Evidence against USD forks

[Morcs]

Ladies and gentlemen of the court,

Evidence has come to light, for appeal against Skidmarks overwhelming wank wank over Upside down forks (USDs)


Last weekend I noticed the usually awesome brakes on the TL werent so Awesome.

5 days later I realised Ive gone and got a farked fork seal on the right side.

What has happened is that the oil has pissed out all over my right disk, rendering it completely useless.

Not only that but on USDs, due to gravity, the oil gets flung downwards far easier, making a perished seal much harder to detect.

Of course with shit normal way up forks (NWUs) the oil tends to stay on the shiny bit, and is very difficult to drip and fling all over the discs.

I rest my case.

Discuss.

[Patch]

Ladies and gentlemen of the court,

Last weekend I noticed the usually awesome brakes on the TL werent so Awesome.

5 days later I realised Ive gone and got a farked fork seal on the right side.


3 things.

Ain't no ladies here - they're all Bitches with big sticky beaks.

stock TL's don't have awesome brakes, they're shit.

5 farkin days with your eyes closed, no wonder you get pulled over all the time - open your eyes sonny.

Case closed.

[Coyote]

USD's are on MotoGP bikes

Nuff said.

[Skunk]

USD's are on MotoGP bikes

Nuff said.
Racetracks are smooth.
Go the NWU.

[Coyote]

Racetracks are smooth.
Go the NWU.
Are USD's not so effective over bumps?

Why do Motocrossers have them then?

[Skunk]

Style over substance. :killingme

[Conquiztador]

Leading link anyone...

[Skunk]

Leading link anyone...
I'll buy that for a dollar.

[pete376403]

Hossack forks - the oil is somewhere else altogether

[Skunk]

Hossack forks - the oil is somewhere else altogether
Call it a Duolever... or 'that Britten front end' like everyone else.

Here's a few others:
Girder Fork
Trailing Link Fork
Leading Link Fork
Springer fork
Earles fork
Saxon-Motodd (Telelever) fork
Fior fork (Hossack)
Coaxial steering front suspension
Centre hub
RADD

[FJRider]

In PERFECT conditions... EVERYTHING works perfectly. Bolt it on a SUZUKI... less than perfect conditions... CAN"T work PERFECTLY...nuff said...next thread.

[homer]

USD's are on MotoGP bikes

Nuff said.

so was pro arm ?

whats your point
they dont use it any more

[Brett]

It was with dawning amazement that I realised that my forks are acutally just there for decoration. So I filled them up solid and welded them fast. Makes stoppies hard though.

[Coyote]

so was pro arm ?

whats your point
they dont use it any more
My point was I was being a dick.

Style over substance al da wae bro

[texmo]

USD forks create less unpsrung weight making your bike handle far better. They make you corner better stop faster and pretty much improve the whole ride.

[steveb64]

Ladies and gentlemen of the court,

Evidence has come to light, for appeal against Skidmarks overwhelming wank wank over Upside down forks (USDs)


Last weekend I noticed the usually awesome brakes on the TL werent so Awesome.

5 days later I realised Ive gone and got a farked fork seal on the right side.

What has happened is that the oil has pissed out all over my right disk, rendering it completely useless.

Not only that but on USDs, due to gravity, the oil gets flung downwards far easier, making a perished seal much harder to detect.

Of course with shit normal way up forks (NWUs) the oil tends to stay on the shiny bit, and is very difficult to drip and fling all over the discs.

I rest my case.

Discuss.

What makes you think RWU forks have some sort of anti-gravity device in them? The times (a couple) I've blown seals on RWU's - the oil has managed to run down the outside of the fork leg, and insinuate itself into the guts of the brakes very nicely. :( It MOST definitely did NOT want to stay anywhere near the shiny bits. ...I wish it had... :argh:

+1 for the troll, BUT -1 for taking 5 days to notice that oil was pissing all over your brakes - AFTER you'd noticed the drop in brake performance! :bleh:

[madandy]

What he said ^^^
brake fluid on tyres aint a good look neither ;)

[bungbung]

If your seals are going to leak, it's normally far more likely on USD forks for two reasons:

The stanchions are more susceptible to stone chip damage
When they are leaking, the oil sitting on the seal under gravity is pumped out.

