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Mikkel
22nd February 2008, 21:35
Hi guys,

I did a search and found a lot of good advice on how to lube throttle cables and such. However - no advice on how to get to those bloody cables.

Anyway, it's a 1989 Kawasaki ZXR250A and since tuesday it has been developing some resistance in the throttle (and something that feels a bit like a kink...).

I've had the switchbox/throttle handle thingymabob disassembled and put back together but am a bit unsure on how to go about actually getting hold of the bloody cable and lubing it. Anyone got some good suggestions?

Also, I got some bicycle chain lube, some motorcycle chainlube, some 15W40 engine oil and some 2-stroke oil - which would be better for lubing the cables and what would be the ideal product?

Hope anyone can shed some insight on the matter.

Cheers
Mikkel

MIZXR
22nd February 2008, 22:45
pull the cables out of the handgrip and check for frayed or badly bent cable
get a small plastic bag, sealable type prefered, fill with standard engine oil and tape the bag to the top of the cable so the oil travels down the inside of the cable leave over night and the cable will be oiled

place cloth at bottom of the cable

or buy a cable oiler

skidMark
22nd February 2008, 22:47
Hi guys,

I did a search and found a lot of good advice on how to lube throttle cables and such. However - no advice on how to get to those bloody cables.

Anyway, it's a 1989 Kawasaki ZXR250A and since tuesday it has been developing some resistance in the throttle (and something that feels a bit like a kink...).

I've had the switchbox/throttle handle thingymabob disassembled and put back together but am a bit unsure on how to go about actually getting hold of the bloody cable and lubing it. Anyone got some good suggestions?

Also, I got some bicycle chain lube, some motorcycle chainlube, some 15W40 engine oil and some 2-stroke oil - which would be better for lubing the cables and what would be the ideal product?

Hope anyone can shed some insight on the matter.

Cheers
Mikkel

Remove gas tank and entire airbox. Then take off the cables.

sefer
22nd February 2008, 23:56
Remove gas tank and entire airbox. Then take off the cables.

Just make sure you put them back in the same place. First time I removed mine I routed them wrong and was suddenly going quite fast every time I turned the bars too far :)

skidMark
23rd February 2008, 00:02
Just make sure you put them back in the same place. First time I removed mine I routed them wrong and was suddenly going quite fast every time I turned the bars too far :)


I have done that before, gets interesting very quickly! I have owned 3 ZXR's now, had alot of "Oops" I didn't do that quite right along the way to learning them.

In saying this, without stuffing up things what would be the fun!

Mark.

fredie
23rd February 2008, 01:34
wd40 is the best lube for your cables . come on dudes:doctor:

Mikkel
23rd February 2008, 01:54
Cheers for the replies guys!


And for the millionth time mikkel change your "bike" man

It is not an RR....don't disgrace a beautiful kawasaki by describing it as a honda

I hope you realise that I've left the bike as is simply because it does annoy you. No one else cares... ;)

But you're right it's either a ZXR250A1 or ZXR250B1. And I realised that some time ago...


wd40 is the best lube for your cables . come on dudes:doctor:

WD40? You sure? :crazy:

xwhatsit
23rd February 2008, 01:58
WD40 seems to do a pretty good job, actually.

Several people now have recommended sewing machine oil for cables. Still haven't seen it in the shops, though.

skidMark
23rd February 2008, 02:22
WD40 seems to do a pretty good job, actually.

Several people now have recommended sewing machine oil for cables. Still haven't seen it in the shops, though.

Um a sewing shop perhaps. Do you goto the motorbike shop to buy the bucket you use when washing your bike?

skidMark
23rd February 2008, 02:25
Mikkel i will talk you through how to do it (in response to your rep) add me on msn dude...

brngiton@hotmail.com

Patch
23rd February 2008, 07:14
Um a sewing shop perhaps.
Its called Spotlight.


Remove cable and soak in kero.
Blow dry.
Oil with WD40 not CRC 5.56 (some mistake crc for an oil - it is not) or whatever oil you want, WD is the thinnest and easiest to use - hence the recommendation.

or

buy a new cable.

FROSTY
23rd February 2008, 08:49
Modern cables have a teflon liner inside the outer cable so it slides easily.
Before bothering to lube your cables (which may still need doing) I would be checking on a few other things.
1)ensure the twist grip isnt the culprit.-check its turning smoothly on the bar and that the bar end isnt acting as a cruise control.
2)Likewise the switchblock may be slightly damaged
3) ensure the cables are routed by a smooth curve -no sharp kinks.
4)ensure that the mechanism on the carbs is working smoothly
5)repeating other advice--check both ends of the cables are in good condition-no fraying etc.

Mikkel
23rd February 2008, 09:21
Incorrect.....

A1 = 1989 (boring box section swingarm)

A2 = 1990 (kiss arm awingarm which was also used on all c models)

B = 1990 ish AFAIK styled like an A model....don't know what the differences were. never seen one in real life. (pass)

C1 = 1991

C2 = 1992

C3 = 1993

Taadaa. SM.

Guess it's an A1 then ;)


Mikkel i will talk you through how to do it (in response to your rep) add me on msn dude...

brngiton@hotmail.com

I actually don't use msn. But I'll look at making a profile when I get back to a proper internet connection (at uni - monday most likely).


Its called Spotlight.


Remove cable and soak in kero.
Blow dry.
Oil with WD40 not CRC 5.56 (some mistake crc for an oil - it is not) or whatever oil you want, WD is the thinnest and easiest to use - hence the recommendation.

or

buy a new cable.


Modern cables have a teflon liner inside the outer cable so it slides easily.
Before bothering to lube your cables (which may still need doing) I would be checking on a few other things.
1)ensure the twist grip isnt the culprit.-check its turning smoothly on the bar and that the bar end isnt acting as a cruise control.
2)Likewise the switchblock may be slightly damaged
3) ensure the cables are routed by a smooth curve -no sharp kinks.
4)ensure that the mechanism on the carbs is working smoothly
5)repeating other advice--check both ends of the cables are in good condition-no fraying etc.

Thanks for the advice guys! I'll have a play around with it sometime today.

Mikkel
23rd February 2008, 14:12
Imdying gave me a hand with it and we did the plastic bag thing, chucked some dry lube in there and now it's running much much sweeter than ever before.

Cheers

MIZXR
23rd February 2008, 17:53
see easier than removing cables.