View Full Version : Spark plugs?
kiwi cowboy
29th March 2008, 17:53
hi all
well ive got a 83 cb900 bol dor in my garage.
fella i got it off said it needed carbes seen to eas why it was running rough.
i think it is running a bit rich by the look of the plugs anyway i put a new set of plugs in it and it ran great for about half an hour then went back to running shit again so i took the no 4 plug out and tested it and it was sparking blue so put one of the oridginal ones cleaned up back in started and ran fine again.
did i get a bum plug brand new or is there somthing wrong posibly somwere in the electrics that would fry the plug.
the thing is theres a spare plug in the tool kit which seems funny to me.
any coments.
cheers
TripleZee Dyno
30th March 2008, 06:43
hi all
well ive got a 83 cb900 bol dor in my garage.
fella i got it off said it needed carbes seen to eas why it was running rough.
i think it is running a bit rich by the look of the plugs anyway i put a new set of plugs in it and it ran great for about half an hour then went back to running shit again so i took the no 4 plug out and tested it and it was sparking blue so put one of the oridginal ones cleaned up back in started and ran fine again.
did i get a bum plug brand new or is there somthing wrong posibly somwere in the electrics that would fry the plug.
the thing is theres a spare plug in the tool kit which seems funny to me.
any coments.
cheers
Hey
I would go with the previous owners suggestion. Carbs do "wear out" amd go out of adjustment, especially if they have been around for 25yrs.
Unlikely anything electrical is fying the plugs.
jonbuoy
30th March 2008, 07:50
Plugs maybe fouling up with fuel and carbon, if you clean that plug up or dry it out it will probably go again, is it a pain to start? Time for the carbies to have a colonic...
kiwi cowboy
30th March 2008, 09:39
Plugs maybe fouling up with fuel and carbon, if you clean that plug up or dry it out it will probably go again, is it a pain to start? Time for the carbies to have a colonic...
no it starts fine just idles and runs rough.
any idea whot it costs to roco these and whot i need to get cheers
kiwi cowboy
30th March 2008, 09:43
Hey
I would go with the previous owners suggestion. Carbs do "wear out" amd go out of adjustment, especially if they have been around for 25yrs.
Unlikely anything electrical is fying the plugs.
cheers i have a set of carbs here that came with the bike that have been recoed [apperently] might take them to the shop and get them checked out.
have been told to try one grade hotter in the bike to stop carboning how would that go in the mean time any thoughts cheers
jonbuoy
30th March 2008, 11:44
You could go hotter but standard plugs should work fine, carb parts do wear out but might just need a clean out - no parts required.
What?
1st April 2008, 19:31
Sounds like the needles are worn out; this would be expected at around 50-60,000Km.
I think (dynamic memory kicking in here) that they will set you back about $35 per carb, plus labour if you are not that way inclined.
kiwi cowboy
1st April 2008, 19:52
Sounds like the needles are worn out; this would be expected at around 50-60,000Km.
I think (dynamic memory kicking in here) that they will set you back about $35 per carb, plus labour if you are not that way inclined.
yes maybe neddles they look ok but am told you cant see the wear its so minute so am getting a price for some cheers and bikes done 82000 ks but dunno bout the neddles but at least i can put them in myself
pete376403
1st April 2008, 22:07
The coils are probably as old as the carbs - weak spark wouldn't have enough energy to burn off crud. Something else to consider.
Kickaha
2nd April 2008, 05:22
have been told to try one grade hotter in the bike to stop carboning how would that go in the mean time any thoughts cheers
You're better of diagnosing it and fixing it properly, have you checked that the plugs in it are correct for the bike?
What?
4th April 2008, 11:30
You're better of diagnosing it and fixing it properly, have you checked that the plugs in it are correct for the bike?
Good point - should be NGK D8EA.
