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F5 Dave
11th February 2008, 16:31
Sting like a,

well maybe that should be; Rust like a
rusty thing.

A year ago I did something silly. I decided I wanted to start a bike resto project. The subject the mighty T125 Stinger:love:. Why? Circa 1970 these bikes are ‘before my time’ of learning to ride & closer to my birthday. But at my now maturing age I find these appealing more & more. The Stinger was a jewel of a bike for the time & I love the quirky kitsch styling. GP replica stated brochures, despite no self respecting GP bike having up-pipes. . .

Having something cool to potter around on would be nice, also garners to the hunter gatherer instinct.

So what to start with? I’d passed on a T125 a friend was selling ~ 8 yrs ago. Time to look at TM. Phew! They’ve shot up in price, seems everyone wants a bit of this nostalgia stuff. So after passing on the million dollar items & finally got desperate & bought something that I knew was a mistake. An incomplete bike that had been half converted into a bucket, but had heaps of spares (probably none of which I would want).

So the search was on & I’ve been collecting parts here & there & the odd evilbay purchase, pistons etc. Then of course I bought another one. From hereon known as Rusty. With my 500 project & dirtbike maintenance I’ve not even touched them, it’s a 2 year project (ok maybe 3) so gather is all I’ve done.

- - - - -

Arriving back from a trail ride early Sunday (don’t ask) I was at a loose end. One of those ends that could only be tied by doing something different. None of the pressing jobs either seemed appealing or had time to be adequately addressed in an afternoon.

Rusty, time to get busy! Rusty was a TM purchase & had been living on the North Shore. A mate went to pick her up & reported it belonged to some Old Hippy with a dozen broken vehicles in a house on blocks with a caravan. A total Gunner (I was Gunna get around to fixing it up but. . . ). From the look of the bores this was a very low mileage bike which had some perhaps electrical fault so it was parked & left to die under a tree.

Perfectly complete but left to rust to death. I hate fuckin Hippies!

Ok so strip down time & retrieve loom & electrical parts all missing or bodged on the other bike. Seat locks, horn, ignition, some cables, all very serviceable.

The rest is a total waste of otherwise undamaged tinware ally etc.

Ok so now I have parts & a list. Once I get things together I will sell off the old useable parts (I have 3 bottom ends sets of forks etc) but I’m still after a decent front mudguard.

Here’s a picture It’s an after picture. OK it’s someone else’s after picture but what I am aiming for. Actual pics when I bring the camera cable into werk my wife thoughtfully ‘cleared away’.

Philosophy: I believe it is important to have one at the start of any project. When for example making a racebike it is important to decide if you will ever put it back to road to sell it. If you can make the jump to ‘never again’ then it makes the project more focussed & frees up inhibitions. Sadly the ‘Good’ bike had a few of these festooned on it as I try to retrieve it to road. This is where Rusty gives her organs for transplant.

. . .So my philosophy is to make a nice run around in very near to shiny new condition. But not concourse. Not all 100% original. The paint for example will be my take on a Suzuki gold/bronze or similar. It will run modern comfortable grips & decent tyres. I may mod the brakes to make them safe. This will be my interpretation of how I remember these cool little bikes. The train spotters will be able to pick the odd hole, but screw ‘em.

Sadly action will again be delayed, but perhaps 2 years in the future you will be reading about this neat little run about I can take to rallys etc. But I will update this as weekend afternoons occur when I can attack small ‘projecettes’.

Rusty gets neckid pics to follow.

Mom
11th February 2008, 16:37
Sting like a,

well maybe that should be; Rust like a rusty thing.




NO, no, sting like a rusty, about to be restored thing! What a cool project! Bikes of my yoff. Keep us posted.

Bren
11th February 2008, 16:39
good read...and they were nifty bikes....nothing like a bit of nostalga to realise how old yer arse is!

Pex Adams
11th February 2008, 16:43
nothing like a bit of nostalga to realise how old yer arse is!

Oh nooooo - I've heard stories about old guys with 'sore' asses:sick::sick::sick:

Bren
11th February 2008, 17:21
Oh nooooo - I've heard stories about old guys with 'sore' asses:sick::sick::sick:
who you calling old? i aint old yet....just reaching the best years!

Motu
11th February 2008, 19:31
Thought you might of been crying Wolf......

Paul in NZ
11th February 2008, 19:40
Thats very cool - nice bikes...

Subike
11th February 2008, 19:40
you lucky sod
A wolf!
I remember at the ripe young age of 14, riding one of them, at night, down the inland route to Kaikora, before it was sealed.
Wonderfull fun bike,
I'm happy to see that at least one will not make the Knackers yard.
So when I get o my rigi,digi, 14000miles Green high side Suziki AC50 Maveric, the wolf's little brother
I will remember this post.
I await with glee the outcome of you endevors

Pwalo
12th February 2008, 06:25
Well done mate. My first bike was a T125, way back when. It was a really fun bike to ride, and much quicker than my mate's SL125. Even rode it from Wellington to Wanganui without a problem.

From memory they must be one of the easiest of bikes to work on. Lift off the tank and seat, and that's about it. Almost everything else is sitting in the breeze.

F5 Dave
12th February 2008, 09:27
If I was crying Wolf it would be the T90, although I believe the T125 might have been called Wolf in Japan & was also called Leopard in some markets. I do have a T90 tank in the spares. I had an A50T which was the high pipe A50 & largely the same as AC50 I think.

The original Mk1 was different again. To be correct the T125 most of us know is the T125MkII. There was also a model with down pipes. The US model had some minor changes, seamless tank & longer seat, headlight shell etc.

Boy who’s the train spotter now?



Ok here’s the dreadful reality of Rusty. Fortunately the ‘Bucket bike’ is the one being restored.

[Edit] note the forlorn 500 awaiting pipes in the background & the compulsory KB calendar as well as a T125 pic & brochure printout on the wall (along with a tasty RZ hybrid).

Blue Velvet
12th February 2008, 10:27
Wow. That's one mission you've got there. May the force be with you.

Nice big gargre, but where are the girlie pics? It's so sterile in there...

F5 Dave
12th February 2008, 11:17
Remember Rusty is just the parts Donor. 'Bucket bike' is the one being restored. I would have posted a pic but it is under the house a bit.

I was kinda thinking the garage looks so small in the pics as you loose depth & you can't see the rest of it. When I get time I'll smooth over the concrete floor & spray the walls, I only did a quick roller coat a day or so after moving in to get the light effect of white walls. ~ 5 more double fluros were added later.

We almost didn't look at the house as it only said single garage, & while there is only one garage door there were an awful (most) doubles we saw whilst looking were considerably smaller. Don't care about the 1 door, there was never any danger of a car being parked in there.:msn-wink:

Lesson: never get an estate agent to write your house blurb or any of the marketing info.
So why have one? Lets leave that for another thread please.

F5 Dave
10th June 2008, 16:29
Well why not?, time for an update:

So this arrived in the mail today; an air intake for a stinger. Both the ones I have are ripped & are of course unobtainable from new, but some chap had gone to the trouble of having them reproduced & I saved the link from an old Ebay advert.

I've also bought 2 rodkits for a DS80 (thanks Motoequip/TonyB) that arrived last week, although I still need wider big end pins, but with 3 cranks I might press them apart to find 2 goodies. Or there are some in UK that are 17mm but wider & can be ground down. But they were a bit pricey.

Also obtained is some size up rims so I can fit wider tyres than std. Purists will scoff but I don't care for running dreadful ribbed original 2.5" front tyre & if I go the next rim size I can get 2.75" front & 3" rear tyres that will still look std to all but the Anoraks & allow modern tyres. In addition one of the rims came with a twin leading shoe brake off a Honda or something which was modified to fit an early suzuki. What a score! Again not strictly original but will look period & give a fighting chance of stopping when asked.

Had a couple of false starts with front guards, but I have something to bodge on until I find the correct guard look I am after (the US ones were slightly different to ours & funkier I think). Wouldn't mind a headlight chrome strip or seat strip but that can all come.

Oh what joy & I haven't had to lay a spanner on it for months, not that I've had the time.

Next step is to strip the frame (+ odds like stands) back for painting so I can make a rolling chassis (on some old wheels) then build new wheels & start on the engine & cosmetics.

. . . . but next step in my list is to stop work on racebikes & start again on the 500 which has been idle & needs finishing.

Next exciting T125 instalment, ohh, late this year I suspect.:msn-wink:

geoffc
10th June 2008, 16:44
Well done mate. My first bike was a T125, way back when. It was a really fun bike to ride, and much quicker than my mate's SL125. .

A flood of good memories. It was my second bike, had a little Suzuki A50 1st then the T125. Had it several years and got me hooked into bikes. Bought a Honda CB350 next and have had bikes ever since. There has been a lot of water under the bridge since but the Suzuki T125 is really memorable for its good looks & the fun it provided. Cheers.

merv
10th June 2008, 18:42
My Bro' had a Stinger in the early 70's a nice gold one like your first pic. The sound they made was fantastic and I loved riding that bike and the engine was very reliable. They seemed to run quite rich so never seemed to suffer seizures even with the iron barrel engine - not alloy like the fantastic A100, but at least the Stinger had a 5 speed gearbox.

They were good for distance riding with the smooth twin cylinder engine and a soft seat, but the let down was the gas mileage (was miles back then). We lived in Napier and I rode it to Wairoa with the guy from over the road who had a CB450. He was impressed with the pace of my ride on the bike, but I had to gas up on the way. It would only do 40mpg and had a tank not much bigger than a gallon so I had to top up at Putorino each way. Now of course bikes like that would not survive because the gas stops don't exist any more. Ah the memories.

F5 Dave
11th June 2008, 09:35
They actually came with the size down jets to fit if required & after run-in so sayeth the manwell I believe. Good thing too as the little lay down jobbies are Amal carbs. - On a Suzuki! :shit:

Eddieb
11th June 2008, 10:05
Next step is to strip the frame (+ odds like stands) back for painting

Out of interest how much does it cost to get a frame painted or powder coated.

Eddie

F5 Dave
11th June 2008, 10:32
Gee I dunno, last powdering I got done was a place I sent a lot of work stuff through & went through pretty cheap, but they've closed. My other wet painting is done by a good mate but he isn't taking on anything extra atm.

PCS (powder coating services) around port road would be the go. Obviously have to think about how to mask it after passivating, don't want threads filled in with powder. Should be info on net about what to do.

nudemetalz
11th June 2008, 12:34
I've had 2 T125's and a T90 in my youth. Awesome machines and I'd love another.
My parents used to get annoyed with me as I used to fill the house up with 2 stroke smoke if the back door was left open and also the TV used to lose reception due to the non-supressed plug caps :devil2:

However, I have my little Uma (YG-1) which I'll have to get restored and back on the road I think.

Dang Dave, as if I didn't have enough to do with the bucket and the XR and now you're inspiring me to sort Uma out !!

F5 Dave
11th June 2008, 12:57
Yeah I saw that in you gargre (or whatever the KB spelling is).

Think yourself lucky, I've decided to now finish the 500 with no distractions.

. . . Although the 50 needs the tail-piece, bar & peg fixed & the 100 the peg.

The RF has an electrical fault that will require the fairing striped right off so I can get a WOF.

Then I was promising to sort the dragging clutch out on the GasGas before the next ride in 2 weeks.

Apparently there is a bunch of housey stuff to do & the wife's car doors are sticking their locks & it needed a WOF last week.

sigh. . .

Skunk
11th June 2008, 13:08
"You have too many projects. Pick one and limit yourself to that until it's done."

Or some such words... :lol:

F5 Dave
11th June 2008, 14:43
ahh shurrup!::pinch:

nudemetalz
11th June 2008, 14:47
Skunk's garage has a few projects on the go..........:bleh:

Fryin Finn
11th June 2008, 14:51
I rode one of these 'stingers' around a mx track at TiTahi bay back in 73 - who knows, it could have been Mervs brothers bike. I admired the styling back then but not really a dirt bike.