Whereas leaking rwu forks usually leak a whole lot less.

[gijoe1313]

Wheres Ixion and all the other older curmugdeons? They will be muttering dark and portentous utterings like "...forks? Suspensions? Pfeh! In our day, we only had two sticks and we had to hold onto them! Luxury!"

I remember when a fork seal blew on my little ol'hornet when I was doing SH22, ended up with a pucker moment when I went to use them and... woo woo! :pinch: :sick:

Pulled over and oil was merrily making itself onto the brake disc! :doh: Alls well, got home and learnt how to change forkseals and such! :yes:

USD RWU forks ... I think in future there will be free floating magneto suspension systems which will obviate the need for said arguments!

"In my day, we had these two little metal tubes that kept the wheels on! And they bounced up and down they did!"

[Mikkel]

If your seals are going to leak, it's normally far more likely on USD forks for two reasons:

The stanchions are more susceptible to stone chip damage
When they are leaking, the oil sitting on the seal under gravity is pumped out.

Whereas leaking rwu forks usually leak a whole lot less.

True USD fork seals are more vulnerable. However, if you take good care of your bike the advantages should outweigh the disadvantages - that being said, there's a lot of wank going on about this subject!

On RWU forks you have to remove bugs on the forkarms before they dry and become hard - otherwise that can fuck the seals as well.

On USD forks the front mud guard usually provide substantial protection against the evils of the road!

[FROSTY]

To add to the discussion is my bitter little tale with my race SV650.
We set up the front end on my sv as best we could with spacer adjustment oil viscosity and springs.
Still no good I decided to go to USD forks
well I wish like heck I'd stuck with right way up and saved my money -in that for about 1000 RT could have built me a really trick set of fork internals for the factory forks

[Mikkel]

To add to the discussion is my bitter little tale with my race SV650.
We set up the front end on my sv as best we could with spacer adjustment oil viscosity and springs.
Still no good I decided to go to USD forks
well I wish like heck I'd stuck with right way up and saved my money -in that for about 1000 RT could have built me a really trick set of fork internals for the factory forks

But now you can make a really trick set of fork internals for the USD ones which ought to be even better ;)

At least SM might consider cheering for you trackside now - not a honda and it has USDs...

[madandy]

To add to the discussion is my bitter little tale with my race SV650.
We set up the front end on my sv as best we could with spacer adjustment oil viscosity and springs.
Still no good I decided to go to USD forks
well I wish like heck I'd stuck with right way up and saved my money -in that for about 1000 RT could have built me a really trick set of fork internals for the factory forks

What USD forks did you use & what parts did you trick them up with Tony?

[avrflr]

From Wikipedia:
"Conventionally, the fork sliders are at the top of the fork assembly, clamped to a triple tree, also called a yoke, pivoting around the headstock, and sliding in and out of the spring/damper unit at the bottom of the assembly. On many sport bikes, this system is inverted, with the spring/damper unit clamped to the yoke while the sliders are at the bottom of the assembly. This is done for two reasons: to reduce unsprung weight by having the heavier components be suspended, and to improve the strength and rigidity of the assembly by having the bulkier and stronger component being directly supported by the pivot.[2] Such a system is referred to by many as upside-down forks or USD for short."

They put USDs on sportsbikes and dirtbikes because they go to a lot of effort to make them light and handle as well as they possibly can. If they put RWU forks on your bike, it's because they weren't trying that hard.

Forks are crap anyway. They are the wrong engineering solution to the problem of suspending the front end of a motorbike. There are examples of niche manufacturers (e.g. Britten, BMW, MotoCzysz) who have some variation of the "front end swingarm" that work extremely well.