Katman
4th April 2008, 13:03
As has been mentioned, quite likely it's worn needles but you should always replace them in conjunction with the needle jets that they slide up and down in - which are even harder to actually see the wear in.
vifferman
4th April 2008, 13:07
Katman! :shit:
I thought you were going to be at the MotoTT trackday?
kiwi cowboy
4th April 2008, 21:41
Good point - should be NGK D8EA.
cheers everyone yup d8ea is wots in it and im also trying to get a new air filter as the one in it looks old and dirty and may not be helping but that was a week ago i asked the shop to ckeck the availability but havent heard back yet.
kiwi cowboy
4th April 2008, 21:43
The coils are probably as old as the carbs - weak spark wouldn't have enough energy to burn off crud. Something else to consider.
thought of that to pete but if coils were weak wouldnt it be hard to start [no problem there]gona try the needles and seats and filter first cheers
kiwi cowboy
5th April 2008, 19:31
As has been mentioned, quite likely it's worn needles but you should always replace them in conjunction with the needle jets that they slide up and down in - which are even harder to actually see the wear in.
well after alot of fucking around today i cleaned the spare set of carbs out that are supposed to be recoed and put them on the bike.
Started and ran like shit wouldnt idle and would rev out on three but then would not go back to idle just go back to about 2-3 grand then run on three so took them off and thought if as seems to be the concensus its the needles and seats then i should try just changing them into the carbs off it so thats wot i did.
The resault is a bike that is running on 4 again and starts,idles and revs out nice but will have to wait till tomorrow to take it for a ride as was getting dark by the time i finihed and riding in the dark with a tinted viser is not good so fingers xxxxed for tomorrow.
been quoted $150 a carb for new needles and seat so xxxxxed its ok
Robert Taylor
6th April 2008, 19:03
hi all
well ive got a 83 cb900 bol dor in my garage.
fella i got it off said it needed carbes seen to eas why it was running rough.
i think it is running a bit rich by the look of the plugs anyway i put a new set of plugs in it and it ran great for about half an hour then went back to running shit again so i took the no 4 plug out and tested it and it was sparking blue so put one of the oridginal ones cleaned up back in started and ran fine again.
did i get a bum plug brand new or is there somthing wrong posibly somwere in the electrics that would fry the plug.
the thing is theres a spare plug in the tool kit which seems funny to me.
any coments.
cheers
Aside from worn carburetor metering components the plug caps are known to go ''open circuit'' weakening the intensity of the spark.
kiwi cowboy
6th April 2008, 19:15
Aside from worn carburetor metering components the plug caps are known to go ''open circuit'' weakening the intensity of the spark.
went out for a hour ride today and seemed to run nice so fingers crossed its fixed but if im in town one day mite take it to an electriction to check coils and leads,caps as i havent got the gear for that cheers
jonbuoy
6th April 2008, 19:26
What do your plugs look like? I've been dicking around with floats and jetting for weeks now getting good at changing bits without hauling the carbs off :crazy: Best I've gotten to so far is a black outer with a grey insulator.
kiwi cowboy
7th April 2008, 21:27
What do your plugs look like? I've been dicking around with floats and jetting for weeks now getting good at changing bits without hauling the carbs off :crazy: Best I've gotten to so far is a black outer with a grey insulator.
Dunno havent had the plugs out since changing the needles around.
I want to take it for a decent run before looking at them and hopefully get a new air filter for it tomorrow or wednesday.
Black outer with grey insulator isnt to bad [not on 91 anyway].
You must have farrrkin small hands if you can get in and change jets and stuff without taking carbs off.:devil2:
I sent an email to econohonda about new neddles and he replyed that hes had alot of enquires about them latly so is looking into posible supliers as they dont make them anymore factory:wacko:.
jacobthejedi
9th April 2008, 19:05
the easyest way to get new air filters for olded bikes is probably getting an after market one like a pod filter.
kiwi cowboy
9th April 2008, 19:43
the easyest way to get new air filters for olded bikes is probably getting an after market one like a pod filter.
can still get oem ones but dunno how long though
jonbuoy
9th April 2008, 20:49
Dunno havent had the plugs out since changing the needles around.
I want to take it for a decent run before looking at them and hopefully get a new air filter for it tomorrow or wednesday.
Black outer with grey insulator isnt to bad [not on 91 anyway].
