Tools required for a motorcyclist

[F5 Dave]

Ok so you own one of these motorcycle thingies & it has occurred to you that sometimes they need maintenance, repairs or adjustments in the workshop.
(I’m not intending for this to become a ‘what should I carry’ thread)

What does one do about tools?

a) Rely on the toolkit (unless it was 2nd hand & therefore stolen by the last owner) as this is what the manufacturer specified & using unbranded tools may invalidate the warranty?
b) Empty the coffers & tell the Snap-on man to just come & deliver the whole cattledog job-lot?
c) Buy one of those every-tool-included suitcase from Supercheap or similar?
d) None of the above

OK so for the workshop you are setting up you will probably be on a budget, after all you just spent most of your wedge on buying the bike. But if you decide that you’d like to perform more maintenance yourself then you will need the proper tools or you will cause more damage than you are trying to save by taking it to the shop.

Ok we’ll start with option a) these tools are the cheapest bidders the manufacturers could find that an owner could remove some parts of the motorcycle at least once without causing too much damage to cause a rash of warranty claims. Nasty.
b) Are you a professional mechanic? No didn’t think so.
c) These kits are made by the companies rejected in a) for being too low quality. Avoid like the plague.

So d) it is.

Maybe if I start with a bit of a list, people can poke holes in it & I can edit the main list at the start of the thread.

I’m going to start with the theory that most motorcyclists are typically cheapskates and will buy on price. To some extent one has to proceed with caution. One might not need all these tools if this is just a passing fad. But generally there’s no tool so expensive as one that damages what you are trying to fix & then needs replacing with progressively more expensive tools.

So what we are looking for are ‘fit for purpose’ good value tools.

I am often amazed at what people try to get by with & the absolute rubbish that come as suitcase kits.

Maybe 2 lists; bare minimum & nice to have.





Ok Bare Minimum

Hammer Ideally large ball peen hammer, but can make do with a woodwork claw if you already have one.
Rubber Mallet Cheap & will save axle threads when you are tempted to bash with hammer or other tool
Screwdrivers Both Flatblade & Crosshead. Several sizes of each. Cheap ones will let you down. Push when using cross head. Screwdrivers are not levers, never use them as such.
Cheap flatblade screwdrivers These are in fact sacrificial chisels & levers. You’re going to do it so have some specifically for it & never use for other purposes. Obviously don’t try to lever things that will be damaged, like ally sidecovers.
Allen keys Don’t buy that rubbish on a spring set. By a proper set of ½ doz metric in a row holder
Impact driver Blue box type from Ripco will be fine.
Pliers Fine nose & sturdy type. Some linesman cutters as well
Circlip pliers One of those combination internal/external sets will suffice, even if they make you learn some new swear words
Spanners Metric as a set is more economical, 8, 10, 12, 13, 14, 17, 19mm at a min
Socket set As above. I prefer ½” drive as they are more sturdy, Many prefer 1/4 drive; preference. This is probably the bigger ticket item as a set. Save money & frustration, you will never need an imperial mixed set. It would be nice to get some larger sizes as well, 22, 24, 27, 30 for instance. Spark plug sockets to fit your bike may be nice. Pick carefully.
Big Cresent Wrench These make fabulous benders. Not so hot on nuts & bolts. Be very careful.
Vice Larger the better, but can be cheap. Large coachbolts & mount to a bench or anything
Drill Many bargains about are ok, beware too cheap drill bits.
Hack saw
Files
Kneepads or some carpet
Rags Do you really wear that BonJovi T anymore?
Pad For writing down those parts required
Hand cleaner Washing powder at a push

The nice to have list/buy as required list

Tool box Forget the million dollar one, a couple of big plastic ones are ok, but if can set up a board close to the work area with some screws & pencil some outlines. This will save hours of rooting around. Really.
Workbench Something sturdy to work on, build or 2nd hand
Bike bench Something sturdy to work on, build or 2nd hand, about 400 high. Need plank to load & a paddock stand or tiedowns etc to secure.
Seat Cut down a seat if no bike bench.
Torque wrench Don’t buy one too large, say around the 2-40NM range is where you will be using it most.
Flywheel puller Useful on 2 stroke dirtbikes etc Only a few different types
T Bars Cross head screwdriver & 8/10/12mm socket will make life in the garage more joyous. As will a T bar allen set (surprisingly the $20 supercheap one is good). Won’t fit in all places so still need std set.
Long wrecking bar Life is nice when you have some leverage. An ~800mm long fixed bar for your sockets will be valuable. Don’t try to use one of those cheapo torque wrenches, the bending makes them useless.
Compressor Really they are so cheap & blowing out carbs & pumping tyres will make you wonder how you did without one. It’s at this stage where a slightly bigger one will drive an impact wrench better, but you can get by with a small one most of the time. No you can't spray with it. Need a really big one.
Impact Wrench Don’t use to do nuts up with, but great for shocking nuts off.
Decent Circlip pliers for external & internal.
Drill press Small ok, mounted & get a mini vice for holding work
Bench Grinder One side for grinding steel, the other fit a wire brush. Beware of where things that slip out of hands will get flung at 100mph (grinders were never metricised so only fling things at 100mph). Mount as far away from bike or car, ideally near the messy drill/vice area.
Verniers Digital are easiest but mech will suffice.
Mulitimeter Dick Smith will provide a cheapo one for $20. Read the manual & you will work out how to use one or just experiment & look on the web.
Soldering Iron & solder & heatshrink
Torch Small but powerful

additions While suggested or I think of it:
Vice grips Used with care can be valuable.
Vice grip with a chain Great for holding flywheels etc.
In Hex Sockets
Needle nose vice grips
Ratchet spanners
Poly (multi) grips large Use with caution

[Trudes]

Very interesting stuff Dave!!! Thanks!:niceone:
My Dad and brother were both mechanical boys who did all their own "fix its" on all our tractors, trucks, cars etc etc, so we had a huge shed which was fully loaded with good quality goodies, so I grew up being spoiled with knowing if there was a tool I needed, I could always find it (eventually).
These days I live with a husband who likes the idea of tools but doesn't really use them, so we have cheap shitty tools at our house.
After working with Skunk's tools on Saturday, it made me aware just how much easier everything is when you have a) the right tool for the job and b) good quality tools. I have to say that some good quality tools will be on my birthday wish list this year, as I plan on doing the servicing on my Hornet from now on and now have a bucket that will no doubt need constant repairs, so good to know what I should be getting, so cheers!

[FilthyLuka]

Kraftwerk make some pretty good kit, i have a full 1/2inch drive socket set from 'em, 8mm-30mm metric and a bunch of imperial gathering dust. Haven't let me down yet :) Haven't been able to find 'em in NZ though :(

As F5 Dave has said, get a drill. What i reckon you should ad to that list though, STUD EXTRACTORS. These things come in real handy. Drill the broken bolt, wind the stud extractor in (anti-clockwise), keep winding untill the bolt comes out :)

Also, if you can get away with it get a corded drill, they spin crazy go nuts fast and can do pretty much anything you will need to do. i just hate picking up the drill and finding the batteries flat... GRRR!

[skelstar]

Awesome post Dave. Have to say buying a couple of ratchet rings spanners as luxury items makes some chores more enjoyable. 8mm, and 10mm for me. Maybe 4mm and 5mm T-handle allen-keys as well.

Ohh... and floodlights.

[Str8 Jacket]

And all I bloody want/need is a piston! :confused:

[FROSTY]

My toolkit has been built up over a few years--.
I think for a novice a good quality 1/4 drive set is better possibly a 3/8 set --Seeing my latest apprentice heading towards a m6 (10mm head) bolt with a 1/2 drive socket and Im reaching for the mallet to toss at him and the easy out to rip out the busted bolt.
My stuff is mostly sidchrome,starwille and Koken but when my gargre got robbed I grabbed a 3/8 and 1/4 drive set of King Tony stuff--not bad at all

One other screwdriver I've got specific to working on bikes is a solid shaft hi tensile stubby -Its fantastic for removing stubborn poz/philipsscrews without resorting to the trusty impact screwdriver.

[Cajun]

like skelstar said, a good set of lights to work in garage is a handy.

And a good socket set is a must, many of the socket sets you buy now have 10-16 edges on them, the ones which have 6 edges are far better, and less likey to slip and ruin bolts.

I also brought a 32mm socket and an 1/2" drive few years ago, its only use for undoing the rear nut on GSX-R
-------
Regarding tools, they are one of those things, you if you buy good quality it will last a life time, and there are always things that upgrade, certian things you can buy cheap things, other items its always buy best you can afford.

