View Full Version : Charge current - check - how / where?
Duc
4th February 2008, 12:11
How do I check the charge current on my CB550. (Note: I am an electrical klutz))
ie - where do I attach my meter? What should it read ? (13V+ I would expect)
I suspect I am not getting a charge on my just finished project. Battery seemed to flatten while I was riding. - wouldnt start on the starter. Kick started fine.
EDIT
I have just read this guys post http://www.kiwibiker.co.nz/forums/showthread.php?t=65636 and this may offer me some clues.
BTW -New battery.
surfer
4th February 2008, 13:42
Yep, that is a reasonably good thread to look at for knowing what to start looking for when checking your charging circuit. Well done for finding it.
Put the multimeter across the battery (attach to the battery terminals) to read the voltage when engine not running, should read 12v. Then charge it up over night with a battery charger and check it again.
Start with the cheap and easy to do stuff first after you have charged up your battery and checked it. Makes finding an electrical problem much harder if you have a duff battery at the start.
Also refer to the bikes manual, this will help you as well.
Good luck
FROSTY
4th February 2008, 13:54
Before panicing I'd be tracing back to all the electrical connections on the ol beast.The charge system might be fine just corroded contacts
pete376403
4th February 2008, 14:09
(This should be sticky as it comes up so often)
http://www.thegsresources.com/garage/gs_statorfacts.htm
will tell you more than you ever wanted to know about charging systems. Althougha Suzuki site (did anything not made in England have worse electrics in the '80s?) most of it is common to motorcycle three phase alternator charging systems
Duc
4th February 2008, 18:07
Thanx.
I charged battery today and she started fine.
I have checked the starter and the solenoid with an auto electrician.
I will get the rectifier and the regulator checked tomorrow.
All contacts / connections are immaculate.
I kind of hope its a rectifier or regulator. They are over thirty years old now and they are an easy fix. I know where there are some new ones. (EconoHonda). - "throw the cat another goldfish"
Meantime I will run with no lights (during the day).
Ixion
4th February 2008, 18:14
One other possibility, especially if have been riding on permanent main beam. Someone may have replaced the original (doubtless feeble) bulbs with higher wattage ones.
Many of the bikes of that era had just barely enough current to maintain the battery charge with lights on. If the (say) 48W bulb is replaced with a (say) 100W , then the extra 4 or so amps will deplete the battery after a few hours.
Paul in NZ
4th February 2008, 18:21
Two quick things before you spend some $$..
First off - Do you have a multimeter? (NO?? seriously - they are dirt cheap these days and well worth it - if you do - measure the DC volts across the batt at idle, 2500rpm and 5000rpm, lights on and lights off - if NOT do the lights get brigther when you rev the engine?)
Second - Did you powdercoat the frame? The powdercoating can screw up earth connectivity. (some jap bikes rely on the chassis to earth the rect reg. You may need to run earth straps between the engine - chassis - rect reg - regardless, this is a very very good idea anyway.)
thirdly (ok I lied) how many wires come out of the alternator?
Duc
5th February 2008, 08:17
I have a multimeter but only know how to use a few functions on it. Frame was powder coated but I was very careful to create good grounds to it.
Lights - I did change the headlight but in fact its a lower wattage unit. (55/65Watt)
Anyway... I just had the electrix checked over by an auto electrician and the charging is down a little.
He did checks in a way that I will never learn or understand ..eg phases, AC /DC etc although I understand what they do better thanx to the info posted here and the excellent links.
Stator, rectifier and phases are fine but seems the regulator is a bit dodgy. I have ordered a new one from EconoHonda ($200). Thank god the rectifier was ok ($800).
(Think I will get a battery tender also)
wasabioik
29th April 2008, 20:47
First,
Can not start engine by stater: May be your battery enough voltage but not enough ampere. In this case you have to buy new battery
Check charging curent:
Set your multitester to: Vdc
Red rod attach possitive pole on baterry
Black ... to negative ...
crank your engine reach 5000rpm over
Read on the multimeter 14-15V
Your charging sys is OK
Luck
Powered by vBulletin® Version 4.2.5 Copyright © 2025 vBulletin Solutions Inc. All rights reserved.