Skunk
11th June 2008, 14:52
Skunk's garage has a few projects on the go..........:bleh:
Just collecting the necessary parts...

Sorry for the interruption. Normal (?) service now continues...

F5 Dave
11th June 2008, 15:41
I rode one of these 'stingers' around a mx track at TiTahi bay back in 73 - who knows, it could have been Mervs brothers bike. I admired the styling back then but not really a dirt bike.
Not even slightly a dirtbike.





It was a GP racer with lights.


I have proof, see attached.

Fryin Finn
11th June 2008, 16:34
Yeah I coulda got my knee down instead of my whole leg

avgas
11th June 2008, 16:49
man that is sexy

F5 Dave
27th May 2010, 14:54
Well two years on & time for an update:


There is no news.

I haven't finished the Stinger (or the 500 for that matter). However parts are collected & the only things I really need is the chrome strip for the seat.

And some time.

peasea
27th May 2010, 15:02
Well two years on & time for an update:


There is no news.

I haven't finished the Stinger (or the 500 for that matter). However parts are collected & the only things I really need is the chrome strip for the seat.

And some time.

Here you go........

peasea
27th May 2010, 15:04
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=fBuHp5g-7k4

F5 Dave
27th May 2010, 15:16
And a Bazooka. I need a Bazooka.

Plus your GPS coordinates.

Bikemad
27th May 2010, 15:21
c'mon Dave............get a grip on yourself................
saw them at the IOM peel music festival 2007..............Jet Black was in rehab..............his son bashed the skins...................fuckin awesome

Spearfish
27th May 2010, 15:35
This is probably old news and a bit hard to read, ("Ctrl +" makes it bigger in firefox) I found while looking for bits and pieces for my own part, function over form, resto.

http://smokeriders.com/Stories/Kiwi_Rally/kiwi_rally.html

F5 Dave
27th May 2010, 17:58
Yeah I found that story a ways back too.


Youtube is closest I've come to seeing Strangers live but would have been cool.

Bikemad
27th May 2010, 19:40
have got footage of it on disc somewhere..............renovating house so it might take some time to find it but happy to send you a copy when i do............also has Madness............send me a reminder in a couple of months if ya keen..............old hugh plays the lead guitar part in Golden Brown note perfect..............magic

Pixie
28th May 2010, 09:31
Lesson: never get an estate agent to write your house blurb or any of the marketing info.
So why have one? Lets leave that for another thread please.
So they can write descriptions like "Two Storey Bungalow"

I did my bike test on a borrowed T90.
My RD 350 was too big

Pixie
28th May 2010, 09:39
Not even slightly a dirtbike.




It was a GP racer with lights.


I have proof, see attached.

Every bike was a dirt bike back then.
I even saw a CB750 being ridden over some towering earthworks in the '70s

Ixion
28th May 2010, 10:05
Mate took his Norton Atlas over Thompsons Track. Back then , whatever you rode you rode it on dirt.

F5 Dave
28th May 2010, 12:04
So they can write descriptions like "Two Storey Bungalow"

I did my bike test on a borrowed T90.
My RD 350 was too big

My RD350B had 250 stickers on it but I was too scared to take my test on it (as I had been on my XR250A with no sidestand, indicators & dodgy muffler) + it kept oiling plugs so I did my test on a GSX250

SPman
28th May 2010, 13:37
Mate took his Norton Atlas over Thompsons Track. Back then , whatever you rode you rode it on dirt.
I used to ride my T250 around the top of Mt Eden at night - does that count.

F5 Dave
28th July 2015, 21:09
Well we've been here before it feels like. Whattdayamean nothing has happened in 5 years or 7 really. But this isn't Rusty, this is the good one.

So now I seem to have some time its time to get under way.

Sheesh but I've been reading parts books and assembling my spares. I'll sort of attempt a dry build, then get the frame etc painted and do the forks and wheels which will get me a roller.

Just noticed a bracket cut off the frame. There's one on Rusty so I might have to cut and weld that onto the good frame.

merv
28th July 2015, 21:40
Wow what a fat seat that has Dave, not like the original on a Stinger.

F5 Dave
29th July 2015, 07:02
Yeah the seat base is original but it will need a repro cover and extra foam removed.

Actually can a mod move this to the classic area? Thread started before it existed.

I have better tanks that will be repainted to the gold and sound mudguards and wheels. I hope the forks of one of them come up OK. Frame on Rusty is scabby.
Maybe this one is Racey. Rusty and Racey, what a pair of shitters.

Banditbandit
29th July 2015, 16:47
The first bike I ever rode was one of those .. back in 1971 I believe ...

Fryin Finn
29th July 2015, 18:31
Back in 72 the lawnmower shop in Hartham Court Porirua had a couple for sale and really piqued my interest. Then I rode a proper dirtbike and the dream went in a different direction. I did have a ride on one in 73. Thought it was a pretty cool little bike.

merv
29th July 2015, 19:05
As per my earlier comments I reckon they were one of the best sounding bikes ever built. Being a two stroke twin they sounded like they screamed flat out but redlined at only 9,000rpm.

The one we had was smooth and quite quick for a 125 at the time but not massively so as they didn't have a real power band hit at all in standard tune. Some people modified them with pipes and the like but we sold ours in as new condition.

Its only let down was fuel consumption as we couldn't even ride from Napier to Wairoa without having to stop to fill it up. Just as well in the 70's there were gas stations at short intervals to suit the Stingers and the Kawasaki triples.

Premature Accelerato
30th July 2015, 19:42
My father had one of these 125's. Back then we didnt have a family car, so dad would take us in turns to go for a ride. My turn came up one Saturday and dad had the bright idea that we would ride down to Wellington on it to go and have a look at the show that was on in what used to be the Winter Show Buildings. We set off on a bloody miserable morning, leaving from Feilding, going through Palmy and down Pioneer Highway. About half way down the Longburn straight he gave it away. It was blowing so hard that we could barely make 50kph in 2 gear. Just too much weight for the poor thing. I loved that bike though. A year or two later I saw the 250 version of it, thought it was the best bike I had ever seen.

F5 Dave
30th July 2015, 22:27
The trade fair. Where toffee apples seemed like a good idea, and where you'd endure endless dishwashers and wonder mops so you could get outside to ride the ghost train or maybe the dogems if you were old enough.

F5 Dave
2nd August 2015, 18:29
Well the project just gained momentum. I've been struggling with how to start. I have two half stripped bikes. You're supposed to do a dry build to see what you need. But that grates with my lazy impatient nature.

Ages ago a mate had said I should get a parts book so you can search the part numbers you need to order. Bah I thought, pre Internet technology.

Somehow I ended up with one, I think he'd got it for us.

So I'm working my way through every page listing what I have and what work it needs. This way I will have a list of any parts I still don't have, but also a list of all the items that need zincing or chroming or fixing in some manner.

It also will give me a list of mini jobs so I can wander into the garage one night with two hours. Pick the carbs up and set to them and cross that off the list.

F5 Dave
18th August 2015, 20:43
Well here's my electrolysis kit. So far I have the battery box, headlight rim and instrument mount soaking in it with a sacrificial anode of steel. the anode gets hella rusty and the other stuff gets less rusty. magic. have to wipe off the anode. rust goes from (-) to (+) side. I have a power supply set to 12V but you can use an old school battery charger or a battery and a smart charger. Seems to pull up to 2 amps & settles down to 1 & then less as the anode gets rusty and gunky. You can see the gunk. Soda crystals (green pottle in washing area of New World) just a shake or two in some water is enough to get things bubbling.

Bike now in elementl pieces. Will do frame repairs & look to get that powdered along with a few other things.

Forks being disassembled. Wheels will be next to build.

F5 Dave
26th August 2015, 21:28
Charming. Just found out my T125 is a T90. Frame number gives it away. Did wonder why there was a T90 tank in the spares. Engine is a T125. Only question is if I ever want to make it legal I'll need an lvv even though they were the same bike.

Rusty is T125 but the frame is pretty scabby. Maybe I should clean it up and reassess.

merv
26th August 2015, 21:36
The T90, besides having less power was missing the dual instruments i.e. no tacho if I remember correctly.

F5 Dave
30th August 2015, 18:43
Well Rusty is in components now. I took the scotchbrite drill attachment and rippied off the paint and rust in a couple of areas to see if it was saveable. It would save the Rego hassle. Even have the old plate.

It went to bare metal pretty easy, looked promising but there were still black marks underneath. I could paint over that easy but I'd never know if it had undermined the frame. So out with the dremel and I chased a couple of welts slowly with a small stone fitting. It cleared them back to base metal with minimal depth. This is saveable so far. Powder coat will help cover it up after a decent sand blast.

There are so other advantages. Rustys frame hasn't had the grab rail cut off.

Steering head bearings have arrived. All supercessions but seem to be the right size.

husaberg
30th August 2015, 21:54
The T90, besides having less power was missing the dual instruments i.e. no tacho if I remember correctly.

My one def never had a tacho or the drive for one on the engine. The pipes were chrome on the T90 with blackpainted yet chrome underneath mufflers as well. All the T125's pipes I ever seen were Black with chrome mufflers.
You can put the 125 top end on the T90 they have the same stroke rods etc. In fact the sleeve can be bored out to fit the 125 pistons.

F5 Dave
31st August 2015, 07:44
Yeah there were chrome paintedblack pipe or two in the mix like early model 125. But two of my engines started as 125s.

husaberg
31st August 2015, 12:25
Yeah there were chrome paintedblack pipe or two in the mix like early model 125. But two of my engines started as 125s.

Is there a way of checking the frame and engine numbers.
A lot of old pommy bikes frames Like say the A10 BSA carried A7 (500) prefixs
Suzuki might have done the same.
I can't say I ever looked to see what the frame number prefix was.
Oh yeah I am pretty the carbs on the T90 were smaller by a few mm.

F5 Dave
31st August 2015, 22:01
The T90 frame no is prefixed T90. The 125 with T125. Think the jig would be up pretty quick at the registry office.

F5 Dave
6th September 2015, 18:01
Well a combination of brass brush on the drill and the flapper wheel on the angle grinder and I've chased the rust away.

So now the decision is whether to get it blasted or dip striped. Whether to powder or two pack.

I've got some welding to repair the centre stand which I cut some steel to rebuild the feet.

Grumph
7th September 2015, 06:37
Well a combination of brass brush on the drill and the flapper wheel on the angle grinder and I've chased the rust away.

So now the decision is whether to get it blasted or dip striped. Whether to powder or two pack.

I've got some welding to repair the centre stand which I cut some steel to rebuild the feet.

Grit blast - dipping is a risk as the frame welds are never completely water tight and any stripper getting in is guaranteed to come out at the wrong time....

My opinions on powder are well known, i use baked enamel on everything.

Ocean1
7th September 2015, 07:54
Grit blast - dipping is a risk as the frame welds are never completely water tight and any stripper getting in is guaranteed to come out at the wrong time....

My opinions on powder are well known, i use baked enamel on everything.

What enamel?

Aye, powder can be done well but it takes a lot of thought with masking and plugs.

And the problem with urethanes is you generally can't touch them up later. Epoxies should work OK, but not as abrasion resistant.

Grumph
7th September 2015, 15:53
What enamel?

Aye, powder can be done well but it takes a lot of thought with masking and plugs.

And the problem with urethanes is you generally can't touch them up later. Epoxies should work OK, but not as abrasion resistant.

No idea what enamel as i know of a little industrial painters in Sydenham, ChCh who are very reasonable....
i get my frames grit blasted at a place where the factory manager is a guy I used to work with....helps to be old and have contacts in useful places

husaberg
7th September 2015, 20:07
What enamel?

Aye, powder can be done well but it takes a lot of thought with masking and plugs.