Many items above are very useful, any somethign to aim for in your garage, and will take time to get up. But its damn annoying in middle of a job and reliese you don't have the tool you want. Also i guess some items will really be needed if you do really fiddle with your bike or weather you do nothing and let the people who know what they are doing but many anyone should have in there garage.
-----

Its also good just reading the junk mail from places like bunnings, supercheap, mitre 10. Sometimes they have some good quality tools come up for good prices, and even if you are in there for something else look at the tool section and see if any bargins can be had.

[FzerozeroT]

+1 on ratchet spanners

Allen(hex) 3/8 drive, you only need two or three to fit 90% of the allen bolts on your modern jap bike.

3/8 Ratchet - get the best you can afford/find at a garage sale (Stahwillie)
3/8 six wall tube sockets, buy a cheap name brand (Great Neck (yes I am ashamed) ) they fit all the way over long threads to a nut and also fit every random sparkplug you are ever going to come across

[Blue Velvet]

Nice list. Tools are oarsome. I had to buy tools because god didn't bless me with great tits :crybaby:

[FROSTY]

Nice list. Tools are oarsome. I had to buy tools because god didn't bless me with great tits :crybaby:
more than a mouthfulls a waste :devil2:

[Blue Velvet]

... garage is... handy.

I found having a gargre to be one of the handiest tools. They're also cool for storing your tools. Wardrobes can get a bit cluttered.

[FROSTY]

ACTUALLY--thinking about it I do dissagree sorry dave.
1)Quality pozi screwdrivers-preferably hi tensile blades on em.
2) 1/4 drive and 3/8 drive socket set-good quality-
When in doubt go SMALL
3) Impact screwdriver.
4)Quality L hex heys --Think Bhondus ya cant go wrong.
5)Decent quality spanners. M8 M10 m12 m14 M17 and M19
6)QUALITY tyre pressure qauge.
if I was starting out I'd start with that list then add to it as needed

Looking in the gargre now.
Compressor--calculate how much air ya need -then get a compressor DOUBLE its capacity.
Air gun-unbelievably usefull tool
Degreaser gun
1/2 inch rattle gun
3/8 air ratchet.
Spray paint gun small
Air die grinder.
Tyre inflator
Wheel balancer,tyre levers,tyre remover,
welder
portable lights.
1/4.3/8 and 1/2 inch socket set
shitty sockets -selection of
Impact socket set-1/2 drive
ratchet spanners-8.10.12.13.14.17.19
spanners 2x 6.7.8.9.10.11.12.13.14.15.16.17.18.19. 1x20.21.22.23.24.25
philips,pozi,flat screwdrivers -quality-selection of
pry bars--selection of.
Angle grinder
Electric drill-battery
Tie wire tool
selection of pullers for pulleys,electrics etc.
Rubber,copper,rawhide mallets,
fuckoff big sledghammer
hacksaw.
Tyre gauge.
Voltmeter
continuity tester.
Thread cleaner.
recoil 6 x1 and 1.2 8 x1.25/1.5
dial gauge
compression tester
Feeler gauges
Shim tools
suspension spanners
Deep socket set
"strange'screwdriver bits-snake eyes etc
Vice grips.
big Vice
selection of pipee 600mm long-19/25/32mm iID.
gREASE GUN,SEALANT GUN
Gasket cutters
pit standds

[GSVR]

Interestingly you don't have any feeler gauges on your list Dave

A few taps along with tapping drills and common helicoils are always good to have too. Especailly when you start working on shitters that others have had a go at.

[GSVR]

Also the best tool (if you can call it that) is the workshop manual for your bike. Haynes manuals ussually have a section on tools and give you a guide as to how difficult a job might be.

[FilthyLuka]

Yeah, you might wanna ad feeler gauges. Cant set valve clearances with out feeler guages...

[vifferman]

You've pretty much covered the field there, Dave. :niceone:
The only things I'd add are one of those telescopic magnet thingos (having had four 4-engined bikes, I know they all have a black hole installed in the engine V, and the only way to retrieve bits that disappear is to either turn the bike upside down and shake it, or probe away with a magnet on a stick.

Also, I have a pair of needle-nosed vicegrips that I've used possibly more than any other tool - not for bastardising nuts'n'bolts, but for holding things. It's also the only thing I can use to remove the restrictor from the Satantune.

A friend of mine in the US bought me a set of those ratchet spanners when he was collecting parts for me. They cost him US$10, and sell here for ~$50. They're not as good or strong as a socket set, but very useful for confined spaces.

A hot air gun can be useful too.

[GSVR]

I'm going to suggest a timing light as well but with modern bikes hardly necessary.

[tri boy]

Comfy chair or two.
Bottle o Bourbon.
Favourite mind altering drug of choice. Pillow.
All required for those moments when jobs turn to shit, mrs tells you "stay out there!", and when mates drop by.
Sorry dave, but after spending 40+k on tools, the enthusiasm is waning.:mellow:

If you people plan on doing a lot of their own work. Buy midrange. Otherwise you'll be overspending.:msn-wink:

[GSVR]

Valve tool,Bead Breaker and tyre spoons/levers would be great for anyone that wants to save a few bucks. Car tyres are also alot easier to change than you may think too.

[avgas]

Bah you can do everything with the kit under the seat lol

[GSVR]

Other stuff you really must have is antiseize. penetrating oil and some select loctite products.

Also selections of nyloc nuts, bolts, washers, splitpins etc etc etc.

These are all consumables but you will be screwed if you don't have them and will find youself off to the hardware if they are open half way thru a job.

Good quality grease and a greasegun for suspension linkages but these days you don't see to many grease nipples. (Cost cutting I suspect)

[F5 Dave]

Socket sets

Yes a very opinionated subject, everybody has an idea & I’m by no means advocating that my particular bias is correct. Preference.

I have 3 sets but was trying to make it cheaper to start off on.

I have ¼ for tiny stuff, hardly ever use it, nice to have.

3/8 was my first motoguard set I misappropriated from my dad. Pretty low quality but has lasted & great for 8 & 10mm & sparkplugs + my beloved 3/8 socket allen set (how could I have forgotten? Actually there is a heap I have forgotten but I had to make a start on the list, this is a thread I’ve been thinking about for a few months starting, just never had the time).

But my fave is my ½” set. I bought a elcheapo OSMO set back about ’82 for $30, back when no one had ever considered that the Chinese would make tools & tools were expensive so $30 was only going to buy crap. But I got lucky. They were 6 point hex made with enough precision that I will never go back to 12 point sockets. The year before I put a crack in the 17mm but that’s it. I got given a Tipco ratchet which is a dam sight older than I am, close to double? but is lovely to use.

Didn’t include ratchet spanners as they are expensive for what they are. But they are nice, time to update the list a little. I only went for 10/12/13/14.

Handy tip: I can tell the size of a spanner or socket from looking at it quickly, but the only one that catches me out is the damn 13mm. Silly idea really & the Japs don’t use them, but sadly they are ingrained in our system & lets not even mention euro bikes that have all sorts of crazy sizes.

Paint doesn’t stick on long so I have a bit of heatshrink over my 13 spanners & a grind line on my 13 socket so I can tell the diff at a glance.

[edit] I have also got a Metrinch (sp) wall driver set. These are great for rounded off heads as they drive on the wals rather than the points. However I have found I virtually never need to use them as the 6 pointers are so good. Also they are a pain for everyday use as they slop around on the bolthead.

Impact socket set is good as well esp deep walled one. Hardly ever use it but I know it's there. Might have saved me cracking my 17 if I'd not been so lazy haha.

[Pussy]

I also have three torque wrenches..1/2" drive, 3/8" drive and 1/4" drive. I always tighten the fasteners to the service manual recommendation

[FROSTY]

ooops--yea torque wrench
silly me

[Blue Velvet]

ooops--yea torque wrench

Tut tut Frosty. You're losing it... Heh

[F5 Dave]

Well people are poking holes which is what I kinda was asking for. As I said though it was to be a list to get started with rather than a lets scare everyone off I can never afford this sort of thing.

I have everything listed so far with the exception of extractors. Never had the need for them or rather had found other ways around. I didn’t include a lathe or Mig, but damn they are useful. Just don’t go crazy spending money if you can pay someone else several times to do a job you will not get the money back on.

Crap. Did I not put torque wrench? Oh hold on

[F5 Dave]

Ok I will update the list as it matures, but I might temper it slightly so as not to be a list of every tool produced.
Plastic faced hammer for example? Well you don’t have to have one, its just nice. I use mine all the time. Oh crap. Bad example.


Ok so where to buy tools?

Where everyone gets a bargain? No they have not stepped up to the plate or even attempted to with the exception of the rubber mallet.

OK so most people will attempt to shop at M10, Supercheap or Ripco. Indeed there are some worthy tools here but one has to be very careful. There is also some junk. A lot of it. Anything to do with fastners buy reasonable quality.

Fullers, Sidchrome, Repco, Motorgaurd all are medium quality, they used to be considered bad quality but have lifted their game. Unbranded stuff avoid.

