View Full Version : yamaha fzx250 preventive maintenance
erik
11th December 2004, 10:46
I've finished uni for the year and have a couple of months to sort my bike out before uni starts again.
I'm planning on checking the valve clearances and maybe doing the shims depending on how expensive they are and also want to check and adjust the camchain tension.
But how do I get the camshaft cover off? It's got a thick rubber gasket and seems like it might be glued in place or something, I couldn't just pull the cover off last time I tried.
Any suggestions?
I was thinking maybe slit it with a knife and then use the silicone gasket stuff to seal the slit bit when I put it back together.
James Deuce
11th December 2004, 11:13
I've finished uni for the year and have a couple of months to sort my bike out before uni starts again.
I'm planning on checking the valve clearances and maybe doing the shims depending on how expensive they are and also want to check and adjust the camchain tension.
But how do I get the camshaft cover off? It's got a thick rubber gasket and seems like it might be glued in place or something, I couldn't just pull the cover off last time I tried.
Any suggestions?
I was thinking maybe slit it with a knife and then use the silicone gasket stuff to seal the slit bit when I put it back together.
Always buy new Gaskets.
backfire
11th December 2004, 11:32
I was thinking maybe slit it with a knife and then use the silicone gasket stuff to seal the slit bit when I put it back together.
Jim2 is right....new gaskets every time. :yeah:
jrandom
11th December 2004, 11:54
We should do it together, assembly-line style. I have a nice clean-ish gargre we can use. I'm sure my Zeal could do with the attention, too.
Wonder if gaskets come in two-for-one deals.
NB: I have no idea what I'm doing, so don't expect any useful input from me. I'll just nod, shove things around, and follow your lead.
I might be able to bribe an appropriate acquaintance to turn up and give technical valve/camchain advice, though.
PM me if you're interested. Next weekend, mebbe?
FROSTY
11th December 2004, 12:38
The last time it was off they may have used a little bit of silicone sealant to seal her up.
double check that ALL the bolts are undone--There may be two down between number 1 and 2 spark plug hole and number 3 and 4 spark plug hole.
I give the rocker cover a series of whacks with a rubber or plastic faced mallet. That usually loosens things off.
erik
11th December 2004, 14:00
We should do it together, assembly-line style. I have a nice clean-ish gargre we can use. I'm sure my Zeal could do with the attention, too.
Wonder if gaskets come in two-for-one deals.
NB: I have no idea what I'm doing, so don't expect any useful input from me. I'll just nod, shove things around, and follow your lead.
I might be able to bribe an appropriate acquaintance to turn up and give technical valve/camchain advice, though.
PM me if you're interested. Next weekend, mebbe?
I don't really know what I'm doing either, I'm kinda learning as I go, so it'd be two people that don't know what they're doing, twice as many bikes, so is that 4 times the confusion? ;)
It could be fun working together, but my bike's already in bits with the sprockets off because they need replacing too, so it isn't going anywhere at the moment. Plus I dunno how long it'll take if it turns out I'll need new shims.
Did you say before that you were going to do something to harden up the forks? I've tried changing the fork oil to SAE15 with little effect but nodman has suggested that I put some spacers in to give it a bit more preload. I'm also toying with the idea of trying to find some stiffer springs that'll fit at a wrecker.
Always buy new Gaskets.
Jim2 is right....new gaskets every time. :yeah:
Even when you're trying to do things on the cheap and you live in west auckland?
James Deuce
11th December 2004, 14:09
Even when you're trying to do things on the cheap and you live in west auckland?
Nick some cork tiles from your Aunty's kitchen floor bro. Use the old gasket as a template and cut them out from there.
Teflon
11th December 2004, 17:24
Haynes manuals are great; about $60.
erik
11th December 2004, 18:02
I wish there was a haynes manual available for my bike. But as far as I know, there isn't.