And the problem with urethanes is you generally can't touch them up later. Epoxies should work OK, but not as abrasion resistant.

My only experience with power coating was, how I was unable to get the swingarm back in the frame with out wrecking it As it built up the inner pivot area. Also elsewhere, where it became damaged it lifted off entire areas. Maybe I was unlucky.

Ocean1
7th September 2015, 20:37
My only experience with power coating was, how I was unable to get the swingarm back in the frame with out wrecking it As it built up the inner pivot area. Also elsewhere, where it became damaged it lifted off entire areas. Maybe I was unlucky.

Lifting off = crap job. You get a high build and it flows so you get some smoothing covering up imperfections. But you still have to prepare properly, same as for a good paint job.

With practice you can make it work well with steel plugs to fit swingarm bores, steering head etc. Same with engine mounts, heavy steel caps / plugs. The practice bit comes in getting the heat right, the plugs are heavier than the surrounding tube, so the local powder doesn't melt. Done right the powder finishes at the bore with a nice radius.

Doing a single frame now I'd blast and paint it though.

husaberg
7th September 2015, 21:10
Lifting off = crap job. You get a high build and it flows so you get some smoothing covering up imperfections. But you still have to prepare properly, same as for a good paint job.

With practice you can make it work well with steel plugs to fit swingarm bores, steering head etc. Same with engine mounts, heavy steel caps / plugs. The practice bit comes in getting the heat right, the plugs are heavier than the surrounding tube, so the local powder doesn't melt. Done right the powder finishes at the bore with a nice radius.

Doing a single frame now I'd blast and paint it though.

I was referring to the area where the swingarm fits into(or was meant to)but yeah it might have been a shit job
As it is a 70's Suzuki I would do it how they did it but put on lots of clear coats on top.

Ocean1
7th September 2015, 21:27
I was referring to the area where the swingarm fits into(or was meant to)but yeah it might have been a shit job
As it is a 70's Suzuki I would do it how they did it but put on lots of clear coats on top.

Same thing, you can prevent too much build-up with a heavy plug there too.

Never seen a Suzuki with anything but standard old enamel. Would lots of clear make that look better?

husaberg
7th September 2015, 21:40
Same thing, you can prevent too much build-up with a heavy plug there too.

Never seen a Suzuki with anything but standard old enamel. Would lots of clear make that look better?

shinier gloss and extra protection.
The plugs wouldn't work on a MB5 frame as it has flat plates section where the engine bolts pretty sure the T125 does too but it been a while.
they are a cool bike and well worthy of restoring, never common and bloody different

Grumph
8th September 2015, 06:14
Whether it's a resto or a new build, I always mask off the areas i want left before grit blasting. Steering head uses big washers and a piece of threaded rod through it. Swingarm pivot points nut amd bolt plus washers on the faces. Any tapped holes, suitable scrap bolts etc...Never use masking tape as everything gets left in place after blasting and must stand the heat of baking too.

F5 Dave
8th September 2015, 07:28
Leaning towards blasted and 2 pack. I've left the old races in to aid steering masking. May block with washers and threaded rod now.

Cut some feet for the stand, being welded now.

Not many who do enamel anymore, however there was one place in town we used years ago before we went to powder.

F5 Dave
17th September 2015, 23:00
Being blasted now then 2 pack black. The guy does soda as well so might get hubs done to prep for paint. Tyres off. Urgh. This is why I don't like people.

Specifically past owners of bikes I've had.

Yeah that's the inner tube.
Bit big? No problem. We'll just. . Fold this bit. Back again. There. No need for an extravagant replacement.

Well the front tyre was an Innoue Rubber Company (IRC). It will be the original. They never wear out, with all that entails.

Rear had paint over terminal rust. At least there was a good brand inner tube (patched of course). The Mitsuboshi tyre company. A proud name. Made me laugh. A mate had a Dunrop in the 80s.

Grumph
18th September 2015, 06:03
Hey, I raced my T350 on the OE IRC's - complete with the flash red band on the sidewall...

The later guys racing then locally had a very hard time matching the lap times i did on it - which gave life to the legend that the early ones were faster, LOL....
When i traded it in, Tommy's had to put new rubber on it as according to the shop foreman it was the first bike they'd seen with the sides worn out but plenty of tread left in the middle.

F5 Dave
18th September 2015, 07:03
I hope you stayed home when it rained. A brave man indeed.

husaberg
18th September 2015, 13:11
Being blasted now then 2 pack black. The guy does soda as well so might get hubs done to prep for paint. Tyres off. Urgh. This is why I don't like people.

Specifically past owners of bikes I've had.

Yeah that's the inner tube.
Bit big? No problem. We'll just. . Fold this bit. Back again. There. No need for an extravagant replacement.

Well the front tyre was an Innoue Rubber Company (IRC). It will be the original. They never wear out, with all that entails.

Rear had paint over terminal rust. At least there was a good brand inner tube (patched of course). The Mitsuboshi tyre company. A proud name. Made me laugh. A mate had a Dunrop in the 80s.

My Wolf that the same front tire i'm picking its original

Grumph
18th September 2015, 19:29
I hope you stayed home when it rained. A brave man indeed.

Rode it through a ChCh winter in all weathers. Never dropped it. OE very wide high bars probably helped....

Year or so later, at a club day, four later T350's running. All with flat bars, girlings and TT100's. Guy I knew offers me a ride on his one - roughest of the four...
I took it out in open prod, had a nice little battle up front with John Woodley on a CB750 for a few laps. Pulled in before I dropped it as the front rim was bent and it was hard work around the sweeper. Owner just looks at me and mutters something about lap times while shaking his head...i assured him that his was much faster than mine was....

J.A.W.
19th September 2015, 13:04
Time on a T350 was enough for me to ditch the family tradition of running fettle-hungry Brit-bikes..

I rode one with 250 badges to riding school to fast track my license, it was a tuned one with expansion chambers & opened out air-box..
I won $50- ( a fair bit back in those days ) from a rich kid who reckoned his brand new RD 250 would whip the old Suzuki - tuned or not..

He didn't know it had a few more cc than 250, though.. was that cheating?
Nah, don't ask dont tell..

F5 Dave
19th September 2015, 17:10
Please remove yourself from my thread.

J.A.W.
19th September 2015, 21:49
Please remove yourself from my thread.

I don't think so Davo.. & it aint 'your' thread..

In fact - I painted up that Suzuki T350 in smart blue/white Suzuki racing colours & turned a tidy profit on it.. which I put towards my 1st Mach III.

F5 Dave
20th September 2015, 21:24
Spent the day clearing up the shit I'm not going to use from the two bikes. Then starting the piles of bright zinc. Chrome, paint black, paint silver. And the finished stuff. Doesn't look like there is a bikes worth left from two bikes.

Going to make a pile to get soda blasted ready for painting. Need to take one of the engines apart for the cases.

Wheels in components. Will take the shoes to see if I can get them relined with something sticky. One of the old linings had fallen off! Turned the hubs in the lathe with some Emery. Can't hold them well enough to machine round. Might ask at the brake place.

Grumph
21st September 2015, 08:10
Drums should only be machined round after the wheels are built...which will need a bigger lathe I suspect.

Most brake places now carry a modern non asbestos "green" lining. It's not bad but the complete brake plate assembly should be machined to drum size minus around .010in when the shoes are relined. Then the usual hand finishing with water/dust slots etc...

Oh, and if they say your shoes are too small dia for their raw sheet, get the pieces cut to size, take them home and bend them to shape with a heat gun....
Then they can bond them on. For some reason they (the trade) won't do it....It has no affect on the linings and is quite safe.

husaberg
21st September 2015, 12:36
Spent the day clearing up the shit I'm not going to use from the two bikes. Then starting the piles of bright zinc. Chrome, paint black, paint silver. And the finished stuff. Doesn't look like there is a bikes worth left from two bikes.

Going to make a pile to get soda blasted ready for painting. Need to take one of the engines apart for the cases.

Wheels in components. Will take the shoes to see if I can get them relined with something sticky. One of the old linings had fallen off! Turned the hubs in the lathe with some Emery. Can't hold them well enough to machine round. Might ask at the brake place.


Drums should only be machined round after the wheels are built...which will need a bigger lathe I suspect.

Most brake places now carry a modern non asbestos "green" lining. It's not bad but the complete brake plate assembly should be machined to drum size minus around .010in when the shoes are relined. Then the usual hand finishing with water/dust slots etc...

Oh, and if they say your shoes are too small dia for their raw sheet, get the pieces cut to size, take them home and bend them to shape with a heat gun....
Then they can bond them on. For some reason they (the trade) won't do it....It has no affect on the linings and is quite safe.


Or waltz into any shop

http://www.ebay.com/itm/EBC-Standard-Organic-Brake-Shoes-602-for-69-71-Suzuki-T125-Stinger-Apps-/400948420275?hash=item5d5a635eb3
model years make location
Motorcycle 2007-2008 Hyosung RX125D 1 Rear
Motorcycle 2007-2008 Hyosung RX125SM 1 Rear
Motorcycle 2006-2008 Hyosung XRX125 1 Rear
Motorcycle 2001-2009 Kawasaki BN125 Eliminator 1 Rear
Motorcycle 1975-1979 Kawasaki KD125 1 Rear
Motorcycle 1980-1982 Kawasaki KDX175 1 Rear
Motorcycle 1983-1984 Kawasaki KDX250 1 Rear
Motorcycle 1976-1983 Kawasaki KE125 1 Rear
Motorcycle 1984-1986 Kawasaki KL600 1 Rear
Motorcycle 1979-1980 Kawasaki KLX250 1 Rear
Motorcycle 1974-1982 Kawasaki KX125 1 Rear
Motorcycle 1982-1985 Kawasaki KX250 1 Rear
Motorcycle 1983-1985 Kawasaki KX500 1 Rear
Motorcycle 1980-1983 Kawasaki KZ250 1 Rear
Motorcycle 1976-1977 Suzuki A100 GoFer 1 Front
Motorcycle 1965-1966 Suzuki B100 1 Front
Motorcycle 1965-1966 Suzuki B100 1 Rear
Motorcycle 1967-1968 Suzuki B105 Bearcat 1 Front
Motorcycle 1967-1968 Suzuki B105 Bearcat 1 Rear
Motorcycle 1971-1977 Suzuki B120 1 Front
Motorcycle 1971-1977 Suzuki B120 1 Rear
Motorcycle 1982-1984 Suzuki DR125 1 Front
Motorcycle 1982-1988 Suzuki DR125 1 Rear
Motorcycle 1986-1988 Suzuki DR200 1 Rear
Motorcycle 1996-2015 Suzuki DR200SE 1 Rear
Motorcycle 1982-1983 Suzuki DR250 1 Front
Motorcycle 1982-1985 Suzuki DR250 1 Rear
Motorcycle 1978-1979 Suzuki DR370 1 Front
Motorcycle 1980 Suzuki DR400 1 Front
Motorcycle 1981-1983 Suzuki DR500 1 Front
Motorcycle 1978-1981 Suzuki DS100 1 Front
Motorcycle 1978-1981 Suzuki DS100 1 Rear
Motorcycle 1979-1981 Suzuki DS125 1 Front
Motorcycle 1979-1981 Suzuki DS125 1 Rear
Motorcycle 1980 Suzuki DS185 1 Front
Motorcycle 1980 Suzuki DS185 1 Rear
Motorcycle 1982-1983 Suzuki GN125E 1 Front
Motorcycle 1982-1996 Suzuki GN125E 1 Rear
Motorcycle 1982-1988 Suzuki GN250 1 Rear
Motorcycle 1974-1976 Suzuki GT185 1 Rear
Motorcycle 1973 Suzuki GT185K Adventurer 1 Rear
Motorcycle 1999-2010 Suzuki GZ250 Marauder 1 Rear
Motorcycle 1968-1970 Suzuki KT120 1 Front
Motorcycle 1968-1970 Suzuki KT120 1 Rear
Motorcycle 1980-1981 Suzuki PE175 1 Front
Motorcycle 1976-1983 Suzuki RM125 1 Front
Motorcycle 1976-1978 Suzuki RM125 1 Rear
Motorcycle 1976-1978 Suzuki RM250 1 Front
Motorcycle 1976-1977 Suzuki RM370 1 Front
Motorcycle 1978 Suzuki RM400 1 Front
Motorcycle 1981-1982 Suzuki RM465 1 Rear
Motorcycle 1980-1982 Suzuki RS175 1 Front
Motorcycle 1980-1981 Suzuki RS250 1 Front
Motorcycle 1974-1977 Suzuki RV125 1 Front
Motorcycle 1973-1977 Suzuki RV125 1 Rear
Motorcycle 1982-1983 Suzuki SP125 1 Front
Motorcycle 1982-1988 Suzuki SP125 1 Rear
Motorcycle 1986-1988 Suzuki SP200 1 Rear
Motorcycle 1982-1985 Suzuki SP250 1 Rear
Motorcycle 1985 Suzuki SP600 1 Rear
Motorcycle 1969-1971 Suzuki T125 Stinger 1 Front
Motorcycle 1969-1971 Suzuki T125 Stinger 1 Rear
Motorcycle 1976-1977 Suzuki TC100 Blazer 1 Front
Motorcycle 1973-1977 Suzuki TC100 Blazer 1 Rear
Motorcycle 1974-1977 Suzuki TC125 1 Front
Motorcycle 1972-1977 Suzuki TC125 1 Rear
Motorcycle 1970 Suzuki TC90 Blazer 1 Front
Motorcycle 1970-1972 Suzuki TC90 Blazer 1 Rear
Motorcycle 1973-1975 Suzuki TM125 1 Rear
Motorcycle 1971-1975 Suzuki TM400 1 Front
Motorcycle 1980-1981 Suzuki TS100 1 Front
Motorcycle 1980-1981 Suzuki TS100 1 Rear
Motorcycle 1976-1977 Suzuki TS100 Honcho 1 Front
Motorcycle 1973-1977 Suzuki TS100 Honcho 1 Rear
Motorcycle 1980-1981 Suzuki TS125 1 Front
Motorcycle 1980-1981 Suzuki TS125 1 Rear
Motorcycle 1980-1981 Suzuki TS185 1 Front
Motorcycle 1980-1981 Suzuki TS185 1 Rear
Motorcycle 1970 Suzuki TS90 Honcho 1 Front
Motorcycle 1970-1972 Suzuki TS90 Honcho 1 Rear
Motorcycle 2009-2015 Suzuki TU250X 1 Rear