While we would all love to be using top label stuff most cannot afford if they need to buy other tools as well. My fav 10mm ring-spanner is a Stahwhile (sp) thin accurate & no idea where it came from. Only issue with the larger ones are they thin & cut into you when you lean on them.

Check out places like engineering supplies. Their lower level stuff like Teng, Kingchrome etc is sometimes on special & great value.

I guess trademe might have some good 2nd hand stuff, but please make efforts not to buy anything stolen. Also there will be a lot of people trying to sell low grade new stuff that pictures well for a decent wad more than it’s worth.

[Motu]

Several cans of satin black.These days I prefer the black zinc spray,it's really tough stuff.

Socket sets,I'm with Frosty.As a pwofessional I use 3/8in for 80% of my work,and 1/4in for 15%.....the 1/2in is only used on the impact gun.

[rwh]

when you are tempted to bash with hammer or other tool
Screwdrivers Both Flatblade & Crosshead. Several sizes of each. Cheap ones will let you down. Push when using cross head. Screwdrivers are not levers, never use them as such.

I'm a bit wary of bundling all 'Crosshead' screws/drivers together. Too easy to damage either the head or the driver by using the wrong one. I guess most on bikes are Pozi rather than Philips, but it's handy to have both - and be able to tell the difference :)

Richard

[FROSTY]

I think the emphasis should be on QUALITY
I sometimes get asked if I want tools for Birthdays n stuff and ALWAYS they tell me they could buy a WHOLE set for the same price as one single spanner or screwdriver
A quality tool will literally last you a lifetime as a non professional mechanic and a fair few years if used regularly by a professional.
I've been a customer of the sulco tools truck for years as well as the local engineering supply company

[skelstar]

Ha, asked parents for 2 ratchet ring spanners for Birthday (an 8mm, 10mm) and told Dad 'dont get me the yellow ones from SuperCheap, theyre horrible'. One set of yellow ratchet ring spanners later and I was on my way to Repco to buy my own ones :stupid:

[Mental Trousers]

I don't see a beer fridge anywhere in any of that lot.

[awayatc]

And a padlock.....:bleh: that is for those blessed with a son (or 2...:msn-wink:)
Because if you can't lock your tools away...you have to buy the same ones again..and again...and again....:crybaby:

[Madness]

Avoid new Sidchrome like the plague. It was made in Melbourne up until a few years ago, now it's the same as 15 other Taiwanese generic brands but more expensive. The warranty & spares (ratchet kits etc.) service is crap.

Fuller Tools offer a full replacement warranty, second (only coz they dont deliver) to Snap Off. Fuller is a small Kiwi company that has "jumped onto the back" of Fuller in North America.

Other tools I wouldn't consider anything else;
Hex Keys- Bondhus
Inhex sockets & ratchets- Koken
Ratchet Screwdriver- Snap Off

Specialty tools like Torque Wrenches require quality. The accuracy of a cheap Torque Wrench will give you a guide, a more critical application would deserve a Warren & Brown or Norbar, $$. Sykes-Pickavant is now French owned and a lot of Snap Off & Blue Point is actually K.D, the latter being cheaper.

[skelstar]

Pro-built tools are good?

(the ones sold at Repco eh?)

[Madness]

Pro-built tools are good?

(the ones sold at Repco eh?)

I would only ever buy tools from Rapeco on a sunday afternoon at around 3.25 with a desperate look on my face.

Engineering Supplies Ltd
23 Sydney Street
Petone
04 5685048
Ask for Mike.

[FilthyLuka]

has anybody dealt with www.sulco.co.nz ?

Im looking to get a set of inhex sockets shortly

Something like this:

http://www.sulco.co.nz/Product?Action=View&Product_id=9720

Would be a good purchase for someone looking to work on there own bikes, genius brand are not too bad aswell

[Ocean1]

Couple of points.

Screwdrivers. You can get 'em wiv very soft tips. They're crap.
You can get 'em wiv very hard tips, wot break. They're crap too.
Once in a long time you find one just right, not too soft an' not too hard. Buy more of 'em. With screws of a difficult disposition it helps if you use a wee dab of fine grinding paste on the tip, improves the traction, and the success rate. Helps if you do it first, not after you've fucked the head.

Ezy-outs. With a lot of experience and care they work maybe one in 3 times. Look for a set of left handed drills, if you find a decent set buy 'em. Drilling carefully up the exact centre of (say) an 8mm bolt stub with a 6mm LH drill will yeild a success rate of 2 in 3, usually when the drill breaks through the bolt end the remains will just spin out. For the other third you gota know the right words, the ones they omly teach at hairy-arse-fitter school. That, and the location of the nearest spark eroder.

6 sided sockets are good for impact drivers, or if they're lowish quality. Otherwise get 12 sided ones, much thinner wall, will fit over bolt heads in counterbores, rebates, or just in tight spaces.

May want to check that metric spanner/socket set, they're made to different standards. Some have 16mm and some have 17mm, not many medium priced sets have both, what does your bike need?

[Wired1]

Well that's a lot of reading but I wanted to make sure I didn't say something that's already been said.
Vices - buy a good one, I'm on my second one having broken the first, $100 buys you a good vice.
Add a battery drill, mapgas torch (for getting stubborn things out) and a selection of hammers. As one of my old bosses used to say "there's no such thing as rough practice, just rough tradesmen" .
Good lighting is essential as you get older, and a few pairs of the $2 shop glasses scattered around the workshop - they have plastic lenses so double as safety glasses! I just added a sink to the workshop too so now I don't have to go back to the house everytime I want to wash some paint stripper off my arm.
And as for socket sets, buy Bahco. That's the new name for Sandvik you might remember from the early eighties, very good gear an under-rated in this country so a bargain. I haven't broken any of them yet and I use a lot of force on occasion. I got me a 3/8 and 1/2 inch sets and that does just about everything except the big nut on the end of the crank on some bikes but you can always buy a one-off socket for that sucker.
Shopping at M10 or super crap is OK if you are buying heavy items like pinch bars and hammers, even some other tools if you shop by brand. Buy your screw drivers, circlip pliers and tools requiring precision at a proper tool shop and pay for the better quality.

[Subike]

Keep an eye out for a set of Koken stud removers ( they the only people who make them)
They come in a box of four, and look like sparklug sockets
they are the bees knees for removing studs from anything
will fit 6,8,10,12 mm studs and are servicabile if they get worn.

6 sided tube sockets 10-17mm all you need

A set of pin punched

a set of wad punches, ( for making your own gaskets out of weetbix boxes!)


Dont forget you need three 8" g cramps, wonderfull rear tyre bead breakers

And a cuss jar on the wall for all those wonderfull words you will say often!

[homer]

I like the bit you say about the half inch drive socket set in metric

I just a few weeks ago got a Bahco set
thought its great ,probably wont ever hardly use it but have it when i need it
i also have a spanner set ring open ender in sizes from 6mm up to 19 and i brought the 15mm 16mm and 18 mm seperate so as to have a compleate set
have a imperial metric allen key set from M10

second time i get the socket set out to change a tow ball on the car i find the 27mm to small and the 30mm to big
so now im ordering the 25mm 26mm 28 mm to basicly compleate this set to

gee i get sick of what you want you dont have
i think its time a spanner set or socket set didnt over lap in size and it had all the sizes


I also have a set of tapered wrenches size from 9 mm to 22 mm
and all imperial inbetween all in just 4 wrenches
there basicaly a tapered socket

[Wired1]

gee i get sick of what you want you dont have
i think its time a spanner set or socket set didnt over lap in size and it had all the sizes

When I take power I'll standardise all the motor bikes so they only use 3 or 4 different size nuts and bolts for the whole bike, lets say 10mm, 14mm, 24mm and 32mm. Just add a few more bolts here and there if the strength is needed. And about all those different oil filters ...

[homer]

When I take power I'll standardise all the motor bikes so they only use 3 or 4 different size nuts and bolts for the whole bike, lets say 10mm, 14mm, 24mm and 32mm. Just add a few more bolts here and there if the strength is needed. And about all those different oil filters ...

Thats a wicked idea

[Ocean1]

And a cuss jar on the wall for all those wonderfull words you will say often!


Cuss jar?

Fugoff, learnin' all dem special incantations cost me a godam fortune, buggered if I'm gona pay for using 'em.

[Motu]

As someone who has invested more in my tools than most of you have in your bikes,make that several bikes - I don't really care about quality or brand names anymore.I'm just as happy to earn my living with crap tools - quality is over rated....but if it makes you feel good,go for it.

[cowpoos]

As someone who has invested more in my tools than most of you have in your bikes,make that several bikes - I don't really care about quality or brand names anymore.I'm just as happy to earn my living with crap tools - quality is over rated....but if it makes you feel good,go for it.
is that a case of lossing them before you break them motu?