I got the cover off successfully, it just needed a bit of a tap with a mallot like Frosty suggested :)
But it's back on there now, just to keep the dust out. My back's starting to feel a bit knackered and to be honest I think I'll have to do some more reading or ask more questions before I go any further.
Does anyone know if the valve clearances would be the same as for an FZR400 (intake valve: 0.11 - 0.20 mm, exhaust valve: 0.21 - 0.30 mm)?
Yamahamaman
11th December 2004, 18:38
west auckland?
What has living in West Auckland got to do with it?
erik
11th December 2004, 20:18
What has living in West Auckland got to do with it?
I was just joking about westies being a bit rough with repairs. I thought it was kinda steriotypical, but maybe I'm confused.
Hitcher
12th December 2004, 12:58
I have just had a portent of Zeal doom...
En la tierra de la persiana un hombre tuerto es rey
Don't do it!
erik
12th December 2004, 13:18
I have just had a portent of Zeal doom...
En la tierra de la persiana un hombre tuerto es rey
Don't do it!
If I don't do it, how am I going to learn how to fix bikes?
Hitcher
12th December 2004, 13:31
If I don't do it, how am I going to learn how to fix bikes?
For everything there is a time:
A time to be born, a time to die
A time to plant, a time to reap
A time to kill, a time to heal
A time to laugh, a time to weep
A time to sit in another Westie's gargre with a bottle of beer and take Zeals to bits, a time to resist temptation and get a qualified mechanic to do it...
Bonez
12th December 2004, 16:27
If I don't do it, how am I going to learn how to fix bikes?
Soom folk don't want to service there own cickles. Good on ya for giving it a go.
erik
12th December 2004, 16:35
For everything there is a time:
A time to be born, a time to die
A time to plant, a time to reap
A time to kill, a time to heal
A time to laugh, a time to weep
A time to sit in another Westie's gargre with a bottle of beer and take Zeals to bits, a time to resist temptation and get a qualified mechanic to do it...
:)
Yep, but I think I'm better off doing this now with the zeal because it's my first bike and it's probably going to be cheaper than future bikes I'll own. Plus it's the holidays from uni for me, so I don't have to use the bike for commuting, which means it can stay off the road for a while as I take my time to figure out how to do this.
Hitcher
12th December 2004, 19:08
Yep, but I think I'm better off doing this now with the zeal because it's my first bike and it's probably going to be cheaper than future bikes I'll own. Plus it's the holidays from uni for me, so I don't have to use the bike for commuting, which means it can stay off the road for a while as I take my time to figure out how to do this.
Fair enough. But Zeals are quite complex wee things. And don't let that jrandom dude mix his bits up with yours...
jrandom
12th December 2004, 19:36
don't let that jrandom dude mix his bits up with yours...
Erik's nowhere *near* hot enough or wealthy enough for me to even consider that.
erik
12th December 2004, 21:40
:laugh:
I'll be careful.
I found it difficult to drag myself away from the computer today, so didn't get much done. But I did go to repco and get myself a set of feeler gauges so I was able to measure the valve clearances. The exhaust valves are all 0.254mm except for one that is 0.229mm. The inlet valves are (starting from #1 cylinder and working across (in mm):
0.127 0.152 0.102 0.076 0.076 <0.038 0.102 0.127
Now I've gotta find out what the clearances are supposed to be and with a bit of luck I won't have to replace all the shims. The valve with <0.038mm I don't actually know what the clearance is because 0.038mm is the smallest feeler gauge I've got and even it didn't fit through. I even rotated the crankshaft through a revolution to make sure nothing had stuck, and got the same reading.
While I haven't got a zeal manual, I do have an fzr400 manual, and the engine looks reasonably similar, so I've been following the proceedures in that. I just don't know if the valve clearances for the zeal is the same as the fzr400. I'll phone a bike shop tomorrow and see if they can tell me what they should be.
Gotta get myself a torque wrench too...
