removing Yamaha DT250 flywheel??

[750Y]

How do I get this off? I don't have the proper flywheel pulling tool & i don't fancy buying an overpriced genuine Yamaha part to use once. is there a backyard trick i can use? bush mechanics speak-up please. before anyone asks, my shed isn't wired for 3 phase yet so i can't weld anything up.

[Motu]

You need a special puller all right,there is an internal left hand thread in the flywheel - I have a couple,PM me if you want to come and get one.Otherwise the standard trick is a screwdriver or two behind the flywheel (if you can) then a good smack on the crank while applying pressure on the levers(put the nut back on the crank and use a soft faced hammer of course) If you are by yourself you will need all your limbs for this,toss the bike on it's side.

[merv]

1. Hopefully someone in your area will have a flywheel tool of some sort that will fit. 2. Otherwise, check out Repco for something that might work at hopefully a much lower price.

3. Failing all that there is the hammer solution, but take care. Tap the flywheel lightly around its circumference near the outer edge where your taps will be transmitting down to the centre and not at the inner edge where you might break the thing - the small taps can sometimes do wonders on flywheel tapers like they do loosening tapers on ball joints. Then you can wedge hard timber or the like between the back of the flywheel and the casings and use a large punch or the like and tap the end of the crankshaft - do what ever you have to to avoid rooting the thread, they usually have a well bevelled end. Don't get too carried away or else the thread will suffer. If it still doesn't come off you have to go back to options 1 or 2 i.e. borrow or buy a puller.

[merv]

OK Motu posted just as I was writing this - he has a puller - best you borrow it.

[750Y]

thanks guys, I'll carefully give the diy methods a shot, not much access to the back of the flywheel tho for screwdrivers. Failing that, I may take You up on that offer Motu, Thanks. BTW this is that bike i mentioned a few weeks back, ended up being a 76 DT250 same as in this pic.

[Motu]

But not in that condition eh? They had a ton of grunt for their era - but be careful on the dirt,they like to swap ends real quick! Twin shocks are almost unriderable off road these days,but some can still ride them fast.

[750Y]

But not in that condition eh? They had a ton of grunt for their era - but be careful on the dirt,they like to swap ends real quick! Twin shocks are almost unriderable off road these days,but some can still ride them fast.
lol, sadly she doesn't look anything like the pic 8-(.
the previous owner warned me that it had some 'power-thingy' that made it 'go faster all of a sudden'. It looks pretty basic to me but I imgaine it'll be a bumpy ride over uneven terrain. oh well time to get up off my ass for a change and stand on the pegs using my legs as shock absorbers lol 8-). i might get to like it & come eat some of your gravel one day motu. probably be good for me to come over to the dirty side for some fun.
as a matter of interest, what the hell are all those little rubber blocks that come with the triangle comb thing?

[digsaw]

umm sounds like yar got a spare reedvalve with it,and i got a puller for ti too

[Motu]

They could be quietening blocks that go into the cyl fins,without them they sound like a not very melodious steel drum band.Or yes,a reed valve block.Yamaha's of that era were quite sophisticated,they had 7 ports and reed valves which gave a wide power spead as compared to the piston porters with their knife edge power band.

[750Y]

um... right, these two strokes are bizarre, lol.

[merv]

thanks guys, I'll carefully give the diy methods a shot, not much access to the back of the flywheel tho for screwdrivers. Failing that, I may take You up on that offer Motu, Thanks. BTW this is that bike i mentioned a few weeks back, ended up being a 76 DT250 same as in this pic.

If you can only fit screwdrivers in behind and nothing softer like a wedge of timber be careful you don't bugger the gasket surface on the edge of the crankcase casting. As you've had the offers I would jump straight to borrowing a puller a forget taking any risks with your nice aluminium castings.

[750Y]

If you can only fit screwdrivers in behind and nothing softer like a wedge of timber be careful you don't bugger the gasket surface on the edge of the crankcase casting. As you've had the offers I would jump straight to borrowing a puller a forget taking any risks with your nice aluminium castings.

OK, had a go at the screwdriver method,(didn't damage anything but good point Merv). Looks like I'll be taking You up on that offer Motu. I'll PM You.
thanks for the help guys.

[2_SL0]

I can have a looksee if you want.

[750Y]

hey that'd be cool JB. do you have a puller? i can hopefully borrow motu's one then i'll be able to do it myself...
pm me
cheers
...Dave

[750Y]

well thanks all for the help & the offers guys, I appreciate that. I took it to a guy I know who took it off. when it was finally released it made a resounding yet satifsying CRACK! 8-) all good, so now the hard part... complete disassembly, new piston,rings & bearings. time to get the book me thinks.. & Motu You were right, the rear suspension sucks, lol.

[2_SL0]

I just got out my big hammer and cold chisel. Glad to hear its off, yell out if you want a hand.

[750Y]

yikes! lol. i do know a guy though that could use your help to remove the decals on his fazer, bring your tools... 8-)

[F5 Dave]

um, after market pullers that fit most jap flywheels are abundant in most shops & cost naff all, I dunno, mine was $15, well a billion years ago but even so. . .

To hold the flywheel to undo the bolt which likely you have already had done I got given this chain on vice grips tool which works brilliantly around a flywheel.

[2_SL0]

Would that be the Fzer that has to have the 250 decal fitted.

[750Y]

lol, i would never advocate such behaviour. not me nooooo

[1975 dt2500B]

Hey guys,

I got a 1975 DT250 B... i have striped the engine and painted it... looks really nice. I brought new points and coils and i wish to change them. I went out and got a fly wheel puller for $10 and i screw the external peice down into the fly wheel. I then wind down the internal screw down on the shaft.... i get the screw down as tight as i can but the fly wheel will NOT release for the life of me. Is there anything i am missing? Any tips? Do i have to split the casing?

Cheers
Damian.

[Ixion]

bloody big hammer.

EDIT What twattery buggered around with the BLOODY BIG HAMMER. Its called the BLOODY BIG HAMMER for a bloody good reason, it's not a puny pussy bloody big hammer.

[F5 Dave]

Nothing to do with splitting the cases, in fact that would be impossible without removing the flywheel.

OK first make sure the washer that lives under the nut is removed from the flywheel it can bind if left in there. It has obviously been on there a long time & is reluctant to part companies. Try applying heat sensibly. Maybe fan heater. Don’t go crazy with a oxy gas torch though.

Apply some oil on the threads & grease to the end of pushy bit. Tighten, use spanners on the body & nut of the puller. If it hasn’t popped then leave under tension & tap end with a medium size hammer. Nah ok use the biggest one you have & a smart tap. Don’t go crazy or you’ll bend the puller or crank.

If none of this works leave it on it’s side with some CRC for 3 days & try again.

[Wired1]

I just did one in the weekend on an old TT250 engine I was tearing down for parts. I had the proper puller and soaked it in CRC for three days and it was still f#*ken tight so I put the other end in the vice and wound the F#*ker up. It came off eventually but the clever little puller split the fly wheel end of the crank shaft down the middle like Robin Hood and his arrow trick. Just as well I wanted the cases and not the crank shaft I guess.