[cowpoos]

I don't see a beer fridge anywhere in any of that lot.
or a wig wong for a goose's bridle!! blimmin eck!!

[Ixion]

My tools are a motley rag bag lot. Some I inherited from my father, some I bought cos I needed that spefiic size spanner, or I found them in old cars, or second hand shops. Church fairs used to be good places to buy tools, old geezers would die and the widows wouldn't know what to do with his tools (this was before Trademe) so they'd donate them to the church fair.

I still prowl through second hand shops and such like to see if I can score a decent spanner of a puller or something.

Many of mine have been bent, ground down, shortened, lengthened, mangled in some way, to make them work better on some particular bolt. I indentify them as "the spanner for the bastard barrel nut on Triumph 650s" or "the chopped down screwdriver for the inaccessible cover screw on T500s" , and so on.

I've very rarely bought sets of anything , except Allen keys (BTW who the hell was Mr Allen I assume there was such a one ?)

I don't really give a stuff about brand names (I must have at least 30 or 40 different ones), so long as they get the bloody nut undone.

[Motu]

is that a case of lossing them before you break them motu?

Stolen more like - don't turn your back on a customer.These days most tools are made in the same place,a different name stamped on them for the night shift.I get to read a dozen different tool cateloges,same tools,different names.I've been handling these things so long I know a good one from a bad one - and good name doesn't mean good tool anymore.

[F5 Dave]

Well I'm glad there are a few respected mechanics with that attitude, it's very easy to get a bit precious with high end tools.

I've bought some cheapo stuff that has failed & has been replaced with better stuff but I've also I've got lucky with some so it's stayed. Junk however will always be junk.

I knew I'd regret my I can tell a size by looking at it comment. Sunday I'm tinkering & manage to use a 13 on a 12 & pick up the 15mm socket instead of the 14. Pride cometh before etc. -Course I wouldn't have these silly sizes if it wasn't for euro bikes.

Worse was the bloody Beta. Had a bastard header flange that you could only get to with open ender & was 11mm head with a M7 thread. Gee thanks guys, Allen with M6 would have been a site more convenient & probably cheaper. Where the hell do you buy M7 thread? - Who cares now, not my problem.

I'll get around to updating the first list when I have some time.

I've had friends lose tools from work. People! Feel 'the man' owes them a living so it's ok to steal from people who are 'taking money from them' as by definition they are 'the man'.

Race meets are an excellent place to lose tools, most people are generous to try & help others but people then in the rush of getting the job done & back out sometimes forget the tools are to be returned. I've always been careful to return tools, however I usually take enough so I don't have to borrow. However I still have no idea where my 10mm Stahwille came from. Perhaps someone's mate returned tools to me?

Strangely on the subject of race meets. When I go far I take everything & every spare I have. Less so on med distance. But noticed in recent local meets I take virtually nothing, a few spanners. Odd as I'm unlikely to go home to get stuff.

[homer]

My tools are a motley rag bag lot. Some I inherited from my father, some I bought cos I needed that spefiic size spanner, or I found them in old cars, or second hand shops. Church fairs used to be good places to buy tools, old geezers would die and the widows wouldn't know what to do with his tools (this was before Trademe) so they'd donate them to the church fair.

I still prowl through second hand shops and such like to see if I can score a decent spanner of a puller or something.

Many of mine have been bent, ground down, shortened, lengthened, mangled in some way, to make them work better on some particular bolt. I indentify them as "the spanner for the bastard barrel nut on Triumph 650s" or "the chopped down screwdriver for the inaccessible cover screw on T500s" , and so on.

I've very rarely bought sets of anything , except Allen keys (BTW who the hell was Mr Allen I assume there was such a one ?)

I don't really give a stuff about brand names (I must have at least 30 or 40 different ones), so long as they get the bloody nut undone.

Funny you say that cause i had wondered who the fuck allen was as well
now if it was alice ...well that a while new story

[Wired1]

"Allen wrench" was originally a trademark of the Allen Manufacturing Company in Hartford, Connecticut, taken out in 1943. In France, it is called "clef Allen". In Germany, the Netherlands, Poland and in Russia, this type of screw is known by the name "Inbus", after the company that patented them in 1936, Bauer & Schaurte Karcher in Beckingen, Saarland, Germany (stands for Innensechskantschraube Bauer und Schaurte). (It is still known as an Inbus-key—often misspelled as Imbus-key—in parts of Europe.) In Italy it is known as brugola, after Egidio Brugola, who invented it in 1926. In Sweden it is called insexnyckel (sex being the Swedish word for six). In the other non-English speaking parts of Europe, mainly in Norway, it is usually known as an "Unbrako key" (often misspelled "Umbrako") [1], which is a brand name established in 1911. The brand is owned by SPS Technologies.
(Burgled from Wikipedia and no mention of Alice or who the fuck she is).

[Motu]

Allen is part of the Danaher Group these days.Amongst many other things,the tool brands Danaher own are - Allen,Armstrong,Gearwrench,Holo-Krome,Iseli,K-D Tools,Matco,Sata and Spline Tools.In a Matco cateloge you will find lots of the older tool names...Old Forge,Cornwell etc.

[Ixion]

OK. So who was Mr Phillips the Screwdriver Man ?

And was HE the one screwing Alice ?

[skelstar]

And was HE the one screwing Alice ?
Please, of all the threads I subscribe to lets not let the 'tools thread' turn into another sexual innuendo fest. Think we can do it? <_<

Having said that: nice pun ...

[FROSTY]

As someone who has invested more in my tools than most of you have in your bikes,make that several bikes - I don't really care about quality or brand names anymore.I'm just as happy to earn my living with crap tools - quality is over rated....but if it makes you feel good,go for it.
You good sir are full of shit :devil2: You may not be too worried what the brand is but you have busted too many knuckles to use shit spanners.
-Tell ya what the King Tony socket set I bought a couple of years back is dooing sterling service

[Motu]

Yeah,I've hurt myself far worse doing my job than riding motorcycles.Right now I'm ignoring a knuckle cut to the bone,the hand is locked up and can't make a fist.But I'll ignore it and go to work tomorrow as usual.No woman is going to caress my smooth baby like hands.

King Tony (I know why you bought that socket set) is one of those brands I would be too embarrassed to have in my toolbox.But being too tight to fork out for a 30mm impact - I used one for 6 months on a 1/2 hammer gun to remove quad axle nuts every day....pretty damn good I must admit.China is the new word for quality....

[Steam]

...the hand is locked up and can't make a fist.But I'll ignore it and go to work tomorrow as usual.

WHAT?! That's not the Kiwi way! When I cut my hand last year I got a doctor's certificate and got a week off. THAT is the kiwi way.

Unless you are self-employed.

[F5 Dave]

Here's a tool that is quite useful & cheap. It's a spring puller for those nasty powerful springs either on dirtbike or aftermarket pipes or sidestands etc. Using vice grips works some of the time but when they slip off expect bashed knuckles.

Old spoke with the nipple (schoolgirl laugh) ground to a hook & the other end through a piece of the ever shortening workshop broom.

Of course the other day I noticed motion pro or some crowd make one but this is for free & works very well.

[Motu]

I notice today I have a King Tony 3/8 flex head ratchet - Hard to remember what's in an 11 draw roll cab and top box,plus tools at home.I got the King Tony as a stand in while I tried to get a warranty on my 30 year old SK ratchet.It isn't as fast as the SK,which annoys me,but most annoying is the tell tale Asian non intuitive direction lever.On normal lever action change direction ratchets you move the lever towards the direction you want the ratchet to work - Asian tools have the nasty habit of working the other way.Maybe to some people it is intuitive to move the lever to the ratcheting direction - but it is not standard practice in the tool industry.This is how you tell an Asian ''Crescent'' tools too - they work backwards compared to genuine Crescents and quality copies.That's how I know my Bahco ''crescents'' are NOT made in Sweden,no matter what it says on the tool.

[Ocean1]

This is how you tell an Asian ''Crescent'' tools too - they work backwards compared to genuine Crescents and quality copies.

I've had several arsy boo adjustable "Crescents" over the years, briefly, some of them very good quality. They just feel wrong, especially in awkward positions where you can't see properly, they all ended up being thrown as far as I could manage.

Wee tip: Some bikes have nuts you might want to deal with on the side of the track/road that are quite big. You can carry all the spanners you need, but in some cases it'd be a fair few. You can modify most Crescents by fileing an extra worm groove in the moving jaw, usually some of the extra groove is there anyway. This can mean, say, that a 6" Crescent can open an extra turn and sometimes means you might not need to carry an 8".

[MaxB]

Has anyone mentioned hose clamps? The new types are composite plastic and don't damage the pipe like the old metal ones used to. They are great for tying off brake hoses during a caliper overhaul.

Maybe you can add a speedbleeder to the list too.

[HungusMaximist]

I like to quickly mention if anybody has experience with 'TENG TOOLS' ? ?

