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View Full Version : Buying a Plastic Welder?



カワサキキド
10th December 2004, 14:02
The plastic welders you guys have, can you tell me which type have been good and are there any brands I should steer away from.
Also where did you buy them from and for how much?

Motoracer
10th December 2004, 15:30
Just buy a soldering iron from your local warehouse or dicksmith mate. It'll do the job just fine. It should be $10-15.

kerryg
10th December 2004, 15:31
The plastic welders you guys have, can you tell me which type have been good and are there any brands I should steer away from.
Also where did you buy them from and for how much?


Somebody uses a soldering iron and cable ties.....dunno if anyone's got the real deal though unless they're in the trade

Mr Skid
10th December 2004, 15:43
Somebody uses a soldering iron and cable ties.....

I picked that one up from Dodgyiti. My top fairing haven't fallen apart yet.

vifferman
10th December 2004, 15:49
Soldering iron is too hot, and cable ties and fairings aren't the same plastic, as most fairings are ABS, and cable ties are (I think) LDPE.

ABS doesn't respond super well to welding - better to use MEK (methylethyl ketone) based adhesive, or methylene chloride as a solvent, with shavings of ABS, from the back side of the broken fairing piece. I've also used the solvent cement for Marley's guttering pieces, but it's a bit low in solvents and has other crap in it, so it doesn't work quite as well because you need an adhesive that'll be drawn into the crack by capillary action.

カワサキキド
10th December 2004, 17:18
I have been using a soldering iron, but the plastic doesn't retain its strength.
I think it's about time I invested in the correct tool.

FlyingDutchMan
10th December 2004, 17:53
I've used a solderng iron and its worked quite well. As with everything the prep makes all the difference. I got rid of the paint either side of the crackes, a few bits of duct tape holding it in place and melted together with a cheap (15W I think - not very hot) DSE iron. None of the welds I did have come apart, but some of the ones I got done by a shop are :disapint:

Heres a pic:
http://middleparkmanor.homeip.net/CKstuff/snowsmall.jpg
Don't those welds look classy?

Mr Skid
10th December 2004, 18:14
Soldering iron is too hot, and cable ties and fairings aren't the same plastic, as most fairings are ABS, and cable ties are (I think) LDPE.

Can you keep that quiet? I don't want my fairing finding out and falling apart.

gman
10th December 2004, 18:53
you could always fibreglass the backside after plastic soldering it .makes it lots stronger and cheap too.

FROSTY
10th December 2004, 19:23
someone sells a 2 tube type fairing repair stuff. Ive used it myself and its pretty darn good.
You V the crack to get a good purchace area then push this stuff into the crack. It seems to be brilliant.

Milky
10th December 2004, 21:55
Something like a two part epoxy frosty? I have plastic welded using cable ties and soldering iron(very old inefficient 15W), and the iron does get things a little hot at times, boiling the plastic rather than melting it. Still, what I have done is holding together fine. I have had much success using araldite and cloth to repair brackets here and there, putting it on in the same way as you would apply carbon fibre. If anyone chooses to try this way, make sure you use strong, open weave cloth for the epoxy to penetrate into. As with anything along these lines, preperation is everything. Make sure you have the surfaces very clean. Putting a light sand/grooves over the surface before you start helps too :niceone:

aff-man
10th December 2004, 22:01
best cheap way is soldering iron. After i was done it was bloody strong. But to add strength i welded it so that there was a bit of a groove, filled it with realy good apoxy and sanded it back. Worked really really well :2thumbsup

Milky
10th December 2004, 22:15
I have done that too - weld the back as far through as I can go, then carve out the crack on the paintwork side and fill with epoxy, sellotape over the top - keeps the finish smooth, and makes sure you dont get runs or air bubbles - then sand back and repaint. Works a charm.

guzzi_nz
16th December 2004, 10:50
If u need i find outthought my bro what welder here users in the trade
but i know they around 350 for good one which will fix it right

use trademan to fix it bro is one and he show me diff plastics that welded and ones that need alot of time to weld and streighting more to it if u what to fix it for good

Stevo
20th December 2004, 21:55
If u need i find outthought my bro what welder here users in the trade
but i know they around 350 for good one which will fix it right

use trademan to fix it bro is one and he show me diff plastics that welded and ones that need alot of time to weld and streighting more to it if u what to fix it for good

Huh? :confused2

Milky
20th December 2004, 22:16
Huh? :confused2seconded :mellow:

カワサキキド
21st December 2004, 15:35
I had to re-read that post a few times before I could make sence of it.
I am missing a few little pieces of the fairing, from my last collision with the ground, so I will cover up the gaps and reinforce the cracks with fibreglass.

Suney
9th February 2005, 18:36
What type of materials are you guys using with your soldering iron? All using cable ties?
I thought cable ties are nylon? not ldpe?

Also are you guys melting the plastic and reinforcing the back, then filling the front with some kind of filler?
Some of the posts are quite confusing and sounds like you're filling the front, sanding it and painting it :o

Cheers

**R1**
9th February 2005, 18:41
I have been using a soldering iron, but the plastic doesn't retain its strength.
I think it's about time I invested in the correct tool.
Hey dude i have the Real thing if ya wana borrow it???????? PM me and i'll give ya my address ya can pop over and grab it........i dont think i have any plastic welding rod left but its cheap as chips from Patersons.

