A special tool.....

[Fatjim]

is required to remove the front wheel on a sv1000.


FFS!!!!!!!!!!!!

Who's the prick who decided to put the biggest mutha of an allen key (~22mm) on the end of the front axle. How many people have allen drivers that large in their tool kit.


Now I'm pissed.

[Str8 Jacket]

But you're a special tool Jim.....

[James Deuce]

I think I may have something fits. I'll let you know tonight.

[ManDownUnder]

Buy an M15 bolt (I think that's the one) it'll have a 22mm hex head...

Put two nuts on the top of it and lock them together ("undo" the bottom one while "tightening" the top one).

El cheapo 22mm Allen key!

[Cajun]

i made some up for the gixxer

what did was get a big nut/bolt that fit in the hole

then weld the nut to bolt, and then all ya do is bang the bolt head in the hole, get a spanner and lossen/tighten by the nut, and front wheel comes out

aka

<img src='http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2206/2233171059_ba62594e19.jpg'>
<img src='http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2113/2233923660_19eab3af1a.jpg'>

The above is a fancy looking version of what i did, i got welder out instead, and it now sits in my toolkit on bike, for if anything happens on road side also

[snot]

Buy an M15 bolt (I think that's the one) it'll have a 22mm hex head...

Put two nuts on the top of it and lock them together ("undo" the bottom one while "tightening" the top one).

El cheapo 22mm Allen key!

Its probably too tight for that, buy a 22mm headed bolt from a trade shop then heat, bend 90deg, and hey presto the poor mans allen key!
Thank me by way of sexual favours..

[Fatjim]

Sweet. Please do. I just measured it and its 24mm inside.

I have a spark plug socket that has a 24mm hex on it, but I don't have a 13/16 bolt to use in it.

All I can say is "Fuck you Suzuki".

I'm getting a ghey Honda next. At least they use real parts.

[Pex Adams]

I've got the bolt at home ya twit:oi-grr:!

Why are you taking the wheel off?

[Fatjim]

To fit some new Pilot road2s you twit.

[FROSTY]

Hey Jim I made a handy dandy removal tool.
I got a m16x25 High tensile bolt (24mm head) and a 1/2 drive single hex 14mm socket -From an el cheapo set.
I ground a crude hex into the bolt thread and tapped it into the socket.
4 quick tab welds with a mig and you have yaself a "genuine" axle removal tool
The advantage being you can use a rattle gun to loosen the axle or a ratchet :2thumbsup

[MSTRS]

Always a work-around, young James.
Tis good to see that Kiwi ingenuity is still alive and well...aka poor bastard's cunning.
:headbang::woohoo::laugh:

[cowboyz]

the 9 is the same. didnt realise until I got a punchure and had to take the wheel off. Real pain in the arse. Had to go hunting to make up a tool for it but got it off without using a grinder and that is a good day.

[Fatjim]

What fucks me off is there is a 36mm spanner in the "tool kit" for the rear wheel, but nothing for the front. I know I know, the rear ones so you can adjust the chain, but ffs!

The VTR, I can get both wheels off with my socket set, not large nuts or "Allen keys" required.

[paturoa]

Ive got a double ended spark plug spanner thingie and one end is a perfect fit. I just put and old plug in the other end and use a crescent. Would suck if you didn't have a plug thingie just like mine though!

[homer]

just a thought

do you have a spark plug spanner in the bikes tool kit that just happens to fit inside the axel

[limbimtimwim]

Just get in there with a hacksaw and cut the axle ya knob.

Oh, you want to put the wheel back on.... I thought you were scrapping it.

[Fatjim]

All sorted. I'm now the proud owner of a special tool.

[Pex Adams]

All sorted. I'm now the proud owner of a special tool.

UUUUuuuummmmmm - I know this is tempting, its almost to good an opportunity to miss.. However I can't, it wouldn't be fair. The handsome, strong, and smart, need to look out for the ugly, stupid, and weak:baby::baby::baby:

[Robert Taylor]

Sweet. Please do. I just measured it and its 24mm inside.

I have a spark plug socket that has a 24mm hex on it, but I don't have a 13/16 bolt to use in it.