They seem to be in the upper market end but way cheaper than those snap on American stuff.

[Motu]

Teng are one of the best ''cheap'' brands,one I'm happy to have in my tool box.My Teng 1/4 drive ratchet is probably the most used tool I own - nearly every cover and small part is held on by 8 or 10mm fasteners,first tool I grab is the 1/4 drive ratchet and long Koken or Cornwell 10mm socket.It's plastic and longer than most 1/4 drives - I dislike my Snap-On 1/4 drive so much it's now in my motorcycle tool kit,I just won't use it at work.

Teng are supposed to be made by Stanley - but the tell tale of their origin is no bold and proud ''Made In *****'' embossed on the tool.And as I mentioned - my Teng ''6in Cresent'' works backwards - duh,at least copy it properly!

[wharfy]

Here's a tool that is quite useful & cheap. It's a spring puller for those nasty powerful springs either on dirtbike or aftermarket pipes or sidestands etc. Using vice grips works some of the time but when they slip off expect bashed knuckles.

Old spoke with the nipple (schoolgirl laugh) ground to a hook & the other end through a piece of the ever shortening workshop broom.

Of course the other day I noticed motion pro or some crowd make one but this is for free & works very well.

Good tip - I need one of those to get my side stand spring off !!!:yes:

I have had a sidechrome socket set for over twenty years - its been used heaps

A workshop manual is a must - If only to scare you into getting a pro to the work

[slopster]

Socket set I'd highly recomend are the repco branded ones. The are not cheap but way cheaper then the big name brands. Their 3/8" drive set was about $380 but I got it at a 50% off sale. I had a couple of mates who swore by them. I've now had it for 5 years hard use and have it hasn't missed a beat. Have done stuff way beyond what you are supposed to do with a 3/8" set. Like put a metre bar on it and use my full weight on that. The rachet switch is backward to most ratchets but that isn't hard to get used to. Highly recomended.

[bobbydazzler]

teng tools are very good for price, also MAC, little bit more than normall but still cheaper than snap on, and just as good. even craftsman tools are good, another american brand, good spanners. but if you what the best i would go for Stahl Willy, they make brillant stuff. almost unbreakable. o and get a welder, you may only use it once for its intendend use, but its fun welding abnormall things to each other :P

o and i have a 1/4 drive ratchetless ratchet, made by britool, is very good in tight spaces, what i mean by ratchetless is that it works by having eliptical cams inside that grip as soon as you move it, "dosnt click". not recommended for anything above 1/4 as i could see it slipping on really tight stuff, but good for small nuts and bolts :)

[xrsam]

I bought a "Teng Tools" socket set about 17 years ago at the start of my apprenticeship and it is bloody good, and i have given it a hiding. Also has the long sockets which are very handy. Infact Mitre10 in Invercargill actually gave me a new case under waranty (the set has lifetime gurantee) when the hinge broke! Its propbably not snapon type quality but perfect mix for me.

[nudedaytona]

Can someone please tell me where I can get a compression gauge from?

[Ixion]

Supercheap.

[BigGuy]

I have 4 Teng Tools Torque Wrenches, the Teng Tools 10 Drawer roller cabinet, 11 piece Teng Tools screw driver set.
I'm certainly no A grade mechanic but I think these things are just great. If I recall correctly, the complete screw driver set cost me a little more than ONE SINGLE snap-on screw driver. :doh:

[Bonez]

A piece of 4x2 timber comes in handy.

[Ixion]

As does a length of 2 inch water pipe.

[Brownstoo]

Where does everyone buy their tools these days? I need to get my hands on some now that I have a bike...

[F5 Dave]

Isn't Fazer spelt with an F?

Most people probably buy from Supercheap. Whether that is an entirely good idea or not is debatable.

Just don't buy an all in one kit, they are usually miserable.

[Wired1]

It's more important what you buy than where you buy it. You can often get good brand stuff like Bahco and Fuller from the mega store or Bunnings and at a better price than 'tool' shops. For a motorbike you want a minimum of a good 3/8" drive socket set, a set of metric spanners (assuming it's a jappa), couple of pairs of pliers and a set of screw drivers. A soft headed hammer is useful too. It all depends on how much you plan to do on your bike but a basic tool kit is not going to cost more than a couple of hundy for reasonable quality and will do all the basic stuff like remove wheels, do oil changes, adjust the handle bars, fit a set of shocks, change a chain etc.

[Brownstoo]

Isn't Fazer spelt with an F?

Not my bike! It came with stickers spelled PHAZER on it.

I kinda know what to buy coz my dad's always had a pretty good kit which I used probably more than he did.

I've had a look at mega and bunnings and at repco a lil but i've never been to an actual tool store so I was just wondering.
I'm also a little lost on the whole brands thing... I know the ridiculous ones like sidchrome and snap-on, but I'm not that rich...So bahco and fuller you say? What about teng? I've never seen teng in any stores so that's sorta where my first question came from.

Oh and I do plan to do mostly everything possible that needs to be done.

[F5 Dave]

Sidchrome aren't flash. Teng seem to be ok, can be bought at places like engineering supplies. Specific tool shops can be intimidating as often they don't have price stickers which is tantamount to barstardry but can be a good source for specialised tools, or specials. Not the cheapest usually.


Hey you're right -I googled both Fazer & Phazer, never took that much notice.

[Brownstoo]

They aren't? My bad lol.
I think I'll go have a look at mega or something tomorrow and see if I can pick up some stuff that feels solid.

Yeah I think the Fazer is a snowmobile or something

[sinned]

If you don't want to do any maintenance - and leave that to the bike shop there is one item you still should buy. A high quality set of Allen keys approx $35.

The cheap stuff, including those in the bike tool kit, are designed to twist or break before they move the screw. When you have purchased the quality item go around the main screws on the bike loosen and then retighten so you can get them undone in the future. The main screws being those that hold the seat on and maybe the petrol tank down.

From here onwards leave the rest to the bike shop. Except after the service re tension the Allen screws so that when you need to lift the seat while somewhere on the side of the road the tools will do the job.

[avgas]

tape and cables ties
holds the universe together

[Brownstoo]

If you don't want to do any maintenance - and leave that to the bike shop there is one item you still should buy. A high quality set of Allen keys approx $35.

I've got a set of those already! And to remove my seat all you need is the bike key, kinda handy sometimes. I want to do my own maintenance because I like knowing what's going on, and from my experience with mechanics for cars it's usually best, and also a shiteload cheaper, to sort it out myself.

[sinned]

I've got a set of those already! And to remove my seat all you need is the bike key, kinda handy sometimes..
Bike Key removes the pillon and Allen key for rider seat where the battery is. Different bikes - different systems and challenges.

[Supertwin Don]

I am currently looking at relocating back to NZ from UK - I have in my garage/workshop things like
Lathe / mill-drill 200mm throw,750mm bed
6" bench grinder
19mm pillar drill (floor mount)
assorted older electric drills
small compressor
bike lift
assorted air tools
MIG welder 150amp
Oxy Acet gauges etc

Question - is it worth bringing them with me, or should I sell up and buy new?

Some NZ web sites for tools would be useful for comparisons.

Thanks.

[Ixion]

Lathe would be worth bringing IF you have spare container space

Bike lift, maybe and drill

Small stuff is reasonably priced and available in NZ.

EDIT . Removed warning about voltage. I saw California and assumed USA. NZ and UK is same volts.

[Motu]

What brands are your stuff? You can replace it all with Chinese stuff for a reasonable price over here - but if your stuff is real quality,I'd bring it with me.

[Ixion]

Actually, one factor outweighs everything else.

If you bring the stuff (all of it) with you, when you get here you've got it. Set it up, and you've got the workshop you had back in the UK. No arguments , no questions .

But -- if you selll it up in the UK, come out thinking you'll replace it - well, WILL you? Or, given that there are always far more expenses than expected when doing such a move , will your wife/girlfriend/boyfriend/partner/goat (either present or one you acquire here) put the nix on spending money on what she/he/it thinks is non important? So it either DOESN'T get replaced , or it does but at the cost of marital/goatly disharmoney and arguments and unpleasantness.

Known a good few folk fall into that trap.

[Supertwin Don]

At the moment, her indoors dosen't really appreciate the space that 3 bikes plus all the workshop gear will take up!
None of the gear is particularly of high quality - really just suitable for what I've been doing.
I agree, if I sell off here, I probably won't be willing/able to replace it all up front - not withstanding her plans for when we get back!
We're looking at a 20' container - anybody done similar recently?

[geoffm]

I am currently looking at relocating back to NZ from UK - I have in my garage/workshop things like
Lathe / mill-drill 200mm throw,750mm bed
6" bench grinder
19mm pillar drill (floor mount)
assorted older electric drills
small compressor
bike lift
assorted air tools
MIG welder 150amp
Oxy Acet gauges etc

Question - is it worth bringing them with me, or should I sell up and buy new?