[clint640]

Lightness? Handling? who cares, it's all about bling bro, yo' wheels have to look like you tha Motogp an MX1 shizz :Punk: an USD iz the phat goods fo' that! :yes:

Actually, it's the general consensus that the WP 50mm Extreme RWU forks fitted to earlier versions of my bike were superior to the first of the 43mm USD ones fitted to later models. USD definitely doesn't always mean better.

Clint

[Morcs]

What makes you think RWU forks have some sort of anti-gravity device in them? The times (a couple) I've blown seals on RWU's - the oil has managed to run down the outside of the fork leg, and insinuate itself into the guts of the brakes very nicely. :( It MOST definitely did NOT want to stay anywhere near the shiny bits. ...I wish it had... :argh:

+1 for the troll, BUT -1 for taking 5 days to notice that oil was pissing all over your brakes - AFTER you'd noticed the drop in brake performance! :bleh:

Well my fluid had gone brown, and my first reaction was to order new fluid, pads etc.

[skidMark]

Ladies and gentlemen of the court,

Evidence has come to light, for appeal against Skidmarks overwhelming wank wank over Upside down forks (USDs)


Last weekend I noticed the usually awesome brakes on the TL werent so Awesome.

5 days later I realised Ive gone and got a farked fork seal on the right side.

What has happened is that the oil has pissed out all over my right disk, rendering it completely useless.

Not only that but on USDs, due to gravity, the oil gets flung downwards far easier, making a perished seal much harder to detect.

Of course with shit normal way up forks (NWUs) the oil tends to stay on the shiny bit, and is very difficult to drip and fling all over the discs.

I rest my case.

Discuss.


Did you think to perhaps wipe down your fork stanchons after each ride as you are meant to with USD forks?

[skidMark]

Call it a Duolever... or 'that Britten front end' like everyone else.

Here's a few others:
Girder Fork
Trailing Link Fork
Leading Link Fork
Springer fork
Earles fork
Saxon-Motodd (Telelever) fork
Fior fork (Hossack)
Coaxial steering front suspension
Centre hub
RADD

I'm pretty sure the Britten bike had Cavantalier type setup (sorry can't spell it)

[Morcs]

Did you think to perhaps wipe down your fork stanchons after each ride as you are meant to with USD forks?

Its not like a go for a once a week sunday afternoon ride.

They get cleaned as and when the bike gets washed - usually fortnightly.

Unless ive been riding in rain and mud, then a hose down is always good.

I have a rag wrapped around the stanchon and cable tied so it doesnt fall down. Seems to be keeping some of the oil away.

[skidMark]

True USD fork seals are more vulnerable. However, if you take good care of your bike the advantages should outweigh the disadvantages - that being said, there's a lot of wank going on about this subject!

On RWU forks you have to remove bugs on the forkarms before they dry and become hard - otherwise that can fuck the seals as well.

On USD forks the front mud guard usually provide substantial protection against the evils of the road!


Ummm yeah about that, my mates just bought me a crashed CBR.

It's going to become a RBC though.

Putting the ZXR's front end in it all going to plan.

so it will be like VFR and RVF and RVF is a VFR with USD's, thus CBR becomes RCB.

MmMmM a CBR thatll go around corners. w00t.

[skidMark]

Its not like a go for a once a week sunday afternoon ride.

They get cleaned as and when the bike gets washed - usually fortnightly.

Unless ive been riding in rain and mud, then a hose down is always good.

I have a rag wrapped around the stanchon and cable tied so it doesnt fall down. Seems to be keeping some of the oil away.

Nah man you have to get down there by hand loop a rag around them and move like your buffing it up...gotta get al lthe way around the back, doesnt mean ya wont blow a seal. Just means not as easily.

Either way though, if they were WWU (wrong way up...yer damn straight!) forks, a blown seal is a blown seal.