Hitcher
13th December 2004, 07:40
Oh god, it's too late. He's been and gone and done it. Good luck with the getting back together and going bit!
Bonez
14th December 2004, 20:06
Good to see he's using the age old universal tool too.
erik
14th December 2004, 20:15
Good to see he's using the age old universal tool too.
If you mean the pliers, they just happened to be on the floor when I took the photo. I wouldn't dream of using them to undo bolts or anything like that!
They were there from removing the circlip from the chain.
Motu
14th December 2004, 20:22
Pretty hot on the de fence there Erik - I'm more concerned about the Eastwing...get yourself a decent ball pein from the Warehouse,I can't even hit a nail with an Eastwing claw,let alone important stuff like motorcycles....
Bonez
15th December 2004, 04:45
If you mean the pliers, they just happened to be on the floor when I took the photo.No the hammer ol boy ;).
Kwaka-Kid
15th December 2004, 05:29
top effort mate! good to see your getting in there!
re: gaskets... Bah! when i havnt had a gasket ive always used Master Gasket, hasnt set me wrong get, the racebikes got it on the clutch cover without a problem, i cant see an issue in using it unless its a high pressure oil area?.
James Deuce
15th December 2004, 05:35
top effort mate! good to see your getting in there!
re: gaskets... Bah! when i havnt had a gasket ive always used Master Gasket, hasnt set me wrong get, the racebikes got it on the clutch cover without a problem, i cant see an issue in using it unless its a high pressure oil area?.
I's gonna git the race ogranizers to play "Rawhide" when you's on the track little fella! :)
erik
15th December 2004, 08:07
Pretty hot on the de fence there Erik - I'm more concerned about the Eastwing...get yourself a decent ball pein from the Warehouse,I can't even hit a nail with an Eastwing claw,let alone important stuff like motorcycles....
No the hammer ol boy ;).
ah... :o
well, the actual hammer never touched the bike (well, I might've tapped it with the rubber coated handle a bit). I used it in combination with a block of wood to loosen the camshaft cover (haven't got a rubber mallet).
KK, I used some silicone gasket stuff when I put the starter motor cover back on after Death fixed it up for me after my bin. It seems to be working ok, it isn't leaking. I'll have to see with the camshaft cover though, as it's not just a thin gasket. I'm kinda hoping I can just put the cover back on and all will be well, or maybe use a bit of silicone in combination with the original gasket.
I dunno if it's a high pressure area, I guess it might be. If I put it back together and it leaks, I'll know I need a new gasket... ;)
erik
15th December 2004, 17:26
I've got a question for anyone that knows about adjusting valve clearances.
The recommenced clearances are:
0.11mm to 0.20mm inlet
0.21mm to 0.30mm exhaust
the exhaust clearances are all within acceptable limits (mostly all 0.254mm, one is at 0.229mm) so I guess I don't need to touch them.
The inlets are (in mm):
cylinder: 1 2 3 4
clearance: 0.127 0.152 0.102 0.076 0.076 <0.038 0.102 0.127
Going from the measured clearances, I have to adjust the valves in cylinders 2 and 3 and one of the valves in cylinder 4. Or is it wise to just do them all at once, even if some of them are within limits?
Also, I think I read that it's the valve seats that wear more than the cam/cam followers and hence the valve clearance generally reduces as the engine wears?
So should I try to set the valve clearances that I change to the upper limit in the acceptable range?
Blakamin
15th December 2004, 17:42
I've got a question for anyone that knows about adjusting valve clearances.
The recommenced clearances are:
0.11mm to 0.20mm inlet
0.21mm to 0.30mm exhaust
At least you got some answers... the yamaha mechanics in Pram asked me if JR's bike was a 400 or a 600 when I took it there :(
Bonez
15th December 2004, 20:03
ah... :o
well, the actual hammer never touched the bike (well, I might've tapped it with the rubber coated handle a bit). I used it in combination with a block of wood to loosen the camshaft cover (haven't got a rubber mallet).