Some NZ web sites for tools would be useful for comparisons.

Thanks.

Try http://www.chevpac.co.nz
http://www.machineryhouse.co.nz
for tool price comparisons.
Like other posters, I would bring whatever you can with you as it is always hard to replace and costs more than you think once it is gone.

[Ixion]

At the moment, her indoors dosen't really appreciate the space that 3 bikes plus all the workshop gear will take up!
None of the gear is particularly of high quality - really just suitable for what I've been doing.
I agree, if I sell off here, I probably won't be willing/able to replace it all up front - not withstanding her plans for when we get back!
We're looking at a 20' container - anybody done similar recently?


A 20' container should be a good size for 3 bikes + workshop gear. Might even be able to pack a bit of other stuff around the bikes to serve as padding.

[Supertwin Don]

A 20' container should be a good size for 3 bikes + workshop gear. Might even be able to pack a bit of other stuff around the bikes to serve as padding.

Do I detect a slight note of cynicism / sarcasm in there - her indoors wants to take lounge suite / couple of semi antique items / cat etc !!!:whistle:

[Motu]

A 20' container for everything? Or a 20' container for your workshop? That's the main reason I've never moved overseas,I'd never be able to take all my stuff.Shifting house is bad enough,more distance is more problems.I needed to put up a 6x12 shed to shift in here....and the cars stay outside.

[Ixion]

Do I detect a slight note of cynicism / sarcasm in there - her indoors wants to take lounge suite / couple of semi antique items / cat etc !!!:whistle:

She's planning to ship the cat in a container ? Call the RSPCA! Or do you mena a caterpiller bulldozer. That would be cool.

[Ixion]

A 20' container for everything? Or a 20' container for your workshop? That's the main reason I've never moved overseas,I'd never be able to take all my stuff.Shifting house is bad enough,more distance is more problems.I needed to put up a 6x12 shed to shift in here....and the cars stay outside.


That's metres, by the way. Not feet.

[Supertwin Don]

living in the UK means that I have had to learn to have only what I need - not what I would like!
I had to get rid / leave a couple of sheds full of stuff last time I moved from NZ to UK, so I know where you're coming from.

[Dodgyiti]

Take as much as you can Don, tools and equipment will be last on your list when you get here as they are only essentials when something gives out. Things like lathes and mills- if you know they are good and your happy to use them for what you need then keep em. Especially if they have all the attachments and tooling you commonly use- those bits can really add up and are frustrating if you don't have them.

[usa-vtwin]

You only need two tools: WD-40 and Duct Tape. If it doesn't
move and should, use the WD-40. If it shouldn't move and does, use
the duct tape

[Supertwin Don]

Unfortunately, those of us with big v-twins need a third tool - a big hammer!!!:niceone:

[SARGE]

gosh .. wish we had a resident tool-guy so we knew where to get all that stuff....

oh... wait ..:Oops:

[F5 Dave]

What a crass & blatant plug. Bet they don't do self powered timing lights (better for race bikes without 12v or other bikes that it is a pain to get to the battery).

. . . erm, oh they do, actually it isn't a bad site.

hmm, can't spring for the rinky dinky one, wonder if the budget one is ok.

Ahh see! - they don't have a midrange priced one.:angry: (can't please some people huh?).

[actungbaby]

[QUOTE=F5 Dave;1412460]Ok so you own one of these motorcycle thingies & it has occurred to you that sometimes they need maintenance, repairs or adjustments in the workshop.
(I’m not intending for this to become a ‘what should I carry’ thread)

What does one do about tools?

a) Rely on the toolkit (unless it was 2nd hand & therefore stolen by the last owner) as this is what the manufacturer specified & using unbranded tools may invalidate the warranty?
b) Empty the coffers & tell the Snap-on man to just come & deliver the whole cattledog job-lot?

I happened to buy motorbike of snapon man in wellington nice guy to showed me his truck its got like 10 ton of gear amazing set up.

he told me they sell diffrent brand which suit me more as snapon really for professinal mechanic .

he showed me socket set looked like good place to start was like 200.00 .

Id say for me impact driver set been god send on older bikes esp when used those nasty philips screws on early honda engine

Covers. but even my 90,s vfr750 bloody handy for clutch brake fulid covers so you dont damage the heads at all, just little tap of the hammer to just crack tread free.

ring spanners always better so you not so likely to round bolt heads , can crc so u can free up parts b4 you try undo them

Silickon rtv very good to use to seal gaskets very good product.

[Edbear]

I am a distributor for Sulco Tools, and have been thinking about posting their monthly flyers. Is this the right place?

Anything you see on their website I can get for you, probably at a somewhat lower price than if you approached them directly.

Here are the latest...

http://www.sulco.co.nz/monthly_specials/monthly_specials.pdf
http://www.sulco.co.nz/monthly_specials/ms_equip.pdf

Let me know if there is anything you need and I'll see if I can get it cheaper for you.

[F5 Dave]

Ahh so you're the new Sarge (for older KB pundits). Oh hold on he's even on this thread history.


Anyways further up I've lambasted blowform plastic all in one toolkits that one sees & are invariably Shite. At a trail ride the other day I had to borrow some tools & the chap next to me had a Bahco socket & spanner set he took to rides (had his own tools for job as Mechanic).

I'd make an exception for these. You can sometimes find them at M10 on special & while not 'cheap' are good value for money & I'd happily add them to my racekit if I had the spare. They are 1/2" & some people don't seem to like that, but I love 'em & of course the length of the lever determines leverage, nothing else.

[Ocean1]

Anyways further up I've lambasted blowform plastic all in one toolkits that one sees & are invariably Shite. At a trail ride the other day I had to borrow some tools & the chap next to me had a Bahco socket & spanner set he took to rides (had his own tools for job as Mechanic).

I'd make an exception for these. You can sometimes find them at M10 on special & while not 'cheap' are good value for money & I'd happily add them to my racekit if I had the spare. They are 1/2" & some people don't seem to like that, but I love 'em & of course the length of the lever determines leverage, nothing else.

I use them every day, not only good value for the money, just straight good value. Couple of minor idiosyncrasies, the case latches are shit and I don’t like the single 19mm/3/4” socket, but the material quality is better than most kit twice the price.

[F5 Dave]

Ok act fast, just saw these same sets in m10 down from $370 to $150.

[granstar]

A beer bottle opener ...seriously, you need to take a step back now and again, re-look at that wiring diagram, chew the fat with knowledgeable mates about the problem on hand over a beer ( can't do that with wine).:done:

[unstuck]

Ok act fast, just saw these same sets in m10 down from $370 to $150.

WOW..:shit: That is an awesome price, really good travelling tool kit.:2thumbsup

[F5 Dave]

heck it'd be a fair way to start a home kit. Much better than the Stanley kit offered alongside in same sale. Stanley sure isn't what it used to be as a brand.

[Pumba]

Must be a local thing as after reading your post I heve been to both the local M10 and no such special was on offer. Which is a right pain in the arse as i am in need of some new tools for my race kit.

[Ocean1]

Must be a local thing as after reading your post I heve been to both the local M10 and no such special was on offer. Which is a right pain in the arse as i am in need of some new tools for my race kit.

I called in to Lower Hutt M10 yesterday to pick up another one and the price there was $190 odd. I bought one anyway.

[unstuck]

I called in to Lower Hutt M10 yesterday to pick up another one and the price there was $190 odd. I bought one anyway.

I still think that is worth it, I payed $240 for my set about 4yrs ago and I am very happy with it.:yes:

[Ocean1]

I still think that is worth it, I payed $240 for my set about 4yrs ago and I am very happy with it.:yes:

I agree. My old set was getting slightly grubby...

[F5 Dave]

Strange, I happened to be in the Lower hutt branch at lunch today & they had moved them from the entry to the normal place & 81 piece was $158.

Would be better if totally metric but there you go, a good deal I'd snatch if I wasn't scratching for a few other things currently.

They are super good at returning things if one changes one's mind. I got a difference refund on a trampoline 3 weeks after I bought it as it went down in price $100. Best check it is the same kit, there may be many types that are similar.

[F5 Dave]

Crumbs I sound like a salesperson but supercheap have deal on compressor for $ 120 with free airline. 20l tank. Must buy one, no idea on this brand but I've had 3 only killed 1 by being silly. 20 l isn't big enough to spray but will do most else.

[unstuck]

Bought myself a 20 piece Teng socket set today for $90, usually $180.:woohoo::woohoo:
Good quality tools by the look of them too, never had Teng before but heard some good stuff about them. Will be a good size to go in my daypack.

283975

[F5 Dave]

One with the funny face dude. Look good but perhaps no 8mm.