All I can say is "Fuck you Suzuki".

I'm getting a ghey Honda next. At least they use real parts.

Lighten up! If there was more metal in that axle it would be heavy contributing to unsprung weight. The sum total of a little bit shaved there, a bit down there etc is significant. I remember just how heavy and unwieldy my XS1100 was, a few years before ''lightness was being added''. Special multi fit adaptor pieces are able to be purchased for these axles and other variations e.g Race Tech. Proffessional mechanics ( I did say proffessional )will also have these in their toolboxes.

I really fail to understand why you are singling out Suzuki, every brand of motorcycle without exception has its quirks. Try taking a rear shock out of a 1098....would it be ''F..k you Ducati?''

I always see a huge irony in that little over half a century ago the yellow peril was trying to eradicate us from this earth. But now we see fierce loyalties for individual brands sourced from the same country. Conversely, a Dutchman that worked for my father was a pow to the Japanese for 4 years. He passed away 3 years ago and only purchased his first Japanese car 2 years prior to that, somewhat reluctantly.
Funny old world.

[Fatjim]

Mate, my tongue was firmly in my cheek when I said that.

However, to some extent I was justified. Special tools for doing stuff that you'd expect the average jockey to do in his garage??????


BTW, FWIW, to anyone that cares, the torque setting on the front axle was 80lbft, while the rear is 100lbft.

[Robert Taylor]

Mate, my tongue was firmly in my cheek when I said that.

However, to some extent I was justified. Special tools for doing stuff that you'd expect the average jockey to do in his garage??????


BTW, FWIW, to anyone that cares, the torque setting on the front axle was 80lbft, while the rear is 100lbft.

Thats the way of the world and to that extent I certainly dont expect it to give me a living. If we have to purchase extra tools then that is just a reality that has to be accepted and no one manufacturer can be singled out. if you look at the overall context of that SV1000 it is an extremely well priced motorcycle.....

[Squiggles]

ZZR250 has one for the same purpose, i just got one from the toolshop for ~$10 i think :)

[cowpoos]

is required to remove the front wheel on a sv1000.


FFS!!!!!!!!!!!!

Who's the prick who decided to put the biggest mutha of an allen key (~22mm) on the end of the front axle. How many people have allen drivers that large in their tool kit.


Now I'm pissed.

the simple soloution is a $3 item at a engineering supply outlet... you want a 24mm tensioning nut...its about 10cm long...and has a 10mm internal thread reverse thread on one side..for tensioning things together..you don't use the thread obviously..I just added that to help with the discryption...but the whole thing fits inside you front axle and you stick a 24mm socket over it and turn...its one solid 24mm nut...and my one cost $3 :)

[roadracingoldfart]

Just get in there with a hacksaw and cut the axle ya knob.

Oh, you want to put the wheel back on.... I thought you were scrapping it.


Your going down the correct path young man :niceone:
All you need to do is after hacksawing it off is to Mig Weld a Munsters type bolt to the bit you cut off and then crank it up with a pipe wrench. It can double as a front stand lug.
If you buy hard touring tyres you could expect to leave them on for along time and just Mig the axle to the fork leg if its easier. :msn-wink:

[cowpoos]

Your going down the correct path young man :niceone:
All you need to do is after hacksawing it off is to Mig Weld a Munsters type bolt to the bit you cut off and then crank it up with a pipe wrench. It can double as a front stand lug.
If you buy hard touring tyres you could expect to leave them on for along time and just Mig the axle to the fork leg if its easier. :msn-wink:
blimmin honda riders!!! man you guys talk rubbish!!

[Fatjim]

Your going down the correct path young man :niceone:
All you need to do is after hacksawing it off is to Mig Weld a Munsters type bolt to the bit you cut off and then crank it up with a pipe wrench. It can double as a front stand lug.
If you buy hard touring tyres you could expect to leave them on for along time and just Mig the axle to the fork leg if its easier. :msn-wink:

Shit, now you finally get a sense of humour. Wasn't so difficult after all.

[classic zed]

I just bought shiny new Snap-On Hex Sockets only about $75 each :niceone:

[skidMark]

Sweet. Please do. I just measured it and its 24mm inside.