[Disco Dan]

Does it REALLY matter.... *sigh*

Seems to me unless your racing in motoGP then it does not matter too much... :baby:

[skidMark]

Does it REALLY matter.... *sigh*

Seems to me unless your racing in motoGP then it does not matter too much... :baby:

Your forks bent disco.

[Mikkel]

so it will be like VFR and RVF and RVF is a VFR with USD's, thus CBR becomes RBC.

Hmmm, I'm not entirely sure if that is indeed the entire truth of that... ;)

[skidMark]

Hmmm, I'm not entirely sure if that is indeed the entire truth of that... ;)


Well RVF has Carbs with flat sided carb sliders (not flat carbs)

And USD's....

So nya nya :girlfight:

[ManDownUnder]

Yawn.

Lots of wanking between people that can't ride well enough to appreciate or benefit from the differences...

USD, RWU, WMD, JPY, NZD, GBP and TLA (just to throw a few other relevant acronyms in there...)

[skidMark]

Yawn.

Lots of wanking between people that can't ride well enough to appreciate or benefit from the differences...



Speak for yaself.

I'm the fecking man. :shutup: :woohoo:

[ManDownUnder]

Speak for yaself.

I'm the fecking man. :shutup: :woohoo:

And I'm a fecking license holder.... your point is?

[Mikkel]

Anyone actually give a fork? :shifty:

[steveb64]

Well my fluid had gone brown, and my first reaction was to order new fluid, pads etc.

Bugger. Oh well - at least you have half the bits you need! :whistle: It's better to replace yer pads if they've been oil soaked - and new brake fluid NEVER hurts!

You going to fix your forks yourself? ...if you are, then get a Haynes (www.haynes.co.uk) manual - I had one when I stripped the USD's apart on my Ducati - brilliant manual, and even gave a template/instructions on how to build a couple of 'special' tools to get the forks apart!

[FROSTY]

What USD forks did you use & what parts did you trick them up with Tony?
Ok Its a sad tale really.
First it was a factory set of GSXR750 forks/tripples from srad or a the model right after.-Anyhoo the forks were straight and undamaged inside n out.
I fitted them to the SV With not too much trouble I must say.
NO experience with setting up USD forks I took the bike out for a ride at PUkie.
By the fact that the usd forks are 20mm shorter than SV ones right away the bike turned quicker and other than bottoming out the internals worked so much better than the factory forks I thought --shit hot -right track here.
Then I gave the bike to Brownie at colemans.He got in a set of springs that were 30mm longer than the ones in it as well as being 1.1
No internal valving was done just fresh oil
Another ride at pukie and it felt bloody good everywhere except at the hairpin where the front end sledged terrebly.
I refered to various people with more experience than me who by twiddling knobs n stuff improved it a bit --but still that scarey --oMG THE FRONTS BOTTOMING OUT AND POGOING
That "setup" was still good enough to get 1.07 at pukie--grinding boots and kneescrapers and having a jolly good ol time-but still scarey at the hairpin Then the "big guns" came to town. Ther bikes had the back end about 50mm higher than mine and they diddnt have clearance issues.-and for sure they were braking 50-100m after I dared to.
So I had my rear shock modified to raise the back end -which then emphasised just how shit the front end was.
Dougal rode the bike and said something to the effect of--"this is friggin scarey"
So over the phone advice from Shaun Harris and the static sag was measured -hmm--wot sag??
The preload spacers were shortened by 16mm and the whole plot bolted back together
Hmm--should be better right--WRONG
Darn thing was a pig to get to turn and when it did it diddnt want to stay on a line.
MY BIG mistake right then was not asking for help- RT sat there -laughing at the pink pig and the terrible setup. It had
Shaun just shook his head -waqiting for this stuborn prick to ask for help
Meanwhile I got in a blue funk and blamed the whole issue on ME and my riding --has to be my riding --the bikes gotta be right.
Shaun did some work on it that made a Huge improvement once you are riding the bike FAST -But I was by now so miserable I was riding well--fucking slow --barely cracking 1.09 at pukie
Then I had a decent er--well "incident"
As things stand now the front end is in the hands of a KB mechanic called OZZIE -good bloke --spannerd for some unknow called sherrifs -carl or craig or summat like that.
He's rebuilt the shocks again. First of all to make sure they aint bent this time for me and my bike. Hes modified the shim stacks,changed the springs,rebuilt the spacers and done some other techie stuff thats over my head.
Test of the pud as they say is in the eating --so thanks to the guys at Kiwi Rider Im gonna be doing some laps of Taupo on the beast mid april -theyre creatting a class just for me--super slow

