View Full Version : Bad crankcase seal
My bikes been loosing gear oil and after some reading I think its the crank seal. So I've tried taking the case off but can't get the kickstarter lever off. I got the nut off it and tried levering it off with a screwdriver but it wont budge. Should I try hammering it off, don't want to break it.
Also wheres the best place to get a new seal from?
thx
LittleJohn
27th May 2008, 21:03
Let CRC soak onto the kickstart shaft but can try a hammer lightly. Best place to get crank seals is Spectrum Motorcycles on Barry's Point Rd, also may wanna think about replacing the crank cover gaskets & if everything is open other seals ie kickstart seal, clutch lever arm. Have you got a manual for the bike as some bikes require the crankcase split & crank taken out before seal removal & installation can take place. If ya need any advise talk to Spectrum. (just done engine rebuild on KX125 with lots of help from Spectrum & workshop manual). Cycletreads get in all manuals if not in stock.
cheese
27th May 2008, 21:16
Just take teh motor out adn drop it down to spectrum. It will cost about $100 to do just a crank seal. But I'd advise you get a bottom end rebuild if your budget allows. Crank seal isn't expensive.
I had similar issues getting my kick stater off my RM and I found that cause it had been left on so ong CRC and I had to wiggle it and pry it. you could use a bearing puller.
If you are going to have a crack, is teh crank seal inner or outer? if its outside from bearing you can hook teh old one out and slap a new one in. if its inner you have to split the crank.
cheese
27th May 2008, 21:16
Oh and for the seal, get a price off scott411.
Cheers, yeah i'd like to change it myself, saving money is always good :). Yeah will squirt some CRC into it, and try a hammer. Its an outer seal, I've got the case apart and can see the seal but to get it fully apart the arm needs to be out of the way.
Got it off with crc and hammer, but I was way off thinking it was an outer seal. Looking in manual the case has to be split to get to it. :( Spectrum quoted $350 labour not incl. parts for just the seals and $700 for a rebuild. Have seen you can use a cheap steering puller to split the case, will look into that.
cheese
28th May 2008, 17:12
YEa teh flywheel is a bit of a wanker to get off adn the clutch can be an ass too. Have tou got a rattle gun? make life easier. I've not had to split a crank yet, but if you have some reasonable skills its not too bad apparently. If you're going to split it I'd definately throw some crank bearings in.
cheese
28th May 2008, 17:13
Where are you in Auckland?
LittleJohn
28th May 2008, 17:29
I just done a rebuild on a 99 KX125, including new crank, seals (all), main bearings, clutch hub (it had a fracture), cylinder barrel (didn't want to re-sleeve) and all new gaskets. Cost me about $1500 for all the parts and did everything myself with the use of a $60 workshop manual from Cycletreads (ordered it in for me).
As for the flywheel I got a rotor puller from Repco North Shore that was a perfect fit for $60 (they had one left) and I also have a puller to split the crank casing. The puller needs to have an adjustable width and the two outside arms need to be able to screw into the crank cover bolt holes (Can't remeber where I got mine from) Also need a rattle gun to take off the clutch nut. Then will need some torgue wrenches to re-torgue everything when you put it back together.
Sounds like heaps but is really easy if you can get/borrow the stuff.
Where in Auckland are you??
LittleJohn
28th May 2008, 17:32
Forgot to say that if you go to www.kawaski.com and go under the owner info heading to "parts diagram" you can obtain drawing and part numbers for your bike.
Did Spectrum tell you that you have to split the crank case to change the seals???
The cranks split easy on mine, although the flywheel was a prick to get off. Used a flywheel puller nut thing, and have since brought one from cycletreads for $12. I'm on the shore if you want to use the my flywheel puller nut thing, it fits all jap 2strokes (apparently).
Also I downloaded a workshop manual which was really good (clearer than a clymer), and it was free which was nice.
Full set of gaskets cost me $120, and the crank bearings were cheap from auckland bearing co.
Just ask on here if you get stuck as some of the guys on here have good knowledge, and are very very helpful. And once you've done it, it can save you $$$ in the future.
Yeah was thinking something like this http://www.trademe.co.nz/Browse/Listing.aspx?id=156686810 would work as a puller. I'm trying to get the flywheel off now, but don't have a rattle gun. On justkdx site someone made a flywheel holder with wood to stop it turning, might try that with a wrench. And yeah need to get torque wrench, good you guys found it easy to split the case, inspires confidence :)
I found a downloaded a service manual but its not too helpful, one at www.cyclepedia.com is better.
Yeah will replace bearings while its open.
Spectrum didn't say they were going to split it but after reading kdx forums they say it needs to be split to access seals.
I'm in 3 kings, would be cool to borrow some tools if possible so the total bill isn't too high and buy them later on when needed.
I'm trying to get the flywheel off now, but don't have a rattle gun. On justkdx site someone made a flywheel holder with wood to stop it turning, might try that with a wrench.
Don't damage it mate, would be much easier with a puller. Cycletreads do them for $12 (open late thurs I think), or borrow mine, or bring the engine up. It will only take a second and do no damage, its a LH27x1 by the way.
LittleJohn
28th May 2008, 19:04
I'm also on the shore, and feel free to call in on me. I undone the fly wheel nut by stopping the crank from turning. You need the puller to get the flywheel off the magnets without damaging them. There is one of those harmonic balance pullers in the latest super cheap auto catalogue for $11.50. You will just have to make sure that the main shaft is long enough to push the crank right out. Also a rubber hammer/small mallet is handy, means you won't do any damage.
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