[F5 Dave]

Well here we go. Bunnings were selling Baeco socket sets. So I succumbed. 38 peice metric in my favored 1/2" 6 sided for $60. Crazy.

People say that 1/2" is too big but they don't understand leverage.

[unstuck]

Well here we go. Bunnings were selling Baeco socket sets. So I succumbed. 38 peice metric in my favored 1/2" 6 sided for $60. Crazy.

People say that 1/2" is too big but they don't understand leverage.

Sounds like a good deal.:2thumbsup

[F5 Dave]

Yeah a friend had txtd me, I explained I didn't have any spare but she told me the price &, well I couldn't resist inventing a reason to take the kids out & then had to return with one. Will be ideal to take to the races so I don't have to load my garage set loosely into a toolbox. Time will tell if the end up becoming my garage set, but I love my old set.

I might take out the queer sizes & put tape on them or something & glue them back in the kit. I can always wrench them out if I get the call to work on some bogus Italian bike & that will be my penance, but at least at a glance I can see what is missing & am not always reaching for the 11mm by mistake.

all my 13s spanners & sockets have black heatshrink or tape. I keep a blue 15 for the one odd bolt on me GasGas shock linkage.

[Dodgy]

Just been and picked up a 38 piece 3/8 set for $65

Good times

[F5 Dave]

Glad that worked out Si

Used mine night before & its nice enough, seems good & tight on the bolts. Got to get used to pushing the socket release button, but that won't take long.

[Fast Eddie]

Don't be a dutch jew

Snap-on, Koken, Bahco

chur

[sketch]

i got one them 200 odd dollar bahco kits..... dont find i need much else

[Fast Eddie]

i got one them 200 odd dollar bahco kits..... dont find i need much else

yea they go really well
I use my bahco sockets ratchets and spanners every day.. they go hard... 8/9 years old now my stuff. And if you lose a piece from the kit you can order individual bits. Lost a philips head bit or something, was about 10 bucks.

[Madness]

Crumbs I sound like a salesperson but supercheap have deal on compressor for $ 120 with free airline. 20l tank. Must buy one, no idea on this brand but I've had 3 only killed 1 by being silly. 20 l isn't big enough to spray but will do most else.

Tank capacity has fuck all to do with capability when selecting an air compressor. It's all about free air delivery or displacement (CFM).

[pete-blen]

Tank capacity has fuck all to do with capability when selecting an air compressor. It's all about free air delivery or displacement (CFM).

totaly correct.... it's all about how fast the pump can fill that tank...

[Ocean1]

Tank capacity has fuck all to do with capability when selecting an air compressor. It's all about free air delivery or displacement (CFM).

So, if you've got an air tool that intermittently uses 20cfm you'd buy a 3 phase 20cfm compressor, eh?

[Madness]

So, if you've got an air tool that intermittently uses 20cfm you'd buy a 3 phase 20cfm compressor, eh?

Yeah, especially if that air tool is a percussive type tool like a riveter or a nailgun.

Cock.

[unstuck]

We talking piston, diaphram, or screw compressors? I would go the screw any day.:Punk::Punk:

[F5 Dave]

Tank capacity has fuck all to do with capability when selecting an air compressor. It's all about free air delivery or displacement (CFM).

This thread is about being a resource of ideas for home tinkerers, if you're here to prove how smart you are, the rest of the Internet is waiting your expertise.

A tank is merely a buffer sure but let's keep the limitless wallet arguments out of this. Fact is most people don't have a compressor so my point is to suggest a little outlay can step up a new level.

A 20l size is a good starting size, heck I often just run off what's in the tank for most simple tasks without starting it. My 60l takes longer to refill. Must try find the tiny leaks.

[Madness]

A tank is merely a buffer sure but let's keep the limitless wallet arguments out of this. Fact is most people don't have a compressor so my point is to suggest a little outlay can step up a new level.

A 20l size is a good starting size, heck I often just run off what's in the tank for most simple tasks without starting it. My 60l takes longer to refill. Must try find the tiny leaks.

A tank is a buffer but it's not by itself capable of maintaining a constant pressure (of any significance) without a big enough pump to keep up.

Your reference to spraying prompted me to post. 20lt is insufficient to spray paint, as is 40lt or 60lt if you don't have the free air delivery behind it. I've sold a fair few compressors over the years to people who already had a 20lt "cheapie" because they thought 20lt was "heaps to paint the car, bro".

[F5 Dave]

So my original statement stands, go buy a 20l cheaply and get to do lots of stuff, just don't expect to spray with it. It's the right amount of info for a beginner with a small budget. They don't need a belt drive hooer. I had mine 3 years before I decided to unpackage it as the 20l did all I needed, just the die grinder if used in anger needed more.

[unstuck]

I tried painting my shed with zinc power pylon paint with my little 20 ltr compressor, gave it a really good textured look. I think most home handy men would get along fine with a small compressor, as long as you dont over work them and cook the oil. One thing I would recomend if buying a cheapie from repco or supercheap or whatever, is spend a little extra money for some decent fittings and a length of decent hose.:yes:

[pete-blen]

We talking piston, diaphram, or screw compressors? I would go the screw any day.:Punk::Punk:

when was the last time yer seen a home handy man screw compressor.... links would be nice...

[Ocean1]

when was the last time yer seen a home handy man screw compressor.... links would be nice...

Kaeser do a 3hp screw, and several other manufacturers do 5hp jobs.

They're still full blown industrial quality machines though, they'd set you back at least $3k.

Edit: found this looking for little screws. http://www.elgi.com/2.html

[unstuck]

when was the last time yer seen a home handy man screw compressor.... links would be nice...

About an hour ago. I have a trailered XA 96, 185cfm Atlas Copco that I used for sandblasting and thrust boring, but now just gets used as a storage space. Not your average home workshop item though, I admit.;)

P.S. you can get some really cool smaller screw compressors nowadays. 75cfm for the home handy person is pretty good.

[Allan115]

Try this company, huge online web store. I have bought from there and great service. Nearly everything you need. www.qualitytools.co.nz

[rian]

I have been getting a lot of parts and hand tools off amazon lately, they have some crazy cheap deals on quality tools.
Not all tools ship to nz though, you can set up a you post acc with nz post to get around that though.

[F5 Dave]

Had to post this for your reading pleasure.

[tillockwatson]

Ok so you own one of these motorcycle thingies & it has occurred to you that sometimes they need maintenance, repairs or adjustments in the workshop.
(I’m not intending for this to become a ‘what should I carry’ thread)

What does one do about tools?

a) Rely on the toolkit (unless it was 2nd hand & therefore stolen by the last owner) as this is what the manufacturer specified & using unbranded tools may invalidate the warranty?
b) Empty the coffers & tell the Snap-on man to just come & deliver the whole cattledog job-lot?
c) Buy one of those every-tool-included suitcase from Supercheap or similar?
d) None of the above

OK so for the workshop you are setting up you will probably be on a budget, after all you just spent most of your wedge on buying the bike. But if you decide that you’d like to perform more maintenance yourself then you will need the proper tools or you will cause more damage than you are trying to save by taking it to the shop.

Ok we’ll start with option a) these tools are the cheapest bidders the manufacturers could find that an owner could remove some parts of the motorcycle at least once without causing too much damage to cause a rash of warranty claims. Nasty.
b) Are you a professional mechanic? No didn’t think so.
c) These kits are made by the companies rejected in a) for being too low quality. Avoid like the plague.

So d) it is.

Maybe if I start with a bit of a list, people can poke holes in it & I can edit the main list at the start of the thread.

I’m going to start with the theory that most motorcyclists are typically cheapskates and will buy on price. To some extent one has to proceed with caution. One might not need all these tools if this is just a passing fad. But generally there’s no tool so expensive as one that damages what you are trying to fix & then needs replacing with progressively more expensive tools.

So what we are looking for are ‘fit for purpose’ good value tools.

I am often amazed at what people try to get by with & the absolute rubbish that come as suitcase kits.

Maybe 2 lists; bare minimum & nice to have.