[westie]

I believe BTF forks should be employed.

Really if you weren't trying to do wheelies all the time MORCS then the forks would probably be ok.

On another note, if you wait long enough then the fork oil drains out and eventually its all gone.(must get around to replacing my fork seals, but they're RWU forks so whats the point!)

[n0regret5]

I'm pretty sure the Britten bike had Cavantalier type setup (sorry can't spell it)

cantilever?
heres a shock..the cantilever is the same as a girder is the same as a hossack is the same as a duolever..ok the duolever is the odd one out cos its still running a set of forks..
why not go for the ultimate in handling options? though apparently it reduces your 'feel' for the road;

[steveb64]

Ok Its a sad tale really.
First it was a factory set of GSXR750 forks/tripples from srad or a the model right after.-Anyhoo the forks were straight and undamaged inside n out.
I fitted them to the SV With not too much trouble I must say.
NO experience with setting up USD forks I took the bike out for a ride at PUkie.
By the fact that the usd forks are 20mm shorter than SV ones right away the bike turned quicker and other than bottoming out the internals worked so much better than the factory forks I thought --shit hot -right track here.
Then I gave the bike to Brownie at colemans.He got in a set of springs that were 30mm longer than the ones in it as well as being 1.1
No internal valving was done just fresh oil
Another ride at pukie and it felt bloody good everywhere except at the hairpin where the front end sledged terrebly.
I refered to various people with more experience than me who by twiddling knobs n stuff improved it a bit --but still that scarey --oMG THE FRONTS BOTTOMING OUT AND POGOING
That "setup" was still good enough to get 1.07 at pukie--grinding boots and kneescrapers and having a jolly good ol time-but still scarey at the hairpin Then the "big guns" came to town. Ther bikes had the back end about 50mm higher than mine and they diddnt have clearance issues.-and for sure they were braking 50-100m after I dared to.
So I had my rear shock modified to raise the back end -which then emphasised just how shit the front end was.

That's an interesting one! My 5c worth - change the oil again to something with a bit more viscosity (to give more damping for both compression and rebound), increase the amount of oil in the forks (from standard) - which progressively increases the spring rate - particularly at (or approaching) full travel.

Umm - you did check that you were getting full travel by putting a small cable tie around the fork leg, and measuring where it was being pushed to?

I was going to say "and reduce either the rear ride height, or the rear preload - so the back of the bike sits a bit lower, which will help counter the lower front ride height." - then spotted the last bit of your post... ...was that 50mm extra height when they were sitting on the bike, or off it? I suspect that your clearance problems stem more from the front end being shorter (20mm is a LOT), than the back not being high enough... ...and making the back taller, when the front is already too short will usually make poor handling even worse. :pinch:

I admit to being kind of surprised that you needed to change the springs at all - I would have though that both bikes (yours and the donor) would be a fairly similar weight? Was that to try and increase the front ride height? Maybe go back to original springs, just with a bit more oil?
Or bite the bullet, and use the 750 forks as a trade-in on a longer set... :soon:

