Seized brake pad pin.

[mark247]

Hey guys. My front right brake pad pin is seized hard into the caliper and i managed to round it off with an allan key :bash:
My brake pads are getting low, only a few mm left, so i really need to get this pin out. Would i be right in saying that i could get it out by just splitting the caliper in half and then putting the end of the pin in the vice really tight and unscrewing it by turning the caliper? There is only thread on the top end of the pin ( like in photo ) so im guessing this should work? Any other ideas?

Obviously im going to need to find a replacement pin.

Thanks guys.

[nodrog]

try using vise grips on the pin bit before you split the caliper

[awayatc]

How about easy outs? drill an approriate size pilot hole and give it a shot...But CRC first, and again, and a few hours later again and again before trying to hard....
Oh and replacement pins are no problem through dealers....
Good luck

[mark247]

try using vise grips on the pin bit before you split the caliper

Why not split the caliper? Will i need new seals or something? I remember i split the caliper on my old fzr and i didnt need new seals. I cant get vice grips in there to get it out because the brake pads are in the way. Here is a photo of the pin and caliper etc.

[nodrog]

Why not split the caliper? .....blah....blah.

because it would be a hell of alot quicker and easier just to turn it where it is with a pair of vise grips.

[riffer]

Ah man I remember doing that on my bike. What a shit of a job to get the bloody pin out too - and they cost about $30 for a new one too.

In the end what I did was get an hex bit that was slightly larger and banged the bugger into the munted hole until it was really really tightly in there, then slowly turned it to get the pin out. CRC helps too.

Of course this is assuming you never want to use the pad pin again. I imagine there's some kind of lube you should use on the pin to ensure it doesn't happen again. I bet Frosty knows. I sure as hell don't.

[Ixion]

Copper anti-seize.

[riffer]

Copper anti-seize.


Oh yes. Or Ixion.

Cheers Les.

[vagrant]

The Honda brake caliper strikes again!!:mad:
The stupid little blanking covers can also be an arse to get out.
I was fortunate enough to have access to a machine shop, with a nice machinist, who drilled mine out for a 6 pack. (I tried eazi outs, but the pin was too soft and just chewed out)

Once you get it out, and I recommend the machinist track, try some of these pins. They have an external hex, you don't need the blank plate any longer, and they are cheaper than factory. They also make em in stainless too.($20 the set)

Stick em in with a high temp anti seize like copper coat or neva seize.

http://www.dirtbike.co.nz/default.asp?pageid=100#
(they are about 1/2 way down the page)

[imdying]

The design is fine, it's the lack of maintenance that fucks them. As Ixion says... copperslip. If you can't find any, ring 033796140, speak to guy, tell him you want a WBP sachet. They're about $2 each.

[moT]

this is why i just screw in all my bolts finger tight

[mark247]

I got another pin today for $8 from the Honda shop, it's a tiny bit longer but it should do fine. After that i took it to my usual bike store and they had a go at tapping a bigger allen key in there but it didnt work, so they said drilling it out would be the best option. So i think i might take the caliper off and have a go tonight in the drill press.

Gordie, vice grips ( my main tool of choice when it comes to everything ) will not fit in and wont be able to grip it so i think drilling it will have to be the next step. If that doesnt work ill have to split the caliper...

Im just gonna have to be careful because if the drill piece touches the caliper it will be all over, eeeeek, that alloy or whatever it is is just like butter.

[ManDownUnder]

Not sure I'd want to do it on this one, but here's a trick I've previously seen done to good effect.

Get the removal implement (in this case an allen key) and insert it into the head of the bolt - and arcweld it in/on

Let it cool, apply CRC, let it soak, give it a few taps with an 'ammer and away you go! If you ever choose this optioon though, make coubly sure you attach the earth to the bolt or thing you want to extract/move. If you attach it to whatever the bholt is screwed into - you might have just welded the bolt IN... and that'd be bad.

[mark247]

Not sure I'd want to do it on this one, but here's a trick I've previously seen done to good effect.

Get the removal implement (in this case an allen key) and insert it into the head of the bolt - and arcweld it in/on

Let it cool, apply CRC, let it soak, give it a few taps with an 'ammer and away you go! If you ever choose this optioon though, make coubly sure you attach the earth to the bolt or thing you want to extract/move. If you attach it to whatever the bholt is screwed into - you might have just welded the bolt IN... and that'd be bad.

This was the first thing i thought i could do, but i dont have a welder. And also because the head of the bolt is actually about 3mm into the thread ( so the cap can screw in on top ) it would be mighty tricky to get right..

[ManDownUnder]

This was the first thing i thought i could do, but i dont have a welder. And also because the head of the bolt is actually about 3mm into the thread ( so the cap can screw in on top ) it would be mighty tricky to get right..

Yup - and it might be surrounded by magnesium (depending on how sporty that casting it). If it's "only" Ali you're in trouble - ... magnesium would add a whole new dimension of excitment ...