F5 Dave
21st September 2015, 19:30
Yeah I took them to Contour, they've been in business for ages, I asked them if they do old bike stuff and he laid his hand down on the hub on the counter and said Yes, yes we do. I could have gone aftermarket but wanted to avoid decades old stock, that fallen off lining in my mind.

That list has a couple of recent entries, oh well I'm sorted now.

husaberg
21st September 2015, 19:40
Yeah I took them to Contour, they've been in business for ages, I asked them if they do old bike stuff and he laid his hand down on the hub on the counter and said Yes, yes we do. I could have gone aftermarket but wanted to avoid decades old stock, that fallen off lining in my mind.

That list has a couple of recent entries, oh well I'm sorted now.

I probably should have said but that list is an EBC list so they do them in new componds.
I have always like EBC stuff.
I would be tempted to put in something like a GT185 2ls drum bugger the purists

F5 Dave
21st September 2015, 22:28
Well I had a 2LS setup that fits and intended to use, but just realised that it precluded the speedo and there wasn't the room to adapt a drive. So std it is.

gsxr
22nd September 2015, 03:39
The T90, besides having less power was missing the dual instruments i.e. no tacho if I remember correctly.
You are correct Merv.
The first bike I ever owned (not rode) was a T90 .It cost me $599.00 new in 1973. It had no tacho however my mates T125 stinger did.
From my experience there was very little difference in power between the T90 and the T125 .
However that can only be judged on how young and stupid one was at the time .
Like one has to ask oneself now why the hell at the age of 16 would you ride a T90 from Christchurch to the Hilltop pub for a few jugs and ride home again back over western valley road which was back then a 4 wheel drive goat track.
We were dumb and stupid I suppose.

Looking forward to the pics of finished project

F5 Dave
22nd September 2015, 13:12
After stewing last night I went and got the drums from the brake guys before they started which I hate doing. But the pay off was $25 ea from the local TSS next day delivery. Ebc/premier should be as good as they can do with economy of scale to die for.

You've actually saved me quite a wedge of money Husa. Thank you.
Don't know why I didn't check the cross over list.

Oh yeah. The horn works. Whoot Whoot! (Or more a dull "paaarp" as was period).

husaberg
22nd September 2015, 20:21
I just looked and for t125 the spoke set are the same as a GP100 and GP125 (Drum ones)and a A100 21.5 pounds. front
Rear T125 same as Gt185 1973-1977, Suzuki Gs125 83, suzuki Gp125 rear 27 pounds


http://www.cmsnl.com/suzuki-t125-ii-r-1971-usa_model16254/partslist/

Maybe Rob TZ has some?

The front rim is used on
1969 A100 FRONT WHEEL-REAR WHEEL
1969 AC100 FRONT WHEEL-REAR WHEEL
1969 AS100 FRONT WHEEL-REAR WHEEL
1971 T125II FRONT WHEEL
1971 T125R FRONT WHEEL
1976 A100 FRONT WHEEL
1976 A100 REAR WHEEL
1977 A100 FRONT WHEEL
1977 A100 REAR WHEEL

The rear rim is same on
1971 T125II REAR WHEEL
1971 T125R REAR WHEEL
1971 TC120 FRONT WHEEL
1971 TC120 REAR WHEEL
1973 GT185 FRONT WHEEL (GT185K)
1973 GT185 REAR WHEEL
1974 GT185 FRONT WHEEL (GT185K)
1974 GT185 REAR WHEEL
1975 GT185 FRONT WHEEL (GT185K)
1975 GT185 REAR WHEEL
1976 GT185 FRONT WHEEL (GT185K)
1976 GT185 REAR WHEEL
1977 GT185 FRONT WHEEL (GT185K)
1977 GT185 REAR WHEEL

http://www.partzilla.com/parts/search/Suzuki/Motorcycle/1971/T125R/PISTON+-+CRANKSHAFT/parts.html

F5 Dave
22nd September 2015, 21:29
I can polish up what I have and rezinc. Though I was thinking of cheating with the nipples.

husaberg
22nd September 2015, 21:37
I can polish up what I have and rezinc. Though I was thinking of cheating with the nipples.

I won't tell your misses
I will see if I can dig up the road test I have on one done in NZ it the same mag that has a Burt Monroe write up and a Mountain goat road test

husaberg
25th September 2015, 13:51
MNZ issue 1 Not sure of the month or year but it was 72 based on the TT results in the same mag.
click on attachment 3 times

F5 Dave
25th September 2015, 14:00
Cool, and the advert below is for a bike shop I hadn't heard of before, must keep an eye out for them. Hard to read but think 250? hutt road. I walk that area most lunch times.

husaberg
25th September 2015, 14:20
Cool, and the advert below is for a bike shop I hadn't heard of before, must keep an eye out for them. Hard to read but think 250? hutt road. I walk that area most lunch times.

Boyles Dave now even i know that was later a Kawasaki dealer in Wellywood.
Crasher used to work there didn't he?
Its high Street, Did you click on it 3 times?

F5 Dave
25th September 2015, 19:55
Yeah High Street I walk most days. Certainly dont walk hutt road. Slip of the finger.

There have been several Boyles in wgtn. Dickie Boyle who reputedly was a 2 stroke tuner of merit. I remember Lawton&Boyle. And of course the current Mark and John Boyle but I rarely get into that end of town.
But everything thing else is before my time.

Sadly High Street place- it appears to be a TAB now.

husaberg
25th September 2015, 20:02
Yeah High Street I walk most days. Certainly dont walk hutt road. Slip of the finger.

There have been several Boyles in wgtn. Dickie Boyle who reputedly was a 2 stroke tuner of merit. I remember Lawton&Boyle. And of course the current Mark and John Boyle but I rarely get into that end of town.
But everything thing else is before my time.

Sadly High Street place- it appears to be a TAB now.

So they lanced the Boyles.
http://www.wandtattoo.de/bilder/inhalt/pferd-fuer-den-wettkampf.jpg

F5 Dave
25th September 2015, 20:04
And another reason to dislike people. Strip engine time. Hmm some cases bolts are loose. Or mullered. Or not original.

There had been little engine oil. Taking out the drain plugs there was one hollow one. Ahh detent for gear shifter barrel, but with no bb or spring. No wonder they had been fooling with the covers.

Oil pump off. ERM what's this odd bit of hand made steel? Trying to drive the pump.


Oh goody. Clear RTV oozing. Filthy.
Mmm that looks nice huh?


Crank looking ok but will be rebuilt anyway. Mains are bstd sizes. And very obsolete I have been warned.

Otherwise I'm totally at home with the Suzuki architecture that is RG50 ancestry written all over it with some TS and horizontal split that the singles obviously don't have. I've zip bagged all the bits
To be sure I don't mix them.

Do need to match and clean some outside bolts for zinc plating but I have a whole other engine to fish from.

Found a place in Texas that listed the bearings and some other stuff complete with prices. Long story short after a call it appears that the site is not listing NOS that they actually have.

Ocean1
25th September 2015, 22:55
Boyles Dave now even i know that was later a Kawasaki dealer in Wellywood.
Crasher used to work there didn't he?
Its high Street, Did you click on it 3 times?

Frank Boyle, shop was in Lower Hutt. Same family as Lawton Boyle in Wgtn I think.
Frank rode speedway, two boys rode MX, lived up on the western hills, had their own practice track up there. All gone.

Grumph
26th September 2015, 07:11
Post the bearing sizes and numbers if you can still see them, Dave. There's an independent bearing house here in ChCh who have found REAL oddities for me before. If you think you've got problems, try and find Rudge main bearings...this outfit did, bought up what they found for me and now have pretty much cornered the market for Vintage size bearings.

husaberg
26th September 2015, 09:51
15 CRANKSHAFT BEARING 20x52x17 PART OBSOLETE
17 RH CRANKSHAFT BEARING 20x52x14 PART OBSOLETE
23 CRANKSHAFT BEARING 20x52x17 PART OBSOLETE
27 RH CRANKSHAFT BEARING 20x52x14 PART OBSOLETE
316075


Can bearing be thinned one mm.

09269-20005 $10.00 http://www.speedsupplies.com/parts/suzuki-09269-20005.htm

09262-20028 $20.43 http://www.speedsupplies.com/parts/suzuki-09262-20028.htm

http://www.suzukiofvannuys.com/fiche_section_detail.asp?section=85216&category=Motorcycles&make=SUZUKI&year=1971&fveh=1932

If you search under the Suzuki part number there is some scatered arround the world Start with USA first, They don't fix stuff they park it.


TS75 BEARING 20x52x14 09262-20005 $17.35
http://www.mrcycles.com/oemparts/a/suz/50d3b6cff870021958f264c6/piston-crankshaft

Grumph
26th September 2015, 10:01
So it's the bearing widths which is the problem...well there's ways round that.

F5 Dave
26th September 2015, 12:54
And it just goes on. Pop quiz. What is this part that I found in the spares? Bearing in mind that the spares are the bottom end assortment of a T90.

Give me a minute. . .

F5 Dave
26th September 2015, 13:01
Anyway its pretty clear. This isn't the first engine I've bought that the last master mechanic has considered that the crank seals were unnecessary optional extras.
Sheesh. I hasn't noticed as I've yet to take the rotor off, just need to borrow or buy something with an M16 1.5 thread. Of the 4 pullers I have, of course. . .