One other heads up - years back, I converted my old GSX11 from 19" front 17" rear to 18" front and back, with the end result being that it steered a hell of a lot quicker. However, it did some really weird things to the countersteering - like I'd countersteer to start the initial lean/turn in, but as the corner tightened up, the countersteering would disappear (go neutral), and then as the corner got even tighter, I'd end up positive (turning the bars IN) steering through the corners! Was a really odd feeling, but it worked! - Trials done on the Rimutakas!
I blamed it on the steeper steering head angles, due to the wheel size changes. I also ended up stretching the front out (max preload, more oil, AND air) to maximise my ground clearance... Used to scare the crap out of some of the Vic club riders, when they saw it flapping and bucking it's way over the hill :eek: - just stood up on the pegs a bit, and rode it like a MXer! :headbang:

Hey! You added more! Oh well... sounds like you're in good hands... :done:

Following is from an Ohlins manual: (For MX forks - but basic theory still applies)


Oil level adjustment
As the air trapped between the oil and the top nut acts as an air-spring, a change in oil level will effect the damping forces. Not in the early stage of fork travel, but a great deal in the later stage.
The air-spring gives the Öhlins USD fork a progressive spring rate, preventing it from bottoming out hard.
By using different combinations of springs and oil levels/air-springs you can alter the characteristic of the fork and tailor it to suit different tracks and conditions.
CAUTION!
The oil level must be the same in both front fork legs.
When the oil level is raised: The air-spring in the later half of travel is strong, and thus the front fork hard.
When the oil level is lowered: The air-spring in the later half of travel is soft, and thus the front fork soft.
CAUTION!
Adjust the oil level with the fork leg fully compressed and no pre-load washer or spring installed.
NOTE!
See Mounting Instructions for recommended oil level.
The oil level is measured from the top of the outer leg, with the top nut off.
Changes in oil level should be made in small steps. We recommend a change of 5 mm at a time and not outside the range of 80-130 mm.

[FROSTY]

Short version.I fucked up and now a suspension expert has the forks set to a reasonable baseline for me to start from.
I really want to give the final chapter to this sorry tale but untill I can ride the beast again I cant

[Morcs]

Well RVF has Carbs with flat sided carb sliders (not flat carbs)

And USD's....

So nya nya :girlfight:

Dont get me started on RVFs. We all know I am the authority on them.


Bugger. Oh well - at least you have half the bits you need! :whistle: It's better to replace yer pads if they've been oil soaked - and new brake fluid NEVER hurts!

You going to fix your forks yourself? ...if you are, then get a Haynes (www.haynes.co.uk (http://www.haynes.co.uk)) manual - I had one when I stripped the USD's apart on my Ducati - brilliant manual, and even gave a template/instructions on how to build a couple of 'special' tools to get the forks apart!

Yeah I grabbed some pads and seals already.

Gonna drop in to treads first thing sunday morning and ask Mike to do it. He will be stoked.

Dont have the tools at home to do works, or the workspace (no bench)

[Morcs]

cantilever?
heres a shock..the cantilever is the same as a girder is the same as a hossack is the same as a duolever..ok the duolever is the odd one out cos its still running a set of forks..
why not go for the ultimate in handling options? though apparently it reduces your 'feel' for the road;

I rode an Italjet Dragster 180 scooter a few times which had a similar setup, which then was linked to a spring running through the centre of the chassis.

Found it really wierd as the front never dropped under braking. Combined with a 10'' front wheel (as opposed to 13'' rear) and a tiny disk with virtually no front braking, it was pretty shit.

[n0regret5]

yeh i remember those babies..they were a good idea like the suspension on the back of my bike. 'innovative' is the word they use, i choose..'late-night-kareoke-with-sake-shooters-off-a-young-nubile-girl-and-omigod-i've-got-an-idea'..

the tesi is supposed to handle really well, and i met a guy a wee while back who had converted his zzr1100 after reading tony foales design book, absolutely loved the way he could run through corners on such a fatass bike.

[steveb64]

Short version.I fucked up and now a suspension expert has the forks set to a reasonable baseline for me to start from.
I really want to give the final chapter to this sorry tale but untill I can ride the breast again I cant

?! :lol: Now that little typo REALLY could lead to some fun... :D :niceone: Oh - hang on - didn't you say summat about it being pink? Not nipple pink? Errr... :rockon:

[zxcvbnm]

The only advantage USD have over RWU is the bigger tube for the triple clamps to hold on to and being bigger at the point of most leverage and controlling flex with the dia of the tube.