Hence the comment as a universal tool :2thumbsup
erik
16th December 2004, 22:34
Well...
Got myself a compression gauge and measured the compression on each cylinder, just out of curiosity. I did them cold because I didn't want to put everything back together, so I guess they'll be lower than they would be if it was warmed up?
Cylinder
1: 90psi
2: 94psi
3: 82psi
4: 93psi
cylinder #3 is the one with no clearance on one valve, so I'm hoping the low compression is due to that.
Also got the valve shims/pads out. Needed a special valve lifter/bucket removal tool, after heaps of searching I found one, see the pic ;) (removing the second valve lifter from cylinder 2).
For anyone that's interested, the second pic shows one of the valve lifters and valve pads in my hand from cylinder 1.
The pads all have numbers on them, I've got an FZR400 manual that is similar to the zeal, so I'm basically following what it says in there. There's a chart thing with pad numbers to help figure out what ones I need. I dunno how expensive they are or if I'll be able to exchange the ones I've got in part for other sizes. Hopefully they're a common yamaha part...
Anyone know where to get molybdenum disulphide grease? I couldn't see any at repco the other day. I think all I've got is a lithium based grease and some wheel bearing grease, and the fzr400 manual calls for molybdenum disulphide grease when you're reassembling the valve lifters and pads etc.
Kwaka-Kid
17th December 2004, 17:41
got some here dude, not that its much use to you! can borrow a tube if you want.
erik
19th December 2004, 13:13
Thanks for the offer, Logan. :)
I just had another look at the FZR400 manual and it says to use molybdenum disulphide (MoS2) grease on the shims and use MoS2 oil on the cam bearing surfaces and buckets. But then in another part it looks like they're pointing to use the oil on the shims too.
So I phoned Repco this time and asked if they had any MoS2 grease or oil, they said they've got a lithium based MoS2 grease but not oil. I'm wondering if maybe it's a stuff up in the manual where it calls for oil, maybe just a bit of grease will be ok? And if lithium based MoS2 grease is ok, then I've already got some of that so should be sweet.
Advice anyone?
I got the new shims yesterday, Ricky at Mt Eden Motorcycles helped me out :niceone:. I didn't realise that the numbers on the pads stood for the pad thickness (ie 175 = 1.75mm thick) so he had to help me figure out what new shims I needed from the measured gaps and old pad thicknesses and then gave/sold me some replacement pads from his personal collection and took my old ones. I thought that was bloody nice of him :).
Milky
20th December 2004, 18:24
So should I try to set the valve clearances that I change to the upper limit in the acceptable range?
Remember the little ditty 'a tappy tappet is a happy tappet'. I always set the clearances to the upper end of the range.
Milky
20th December 2004, 18:36
I just had another look at the FZR400 manual and it says to use molybdenum disulphide (MoS2) grease on the shims and use MoS2 oil on the cam bearing surfaces and buckets. But then in another part it looks like they're pointing to use the oil on the shims too.
So I phoned Repco this time and asked if they had any MoS2 grease or oil, they said they've got a lithium based MoS2 grease but not oil. I'm wondering if maybe it's a stuff up in the manual where it calls for oil, maybe just a bit of grease will be ok? And if lithium based MoS2 grease is ok, then I've already got some of that so should be sweet.
Advice anyone?
I am not quite sure on the terminology you are using, but I assume the cam bearing surfaces and buckets are where the bearings for the camshaft are located? If that is correct, then the only reason I can see for grease in there is to stop the two surfaces corroding together over time. The whole cam region has oil pumped through it while the engine is running, so the bearings themselves get oil through them.
Talked to my old man, and he thinks that the grease required on the shims(or elsewhere for that matter) is only for the initial startup period after the motor has been reassembled. Should be ok with a light smear of whatever you have.
erik
20th December 2004, 21:39
thanks Milky, I was wondering about the valve clearance, Ricky at Mt eden also said to set it to the upper limit.
