Log in

View Full Version : Fibreglass and carbon work.



dilz
4th May 2008, 11:10
hey all,ive been doing the body work on a hybrid race bike recently for a top bloke.its an rgv 250 frame with a ns 400 engine in it.it also has many other trick parts eg ohlins forks,magnesium wheels,brembo brakes etc.

heres a pic of the tank i made for him,its carbon and has patches of kevlar where it could need it if the bike goes down.we moulded the original tank and also have moulded a gp500 tail unit which we have cut and extended to fit the bike.this has yet to be made and will be carbon and self supporting and require no subframe.let me know what ya think:cool:

EZAS
4th May 2008, 11:54
Stunningly amazing IMO!!!
Are you able to give a quote for the tank?

Sam I Am
4th May 2008, 12:16
Stunningly amazing IMO!!!
?
totally agreed on that..... Just wish i had some cash to commission a set !!!

Squiggles
4th May 2008, 13:24
looks awesome

CookMySock
4th May 2008, 15:13
it looks fully sick. Is it much lighter ?

DB

dilz
4th May 2008, 16:40
thank you all for the feedback!
il have to get back to you on a quote,would that be for an rgv tank(pictured)? or for making a mould to suit the bike you have in mind,then making one?
the cost difference between the two would be alot.

yes this tank is much lighter than the steel one,it weighs in at 0.9kgs,the original tank weighs over 3.0kgs

as soon as i have some free time il be advertising my services for fibreglass repairs/mould making and carbon work,but just at the mo im flat out with work and the race bike im currently working on.

im happy to answer any reasonable questions for any riders having a go at fiberglassing themselves wen i get the time to check my messages.

thanks again...peace!

westie
4th May 2008, 19:10
Very high quality finish. Great job.
Can never convince myself to make moulds. Time x money x effort.
You obviousely put alot into it.:first:

slowpoke
4th May 2008, 22:17
Corr! I got wood just looking at it...just as well I can't run my hands over it or there'd be an embarrassing amount of polish to clean up!
Well done fella, nice to see something a bit different too.

imdying
5th May 2008, 19:34
thank you all for the feedback!
il have to get back to you on a quote,would that be for an rgv tank(pictured)? or for making a mould to suit the bike you have in mind,then making one?If it's a VJ22 tank, then how much for one? I'm guessing the sides have some kevlar in them too? (i.e. not just straight carbon alone?)

Coyote
5th May 2008, 20:04
How much did it cost in supplies?

Can you give me some instructions to make my own carbon tank? I have some basic fibreglassing knowledge and have worked with fibreglass before. As I understand it carbon fibre is the same but I'm sure there's some tricks to it I don't know.

dilz
5th May 2008, 20:55
If it's a VJ22 tank, then how much for one? I'm guessing the sides have some kevlar in them too? (i.e. not just straight carbon alone?)

il hav to check model again,around $800 to a painted stage and the owner fits hardware ie fuel cap,breather,fuel tap and bladder if needed.

im keen to get started on sum,but like i said im really full on at the mo so couldn't commit to one for at least a month.

yea mate it has kevlar on the protruding areas where it contacts first in a slide (heres hoping its just a slide :doh:)

AllanB
5th May 2008, 21:01
I could not work out why the images were showing as R rated - then I opened them - instant boner!

nice work.

Now get making some carbon fibre side covers for the Hornet 900's. Oh yeah.

dilz
5th May 2008, 21:03
How much did it cost in supplies?

Can you give me some instructions to make my own carbon tank? I have some basic fibreglassing knowledge and have worked with fibreglass before. As I understand it carbon fibre is the same but I'm sure there's some tricks to it I don't know.

hey bro,thats alot of instructions to type :eek5:

what exzactly do you want to know??

dilz
5th May 2008, 21:22
http://www.kiwibiker.co.nz/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=94845&stc=1&d=1209979344
carbon tank1.jpghttp://www.kiwibiker.co.nz/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=94846&stc=1&d=1209979344
carbon tank5.jpg

Coyote
6th May 2008, 18:41
hey bro,thats alot of instructions to type :eek5:

what exzactly do you want to know??
Haha, fair enough.