カワサキキド
9th February 2005, 18:54
Perfect timing, I'm just waiting for a front mount to arrive, the I can fix it up properly. Hopefully it will arrive tomorrow.

RiderInBlack
9th February 2005, 19:13
I've found by using the right plastic rod (surprise surprise) I get realy good welds with a soldering Iron. Have got a woodburning pen set to use for the next job (has different tips).

Tim the tool man
7th March 2012, 13:11
Hi all,

Just wanted to provide some good information about "plastic welders" for anyone who has an interest.
Firstly, when we talk about "welding" of plastics - it is possible to effect true molecular welding - but you will never achieve this with a soldering iron. You need to have equipment that is specifically designed to meet worldwide welding standards. Using the following tools, you can achieve extremely strong WELDING of plastics.


Hand-held plastic welders:
The hand-held plastic welding tools provide a precisely controlled jet of Hot Air, which can be set to a specific temperature for welding all thermoplastics. These are by far the most commonly used tools for plastics fabrication and repair welding today.

So what do you need to consider before buying a Plastic Welder ?
Here is a list of things to take on board prior to purchasing your first plastic welder.

1. Quality -
DVS compliant ?
Equipment should be selected that complies with worldwide welding standards, as set by the German/Swiss welding/joining society (DVS). This means the welding equipment is manufactured to meet ideal parameters as required to ensure strong, structual, molecular welding.
CE compliant ?
In general equipment manufactured in Europe (Switzerland / Germany) will carry the CE mark. CE marking is a key indicator that a product complies with EU (European Union) legislation. CE marked products conform to very high standards of manufacture, safety, performance and quality - CE marked products are bought by professional users as they are the most suitable for industrial & commercial use. (Beware of cheap chinese equipment !! In China the CE symbol has been alleged to stand for China Export or China Engineering - because some Chinese manufacturers apply a very similar marking to their products. As Chinese exporters have used the CE logo incorrectly, the matter was raised at the EU parliament in 2008, and the Commission decided they will look into trade-marking the official CE logo - and are in discussion with Chinese authorities to ensure compliance with European standards. So in simple terms - if you pay peanuts, you'll get monkeys)

2. Back up & Support -
Make sure the supplier offers back up and support. Applications advice, spare parts & technical service is usually offered by the quality equipment suppliers. A good supplier will carry a full range of equipment, accessories and even consumables - eg. Plastic Welding Rods. These suppliers have generally been in the business for many years and so will have the knowledge & experience to best support you.

3. Warranty -
High quality welding tools are usually covered with a warranty. In Australia & New Zealand, Techspan brand plastic welders are supplied with a limited 2 year warranty.

4. Temperature Control -
A critical part of the plastic welding process is ensuring your welding temperature matches the welding temperature of the particular material to be welded. As different plastics weld at different temperatures, a welding tool with precise electronic temperature control is essential. In general temperature control is built-in to the welding tools. Some models even offer LCD displays, where you can set welding tempertures accurately on the screen. These models are commonly referred to as 'Digital' models.

5. Built-in Blower -
The most common plastic welding tool is fully self contained (Techspan model Rion) - meaning that the blower is built-in to the welder. These tools are by far the most portable and easy to use. Some models dont have built in blowers - compressed air can be used to provide the required airsource to such models, however use of compressed air can be very expensive and must be 'clean & dry'. Pressure must also be be controlled to suit the welding tool airflow specifications. Compressed air flow characteristics are also not as ideal as the fully self contained models with built-in blowers.

6. Accessories & Nozzles for Plastic Welding -
The welding tool will require some specfic accessory nozzles in order to effect correct welding techniques. To ensure you have all the right nozzles for your welding application, we recommend you buy your plastic welding tool in KIT form.

Techspan have put a great deal of emphasis on providing 'easy to find' equipment specification, training videos and more online. The latest Techspan website is packed with all the information you'll need.

Online Store: Now you can View, order & purchase our vast range of Plastic Welding Tools online 24/7.
Visit www.plasticweldingtools.co.nz

Youtube channel:
Visit www.youtube.com/user/TECHSPANONLINE

Facebook page:
Visit www.facebook.com/Techspan

MORE DETAILED INFORMATION ABOUT ' HOW TO ' WELD PLASTIC:
The above is only one of our recent 'tech tips'. To view the whole series of 'tech tips' on welding plastics, go to the following link >>
http://www.techspanonline.com/Articles/Techspan-news/5/128/How-to-Weld-Plastics-with-hot-air.aspx

Also, here is our full Instructional Plastic Welding Video >>
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HvV9a3lEe2g&feature=player_embedded

I am also happy to take any direct queries covering the plastic welding process, should you care to email me..

Regards,
Tim the tool man

www.plasticweldingtools.co.nz

nodrog
7th March 2012, 13:23
The Leister Ghibli with a speed welding tip is awesome, thats what I use. But I sure am glad work payed for it.

DrunkenMistake
7th March 2012, 13:32
Way to dig up a 7 year old thread guys..

nodrog
7th March 2012, 14:05
Way to dig up a 7 year old thread guys..

259418


_______

DrunkenMistake
7th March 2012, 14:53
259421

:cool:

Maha
7th March 2012, 15:02
Way to dig up a 7 year old thread guys..

Because if you start a new threrd ...someone will point out that there is already a thread on that subject matter. It always interests me to see some of the names (that no longer post) in the older threads.