I have a spark plug socket that has a 24mm hex on it, but I don't have a 13/16 bolt to use in it.

All I can say is "Fuck you Suzuki".

I'm getting a ghey Honda next. At least they use real parts.


It's so muppets like you who don't know what they are doing don't fuck with shit.

Suzukis fall apart enough as is without you mucking with it

[MaxB]

I use the cut down bolt trick for the Kwak tool kit. If I'm going away the original hexes are way too bulky.

The other thing I do is buy the correct Allen key and a cheap matching socket eg 22mm. Then I cut the end off the long side of the key and tack weld (or epoxy) it to the socket. Seems to work.

[yod]

It's so muppets like you who don't know what they are doing don't fuck with shit.

Suzukis fall apart enough as is without you mucking with it

ah, so they're kinda like kawasakis....just better quality

[skidMark]

I just bought shiny new Snap-On Hex Sockets only about $75 each :niceone:


EACH? per socket or for a set of metric then another 75 for a set of imperial?

If $75 a piece. whats your job and are you hiring.

[classic zed]

EACH? per socket or for a set of metric then another 75 for a set of imperial?

If $75 a piece. whats your job and are you hiring.

I think that was each, I bought them a while ago, I run a garage and work on cars and bikes so I use them all the time, you cant beat quality tools:niceone:

[sAsLEX]

you cant beat quality tools:niceone:

I think it was Motu who took a 15 odd year old socket back that had been hammered in the workshop and had given up the ghost, lifetime warranty though and he got a new one!

[cowboyz]

but surely that would have been the end of its life. therefore the end of the warrenty?

[classic zed]

I think it was Motu who took a 15 odd year old socket back that had been hammered in the workshop and had given up the ghost, lifetime warranty though and he got a new one!

True enoigh, I have a 13mm spanner which I had used every day for over 12 years, one day I picked it up and noticed the chrome was chipped on the end, Snap On replaced it without question :2thumbsup

[Patch]

i made some up for the gixxer

what did was get a big nut/bolt that fit in the hole

then weld the nut to bolt, and then all ya do is bang the bolt head in the hole, get a spanner and lossen/tighten by the nut, and front wheel comes out

aka

http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2206/2233171059_ba62594e19.jpg
http://farm3.static.flickr.com/2113/2233923660_19eab3af1a.jpg

The above is a fancy looking version of what i did, i got welder out instead, and it now sits in my toolkit on bike, for if anything happens on road side alsowhich pannier bag do you keep your front axle stand in? or is that fancy nut there to keep the other nut company?



Fark letting any of you country numpy monkeys near anything mechanical I own. :shit: 22mm allen key indeed!

[Devil]

For you Auckland fulla's. You can just visit Waitemata Hydraulics and buy a hex head socket. Bought one for the triumph, $20, 1/2" drive. Works great.

[merv]

I'm seeing the story here though, Jim is quite right you'd expect the toolkit supplied at least to have means of removing the front wheel and he's saying that his Honda does.

That's why I always jokingly call Suzukis parts bin specials - the lowly paid workers at the factory just keep grabbing parts out of bins no matter which model they are putting together and it doesn't matter whether the bits go logically together or not or whether the toolkit is right and matches the bits. Hell to sort that out you need decent designers but you don't get them on what budget sales can afford.

[TLDV8]

is required to remove the front wheel on a sv1000.


FFS!!!!!!!!!!!!

Who's the prick who decided to put the biggest mutha of an allen key (~22mm) on the end of the front axle. How many people have allen drivers that large in their tool kit.


Now I'm pissed.

In their wisdom they made it a pain (compared to a 27mm 6 point socket before) and the weight difference between the newer internal hex axle and the older SRAD/TL/Hayabusa axle is almost nothing (it was wider also)
If the SV has the same 214mm fork spacing as the TL,the weight saving would be zip.
I machined a alloy hex but was lucky enough to have the machine tools to do it.

<img src= http://i30.photobucket.com/albums/c345/manurewa/Axles.jpg>

[Fatjim]

Yeah thats the other thing. Every time I have to use my front wheel stand I have to adjust it cause the SV is wider than the VTR.


Farking Suzukis!!!!!!