Yep, I guess my terminology is a bit muddled, I'm using part what I've read in the FZR manual and part what I've heard used before in other places. Here's a gif of the buckets and shims to clear things up. The cam bearing surfaces was just that, the surfaces the camshafts run on. It's kinda surprising but it seems they just run on the aluminium alloy (I'm assuming) cylinder head and bracket bits that hold them in place. I'd think it would wear out quicker than it does... show's what I know eh ;).
Still have to fill the radiator and then I can start it up and balance the carbs...
Fun fun fun :)
Milky
20th December 2004, 22:10
It's kinda surprising but it seems they just run on the aluminium alloy (I'm assuming) cylinder head and bracket bits that hold them in place. I'd think it would wear out quicker than it does... show's what I know eh ;).
That does suprise me too, but then again, in the BM's crankcase, the conrods run straight off the crankshaft - no ball or roller bearings there at all. I guess with the amount of oil that is being pumped around it doesnt need anything other than plain bearings...
Kwaka-Kid
21st December 2004, 20:21
Crazy!
big end bearing is what id use
as for cams running directly on the heads alloy surface - thats fairly common, the old honda singles all do that, eventually they do wear out by when you either steel sleeve them or roller bearing them.
erik
29th December 2004, 22:42
Update:
The engine is back together and was fired up and seems to be running fine with no leaks (so far...). The carbs didn't need to be rebalanced, they were all about the same so I guess they haven't changed since the last time I balanced them (some time in the first half of the year). I haven't checked the compression yet though, I probably will a bit later, just out of curiosity.
Right now I'm waiting for yamaha to open so one of the yamaha dealers can order me a gasket for between the fuel tap and tank. The tap was leaking, and I found an o-ring to replace the o-ring in the tap, but after bolting the tap back onto the tank, it started leaking from there. :(
And I'm still waiting for the sprockets. After Frosty's friend Alex recommended I check the wreckers here (with no luck) I thought I'd try Victorian Motorcycle Wreckers in Australia. They said AU$50 for new aftermarket sprockets, I'm still not entirely sure if they mean each or for both, either way it's cheaper than OEM parts. :niceone:
Yamahamaman
29th December 2004, 22:51
Good work Erik
Milky
29th December 2004, 23:19
what did you finally decide to do with that cork gasket?
erik
30th December 2004, 07:56
what did you finally decide to do with that cork gasket?
The one from my Aunty's floor? :laugh:
I've decided to test if the gaskets that are still on there leak or not, if they leak, I'll replace them. ;)
vifferman
30th December 2004, 08:24
I used some silicone gasket stuff when I put the starter motor cover back on after Death fixed it up for me after my bin. It seems to be working ok, it isn't leaking. I'll have to see with the camshaft cover though, as it's not just a thin gasket. I'm kinda hoping I can just put the cover back on and all will be well, or maybe use a bit of silicone in combination with the original gasket.
I dunno if it's a high pressure area, I guess it might be. If I put it back together and it leaks, I'll know I need a new gasket... ;)
Now that you've got it back together, this is probably irrelevant, but be careful when using the silicon tjhat you don't end up with extra little bits squeezed out on the inside of cases, as they can end up coming adrift and blocking oilways.
As for the leaking fuel tap, usually there's a flat metal-to-metal seal between the tap and flange on the tank, so you need to keep things very clean; any grit or whatever wil make it leak.
erik
30th December 2004, 08:58
Now that you've got it back together, this is probably irrelevant, but be careful when using the silicon tjhat you don't end up with extra little bits squeezed out on the inside of cases, as they can end up coming adrift and blocking oilways.
As for the leaking fuel tap, usually there's a flat metal-to-metal seal between the tap and flange on the tank, so you need to keep things very clean; any grit or whatever wil make it leak.
Yep, I was careful not too put too much silicon on the starter motor case, so hopefully it'll be ok.
With my fuel tap, there are just 3 holes in the tank, and the tap has a rubber gasket to seal it to the bottom of the tank (see photo). I tried making one out of silicon, but then after reading a bit more about silicon, it seems it might not be fuel resistant, so I'll wait a week and order a proper seal.
Milky
30th December 2004, 16:48
The one from my Aunty's floor? :laugh:
I've decided to test if the gaskets that are still on there leak or not, if they leak, I'll replace them. ;)
methought that there was a cork gasket revealed upon removal of the cam covering device
erik
30th December 2004, 17:17
methought that there was a cork gasket revealed upon removal of the cam covering device
Nope, the only mention of cork gaskets was when Jim2 said I should use some of my aunty's cork kitchen tiles for a gasket since I was trying to be cheap... ;)
dhanvic08
23rd February 2005, 21:23
Hello everyone! Sir Erik,
nice work, I've been reading your post and dreaming of owning another bike just like yours.
Im from teh Philippines, and I saw a sweet looking 1998 Yamaha FZX250. a real head turner!!!
I was really thinking and I cant sleep well about getting that bike. But i am woried because I only have a Haynes Manual for a CBR250-400RR on CD but have no luck to find a copy of the Haynes Manual on CD yet...
I'll be looking forward for the update/developments of your tune-ups.
Thanks and Ride safe bros!
BTW, It's my first time here...hehehe!:)
dhanvic08
17th March 2005, 14:27
no update about your bike sir eric...?
erik
17th March 2005, 17:17
no update about your bike sir eric...?
Sorry. Where'd I leave off...?
Well, the bike has been running fine since putting it back together, the rocker cover seal hasn't leaked as far as I can tell.
The aftermarket sprockets fit ok with a bit of a spacer made for the front because it was too thin. The rear aftermarket sprocket wasn't dished like the original, but it doesn't matter, the chain still clears the rear tyre and is actually more inline with the front sprocket now.
I got a new seal for the fueltap and it hasn't leaked since either.
I haven't checked the compression, it's going fine and I'm kinda lazy so I'll just leave it for now.
Are you still thinking of getting a Zeal? I thought you concluded the fuel economy wasn't good enough?
dhanvic08
18th March 2005, 17:04
I decided to grab the deal with the FZX250. It's well taken care of, newly painted, (No scratch!)
Only the mufflers are modified but everything else is stock.
The bike is running sweetly and I can easily reach the speed of 140+- in no time.
But I get used to the power of the 400 so i guess the fuel economy is a Get-Used-to issue. my backride is confortable and I am confortable with the riding position too as well as parts and service are a bit lower than that of my beloved CBR.
I just need to get details/ info about the bike such as its electrical because I'm planning to put extra stuff on it such as blinker tails etc etc.
I also need to consider buying tools for my maintenance and cleaning aids too.
thanks sir Eric!
nodrog
19th March 2005, 21:49
qoute; Anyone know where to get molybdenum disulphide grease?....
i got me some from super cheap, its penrite in a black tub, cant remember the exact name of it, i could check but it is out in the shed buried under a pile of triumph parts at the moment.
good on ya for having a crack mate, sometimes that is the best way to learn to do things. :niceone:
dhanvic08
1st April 2005, 17:45
Sir Eric, just a bit of an OT:
Is your engine number 3YX-? or it has other number after the dash? :confused:
Coz mine only have 3YX-? it should be 3YX and series of numbers
erik
1st April 2005, 19:26
Sir Eric, just a bit of an OT:
Is your engine number 3YX-? or it has other number after the dash? :confused:
Coz mine only have 3YX-? it should be 3YX and series of numbers
Hey mate, the frame number is 3YX-005011 (off the steering head).
The engine number as far as I can tell is
Y-1
IHX
01
(on the front of the engine)
What do you need it for?
dhanvic08
2nd April 2005, 17:08
"3YX-" is found on the top of the engine lying flat on a rectangular shape part of the engine just bellow the battery case sir.
The Engine and chasis number is similar according to the registration here in our country but during the Physical inspection, the engine only has 3YX on it...:( I need to confirm it from other Zeal owners so that I could transfer the registration under my name
Additional Q sir: :mobile: what spark plug do you recommend/use? Thanks!
Pls confirm if you have the 3YX on the engine as I've seen on my Zeal.
thanks dude! :2thumbsup
erik
2nd April 2005, 19:34
"3YX-" is found on the top of the engine lying flat on a rectangular shape part of the engine just bellow the battery case sir.
The Engine and chasis number is similar according to the registration here in our country but during the Physical inspection, the engine only has 3YX on it...:( I need to confirm it from other Zeal owners so that I could transfer the registration under my name
Additional Q sir: :mobile: what spark plug do you recommend/use? Thanks!
Pls confirm if you have the 3YX on the engine as I've seen on my Zeal.
thanks dude! :2thumbsup
Had a look, yep there is a 3YX on top of the enging/gearbox just below the fuel tap. There aren't any other numbers following it though, just the 3YX.
In my certificate of registration/ownership papers, they haven't got an engine number for the Zeal, it just says "UNKNOWN" so I guess Zeals don't have engine numbers?
The spark plugs that came with the bike when I got it (and are still in it) are NGK R CR8E plugs.
dhanvic08
2nd April 2005, 21:23
The inspector says "what can be seen on the registration should be what's on the engine of my zeal... "so the registration says that the engine number is similar to the chasis number but the engine only has 3 characters on it "3yx"... :confused:
so i went to the Land Tranportation office where it is first registered and they claimed it is the inspectors (the porevious inspector) fault who placed wrong details which the LTO used as guide/reference for the registration.. :angry2: .now I can't transfer the bike under my name!!!
I think i'll just register it and trasfer of registration should follow then after I solve the chasis vs engine number...Thanks mate! you're help is very much appreciated!
BTW, dude, I think my brake lever is not the original set, because there is nothing to place the side mirrors on it... I can't find any spare here... :confused: that's why I drive my bike slowly to avoid accident :ride:
about the plugs, thanks again, I'm planning to change plugs next week.
ride safe!
I'll keep you posted!
dhanvic08
13th May 2005, 21:10
Sir Eric, I cant seem to find a post which says the oil filter of the Zeal, could you please help me out? :ride:
With my former bike CBR400RR, the oil filter is similar to that of a Toyota-Car. Is it adviceable to get a replacement oil filter (same size/dimension but diff brand perhaps) that would match what's on the zeal or just stick with the original?
What about engine oil?what type of oil do you use?Im planning to change oil this weekend? Is Shell Advance VSX 20/40 good for our bike? or 20/40 CAstrol Activ?
Forgive me sir, but you, sir Blakamin and JRandom are the only people I know that could help me out when It comes to the zeal...so Im pretty dependent on you guys!hehehehe :niceone: :Punk:
Sir Eric, I cant seem to find a post which says the oil filter of the Zeal, could you please help me out? :ride:
With my former bike CBR400RR, the oil filter is similar to that of a Toyota-Car. Is it adviceable to get a replacement oil filter (same size/dimension but diff brand perhaps) that would match what's on the zeal or just stick with the original?
What about engine oil?what type of oil do you use?Im planning to change oil this weekend? Is Shell Advance VSX 20/40 good for our bike? or 20/40 CAstrol Activ?
Forgive me sir, but you, sir Blakamin and JRandom are the only people I know that could help me out when It comes to the zeal...so Im pretty dependent on you guys!hehehehe :niceone: :Punk:
Hi dhanvic08,
I recently changed the oil and filter on my zeal, the filter I got was an aftermarket one made by Union Sangyo co. LTD and the type is an MC-560
It says on the box that it's also the filter for a Yamaha fzr1000, fzr750, fzr400rr, xjr400s, or a kawasaki zxr750, zzr400, etc. or honda CBR400RR.R etc (I'm too lazy to write all models...), but going by that it looks like it might be the same type as your cbr400rr?