F5 Dave
26th September 2015, 13:07
Thanks Husa, but if you read the disclaimer. . .


Description
Part Number 09269-20005
$10.00

Suzuki Part Number Options
09269 20005
0926920005
SZ-09269-20005


* All parts sold and priced individually. OEM replacement part availability is subject to that of the manufacturer's stock. They are special order. No New Old Stock items available. Please see our parts diagram sections and Quick Entry Screens for further selections.

Copyright © 2015 Speed Supplies. All rights reserved.




That means they've loaded up some data but order everything from US Suzuki and hope for the best.

F5 Dave
26th September 2015, 13:10
I spoke to the chap selling the one on TM he thinned bearing but found some more. Also need to be bored for pins. I know a good toolmaker so anything is possible.

husaberg
26th September 2015, 13:22
Thanks Husa, but if you read the disclaimer. . .


Description
Part Number 09269-20005
$10.00

Suzuki Part Number Options
09269 20005
0926920005
SZ-09269-20005


* All parts sold and priced individually. OEM replacement part availability is subject to that of the manufacturer's stock. They are special order. No New Old Stock items available. Please see our parts diagram sections and Quick Entry Screens for further selections.

Copyright © 2015 Speed Supplies. All rights reserved.




That means they've loaded up some data but order everything from US Suzuki and hope for the best.

Details Aye this one seems to work
http://www.mrcycles.com/oemparts/p/suzuki/09262-20005/bearing
Well they seem to be in stock it adds to Kart

F5 Dave
26th September 2015, 13:44
Yeah did at action sports as well, even got to PayPal before I got suspicious. They'd take your order. The guy on the phone was a bit surprised that I'd be trying to order parts that old, but insisted he'd try for the list I later emailed him.

husaberg
26th September 2015, 14:36
Yeah did at action sports as well, even got to PayPal before I got suspicious. They'd take your order. The guy on the phone was a bit surprised that I'd be trying to order parts that old, but insisted he'd try for the list I later emailed him.

A-holes whats the point of saying its stocked if its not, other than to take your money.

F5 Dave
26th September 2015, 16:18
Guess on reflection its easier to load up supplied digitised parts fische. But it is dumb.

roogazza
26th September 2015, 18:16
Yeah High Street I walk most days. Certainly dont walk hutt road. Slip of the finger.

There have been several Boyles in wgtn. Dickie Boyle who reputedly was a 2 stroke tuner of merit. I remember Lawton&Boyle. And of course the current Mark and John Boyle but I rarely get into that end of town.
But everything thing else is before my time.

Sadly High Street place- it appears to be a TAB now.

You mean Dickie Lawton,legendary tuner ? RIP.
(Way,way ahead of his time ,father of Peter).
ps Steve Dundoon (WMCC) was his apprentice many moons ago.

F5 Dave
26th September 2015, 19:36
Ahh shit yer right, too many moons and too young at the time.

F5 Dave
27th September 2015, 20:14
Striped the other engine down a Fair way, but need to get a rotor puller, tomorrow job. Hour or so scrubbing engine in kero. Needs another hour so when its soda blasted it doesn't spread grease around which would make the paint fail.

Have a few missing bits from the fist engine included in the 2nd one.

husaberg
27th September 2015, 20:24
Striped the other engine down a Fair way, but need to get a rotor puller, tomorrow job. Hour or so scrubbing engine in kero. Needs another hour so when its soda blasted it doesn't spread grease around which would make the paint fail.

Have a few missing bits from the fist engine included in the 2nd one.

I seen in the fiche that they can have two different generators as well.
Were the bits sfuffed in the engine?

F5 Dave
27th September 2015, 20:38
Actually both internals look pretty good so far. But a selector got tight on the shaft when removing it for some reason. I have two spares.
All 3 gens seem to be the same but have read that there are two types.

. I will effectively build 1 good engine out of two and half engines and not lose any sleep over dismantling the 2nd engine.

F5 Dave
29th September 2015, 23:19
Hmm, well I seem to have 3 different types of rotors. Never mind I'll sort out the match later.

About 5 hrs in to cleaning the cases I notice the broken stud. Nothing much to grab. Try weld onto it, no dice, twists off. Carefully drill. It works! No need for a helicoil.

More cleaning so its ready for soda blasting. Don't want grease in the mix.

Then I notice the piece missing. A casualty of chain break. Shit. Do I start on the next really filthy cases? Actually no. I've got a 3rd set which have several things stuck in them. I'll cut of the piece, get it welded underneath and finish with devcon before paint. Kinda hidden anyway.

F5 Dave
30th September 2015, 21:50
Hmm, wish I'd paid ATTN to which rotor matched which stator. Either Nippon or kokusan. Never mind will all be easy enough to work out later.

Dropped the ally parts to the blasting guy to find he'd not fixed his fan and got guilty about taking so long and undercoated it just as I arrived. Said he could take it off 2 pack it which I'd prefer although the black enamel looked pretty OK.

Spent an hour in front of the wire wheel buffing bolts for plating. This could get tedious quickly.

F5 Dave
1st October 2015, 22:47
Another couple of hours wirewheeling bolts.

Oh lookit. The service manual in the garage document pile. Forgot I had that. And it identified the rotor to stator match.

Hmm might as well check the coils. One good. Other appears to have an open 2ndry. Bugger, Rusty had the only set of genuine coils (is not bodged car ones).

Clean up. Hmm. Been putting off looking at the forks. Oh well. Have to remove a few bits to see.
One with rust on the surface the seal runs on. . .poos. Other OK. What's the chances Rusty will be able to donate a usable leg? - . . .and she does! In fact its pristine. And the other is rusty under the shrouded area but OK on seal area.

Oh Rusty I'll never regret buying you.:2thumbsup

F5 Dave
2nd October 2015, 18:29
Well effectively I'm now down to six bikes. The Bucket Stinger is dead. Long live Rusty. Who would have thought?
Wish I could text my old mate Keith and tell him that the disaster pile he picked up for me 8 years ago is the one that will actually make it to the road. Wheels didn't even turn and I think he thought I was quite mad for buying such a junker. I raise my beer to you mate and may this bike always remind me of you.

You know? I'm kinda glad it worked out this way.

F5 Dave
4th October 2015, 21:15
Last engine is apart. The dirt was obscuring the last bolt. Will work out what seals I need and prolly take me the crank to a trusted friend in Palmerston to rebuild. Just what I do for mains is unknown at this stage.

F5 Dave
12th October 2015, 19:03
So I went to pick up the bits that had been blasted and the frame s/w stand and footrest had been 2 packed.

He warned me that the other parts should be painted soon esp the iron barrels which he redid just I was there to be sure. Directed me to the flue shop down the road that do dome better than vht paint in a can. They had matt black for the barrels and a silver for the heads. But they were $35 ea. ouchy. To make it worse the silver was matt grey when it went on, unlike the lid which looked a good match.

So I kinda felt pressured into a quick job before it rained tomorrow, I bunked off at 5 and blew and prepsoled the bits. I also had a wheel paint that was for the cases and hubs and an enamel for the triple and oil tank.

I made a pigs ear of the oil tank, that will need sanding where it ran. The silver stuff I had time to do just 1 and a bit coats to stave off corrosion and judge the colour before it started to get less than warm outside and I moved it all back into the warm garage.

But as I inspect his job of the frame I notice a few areas I would have preferred filled and sanded now I see them coated. And then notice some missed areas and thin areas. Oh well, time to think.

husaberg
12th October 2015, 19:12
Photos to go here soon.
Looks great
Funny how the steering stem is so much more beefier than the swingarm.
Id look at whacking plenty of clear coat on the engine and hubs like the Japanese used too.

F5 Dave
12th October 2015, 19:32
Yeah but the top triple isn't clamped, just through bolts.

husaberg
12th October 2015, 19:45
Yeah but the top triple isn't clamped, just through bolts.

I was just meaning the stem dia only. ps you have two stems, are you doing two?

F5 Dave
12th October 2015, 19:49
One was more scabby than the other. The other had a duff thread so I said see what it comes up like else I'll thread repair.

F5 Dave
16th October 2015, 06:38
Another couple of hours in front of the ever decreasing radius wirewheel. Getting bored of this. Collected the last of the stuff that needs buffing before zincing. A reasonable pile, say another 5 hours worth. Sigh.

F5 Dave
18th October 2015, 18:04
Well its kind of been electrics day. Spent an hour sorting through 8 boxes of coils at the local used to be wrecker, only to find just one 6v coil. It was open 2ndry as well. Found a C50 one that had long lead and similar primary and secondary resistance. Cut the earthing lead and it should be OK.

Soaked various connectors and cut wires in vinegar and sanded them up. Tested the only rectifier I have. All diodes working. Sweet. Replaced various bullet connectors and cleaned down the main loom. Ordered the double connectors last week.

Finishing various assemblies and putting them in boxes. Progress.

Also bought some new VHT silver that is aluminium colour. Too wet to spray atm.

F5 Dave
20th October 2015, 21:35
So a bag arrived. Sleeving and connectors from vintage connectors.

Every connection replaced, wire sanded and recrimped. But I've just noticed about 4 of the double connection doofers had a rear entry as well. So dark was the cover I didn't see they were 3 way.

Poos, didn't order any of those. Still some 2into1 adaptation plugs will sort that.

F5 Dave
1st November 2015, 18:15
Well that's a bit more like it. Right silver. Engine cases welded to repair chain damage and painted too.

F5 Dave
1st November 2015, 18:29
That was last weekend. Also tried to fit the rebuild kit for the oil pump. One seal is too big so the lever arm was bound up. Oh well. That was the practice pump. I might just run the other one up with the drill and see how it works.

Also my painter friend who I didn't want to load up with the frame has just left his rep job to set up doing painting for himself. As of tomorrow. Dropped frame around today so it can be redone to the std I want. I should have taken his offer to do it in the first place.

Finally got the last of the stuff buffed so it can be bright zinced. It's quite a pile.


Once I get this stuff back I can start some Assembly. I'll build the wheels, attach the sw and Frame and stand, add the triple clamps. I've also selected out the fork lowers and I'll get those chromed, but they'll need some depitting work.

By lo, this will make for a rolling chassis.

F5 Dave
8th November 2015, 18:48
Some good. Some bad. Chroming came out great. But they are closing before Christmas. Bright zinc came out dull as he was out of chemicals to stop burning
Cyanide. Said he can redo if he gets them in.

F5 Dave
15th November 2015, 17:38
Well the frame is back and a much better job. But now the frame is more glossy than the sw or stand I'll have to redo those.

A mate came and lent a extra pair of hands and we straightened the bars with a 6' crowbar.

I'm cooking a roast. Wiff asleep on the couch all the kitchen doors open and I hope that the smell has gone soon and that the roast doesn't taste like someone used the oven to bake paint on T125 engine parts this afternoon.

Anyway it's starting to look like a reassembly job.

Steering bearings in. Triple on with temp bolts.

F5 Dave
19th November 2015, 19:12
The bright zinc got done again and is a lot better

F5 Dave
21st November 2015, 14:36
Great. So got the sw and stand back. Impeccable. Thanks Justin.


I'll just slide the bolt through. Hmm, these threads look a little. . . so the nuts no longer fit the bolts. . . sigh. Hes built them up by plating them too many times trying to get the finish right. I'll have to sort through and see what is OK, what is recoverable, and maybe what is trash.

F5 Dave
2nd December 2015, 19:44
Most of the bolts were usable with a wire brushing. Stripped and redid the axle bolts free.

Going together slowly.

Shit adding photos from my phone is a pain.

F5 Dave
2nd December 2015, 20:07
So oil tank on, hubs all together, bars etc. Forks need some plating residue cleaned out from inside so they don't stick lest I'd have the front end completed.

But the big news is the unobtainable main bearings showed up from Mana bearings today. Someone had the actual ntn bearings complete with circlip grooves and retention pin holes sitting in an Aussie bearing supplier warehouse. They are a 6204 but not really as they are 52od instead of 47. No idea why. Maybe it was to accommodate the pin holes now I think about it. They had more than the 4 I bought.

F5 Dave
10th December 2015, 21:09
Well lookit. Some progress. Front end together yesterday. Wheel built tonight but needs truing. Surprisingly close using electric screwdriver.

Do the rear and it will genuinely be a rolling chassis, well tyres would make it nicer.

F5 Dave
17th December 2015, 22:06
I'll try get this on the right way around with the phone.

Rear wheel done. Electric screwdriver earned it's keep again.

F5 Dave
19th December 2015, 14:51
This is the over size rear tyre lacing on the next size up rim has allowed. Oh dear.

Ah friggn ph give me a minute

Right way up now.

There is very little available now at least in nz for skinny 18s.

Magnum Noel
19th December 2015, 19:19
This is the over size rear tyre lacing on the next size up rim has allowed. Oh dear.

Ah friggn ph give me a minute

Right way up now.

There is very little available now at least in nz for skinny 18s.

Hey awesome build thread. Keep up the photos.

F5 Dave
19th December 2015, 19:57
Cheers man. Ok here's the front as of 5min ago. Wiff at neighbours. Kids finally asleep.

Worryingly the front is enscribed Golden Boy.

I'm 47. I love my wife. But still I feel somehow dirty.

Ok note the Gasgas 300 in the background with the revalved YZ SSS forks.

F5 Dave
19th December 2015, 20:12
Unfinished RZ 496 Yamagama while I'm here.

F5 Dave
19th December 2015, 20:24
Oh yeah. Listening to Supertramp from about 73 to make it genuine. $30 garage stereo. Bargain.

Wine by Lake Chalice.

F5 Dave
22nd December 2015, 21:03
Ohh some sealant and it'll go together.

Strange setup I never realised how (over)complicated the posilube system is. The feed goes through the main channels through the slinger plate/s and through the crankpin and feeds the big end through that hole in the pin.

Just for husi they are sideways. Sodden tablet or pH, just as contrary. Bah autocorrect made pH.

husaberg
22nd December 2015, 21:17
Ohh some sealant and it'll go together.

Strange setup I never realised how (over)complicated the posilube system is. The feed goes through the main channels through the slinger plate/s and through the crankpin and feeds the big end through that hole in the pin.

Just for husi they are sideways. Sodden tablet or pH, just as contrary. Bah autocorrect made pH.

If it was just for husi you would have shown the rest of world the clever left and right hand gear shift Suzukis of the period had.
I seen for the first time a YS1? whateverthey were /RD125/RD200 crank the other day you could have done what they did if the bearings were unobtainable.
Rob gave me a TS/TF125 Crank same set up with the slinger.
I must say I do like all the pictures with this build Dave

husaberg
24th December 2015, 21:59
Merry etc
http://www.dotheton.com/forum/index.php?topic=46568.0

F5 Dave
25th December 2015, 06:43
Looks cool, I want one. Funny how threads just stop sometimes. Wonder if he got it finished?

husaberg
25th December 2015, 07:42
Looks cool, I want one. Funny how threads just stop sometimes. Wonder if he got it finished?

I found it looking for a pic of the carbs for the float bowl idle set up, I have a feeling the fuel entry is well above the float height on the downdraft carb can you confirm the circuit differences compared to the std VM set up.
I was real surprised when I seen the seat pic was from Nelson.........

SPman
27th December 2015, 01:54
Unfinished RZ 496 Yamagama while I'm here.
Ooooooooo that looks interesting...the RG could do with some more oomph.

F5 Dave
4th January 2016, 21:17
Well Christmas had brought some inactivity but finally some more progress between eating, drinking far too much, boxing day races, kid wrangling, house projects.

Actually the pics are mock ups towards the end of the night. The top end is sitting there, I need to fit the last case studs and the pistons. I honed the barrels with some sandpaper on some conduit, worked surprisingly well.

Can I be bothered planing the heads and remachining the combustion chambers? Not so sure.

Considering fitting a dummy tank and priming the oil pump with the battery drill to test the lines, check valves etc.

husaberg
4th January 2016, 21:54
Well Christmas had brought some inactivity but finally some more progress between eating, drinking far too much, boxing day races, kid wrangling, house projects.

Actually the pics are mock ups towards the end of the night. The top end is sitting there, I need to fit the last case studs and the pistons. I honed the barrels with some sandpaper on some conduit, worked surprisingly well.

Can I be bothered planing the heads and remachining the combustion chambers? Not so sure.

Considering fitting a dummy tank and priming the oil pump with the battery drill to test the lines, check valves etc.

Aren't they offset squish chambers (thats what i vaugley remember)

F5 Dave
5th January 2016, 06:38
Yeah they are so I'd have to plane the head surface separately then mandrel the offset plugs to machine the chambers. Tedious. I might measure the squish without the head gaskets and consider measuring the chamber size if that gives me a sensible result.

Or just leave it.

Drew
5th January 2016, 08:57
My old Titans were a bitch to bleed the oil lines on. Then they'd develop air bubbles anyway. Looking back, it was problem ducking the air into them from the crankcase.

merv
5th January 2016, 09:12
We went through a few Suzuki 2 strokes back in the 70's including a Stinger and the only one we had trouble with air in the oil lines was with the first model TS185 after a few years. We were never sure if it mattered when bubbles formed as it never gave any trouble but eventual fix was replacing the lines themselves as we figured the little ball valves were leaking and that did cure the problem.

F5 Dave
5th January 2016, 09:59
Yeah there's a check valve in each pair.

Further to my subterfuge the sidecover was placed there, just needs a gasket and I'll screw the cover on. If you read CMM Steve Cooper is doing a Stinger and found his pattern gasket set came with a cover gasket from an entirely different bike.

I hooked out my set and found the same thing. Oh well I'm getting to be an old hand at making gaskets from my modified MB etc.

F5 Dave
8th January 2016, 14:54
Dropped the kids to their nans. Flights delaied wife another day. 2hrs to myself to progress. As usual its not plain sailing.

Sidecover sorted admid using taps etc.

Right, drain bolts in bottom. And now top end. Ooh-eer.

Photo a bit naff. That oil hole almost lines up. But the holes all offset say 2mm. And there's no way the doubled up transfer area is going to work. Its like the movie theatre sitting next to some guy who takes the arm rest and you're fighting back.

And the head gaskets. Well its like they tried to make them not quite fit.

F5 Dave
8th January 2016, 15:29
Oh well 1/2 hour I won't get back.

F5 Dave
20th January 2016, 21:33
2 weeks go by, but the conservatory is gibbed. And we've got rid of the beer and wine, that was a chore.

I need some thicker solder. I keep finding bikes that seem to be just over 2mm. And that's without the head gaskets. I can use my sparkplug mandrel to machine the offset chambers bigger but not to surface the face or squish. Too hard to hold for me, they're a bit delicate.

Really can't put it together like that can i ?

Drew
21st January 2016, 04:15
Fold the solder in half and twist it together. Presto, fat solder. Same technique as using it for its intended purpose on large cable.

F5 Dave
21st January 2016, 06:20
Yeah I've tried that but its hard to see where the flats are, it just tends to move out of the way.

Grumph
21st January 2016, 08:57
Yeah I've tried that but its hard to see where the flats are, it just tends to move out of the way.

Bend the doubled/rolled solder into a U shape - it can't escape then.

F5 Dave
21st January 2016, 12:27
Might try again like that. Jaycar is down the road but no use. Of course I work in the electronic industry where 0.7 is thick.

But the plumbing solder I have for cables is way unsuitable.

F5 Dave
21st January 2016, 12:31
Might try again like that.
Maybe head off. Held with plasticine on piston.

Jaycar is down the road but no use. Of course I work in the electronic industry where 0.7 is thick.

But the plumbing solder I have for cables is way unsuitable.

husaberg
21st January 2016, 19:28
Might try again like that.
Maybe head off. Held with plasticine on piston.

Jaycar is down the road but no use. Of course I work in the electronic industry where 0.7 is thick.

But the plumbing solder I have for cables is way unsuitable.

Find someone who does leadlight windows is large dia and soft.
http://www.leadlight.co.nz/products/3-2mm-solder-wire-60-40-500g-mgs-500
http://www.clayartstudio.co.nz/acatalog/Leadlight_Accessories.html

F5 Dave
21st January 2016, 20:24
Actually twisted tight enough Drews method worked just fine, thanks for suggesting it, made me try again.

1.9 right, 2.2 left. About the same top to bottom and wedge shaped. The suppressed racer in me is having trouble not to make new heads. But this is a road resto. I still want good cooling squish effect so I'll run without the 0.45 head gaskets (sheesh and I was worried about the 0.1 I'd added with the thicker base gaskets), and skim up to 1.3 & 1.5 to leave 0.6 squish.

I'll then open the chambers to get comm back to a soft ratio, say 12:1 should allow for using 91 but I might run it up on the dyno and if it makes more on 95 when hot I've gone too far and switch to 95.

F5 Dave
1st February 2016, 21:55
Well having lost a bunch of momentum over Christmas and being paralysed over putting the engine in or fixing the obvious design mistake of crazy squish. Dropped the heads to Karl to do the flat cut, then I'll do the chambers to suit.

But where to restart a project? At the other end of course.

This took like 2hrs, wire wrapping, tape, and lots of lube. Shesh what a dumb idea, would have hated to had to pay a mechanic in the 70s to change the bars.

Ahh fuck this tablet is impossible.

F5 Dave
2nd February 2016, 17:46
The repro switch /perches seem a little more cheesey handling them. We'll see if I decide to renovate the originals at a later date.

The grips as someone pointed out were one of the first things specified in my head, that and potentially a shade variation of the tank colour (there are several but I'll match close to one I have in the gold). But I'd always decided I wanted pro grips and screw anyone else that doesn't have to ride it. I had plans of twin leading brake but lack of speedo drive skuppad that.

I filed down the throttle tube to take off the ribs and ridge then copious glue.

husaberg
2nd February 2016, 17:54
The repro switch /perches seem a little more cheesey handling them. We'll see if I decide to renovate the originals at a later date.

The grips as someone pointed out were one of the first things specified in my head, that and potentially a shade variation of the tank colour (there are several but I'll match close to one I have in the gold). But I'd always decided I wanted pro grips and screw anyone else that doesn't have to ride it. I had plans of twin leading brake but lack of speedo drive skuppad that.

I filed down the throttle tube to take off the ribs and ridge then copious glue.

I have a GT185 (I think) drum do you want me to measure it?, I think it had a speedo drive std. it was about 6 inch 2ls I think?
edit
319258

Those early gns had a small 2ls as well it was a conical hub I think, but the brakeplate wouldn't care either way.
This is one mounted on a PE250
http://fhq7hw.blu.livefilestore.com/y1pVlMi0kCEsLGprT_q8d_m5xCecft4f4jvogTyccNlmzidbQF kwtF87_QbrnHiWB6CD2GOlSEyYAo/hub%202.jpg
The thing I remember most about my wolf was the plasticness of the grips. I don't think it was actually the age but more the material of the grips.

Seen this today I have never seen this tank model before.
http://www.bikesrestored.com/7467/suzuki-t125-stinger-1971/

F5 Dave
2nd February 2016, 19:21
Yea I have the brake plate that goes right in, but the speedo drive is incorporated in the spacer on the other side. There isn't the room for such a spacer. Drive is tapped from the same side as the lever on std setup. Oh well,

husaberg
2nd February 2016, 19:32
Yea I have the brake plate that goes right in, but the speedo drive is incorporated in the spacer on the other side. There isn't the room for such a spacer. Drive is tapped from the same side as the lever on std setup. Oh well,
Stinger
http://www.vintagebike.co.uk/wp-content/uploads/gallery/suzuki/1973-suzuki-t125-stinger.jpg
GT185 although it looks some models have a torque arm or a tab
http://thmb.inkfrog.com/thumbn/independentcycle/MVC-265S_052.JPG=450&gap=1

the GN250 is on the off side.

F5 Dave
3rd February 2016, 06:13
Oh that's interesting, maybe something to look at later, mines all fitted and I have to keep focused which is proving a bit difficult atm.

F5 Dave
4th February 2016, 22:11
And I've zincd the wrong brake arm. Oh well silver paint for now.


Run the loom. My pictures weren't clear enough. About 80% connected, and about 80% of those I'm happy with. Faded colours and colour blind male, added to an old style loom with no blocks, just individual bullet connectors.

Might have to get the wife to check my matching. Else just check the other end of the loom wire I'm expecting it to be.

Have another bash later. Collect heads tomorrow I hope so some tedious measuring and machining to do, but then I can finally fit the engine.

Drew
5th February 2016, 07:44
I admire your motivation man. Given the number of projects you've mentioned in the shed, this is coming along right quick.

F5 Dave
5th February 2016, 18:50
Thanks its just been so hot. Dropped the chrome work off to Skiddy in upper hurt, some items like the iconic stinger covers and heat shields need brazing/fettling before final chrome. Needs a craftsman.

Grahame is a quiet achiever, but I showed up one day many years ago to find him working on the Ally Steve Roberts bike that preceded the plastic fantastic. Roberts complemented him on the resto.

Karl had planed the heads. Should end up ad 0.7 squish each. Now just to machine them to correct comm.

Drew
6th February 2016, 05:29
This has been mentioned in the ESE thread I'm sure, but there is just too much info in there for me to retain any of it. Will just getting the squish right without doing any other work make it go better?

F5 Dave
6th February 2016, 06:20
Squish bands work by placing a cool area of gas around the edge of the piston which promotes the exchange of heat to the relatively cool heads. If that area is too wide transfer is less efficient. It also makes the combustion chamber compact for quick burning.

The trade off is that gas in the squish area is never burnt. So reducing it to close to nothing means most gas mixture is available for power production.

On top of that I'll crank the compression up a tickle, but I certainly won't go crazy. Its an old bike and air cooled. But no point putting an engine back together if yer not going to make it faster:msn-wink:.

Also it will be a through the range increase rather than favouring top end.

Drew
6th February 2016, 06:25
That makes sense. Cheers.

F5 Dave
8th February 2016, 20:59
15.6:1 and 16:1

Maybe a little high.

First cut. Probably 13.5, but harder to add material.

F5 Dave
9th February 2016, 21:14
Well it measured at 5.5cc. 12.3:1. Actually that'll do as is. Gave it a polish to just remove machining marks.

Next side I do by eye to match the other. 5.5cc. This never happens. The 300 took me about 7 cuts. Still I'll take that as a win.

Back of fag packet calculations make std about 10:1 but capable of running on dishwater and kero.

More fag packet guesses, should make, erm, hmm, well were talking say two low tuned air cooled 50s over bored. 4hp x2 + 25%. 10hp? Maybe I've added another. Could I hope for 12? This is going to be slow.

But light, and who cares?

merv
9th February 2016, 21:47
Whatcha talking about Dave? Suzuki claimed the Stinger was a 15hp motorcycle in stock condition, are you saying they exaggerated well?

Back in the day the one we had did feel like it had that kind of power up top but it also had the feeling of quite a wide power band for a small twin giving the illusion it was rather flat.

F5 Dave
10th February 2016, 06:03
Many years later the rotary valve GP125 made 13hp on a real dyno and it was considerably more advanced. So yes the exaggeration started early.

Drew
10th February 2016, 06:46
Many years later the rotary valve GP125 made 13hp on a real dyno and it was considerably more advanced. So yes the exaggeration started early.

I remember riding one of those and marveling at how well it went compared to my 84 GSX 250. 13 horses ya say? Fuck I'm easily impressed.

F5 Dave
10th February 2016, 16:52
Yeah I think I'd rather have had a GP125 than a Pusey gsx250. What with the remote feeling front end, Suzuki reg/rec failures and tank rust silting up the carbs. Opps, I've given away too much.

Esp as I bought it to get my licence legally, got scared of sitting it on my RD350 (with the slightly home brewed 250 stickers) but was super slow compared. Maybe the gear indicator made up for the lack of power.

Drew
10th February 2016, 17:25
Maybe the gear indicator made up for the lack of power.
I was robbed! Mine never had a gear position indicator. :mad:

F5 Dave
10th February 2016, 18:43
Actually maybe that was just the 550. Maybe it just had some cheap nasty rectangular idiot lights and some enormous triangular indicator things at the top.

Suzuki's after the 70s went downhill fast.

Worst bike I ever owned? I think it was.

What is it? Like twelve Suzuki's I've owned? Slow learner I guess.
{Edit} thirteen,
no fourteen, ahh who cares
No sixteen,

Drew
10th February 2016, 19:23
Actually maybe that was just the 550. Maybe it just had some cheap nasty rectangular idiot lights and some enormous triangular indicator things at the top.

Suzuki's after the 70s went downhill fast.

Worst bike I ever owned? I think it was.

What is it? Like twelve Suzuki's I've owned? Slow learner I guess.
{Edit} thirteen,
no fourteen, ahh who cares
No sixteen,
400 had a gear position indicator.

F5 Dave
10th February 2016, 20:52
Well another milestone.

Drew
11th February 2016, 06:27
Fuck that's cool.

rambaldi
11th February 2016, 14:14
Well another milestone.

Looks wonderful

Ocean1
11th February 2016, 18:57
Well another milestone.

Are those ape hangers standard issue Dave?

F5 Dave
11th February 2016, 20:05
I think that's just the picture angle and lack of tank and instruments. Std but there were other options sez the book. Never seen anything else though.

Ocean1
11th February 2016, 20:20
Aye. Looking at a few pic's of contemporary machinery says you're right.

Coming along nicely. I keep thinking I'd like to do something similar, maybe in a year or two when work slows down a bit...

In the meantime I'll take some wee pleasure with your work.

merv
11th February 2016, 20:52
I think Dave is right when he said camera angle, as the bars on the Stinger were not really that high and it was a comfortable bike to ride. The bars were more like trail bike bars of the era, not ape hangers.

F5 Dave
12th February 2016, 13:43
Feel free to arrange to drop in have a look some night if you want motivation. I owe you a beer anyway.

SPman
15th February 2016, 18:17
Fuck that's cool.

Wot he said.

husaberg
21st February 2016, 14:45
One down (nearly) So only 13 to go.
319840

Can you do this one next
319841

F5 Dave
21st February 2016, 18:25
That is a whole zone of cool.


There's a brace of RD400s in the dyno room. I'd like to save one.


Anyway not much to report, just tinkering. Fitted new chain and sprockets, usual stuffing around adapting a front retainer. Having failed to find 6v instrument bulbs in right sizes without importing them, I've decided to make some. May save some overhead current along the way.

Also ordered Brake and Clutch cables. Got an oil sight glass and a nos battery. You see the side of the battery so if its totally dead I'll gut it and fit a smaller gellcell inside. But they are an odd size. I'll try read up about stored batteries to see if there's any pretreatment before adding acid.

F5 Dave
23rd February 2016, 21:00
Another slow night last night. I rebuilt the headlight connector but the double contact I used is 90degs out so frustration.

Made prototype led instrument bulb. Not pretty but should work OK.

Sorted the throttle cables and started cleaning the carbs. Have two-three sets, but will be interesting as the slides are a bit tight in one of each pair. Next step is strip and vinegar.

Bass
24th February 2016, 05:47
Been following this with interest and impressed with the skills and "how to" knowledge on display.
First year at engineering school, a good mate bought one of these (Stinger) and I always thought it was a really good looking little machine and comfortable to ride.
Sadly, the following year he traded it on a Kwaka 350 that he killed himself on 8 months later. It was at his funeral that I discovered I'd struck the ballot for the army.
Not a good year.

F5 Dave
24th February 2016, 06:03
Golly, I should say not.

Bass
24th February 2016, 10:51
Looking forward to photos of the finished machine.
Despite the personal connotations, I still think it may be Suzuki's most visually attractive design, ever.
Recipe for debate right there!

F5 Dave
12th March 2016, 00:03
Golly well this worked well.

Got onto a bidding war with a ficticeous person from ausstrailer with no bids. Too bad looks the real deal.

F5 Dave
9th April 2016, 14:46
Like zero progress. Weekend rides away but this thing on the bench. Recommissioned after 11 yrs in a garage. But your best mate asks for help, what do you do?

Grumph
9th April 2016, 16:45
Like zero progress. Weekend rides away but this thing on the bench. Recommissioned after 11 yrs in a garage. But your best mate asks for help, what do you do?

You put some miles on it on straight mineral oil to try and rebed the rings....and after a couple of heat cycles, if it hasn't blown the head gasket, you retorque the head....Always assuming the carbs are clean enough to run....

F5 Dave
9th April 2016, 16:57
Yeah she had an Impulse before, like in the 90s. Had to tow it to start it. A crazy thrash trip to minefield in 2 -3rd gear and it was sweet.

But this one started up with brake clean, then pulled the carbs, seized up. From 3 sets I built the best set. Now it starts up on petrol and choke about an hour ago. Pretty easy too.

Except pipe 2 is cold. Plug clean. Swap plug, coil lead/cap to another cyl just for the sake of it. Stays cold on 2.
Thought I'd blown through pilot cct but clearly there is some blockage.

For those not in the know, these have shared float bowls 1&2 + 3&4. Would have thought it would have picked up on more throttle.
Very prophetic Greg.

Grumph
9th April 2016, 20:59
Those twin choke carbs share diaphragms too. If one side isn't running, doubt there's enough vacuum to lift both slides.

I learnt a lot I didn't want to know about them when i put an impulse motor on alky in a speedway car - with the engine east/west...
Two mains in one float chamber - and all the fuel going one way in corners. I found out a lot about baffling float chambers. went well in the end too.

If that cylinder won't come up regardless, check valve clearances. May have a stuck valve...

F5 Dave
10th April 2016, 07:01
Stuck open? Wouldn't that reverse desmo closed using the piston?

Grumph
10th April 2016, 07:58
Stuck open? Wouldn't that reverse desmo closed using the piston?

To a point, yes....Old jags are very prone to this. Then when they're coaxed into life you're left with a bent valve - or two...they run half decent and the unknowing think it's a carb or ignition problem causing the odd backfire or stutter. Big clearance on one or more valves is a good pointer to something being bent.

F5 Dave
10th April 2016, 18:35
Hmm. Might do a compression test before I can be bothered popping the top. Getting less and less enthusiasm about this.

F5 Dave
13th April 2016, 21:15
120psi off the button. Not bad for something that has been sitting so long (and tiny extra vol of 10mm thread adaptor). Enough to fire given spark and gas you'd think.

Cyl 2 only pipe won't get warm. Plug stays dry.

Dropped the oil and filter to drain. Want the space back for the Stinker.

Grumph
14th April 2016, 06:38
120psi off the button. Not bad for something that has been sitting so long (and tiny extra vol of 10mm thread adaptor). Enough to fire given spark and gas you'd think.

Cyl 2 only pipe won't get warm. Plug stays dry.

Dropped the oil and filter to drain. Want the space back for the Stinker.

No fuel in that hole...I'm sympathetic re space - my hoist has a very large & heavy road GS1000 sitting waiting for rings ex japan. Too difficult to move it due to weather/space/bad back/phase of the moon/old age/no lotto win etc....

F5 Dave
24th April 2016, 17:48
Work stress has sapped my will to live and I've been going to bed rather than the garage. Decided today I'd get the pig on the bench running on 4.

Carb floods. Give it a tap stops. Can't get it to start. Even with spray start. Wanted to observe slides moving with airbox off. Go for a ride. Have a pie.

Come back strip carbs off again. Block air holes and blow through pilot. Fuel spray emerges. OK that's open.

Put carbs back on. Hey what's that open pipe hiding at the back coming off carb no.2? Looks like a fuel vacuum hose fitting. Why is it open? Check fuel tap. Non vacuum type. Check original carbs. Short tube with a bolt wired on. Ahh.
Impulse has vac tap. GSXR doesn't.

Back on. Takes ages to start but finally it goes. And on all four. Hoorah. Starts easily now.

Brake seals still not ordered by owner, right roll this off carefully to put in the lockup and put the Stinger back on the bench. I'll use the rear brake to ease it down the ramp. Pedal goes to the end. Bugger. Best I fix those first. Sigh.

F5 Dave
11th May 2016, 21:41
GSXR pushed into lockup awaiting parts and Stinger time again.

Ignore the tank, just mockup.

Some chrome bits back today and the last pipe bits dropped off. Various triple clamp bolts, chain and rear guard, brake lever, points cover kickstart.

Course the wheel has to come out to fit the rear guard, but that's opportune as the sprocket bolts foul the chaiguard.

Oh and the points cover only seems to line up one screw. Why? Is it off something else?

And the brake pedal won't slide on, almost unless you take out the motor or the swingarm, your choice. Ahh time for bed.

F5 Dave
11th May 2016, 21:51
Oh yeah been soaking carbs in kero. Might give them some time in vinegar. And perhaps ultrasound.

There's actually two sets just in case.

husaberg
11th May 2016, 22:14
Oh and the points cover only seems to line up one screw. Why? Is it off something else?



I am pretty sure mine was the same (on the wolf)
Maybe only 2 of three though?

F5 Dave
21st June 2016, 21:54
Golly has another month gone by? Well I've bought a Street Triple which has distracted me as of course it needs riding and modification.

But thanks to Jelly I scored a mislisted Stinger tank for $27 delivered. It has some damage near the tap and needs a strip and repaint, but its much better starting point than the other four I have plus better badges and cap. Sweet. Thanks I owe you one.

old slider
23rd June 2016, 13:11
Golly has another month gone by? Well I've bought a Street Triple which has distracted me as of course it needs riding and modification.

But thanks to Jelly I scored a mislisted Stinger tank for $27 delivered. It has some damage near the tap and needs a strip and repaint, but its much better starting point than the other four I have plus better badges and cap. Sweet. Thanks I owe you one.



Love the bike, but your massive wall of tools fascinates me, it has stuff I have never seen before, I tend to mostly have a hammer, a bigger hammer and the sledge.

F5 Dave
23rd June 2016, 18:59
Shadow boards I thought were the preserve of old men but its a whole lot easier than a tool chest. I have another easy to transport set for race meets.

Drew
23rd June 2016, 21:45
Shadow boards I thought were the preserve of old men but its a whole lot easier than a tool chest. I have another easy to transport set for race meets.

Was discussing the merit of a shadow board with Al tonight after seeing the pic. Can't drag it round the workshop, no good for us lazy cunts.

Bass
24th June 2016, 07:13
Was discussing the merit of a shadow board with Al tonight after seeing the pic. Can't drag it round the workshop, no good for us lazy cunts.

But modern tool boxes have shaped holes for everything, so it's all the same anyway

F5 Dave
24th June 2016, 07:20
I only have one bike stand, admittedly I'm working on the Streety on the ground. Hey, actually I might put it up on the bench. Gaa!! must get back on the Stinger, but you should see the list I wrote yesterday for the Street.

Board is much easier than opening drawers. But yes doesn't suit mechanic who has to move about or share area with other tool stealin coworkers.

old slider
24th June 2016, 12:53
Shadow boards I thought were the preserve of old men but its a whole lot easier than a tool chest. I have another easy to transport set for race meets.


Sadly this old man really only ever learnt how to use shovel, hammer and spade type tools. Now the Adjustable spanners (crescents) are my nemesis, I can just about phuck anything.

F5 Dave
24th June 2016, 17:43
Just out of sight is my fav shifter. Its like 2' long. Rarely used but a great straightener.

Drew
24th June 2016, 19:10
Just out of sight is my fav shifter. Its like 2' long. Rarely used but a great straightener.

I've got a 2 foot stilson that gets used for the same thing.

Bass
27th June 2016, 06:56
I've got a 2 foot stilson that gets used for the same thing.

My Stilson's bigger than your Stilson.

Drew
27th June 2016, 07:14
My Stilsons bigger than your Stilson.

It's heavy enough at that, larger would make me even less likely to use it.

roogazza
27th June 2016, 09:19
My Stilsons bigger than your Stilson.

I get ya ,but I have a lot of fun with my little Stilson !!!:shifty::confused:

Bass
27th June 2016, 09:55
It's heavy enough at that, larger would make me even less likely to use it.

The last thing I expected was a serious response. Oh well, tis still Monday after all.

(Actually have a full range of them, about 7, but they all belong to the boss.)

Drew
27th June 2016, 17:32
The last thing I expected was a serious response. Oh well, tis still Monday after all.

(Actually have a full range of them, about 7, but they all belong to the boss.)

I'm never serious.

F5 Dave
27th July 2016, 21:48
Well with several weeks and no progress the new bike is out of the garage on sabbatical. Struggling to get motivated. But I've now sorted both brakes without dropping the engine out again, did the sw.arm.

So to try bouy myself on - an old fashioned pre photo shop mockup photo.

F5 Dave
27th July 2016, 21:55
And another

F5 Dave
27th August 2016, 07:18
Carbs in vinegar for a day, or was it two.

Gave them a brush, grey smut ally coming off them. Ooer. Into water, brakeclean, wd40.

Not too bad. May blow through, check drillings and put them together/on the bike.

Drew
27th August 2016, 07:38
Carbs in vinegar for a day, or was it two.

Gave them a brush, grey smut ally coming off them. Ooer. Into water, brakeclean, wd40.

Not too bad. May blow through, check drillings and put them together/on the bike.

Not sure if the brake clean and wd40 will neutralise the acid. When cleaning petrol tanks ya gotta put baking soda in the water.

F5 Dave
27th August 2016, 08:03
I figured weak acid, dump in container of water for several minutes should do it. Might go give them a rub later.

But that reminds me Imust raid the cupboards. My winter gloves smell, apparently baking soda is the go.

Drew
27th August 2016, 08:12
I figured weak acid, dump in container of water for several minutes should do it. Might go give them a rub later.

But that reminds me Imust raid the cupboards. My winter gloves smell, apparently baking soda is the go.

I found a liberal douse of 'oust' kills the stinking things in bike gear.

Grumph
27th August 2016, 09:29
I found a liberal douse of 'oust' kills the stinking things in bike gear.

You'd better not post that info on the sidecar racing thread.....

F5 Dave
27th August 2016, 10:59
Might have to Googlet that. While I was doing thegloves iItook heed and ssubmerged the carbs in some soda water mix. Quick tickle on thewire wheel, hmm might have to do them all. But it can wait till I'vebeen out for a ride and ingested a steaknpepper pie from the ccorner cafe in grey.

F5 Dave
27th August 2016, 17:56
Great now how do Iget the soda powder out of the fingers? How do Ilet myself get talked into these positions?

Don't seem to smell I guess . . .

Drew
27th August 2016, 18:47
Great now how do Iget the soda powder out of the fingers? How do Ilet myself get talked into these positions?

Don't seem to smell I guess . . .
Vinigar. Lol.

Just water does the trick.

F5 Dave
31st August 2016, 21:57
Heaps of pissing around, straightening throttle stop rods (yeah never seen them before) and swapping out bits between a couple of sets.

Finally mounted.

F5 Dave
16th September 2016, 22:30
No pics as tablet had been swiped by the missus and its too wet to go back downstairs.

Rubber bits in hot water and squeezed on gear and kick lever. Points set (yeah been a while) covers fully home, both aforementioned levers on. Tail light fitted. Footrests back on. Even fitted fuel and vacuum lines.

Its been a productive couple of nights. If I jumped the gun it'd possibly be ready to start.

Last loom connections and oil pump to sort before that, instruments etc if I get carried away.

Drew
17th September 2016, 08:47
Can't remember if I've asked anyone this before. How do you bleed the oil pump lines on those old things? Used to do my head in trying to get the lines free of bubbles on my Titan.

F5 Dave
17th September 2016, 12:39
The pump should have a bleed screw so the oil tank to pump bleeds air out. From there the pump is supposed to pump, but the crankcase is also pressurising and vacuuming. The one way check valves are supposed to keep this in order and stop air bubbles. Mostly. I have a couple of sets.

Kickaha
17th September 2016, 12:47
The pump should have a bleed screw so the oil tank to pump bleeds air out. .
Pretty sure that was how my old GT550 was done, you moved the lever on the pump to full and kicked it over until oil came out or ran it with the lever jammed on full, then you also set the oil pump up by lining up some marks while you had the throttle fully open (engine off)

Drew
17th September 2016, 19:04
It was the semi clear lines from pump to cases that always had air in them on the Titan. Got oil fine and never had an issue, but it made me nervous.

Grumph
17th September 2016, 19:37
It was the semi clear lines from pump to cases that always had air in them on the Titan. Got oil fine and never had an issue, but it made me nervous.

I've said to many people over the years that Suzuki - and others too - should have used black tubing. Would have saved a shitload of worry...

Drew
17th September 2016, 19:47
I've said to many people over the years that Suzuki - and others too - should have used black tubing. Would have saved a shitload of worry...

Ah, feel better about riding it like that now.

merv
17th September 2016, 20:08
Ah, feel better about riding it like that now.

Only bike we had that you could see the clear lines on like that was the first model TS185 and after it had bubbles for a while freaking us out we bought new lines for it and all fixed as we guessed it was the little ball valves not sealing properly. It never seemed to cause any problems though - no seizures or anything so it must have still been getting enough oil from the pump.

F5 Dave
17th September 2016, 21:52
No pics which makes for a tedious thread Fitted oil lines and bled pump tonight as it seemed topical and wiff put kids to bed.

Bled nice. Running Silcolene Scoot Sport cauce it was cheap and bound to be 743% better than what was available in 1970.

Spun pump up with the `lecy screwdriver and held full open. Slowly dripped out of the barrel feeds, none of which are connected. But the crank feeds which are paired to each barrel feed but with thinner tube, well, they didnt spurt. I blew and Isucked and wiped. More pumping. Maybes got a bit damp.

I think premix will feature for quite some time.

Drew
18th September 2016, 11:02
No pics which makes for a tedious thread Fitted oil lines and bled pump tonight as it seemed topical and wiff put kids to bed.

Bled nice. Running Silcolene Scoot Sport cauce it was cheap and bound to be 743% better than what was available in 1970.

Spun pump up with the `lecy screwdriver and held full open. Slowly dripped out of the barrel feeds, none of which are connected. But the crank feeds which are paired to each barrel feed but with thinner tube, well, they didnt spurt. I blew and Isucked and wiped. More pumping. Maybes got a bit damp.

I think premix will feature for quite some time.
I used to put a bolt through the barrel feeds so it would force oil to the crank feeds.

F5 Dave
18th September 2016, 11:09
Thats not a bad idea, I'll try that thanks.

F5 Dave
18th September 2016, 21:56
Well that worked fairly well. With some blocked orifices Suzi became slippery from her remaining holes.

Finally got the throttle working smooth just took some filing of a nipple.

Thought I'd use the blue tank for this photo shoot.

husaberg
18th September 2016, 22:01
324542
Also, Cripes Drew is some kind of savant......

Bass
19th September 2016, 09:39
Thought I'd use the blue tank for this photo shoot.

That's a pretty impressive restoration job - well done sir