Ok Bare Minimum

Hammer Ideally large ball peen hammer, but can make do with a woodwork claw if you already have one.
Rubber Mallet Cheap & will save axle threads when you are tempted to bash with hammer or other tool
Screwdrivers Both Flatblade & Crosshead. Several sizes of each. Cheap ones will let you down. Push when using cross head. Screwdrivers are not levers, never use them as such.
Cheap flatblade screwdrivers These are in fact sacrificial chisels & levers. You’re going to do it so have some specifically for it & never use for other purposes. Obviously don’t try to lever things that will be damaged, like ally sidecovers.
Allen keys Don’t buy that rubbish on a spring set. By a proper set of ½ doz metric in a row holder
Impact driver Blue box type from Ripco will be fine.
Pliers Fine nose & sturdy type. Some linesman cutters as well
Circlip pliers One of those combination internal/external sets will suffice, even if they make you learn some new swear words
Spanners Metric as a set is more economical, 8, 10, 12, 13, 14, 17, 19mm at a min
Socket set As above. I prefer ½” drive as they are more sturdy, Many prefer 1/4 drive; preference. This is probably the bigger ticket item as a set. Save money & frustration, you will never need an imperial mixed set. It would be nice to get some larger sizes as well, 22, 24, 27, 30 for instance. Spark plug sockets to fit your bike may be nice. Pick carefully.
Big Cresent Wrench These make fabulous benders. Not so hot on nuts & bolts. Be very careful.
Vice Larger the better, but can be cheap. Large coachbolts & mount to a bench or anything
Drill Many bargains about are ok, beware too cheap drill bits.
Hack saw
Files
Kneepads or some carpet
Rags Do you really wear that BonJovi T anymore?
Pad For writing down those parts required
Hand cleaner Washing powder at a push

The nice to have list/buy as required list

Tool box Forget the million dollar one, a couple of big plastic ones are ok, but if can set up a board close to the work area with some screws & pencil some outlines. This will save hours of rooting around. Really.
Workbench Something sturdy to work on, build or 2nd hand
Bike bench Something sturdy to work on, build or 2nd hand, about 400 high. Need plank to load & a paddock stand or tiedowns etc to secure.
Seat Cut down a seat if no bike bench.
Torque wrench Don’t buy one too large, say around the 2-40NM range is where you will be using it most.
Flywheel puller Useful on 2 stroke dirtbikes etc Only a few different types
T Bars Cross head screwdriver & 8/10/12mm socket will make life in the garage more joyous. As will a T bar allen set (surprisingly the $20 supercheap one is good). Won’t fit in all places so still need std set.
Long wrecking bar Life is nice when you have some leverage. An ~800mm long fixed bar for your sockets will be valuable. Don’t try to use one of those cheapo torque wrenches, the bending makes them useless.
Compressor Really they are so cheap & blowing out carbs & pumping tyres will make you wonder how you did without one. It’s at this stage where a slightly bigger one will drive an impact wrench better, but you can get by with a small one most of the time. No you can't spray with it. Need a really big one.
Impact Wrench Don’t use to do nuts up with, but great for shocking nuts off.
Decent Circlip pliers for external & internal.
Drill press Small ok, mounted & get a mini vice for holding work
Bench Grinder One side for grinding steel, the other fit a wire brush. Beware of where things that slip out of hands will get flung at 100mph (grinders were never metricised so only fling things at 100mph). Mount as far away from bike or car, ideally near the messy drill/vice area.
Verniers Digital are easiest but mech will suffice.
Mulitimeter Dick Smith will provide a cheapo one for $20. Read the manual & you will work out how to use one or just experiment & look on the web.
Soldering Iron & solder & heatshrink
Torch Small but powerful

additions While suggested or I think of it:
Vice grips Used with care can be valuable.
Vice grip with a chain Great for holding flywheels etc.
In Hex Sockets
Needle nose vice grips
Ratchet spanners
Poly (multi) grips large Use with caution

thank you for suggestion

[F5 Dave]

Golly keep forgetting about this thread. Just read it from start to finish for old times sake.

[Bonez]

I usually use a spare wheel axle as a rotor/flywheel puller. Tighten the axle up as tight as you can get then give the hex end a good wollop with a club hammer. Cover the end of the axle with a bit of wood if you don't want the hex end damaged.

[pete376403]

Didn't read the whole thread but did do a search and the term JIS, as in Japanese Industry Standard, doesn't seem to appear. Philips screw drivers will root a JIS screw, no questions asked. Older Japanese bikes were JIS all over - look for the little dot on the screw head near the + slot. More modern bikes seem to be put together with either small external hex head screws or socket head screws.

Favourite place to find buggered JIS screws would be carburetors, float bowl screws and diaphragm cover screws.

https://www.amazon.com/Hozan-JIS-4-JIS-Screwdriver-3rd/dp/B00A7WAHTU#:~:text=JIS%20%2D%20or%20Japanese%20Ind ustry%20Standard,all%2C%20but%20a%20JIS%20screw.

[george formby]

Didn't read the whole thread but did do a search and the term JIS, as in Japanese Industry Standard, doesn't seem to appear. Philips screw drivers will root a JIS screw, no questions asked. Older Japanese bikes were JIS all over - look for the little dot on the screw head near the + slot. More modern bikes seem to be put together with either small external hex head screws or socket head screws.

Favourite place to find buggered JIS screws would be carburetors, float bowl screws and diaphragm cover screws.

https://www.amazon.com/Hozan-JIS-4-JIS-Screwdriver-3rd/dp/B00A7WAHTU#:~:text=JIS%20%2D%20or%20Japanese%20Ind ustry%20Standard,all%2C%20but%20a%20JIS%20screw.

That is so, so true.

[F5 Dave]

When I wrote the thread I knew not of such a standard.

I am since a convert and have bits for my Bahco rachet screwdriver and also std Vessel JIS in size 1 and 2 bought off ebay.

I always thought my favourite T handle Daytona cross head was good. A mate put me onto it when he was with the importer. Of course its Japanese. . .

I have a feeling some impact screwdrivers use them too as they don't cam out like Philips.


But to be fair you can muddle along with local stuff if you push, like I advised all those years ago.

As such I would highly recommend them but expect most layperson to get going without them.

Until they progress to the next level. :love: tool love.

[Bonez]

Didn't read the whole thread but did do a search and the term JIS, as in Japanese Industry Standard, doesn't seem to appear. Philips screw drivers will root a JIS screw, no questions asked. Older Japanese bikes were JIS all over - look for the little dot on the screw head near the + slot. More modern bikes seem to be put together with either small external hex head screws or socket head screws.

Favourite place to find buggered JIS screws would be carburetors, float bowl screws and diaphragm cover screws.

https://www.amazon.com/Hozan-JIS-4-JIS-Screwdriver-3rd/dp/B00A7WAHTU#:~:text=JIS%20%2D%20or%20Japanese%20Ind ustry%20Standard,all%2C%20but%20a%20JIS%20screw.No .4 impact driver bit and a smack on the driver works for me. Then use a normal No. 4 philllips screw driver to remove them the rest of the way.

[pete376403]

No.4 impact driver bit and a smack on the driver works for me. Then use a normal No. 4 philllips screw driver to remove them the rest of the way.

Yup, as Dave says, impact driver bits are JIS.
Obscure fact - Philips is DESIGNED to cam out of the screw at a certain torque, to prevent damage to parts from overtightening when assembling (as in the factory where the widget is built) What happens after that is is someone elses problem.

[Bonez]

Yup, as Dave says, impact driver bits are JIS.
Obscure fact - Philips is DESIGNED to cam out of the screw at a certain torque, to prevent damage to parts from overtightening when assembling (as in the factory where the widget is built) What happens after that is is someone elses problem.Usually after they have been undone in the y I desribe its generally easy to use aphillips no. 4 screw driver from then on I've found. I undo the float bowls on my '76 CB550F in situe using a small ring spanner and 50mm no.4 phillips bit used in my battery drill. Easy as.

[F5 Dave]

Tools are not much use if you cant wield them with skill.

Take today's repair on the bed my 9yr old thinks is a trampoline. Broken steel frame light gauge steel. Using some strategically placed blocks of wood I straighten the cross members like a Boss:Punk:.


Then I proceed to make the worst welds in Christendom.

I really need a lesson. I suck.
Should hold together for a while but. . .

[Bonez]

Tools are not much use if you cant wield them with skill.

Take today's repair on the bed my 9yr old thinks is a trampoline. Broken steel frame light gauge steel. Using some strategically placed blocks of wood I straighten the cross members like a Boss:Punk:.


Then I proceed to make the worst welds in Christendom.

I really need a lesson. I suck.
Should hold together for a while but. . . Arch or mig? Most Tech colleges run night courses on welding.

[F5 Dave]

Mig. Not any more . Only interested in Get a job training courses where people are keen to take a loan.

My biggest issue is with painted joins, clean up takes a while and I'm thoroughly impatient. Despite several minutes with dremel.

[Bonez]

Mig. Not any more . Only interested in Get a job training courses where people are keen to take a loan.

My biggest issue is with painted joins, clean up takes a while and I'm thoroughly impatient. Despite several minutes with dremel.
Use angle grinder next time. A welders best friend.

[F5 Dave]

No access, was the first thing I was to grab for, I have a couple so cutoff wheel on one, grinder on the other. Must pick up a 3rd for flapper wheel.

Anyway this thread should stay a bit on topic, sorry for the distraction.

[Bonez]

No access, was the first thing I was to grab for, I have a couple so cutoff wheel on one, grinder on the other. Must pick up a 3rd for flapper wheel.

Anyway this thread should stay a bit on topic, sorry for the distraction.It's KB so nothing unusual.:innocent: