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View Full Version : lowering an r6 ????



R6chick
9th February 2008, 13:52
i have a 2000 YZF-R6 that I need to Lower the seat height on.
any ideas of what I can do that won't affect the handling too much??

onearmedbandit
9th February 2008, 14:04
Not sure how much 'give' there is in the factory seat but you could get it reupholstered to give a lower seat height. Failing that you can get suspension links that lower the bikes height at the rear (dog bones) and then lower the front as well to keep the bike at its original stance. Doing this will however lower the bikes overall height so just bear that in mind (ground clearance issues).

MotoGirl
9th February 2008, 14:26
i have a 2000 YZF-R6 that I need to Lower the seat height on.
any ideas of what I can do that won't affect the handling too much??

How much do you need to lower the bike by?

Like OAB said, reducing the foam in your seat is one option but whether this is a viable option will depend on how much you need to lower the bike. You can normally gain 1-2 inches by changing the seat; however, this depends on how much foam is in the seat to begin with. I took foam out of the RSVR seat and it didn't make much difference between there was almost nothing to start with.

Dog bones (also known as lowering links) are another option and I've found some that would lower your bike by about 1.5 inches. These do affect your bike's handling but whether you notice it will depend on what sort of rider you are. You'll need to drop the front forks through the triple clamp to compensate for it. I had lowering links on my GSX-R1000 (down 1.5 inches) and never even noticed them because I was a chicken at the time. Don't use lowering links to gain 3 inches because this is what they use for drag bikes (we did this on our old 'busa and it had NO ground clearance). Lowering links normally cost about $300 including fitting.

Edit: Failing that, contact Robert Taylor (http://www.kiwibiker.co.nz/forums/member.php?u=12047) and put an Ohlins shock into your bike. This is the expensive option but money well spent! It will improve your handling too! See this thread (http://www.kiwibiker.co.nz/forums/showthread.php?p=1367912#post1367912) about what I did to my RSVR.

R6_kid
9th February 2008, 14:39
Dog bones (also known as lowering links) are another option and I've found some that would lower your bike by about 1.5 inches. These do affect your bike's handling but whether you notice it will depend on what sort of rider you are. You'll need to drop the front forks through the triple clamp to compensate for it. I had lowering links on my GSX-R1000 (down 1.5 inches) and never even noticed them because I was a chicken at the time. Don't use lowering links to gain 3 inches because this is what they use for drag bikes (we did this on our old 'busa and it had NO ground clearance). Lowering links normally cost about $300 including fitting.


WTF... you got ripped off!

Check on ebay. You can usually get 1inch lowering links for the rear for around $50-70NZD shipped. Installation can be done for free if you know someone handy with a spanner.

I lowered the front on my R6 by 10mm to get quicker steering... not recommeneded to be done without a steering damper! But as you are lowering both front and rear you should be fine.

One thing to keep in mind is that your side stand will probably be too long, so get a second hand one from ebay and get it shortened - probably cost you around $50 all up, if that.

Also ground clearance may become and issue.

The R6 does have a relatively plush seat so losing some foam may sort your problem - i'd suggest getting a second one to use just incase you don't like the result - again, check on ebay.

MotoGirl
9th February 2008, 14:48
WTF... you got ripped off!
Check on ebay. You can usually get 1inch lowering links for the rear for around $50-70NZD shipped. Installation can be done for free if you know someone handy with a spanner.


That's for someone paying us to import and install them! Different prices for different bikes. We've never found any for less than about $100NZD (and we've lowered multiple bikes). I've found a set for an '00 R6 for $96 USD including shipping.

Goblin
9th February 2008, 15:29
That's for someone paying us to import and install them!You get PAID to import and install stuff???:confused: How does one get onto this caper?:shifty:

R6chick
9th February 2008, 17:45
Wow, Thank You all so much for your info!!!
much appreciated!!
I think I will try taking foam off the seat first and see how it goes.
It sux having ducks disease (arse to close 2 ground)

Thanks again for your help!!

Her_C4
9th February 2008, 18:01
Alternatively you could consider milling the tie rod out a fraction and get higher boots... (still lowering the front through the triple clamps) :yes:

Check out these pic's.http://www.kiwibiker.co.nz/forums/showpost.php?p=1201008&postcount=58

Fatjim
9th February 2008, 18:23
Aren't south island roads lower than north island roads? If so, why do you need to lower your r6?

R6chick
9th February 2008, 18:35
Alternatively you could consider milling the tie rod out a fraction and get higher boots... (still lowering the front through the triple clamps) :yes:

Check out these pic's.http://www.kiwibiker.co.nz/forums/showpost.php?p=1201008&postcount=58
Just a question with the boots, did you find it difficult to use the brake/gear lever???

Her_C4
9th February 2008, 18:56
Just a question with the boots, did you find it difficult to use the brake/gear lever???

I did at first, but once the levers had been adjusted to accommodate the change and I got a 'feel' for them it was pretty much ok. ;)

I have had enhanced soles ever since I started riding in one form or another so it is nothing new to me really - just more of the same for my latest bike. :whistle:

It has been suggested to me that I drill a circle out of the sole down to about an 1/8th of an inch from the actual sole. This piece of sole would then move against my foot and give me the feedback that is missing from using the brake lever, however given that I ride with my toes on the pegs, and generally only use the back brake at the same time as the front, I haven't found it too much of an issue. (Back brakes on the Ducati's are generally not the best! :crazy:)

Robert Taylor
9th February 2008, 19:05
Wow, Thank You all so much for your info!!!
much appreciated!!
I think I will try taking foam off the seat first and see how it goes.
It sux having ducks disease (arse to close 2 ground)

Thanks again for your help!!

This whole lowering link thing is a mixed bag of lollies, I have seen links fitted that reposition the overall linkage to such a position that there is a ''dead'' area of movement. The mostly CORRECT way is to pull the shock apart and fit internal spacers. Just fitting lowering links is acting blind unless you are prepared to map the shock shaft distance moved against rear wheel distance before and after. ( In fairness some links may actually improve the linkage curve within the shorter travel effected )
Too often people go for the simple solution with too little appreciation about what they are messing with. Its not a given either that companies peddling these links ''have the best interests of their customers at heart''

onearmedbandit
10th February 2008, 09:56
Thanks for providing an insiders view to this Robert.

babyblade250rr
10th February 2008, 10:08
I lowered my 07 R6 about an inch got some lowering links off Raj (YamahaR64Life) had them fitted from a bike shop for $20 they are two dog bone looking aluminium links with three holes for different heights, once that was completed as someone had said side stand was alittle too long causing the bike to stand vertical, so for the time being had to park in ditches and holes i.e: drain grates and manholes lol, found an engineering firm that could weld cast aluminium, the guy shorten my stand by 1.5" for a total cost of a dozen beers problem solved.

Had Gav HDTBOY fine tune my suspension and before ya know back to normal

R6_kid
10th February 2008, 10:11
That Robert Taylor dude is worth listening to, or say they say... (send him a PM)

R6chick
10th February 2008, 12:19
This whole lowering link thing is a mixed bag of lollies, I have seen links fitted that reposition the overall linkage to such a position that there is a ''dead'' area of movement. The mostly CORRECT way is to pull the shock apart and fit internal spacers. Just fitting lowering links is acting blind unless you are prepared to map the shock shaft distance moved against rear wheel distance before and after. ( In fairness some links may actually improve the linkage curve within the shorter travel effected )
Too often people go for the simple solution with too little appreciation about what they are messing with. Its not a given either that companies peddling these links ''have the best interests of their customers at heart''

Ok, so this sounds like an expensive problem.... :weep:

I just checked out all the spring Preload and compression/rebound damping settings (forks and rear shock) and it looks like it has been set up for a 1000kg gorilla. Every setting is as its maximum (hardest) setting.
If I set these to maybe a bit softer than Standard, will this make the bike "sit" lower with my weight on it??

k14
10th February 2008, 12:25
Ok, so this sounds like an expensive problem.... :weep:

I just checked out all the spring Preload and compression/rebound damping settings (forks and rear shock) and it looks like it has been set up for a 1000kg gorilla. Every setting is as its maximum (hardest) setting.
If I set these to maybe a bit softer than Standard, will this make the bike "sit" lower with my weight on it??
Maybe... If you get the static sag etc set properly you may find you have an extra 10-15mm to play with. If the settings are how you say they are then currently you will be running little or no static sag??

DEATH_INC.
10th February 2008, 12:38
The other thing to take into account is how much ya weigh, new softer springs will bring the bike closer to the ground when ya put some weight on it if ya light....again talk to Robert.....Edit: How the hell do I miss whole pages of stuff???? pretty much wot he ^^^^ said.
The linkage issue is not only affected by lowering links either, spacing the shock up and down and even ride height adjusters on shocks will have an effect. ( I know, off topic, but worth mentioning...)

puddytat
10th February 2008, 14:53
google R6Messagenet....great site for all things R6,no doubt theres an answer there

Robert Taylor
10th February 2008, 20:45
The other thing to take into account is how much ya weigh, new softer springs will bring the bike closer to the ground when ya put some weight on it if ya light....again talk to Robert.....Edit: How the hell do I miss whole pages of stuff???? pretty much wot he ^^^^ said.
The linkage issue is not only affected by lowering links either, spacing the shock up and down and even ride height adjusters on shocks will have an effect. ( I know, off topic, but worth mentioning...)

The grim reaper and K14 are both correct in what they have said!

FROSTY
11th February 2008, 19:33
I think this came up awhile ago. I really like the idea Her B4 came up with basicly thick soles on her boots

R6chick
14th February 2008, 06:22
Thanks every one for your help, after i changed the settings on my suspension I can actually get both tip toes on the ground at once!! (before i could only get 1 tip toe) I'm gunna get the seat foam shaved and see how much of a difference that will make and maybe get sum extra rubber put on the bottom of my boots.

Her_C4
14th February 2008, 07:40
maybe get sum extra rubber put on the bottom of my boots.

Do make sure that you take them to a shoemaker and that they know that they will need a rocker sole so that you can walk in them. The first additional rubber I had added was falt and not shaped for walking. Made things a tad difficult - the latest chap (had to get them redone for the new bike!!) that resurfaced the soles was a proper shoemaker and understood the unforgiving shape and style of the motorbike boots and sized and shaped the additions accordingly.

Not only are mine muuuuuuuuuch higher now(think lead singer in a 70's rock band:cool:), but I can actually walk in them as well :banana::cool:

chrispy121
24th February 2008, 22:13
I just got an r6 o5 and it had a lowering link in it I put the orginal back in it lowered the seat about 15mm I think from memory
PM me and i can send you some picks.
$20+p&p and it is yours.
I have no use for it
Unless i sell my r6 to a really short person later on!:clap: