My fairing issues and plastic polishing!

[HungusMaximist]

This whole cracks in the fairing issue get a lot of publicity on here and there's been tons of stuff written about it, but I'll just get it over with and tell you my story.

Issue 1

As you can see in the attached pictures below there's a nice crack at the top right hand head cowl fairing where the mirror sits. It just happens to be one of the most fragile points there is and if it does snap off the bike is gonna be a bit stuffed as to where the mirror is going to sit.

I've heard the whole story about plastic welding is the best bet cause it solves everything, but not gonna do it as it's gonna cost/ruin the pain work/the crack is way too small.

There's also epoxy glue, fibre glass, plastic repair kits (sheets of fibre glass?), and D.I.Y. plastic welding with plastic coat hangers?

Issue 2

My Ventura headlight guard has taken a hiding (see pic 3), I want to polish it out a bit or at least get some of the deep scratches out and I don't want pay $70.00 for new piece of plastic with velcro.

Heard you could take it to a glass repairer/plastic technician and see what sort of industrial polish they got.

[vifferman]

Fairing crack: use JB Weld on the inside. It will be stronger than the original fairing plastic. To be sure, you can reinforce it with some mesh (I used aluminium insect screen mesh for the last job I did).

Headlight guard: Those gouges are pretty deep, so you may need to sand it lightly with a fine grade (1200?) wet-and-dry sandpaper. Then use "Swirl Remover", followed up by "Plastix" (or is it "Plastex"?), then use Pledge or Plexus to finish off. If you use an electric buffer the job will be quicker, easier and more betterer.

[HungusMaximist]

What exactly is JB weld?

[vifferman]

What exactly is JB weld?
Who knows? :spudwhat:

:blink:

It's a two-part epoxy that sets as hard as steel. I've seen it for sale on TardMe, but you can also buy it from the 4WD speicalists on the corner of Hillside Road and Poland Road in Glenfield. It's $14, from memory.

[ManDownUnder]

Sounds a bit stupid - but try a little bit of Armorall on the lens cover. I know it works incredibly well for shallow scuffs on the RF's windscreen (like - they GO TOTALLY AWAY).

Not sure how well it would work on those mammoth beasties but... it's worth a go! I'd try it on a little bit to start with and see how you get on.

[vifferman]

Another thought with the crack: you may find that if you dribble a bit of superglue along the back of the crack, it will wick into the crack, and help with the repair. But (however!) don't try to wipe any excess off the painted side if it dribbles through: it will make a mess. Let it dry first.
With the epoxy or JB Weld (if you decide to go that way), it helps if you 'key' the surfaces before you apply it. Use some coarse sandpaper or scratchy thing (technical term) to roughen the surface and give it summat to adhere to.

[Owl]

That light guard can be easily repaired if you have the know-how. I'd do it for you free of charge if you were local as it would take me about 5 minutes.
Vifferman is on the right track, but you can actually use coarse sanding discs on an orbital sander (DA). For really deep scratches, you could start with P320 dry, followed by P500 dry, P800 wet by hand, P2000 wet by hand, wet sanding pad approx P3000-4000 grit. Use a fine hand cutting compound if cutting by hand or preferably use something coarser and buff with machine. Each stage would take about a minute as you are only removing the sanding scratches from the previous paper working your way down so to speak. I have to do this all the time with plastic taillights and headlights.:2thumbsup

[HungusMaximist]

That light guard can be easily repaired if you have the know-how. I'd do it for you free of charge if you were local as it would take me about 5 minutes.
Vifferman is on the right track, but you can actually use coarse sanding discs on an orbital sander (DA). For really deep scratches, you could start with P320 dry, followed by P500 dry, P800 wet by hand, P2000 wet by hand, wet sanding pad approx P3000-4000 grit. Use a fine hand cutting compound if cutting by hand or preferably use something coarser and buff with machine. Each stage would take about a minute as you are only removing the sanding scratches from the previous paper working your way down so to speak. I have to do this all the time with plastic taillights and headlights.:2thumbsup

Thanks for that, I'll try your advice.

Just wanted to know if anybody here has access to a sander as such that I could come over and use.

[HungusMaximist]

Right, my cracks got worse and it needs urgent attention.

Now from what I keep hearing, layering with sheets of fibre glass is the way to go.

Thing is, where do I get a fibre glass repair kit? I don't wanna pay over $30.00 for such a small job.

I heard they do it in Warehouse?

Anybody with any experience in this area please give me your suggestions!!!

[Disco Dan]

Right, my cracks got worse and it needs urgent attention.

Now from what I keep hearing, layering with sheets of fibre glass is the way to go.

Thing is, where do I get a fibre glass repair kit? I don't wanna pay over $30.00 for such a small job.

I heard they do it in Warehouse?

Anybody with any experience in this area please give me your suggestions!!!


Done a little bit of plastic repair before, I got fiberglass patches and all the resin etc in one kit for just over $20 at Ripco.

I'd be keen to give you a quick demo, and/or help you out?

[scumdog]

Right, my cracks got worse and it needs urgent attention.

Anybody with any experience in this area please give me your suggestions!!!

I don't really want to know what is wrong with your 'crack' - just rub some ointment on it and go to the doctors eh!:dodge:

BUT: Try drilling a tiny hole through the fairing ( or whatever) right at the 'pointy' end of the crack - make sure it's exactly at the end of the crack, not a bit before it.

The hole will stop the crack from getting even longer or spreading.

[Steve Gauge]

go to an experienced plastic welder get it fixed properly you will need to repaint it the crack will only get worse , also fix your subframe its obviously streessing your fairing and is probaly bent , good luck

[flyingbrick]

I don't really want to know what is wrong with your 'crack' - just rub some ointment on it



hahahahahahha..

JB weld, i understand, is the same as kneedit. Its a two part epoxy putty. Please correct me if im wrong.

Fairings are completely the wrong application for JB weld. Although its supposed to be "stronger" than steel its actually incredibly brittle and will separate from the fairing as soon as the fairing flexes. Plus it will look ugly as sin.

As others have said you are far better off using epoxy resin and fibreglass on the inside of teh fairing to reinforce it.
dont use fibreglass matt (chopped strand). Its messy and is too easy to make look ugly :-(. Use woven glass cloth... OR if ya wanna look elite- carbon fibre cloth.

[Disco Dan]

Right, my cracks got worse and it needs urgent attention.

Now from what I keep hearing, layering with sheets of fibre glass is the way to go.

Thing is, where do I get a fibre glass repair kit? I don't wanna pay over $30.00 for such a small job.

I heard they do it in Warehouse?

Anybody with any experience in this area please give me your suggestions!!!

Hows that crack looking now dude :apint:

[vifferman]

JB weld, i understand, is the same as kneedit. Its a two part epoxy putty. Please correct me if im wrong.

You're wrong.
It's a two-part epoxy resin, more like Araldite than Kneadit, in that you squeeze equal parts from each of two tuvbes, and it is much stronger than either. I doubt that it will come off with flexing - I've applied it to polypropylene, which logic would tell you would be silly to do, given that polypropylene is basically a greasy surface and very flexible, but to my amazement, it stuck very well AND was stronger than the original fitting. Kneadit in the same application would've fallen off immediately, and Araldite wouldn't have lasted long.

[bungbung]

JB Weld is steel reinforced epoxy. It's pretty much powdered metal in araldite.
Google "steel reinforced epoxy" for other manufacturers.

It is available in a putty version as well. (Like knead-it + steel powder)

[flyingbrick]

oooooh, that makes sense then :-D didnt realise there were two versions.

[Spindizzy]

I've fixed my fairing with fiberglass and resin. After my bike got dropped the fairing broke at the same places again. I've now welded the fairing instead of using glue or resin and it makes a much more stable impression.
:2thumbsup

[imdying]

Bugger all that rubbish. If it's a fibreglass fairing, then glass it. If it's plastic, then plastic weld it. JB weld/araldite/super glue, none of those will do the job correctly... it'll break at the same place again eventually. You're better off just leaving it alone if you're going to nigger it up.

[TOTO]

So Ewen , did you get it sorted that fairing ?

If Yes , how , as i may need it for my future faired bike...

if NO, have you called Reflections (http://www.reflectionsmc.co.nz/index.html) on the shore - I've heard they are pretty competent with the stuff you need done.

[White trash]

Right, my cracks got worse and it needs urgent attention.

Now from what I keep hearing, layering with sheets of fibre glass is the way to go.

Thing is, where do I get a fibre glass repair kit? I don't wanna pay over $30.00 for such a small job.

I heard they do it in Warehouse?

Anybody with any experience in this area please give me your suggestions!!!
Hang on, you've got a nice 8K bike there, and you don't wanna spend $30 to fix it properly? Get a clue.

I've got a friend who could weld that, fix it proper, touch the paint up and you'd never know it'd been fixed. Might cost ya 150 bucks. Small outlay for keeping your pride and joy looking mint I reckon.