You must have farrrkin small hands if you can get in and change jets and stuff without taking carbs off.:devil2:
I sent an email to econohonda about new neddles and he replyed that hes had alot of enquires about them latly so is looking into posible supliers as they dont make them anymore factory:wacko:.
Ha na just nimble fingers :innocent: They not too bad to get at on the SOHC.
T.W.R
9th April 2008, 21:34
As has been mentioned, quite likely it's worn needles but you should always replace them in conjunction with the needle jets that they slide up and down in - which are even harder to actually see the wear in.
:lol: :eek: Needles don't get anywhere near the jets :pinch: they run through the emulsion tubes, the jets are screwed into the bases of the emulsion tubes. The crown of the emulsion tube is where the needle makes direct contact and where the wear happens, that's why the crown becomes elliptical & the wear on the needle is always on the upper part of the stem :niceone:
the easyest way to get new air filters for olded bikes is probably getting an after market one like a pod filter.
Most pod filters require a fair bit of adjustment within the carb to eliminate lean-out
can still get oem ones but dunno how long though
DNA, K & N, UNI do aftermarket filters, all with better flow rates & particle catching qualities.
With getting your coils etc checked; firstly check how soft & pliable the HT leads are, being 25yrs old they're guaranteed to be hard & stiff and most likely starting to calcify internally which causes deteriorated conductivity and sometimes total breakdown of the spark
T.W.R
9th April 2008, 21:51
At the moment you can get:
K & N airfilter from the states for $51.99us
Dynojet stage1 kit $120us (basically slightly quality stock spec needles and primary & main jets)
K & L Carburettor repair kit $26us per carb (complete overhaul kit for the carb, float valve, float needle, jets, O-rings, gaskets, air-mix screw etc)
There are other air filters ranging from $8.99 through to K & N pods (dual mount & single chrome conical type) at $180+
kiwi cowboy
9th April 2008, 22:18
:lol: :eek: Needles don't get anywhere near the jets :pinch: they run through the emulsion tubes, the jets are screwed into the bases of the emulsion tubes. The crown of the emulsion tube is where the needle makes direct contact and where the wear happens, that's why the crown becomes elliptical & the wear on the needle is always on the upper part of the stem :niceone:
:Pokey: Your right the needle jets dont touch the jets as such but from looking on the net they run in a small pice that the emulsion tube holdes in that fits in the carb which some peaple call the jet needle or seat which is whot wer talking about:innocent:
Most pod filters require a fair bit of adjustment within the carb to eliminate lean-out
Thats why i got a oem one for it arrived today:Punk:
DNA, K & N, UNI do aftermarket filters, all with better flow rates & particle catching qualities.
With getting your coils etc checked; firstly check how soft & pliable the HT leads are, being 25yrs old they're guaranteed to be hard & stiff and most likely starting to calcify internally which causes deteriorated conductivity and sometimes total breakdown of the spark
Na they look fairly new to me and not sure i like talkin bout anything ;HARD &STIFF;:buggerd::spanking:
T.W.R
9th April 2008, 22:24
Na they look fairly new to me and not sure i like talkin bout anything ;HARD &STIFF;:buggerd::spanking:
:eek:worry about you fellas from the southern end of the island :laugh:
If you take the leads off the plugs do they stay in a curved shape or fall limp (:doh: don't go there)
kiwi cowboy
9th April 2008, 22:26
At the moment you can get:
K & N airfilter from the states for $51.99us
Dynojet stage1 kit $120us (basically slightly quality stock spec needles and primary & main jets)
K & L Carburettor repair kit $26us per carb (complete overhaul kit for the carb, float valve, float needle, jets, O-rings, gaskets, air-mix screw etc)
There are other air filters ranging from $8.99 through to K & N pods (dual mount & single chrome conical type) at $180+
Cheers for these ideas might check them out.
have been on bike bandit but postage seems to kill it.
kiwi cowboy
9th April 2008, 22:34
:eek:worry about you fellas from the southern end of the island :laugh:
If you take the leads off the plugs do they stay in a curved shape or fall limp (:doh: don't go there)
:devil2:Dont worry bout us down here this topic started north of here:sherlock:.
They go LIMP [:doh::doh::doh::argh:now look whot youve started:spanking:
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