shop.

I don't mean any offence here. This "controversial" method may work well but it's not for noobs. If I followed all such advice from the Internet I'd have magnets on my fuel line and crystals in the dash. In the worst case I've taken a 2-10% power hit for the sake of peace of mind. For a noob that's a pretty good deal.

[WarlockNZ]

I always apply the following rule, run in the bike exactally how you intend to ride it in the future.

I didn't run my old GTR in by the manual, i rode it and it never let me down.

just my 2 cents : )

[madandy]

http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm

I ran my 15 grand RB26 GT-R engine in this way...it goes really well. Better than other similarly spec'd GT-Rs.

[bonus]

http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm

I used this method also on my new GT250R (which is basically the same engine) with fantastic results, ive seen other gt250rs who have run their bikes in via the manual and there already blowing smoke from the rings not being seated in properly

[Trouser]

I also have used the mototune 'method'. On three bikes and a scooter it has not let me down. My current honda cbf 250 got a right royal mototune running in. Goes bloody well for a 250 single now.

At your stage its too late for a perfect job but please, please, please for the sake of your new engine change the oil and filter. Or at the very least the oil.

I changed the oil in the three bikes at 80-100ks and it was filthy and full of metal. As it sits in the oil change pan I could easily see the shine of metal floating on the top and suspended in the oil. The oil filter for the first couple of changes had quite a lot of metal and bits of fluff in it.

[bonus]

I also have used the mototune 'method'. On three bikes and a scooter it has not let me down. My current honda cbf 250 got a right royal mototune running in. Goes bloody well for a 250 single now.

At your stage its too late for a perfect job but please, please, please for the sake of your new engine change the oil and filter. Or at the very least the oil.

I changed the oil in the three bikes at 80-100ks and it was filthy and full of metal. As it sits in the oil change pan I could easily see the shine of metal floating on the top and suspended in the oil. The oil filter for the first couple of changes had quite a lot of metal and bits of fluff in it.

I second this aswell, i changed the oil of my GT250R at 35kms and it was full of metal shavings!!!!!

[TimeOut]

I also have used the mototune 'method'. On three bikes and a scooter it has not let me down. My current honda cbf 250 got a right royal mototune running in. Goes bloody well for a 250 single now.

At your stage its too late for a perfect job but please, please, please for the sake of your new engine change the oil and filter. Or at the very least the oil.

I changed the oil in the three bikes at 80-100ks and it was filthy and full of metal. As it sits in the oil change pan I could easily see the shine of metal floating on the top and suspended in the oil. The oil filter for the first couple of changes had quite a lot of metal and bits of fluff in it.

Big Plus
Run my DL 650 in with the mototune method, not the high revs initally but plenty of WOT. The reason the manufactors don't recomend this is if someone got killed giving the bike WOT they might be liable.
I've had two Honda TRX's that needed new rings at 10,000km because they were run in easy.

[stevensaaron]

Hey thanx for the help. That website was really interesting. I have now done just over 200km, after reading that webite i will change the oil and filter of my bike tomorrow. I have also signed up for their newsletter. and I will ride it harder now, I have been riding it hard but now I will ride it like i would normally ride it. Cheers

[Devil]

Want to keep your warranty? Then pay attention to the manual and advice from the shop. It's pretty simple. If they find out you've done it using the "break in secrets" method and something goes wrong, even if it's unrelated they can just turn around and tell you to fuck off because you're not following the manufacturers recommendations.

Your choice.

I ran my Triumph in using Triumphs guidelines (running in process goes all the way to 1600km) and it's running BEAUTIFULLY. Up to 63,000km now, no smoke, nothing.

Fuck thrashing the engine for two extra horsepower. It's not relevant anywhere but on the track.

I'm amazed this topic comes up every 5 seconds. Are the dealers not telling people who buy new bikes about how to run it in? or are people just ignoring what they say?