I think what made them work better was that that they changed to cartridge forks at the same time. USD was just a way to sell the added cost of the cartridge fork.

[skidMark]

I believe BTF forks should be employed.

Really if you weren't trying to do wheelies all the time MORCS then the forks would probably be ok.

On another note, if you wait long enough then the fork oil drains out and eventually its all gone.(must get around to replacing my fork seals, but they're RWU forks so whats the point!)


Yeah he just put one down pretty hard.

Hes got the seals and pads now, just hasn't fitted em.

[MVnut]

Surely this is a conspiracy to lull Skid into a false sense of security.:beer:

[cowpoos]

Oh for fuck sake...both types have virtues...ut it sounds like a whole lot of you are talk through a whole in your arses...frosty you sad tale of a shitty handling bike isn't relivent to this thread either... people go have a good read up on the suspension and chasiss forum...theres heaps of relivent and good info on there...

[homer]

True USD fork seals are more vulnerable. However, if you take good care of your bike the advantages should outweigh the disadvantages - that being said, there's a lot of wank going on about this subject!

On RWU forks you have to remove bugs on the forkarms before they dry and become hard - otherwise that can fuck the seals as well.

On USD forks the front mud guard usually provide substantial protection against the evils of the road!

On RWU forks would you just have the shock protectors
for bugs and stone chip

[FROSTY]

chill poos -

[McJim]

Oh for fuck sake...both types have virtues...ut it sounds like a whole lot of you are talk through a whole in your arses...frosty you sad tale of a shitty handling bike isn't relivent to this thread either... people go have a good read up on the suspension and chasiss forum...theres heaps of relivent and good info on there...

Ach everyone's takin' the piss fella. Anyway when you take USD forks to the UK they end up being RWU (Right Way Up) forks don't they? And when a set of USD forks on the front of a Daytona comes over from UK they und up RWU too!:rofl:

[skidMark]

On RWU forks would you just have the shock protectors
for bugs and stone chip

You could set some up for USD's too, most sportsbike front mudgaurds do the job, moto x bikes use plastic shields, they do the trick.

[Mikkel]

Fork it! Doesn't matter!

[skidMark]

Fork it! Doesn't matter!

It forking foes! You better watch what the fork your saying you you you ...you forking guy!

[Mikkel]

It forking foes! You better watch what the fork your saying you you you ...you forking guy!

So you're saying it's all about the forking forks? :crazy:

[skidMark]

So you're saying it's all about the forking forks? :crazy:

You forking knew that, don't play forking dumb with me, i can see right through those prongs.

:done:

fork you.

skidFork.

[terbang]

I've had both and to be honest its not the only thing I hang my hat on. I also know another thing that improves the handling of most bikes. It may be a surprise to some, but Its called the rider..!

[Mikkel]

I've had both and to be honest its not the only thing I hang my hat on. I also know another thing that improves the handling of most bikes. It may be a surprise to some, but Its called the rider..!

So how about tyres? :blip:

[skidMark]

I've had both and to be honest its not the only thing I hang my hat on. I also know another thing that improves the handling of most bikes. It may be a surprise to some, but Its called the rider..!


Indeed, but you can only push a shit bike so far.

[Bonez]

Indeed, but you can only push a shit bike so far.
You can only push ANY bike so far.

[Bonez]

Fork gaiters protect the seals and tubes better than any other form of shielding.
But they're unkwel bro.

[madandy]

My USD forks are weeping very slightly...I wonder - if I turn them RWU will the weeping stop and will the handling of the bike suffer?

[pete376403]

Call it a Duolever... or 'that Britten front end' like everyone else.

The correct name is Hossack cos Norman Hossack developed them - others, including BMW and Britten, took the idea further