The oil I used was Putoline DX-4 semi synthetic oil. I tried a plain mineral oil last time and the gearbox didn't like it, it made finding neutral even more difficult and gear changes not as nice.
I'm not familiar with the types of oil you mention, are they car oils? I'd suggest get a decent quality semi-synthetic oil from a bike shop.
Hope this helps.
dhanvic08
24th May 2005, 21:13
Sir,
I have purchased a Shell Advance VSX4 10w/40 synthetic oil yesterday,and looked at the oil filter as I was about to change-oil. the filter has B6Y1-14-302 writen "Replacement for Mazda" and its made in Japan too...I tried searching for the replacement, but I cant find one at the moment.
I look forward to get a replacement before the end of the week and change oil.
ITs a good sunny day only in the morning here in the Philippines, but is raining hard in the afternoon so am not using my bike to and from the office for now.
BTW, what's the difference between a 20W40 MC-oil to 10W40?A Mechanic told me it will work on my bike with no problem...please help, I dont want to end up with a real headache once I have problem with the bike after change oil...TIA
I'm not familiar with that type of oil, so can't comment. Good luck with finding the filter.
I think I looked up ages ago what the 10W40 etc means, but I can't remember. If no one else answers in this thread, maybe you should start another thread to get more attention?
dhanvic08
25th May 2005, 19:45
I have opened anotoher thread bout the oil stuff dude! Thanks!
Im planning to check everything else mate, just purchased a new set of Platinum plugs CR8E-GP and is planning to clean the air filter...I wonder If i need to replace it or just clean it myself.
Sir Erik, do you have any idea of how to get to the air filter thingy?can it be replaced with other materials or i need to purchase a new one?
Your comments and suggestions will be highly appreciated.,Thanks!!!
Be careful when you're changing the plugs that no bits of stone etc get into the cylinders. It would probably be good if you had an air compressor to blast around the plugs a bit to blow any loose dirt out of around the plugs before you remove them.
The airfilter is in the airbox under the tank. See the attached pic. I haven't got a pic of the actual filter though, but it's circular and goes in the hole in the airbox. I haven't replaced mine yet, but you might be able to replace the filter material with uni filter foam or something similar, but I haven't got any experience with that. I'm not sure how much a new filter would be or if there are aftermarket ones available - I'm new at this too.
[edit: remembered to attach the pic...]
dhanvic08
26th May 2005, 17:40
Thank you very much sir Erik!
That's a good looking bike you got there, lots of miles covered but it looks fresh dude!
so there is where the air-filter is, I looked at mine last night and the only way to get to the filter is to get the tank off which has a couple of bolts under the small plastic container where I keep my keys and a small sandwich! hehehe!
I'll inspect the air filter this week-end and will be using a compressor as you've mentioned.
Thanks again mate!
I'll post the updates here. :D
dhanvic08
21st June 2005, 18:41
Hello there!
I just cleaned the airfilter a couple of weeks ago and went to a long ride! Lots of twisties which I very much enjoyed made my face turn greeeeen!!! hehehe!
I just love the raoring sound of the engine, It accelerates well on strates and handles great on curves. I guess Im beginning to have what you call rythm..heheh!
what's left to change is the fuel filter, and Im planning to place an aftermarket air filter too...I think a K&N filter will do... any suggestions of other filters sir?
erik
22nd June 2005, 07:49
what's left to change is the fuel filter, and Im planning to place an aftermarket air filter too...I think a K&N filter will do... any suggestions of other filters sir?
Sorry, nope I haven't looked into getting a new airfilter (other than the genuine yamaha part), so I can't help. Maybe someone else here might know?
If you find an aftermarket filter that fits, let us know because I might have to change my filter sooner or later, and other zeal riders could benefit too. :)
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