It's too expensive to be playing around with isn't it? I should be practising with fibreglass weave or something first right?

CookMySock
6th May 2008, 19:47
how did you get the correct shape ? url ?

DB

dilz
6th May 2008, 20:14
Made two molds,one of the top and one of the bottom.laminated carbon components with the moulds then once they cured they are released from the mould,trimmed up and preped for a join,then glue is applied to join surfaces and they are joined and clamped until cured.
hope this helps bro.
:2thumbsup

dilz
6th May 2008, 20:48
Haha, fair enough.

It's too expensive to be playing around with isn't it? I should be practising with fibreglass weave or something first right?

hey bro
yea its pricey and even experienced users make mistakes,its all about how u handle the carbonfiber twill,if your going for a clear finish i find it easier to wet the surface with your resin and lay your twill on to it dry and once it is stuck down how you want it continue to gently wet the carbon.Wet twill is nearly imposable to handle without stretching the weave out of shape.Practice makes perfect:niceone:

CookMySock
6th May 2008, 21:56
did you take a mold of an existing tank ? Will you post-cure it for petrol compatibility ? Which resin ? I must do one out of plain glass just for fun.

DB

fLaThEaD FreD
6th May 2008, 23:57
hey bro
yea its pricey and even experienced users make mistakes,its all about how u handle the carbonfiber twill,if your going for a clear finish i find it easier to wet the surface with your resin and lay your twill on to it dry and once it is stuck down how you want it continue to gently wet the carbon.Wet twill is nearly imposable to handle without stretching the weave out of shape.Practice makes perfect:niceone:

you can use 3m tack spray to hold it in place and it wont affect the resin...also apply a layer of surface tissue over it so it dosent move arround while rolling it /wetting it out.....cheers
:scooter:

imdying
7th May 2008, 08:03
you can use 3m tack spray to hold it in place and it wont affect the resin...also apply a layer of surface tissue over it so it dosent move arround while rolling it /wetting it out.....cheers
:scooter:
That's that 3m Super 77 right? Where can I get that in NZ?

What do you mean by surface tissue? You mean super lightweight glass?

fLaThEaD FreD
7th May 2008, 13:29
That's that 3m Super 77 right? Where can I get that in NZ?

What do you mean by surface tissue? You mean super lightweight glass?

try any 3m supplier ,maybe associated with upholstry industry or even a packaging supplier. As for the tissue, ring Jim or Irene at Nuplex ChristChurch Branch and tell them you have spoken to Peter at the Henderson branch and you need some surface tissue part # FSTP300 or even the 250 will do. Its cheap as around $4.00mtr if I remember correctley. I dont have access to the system as I'm at home recovering from a bin cupla weeks ago......Cheers Peter:Oops:

imdying
7th May 2008, 13:46
try any 3m supplier ,maybe associated with upholstry industry or even a packaging supplier. As for the tissue, ring Jim or Irene at Nuplex ChristChurch Branch and tell them you have spoken to Peter at the Henderson branch and you need some surface tissue part # FSTP300 or even the 250 will do. Its cheap as around $4.00mtr if I remember correctley. I dont have access to the system as I'm at home recovering from a bin cupla weeks ago......Cheers Peter:Oops:You are continuing the excellent service I have received from Nuplex :yes:

imdying
7th May 2008, 13:47
One more thing... overseas composite sites have infusion starter kits, but nothing like them appears to be available from Nuplex down here... something you would have a line on perhaps?

fLaThEaD FreD
7th May 2008, 13:52
One more thing... overseas composite sites have infusion starter kits, but nothing like them appears to be available from Nuplex down here... something you would have a line on perhaps?
But Im sure Jim could put something together for you. We havent had much infusion training as such but I have a infusion table to play on at my shop and have done a little.........Peter 021 618-971 pvt

imdying
7th May 2008, 14:23
I'll definitely come visit next time I'm in Auckland on leisure! :)

fergie
8th May 2008, 16:05
bloody nice job! any chance of pics of the finished bike?

Badcat
8th May 2008, 16:18
that tank is pure sex.
very impressive.

ken

dilz
8th May 2008, 21:36
bloody nice job! any chance of pics of the finished bike?

thanx mate,yea il keep posting pics of the progress.

Swoop
9th May 2008, 09:39
...also apply a layer of surface tissue over it so it dosent move around while rolling it /wetting it out.
Would "peel ply" do the same thing?

humphrt
9th May 2008, 12:25
Big ups dude, that tank looks freak'n awesome. I'd love to make a carbon fibre lower fairing and wheel guards for my VTR250 some time but too much else to do first. Keep up the good work.

fLaThEaD FreD
9th May 2008, 12:26
Would "peel ply" do the same thing?
I dont know.The tissue is so light and will conform to intricate shapes and corners without conceding much weight as the resin in the carbon should be enough to wet the tissue. I would think the peelply would not sit as well in the tight places. Easy answer is do a small test laminate and compare the two...cheers

Swoop
9th May 2008, 14:23
I dont know.The tissue is so light and will conform to intricate shapes and corners without conceding much weight as the resin in the carbon should be enough to wet the tissue. I would think the peelply would not sit as well in the tight places.
I have never personally used peel ply on a job, but there is a 9m carbon fibre sport boat being built nearby, which I have been taking an interest in.
Peel ply (thin cloth) is layed over the surface during the construction to keep the resin uniform, and provides protection during the reat of the build.
On the yacht, it is just about to be peeled off and the clearcoat applied, before the hull and deck is joined.
It has been a bloody interesting process and a good learning curve for me.

imdying
9th May 2008, 14:52
Heheheh, I suspect Paul is well familiar with what peel ply is :lol:

He's right though, it won't be the best... the tissue will wet out and go into any shape you like, the peel ply however is tightly woven (a bit like silk I guess), and won't conform around detail, as it just wants to clump into pleats.

dilz
27th July 2008, 12:45
he all,more pics of this project uploaded to my albums,have a look if interested.cheers:cool:

CookMySock
27th July 2008, 13:00
Its bloody interesting watching your work.. When you are making a plug from scratch, how do you get both sides symmetrical ?

DB

dilz
27th July 2008, 13:08
measurements,feel and time mostly mate.Hard to get perfect results when things are hand made so it never will be but i get it as close as i can.thanks

flyingbrick
29th August 2008, 17:21
I love this thread and have a few questions myself.. basically- I made a fibreglass pod for my subwoofer as shown here: http://www.knockturnal.org/forums/showthread.php?t=6363&page=3

The problem is that after two weeks certain areas have become lumpy and its no longer glassy smooth like it was origionally. Is this due to me doing the fibreglassing/sanding/painting over three days? I do slightly recall seeing something on the resin tin saying "leave for a week before painting" or something.

How long does resin and bog continue to shrink and move for after application?

Thanks dude- your work is beautiful!

Swoop
29th August 2008, 17:34
Resin will be dry to the touch after 6-8 hours(ish).
Full hardness and strength will take about 5-7 days and curing will vary on temperature.

imdying
29th August 2008, 17:42
I finally have my oven in the roof! My VER stuff should be well cured in a few days without too much bother.

Jerry74
29th August 2008, 17:58
Very nice work there

fLaThEaD FreD
29th August 2008, 20:21
Resin will be dry to the touch after 6-8 hours(ish).
Full hardness and strength will take about 5-7 days and curing will vary on temperature.

In Breif
Full cure aprox 28days in ideal conditions.I...demoulding 24-36 hours or longer the better.
Peter Cave
Nuplex Industries
Technical support
Ph.0800 80 3001