Commuted in this morning

[Mully]

As the title says, I commuted on a bike this morning for the first time in years.

Things I learned:

RFs do not like starting in the cold - thinking a cover may mitigate this
It is seriously cold with your visor open at 0730 in May.
Visors fog if you don't have anything on them and aren't moving - making closing them a bit risky if you aren't moving pretty fast
Splitting (filtering) in slow moving traffic is mentally taxing. Lots of stuff to look out for; on that note:
The Nissin brakes on the front of an RF make it stop pretty quickly when a Mitsi pulls in front of you

Fun though. The best way to start the day. Pity I was riding to work.....

[DingoZ]

You also have the commute home to look forward to as well...:)

[riffer]

Hey Mully.

The RF should start instantly in the morning, no matter how cold it is. I live in Upper Hutt, which gets nearly as cold as Central Otago in winter.

You need full choke, and no throttle.

If you're having starting problems try this:

1. Change plugs. RFs take an NGK CR9E, or CR9EIX if you're feeling rich (Iridium)
2. Change the Air Filter
3. Check the choke cable. The cable has a habit of getting a bit loose and can even come undone from its position on the top rail of the carb holding rail. Lift the tank off and check the cable is working properly.

Do this stuff and she'll start perfectly every time.

Another tip for winter with the RF. She'll struggle in the wet. The low tension leads end in a junction box just behind the steering head and water can get in here and short out the wires, causing it to intermittently run on two cylinders. What usually happens here is you wind the throttle on to compensate (usually on a corner too) and then it goes back to four cylinders. End result - back tyre spin. Not good in the wet.

It also gets water in the spark plug tops. They are covered by a rubber bun which has holes in it. Why I have no idea because they let the water in and don't let it out again. Moist spark plug caps = bad running too.

Solution is to get some vaseline and rub it into the junction box, and also smear the top of the spark plug cap cover bungs as well. Also a bit around where the low tension leads hit the coils helps too.

I do this every winter and my bike NEVER does the RF cut out trick in the rain.

[Mully]

You need full choke, and no throttle.

I do this every winter and my bike NEVER does the RF cut out trick in the rain.

Cheers, Riffer.

I was using part choke and part throttle. Will try full choke and no throttle tomorrow morning.

Will use the rest of your winterproofing tips this weekend and see what happens.

[Swoop]

Jolly good stuff, Mully!

I'll keep an eye out for a filterer on an RF!:clap::wacko:;)

[Pogo2]

I'm convinced that the best part of my job is the ride to work and the ride home. Plus it saves gas and I don't have to pay $8 for parking.

Might just see you out there but I'm usually on the road by 6.15.

[C_A]

need the vaseline on leads trick on my rg. it drops a cylinder in town when it's raining

[FROSTY]

Hmm riffer --wonder where ya got that info from lol
-I'll second riffer on the no throttle full choke bit.
Id also say fuggit dude just chuck a new seta plugs in her and drain the carbs given its been standing for yonks.
I'd also suggest (and Im being serious here) you might wanna give the bike to smeone to give it a damb good thrash for at least a half hour.
With it having stood around for awhile I think it needs to be got high revs over a little while to blow all the cobwebs out.
Bet itll run heaps better if ya just do that

[yod]

You need full choke, and no throttle.



yep - worked with mine every time too

[Mully]

Hmm riffer --wonder where ya got that info from
Id also say fuggit dude just chuck a new seta plugs in her and drain the carbs given its been standing for yonks.
I'd also suggest (and Im being serious here) you might wanna give the bike to smeone to give it a damb good thrash for at least a half hour.
With it having stood around for awhile I think it needs to be got high revs over a little while to blow all the cobwebs out.
Bet itll run heaps better if ya just do that

It's a well known fact that Riffer is an expert on vaseline.... Oh and RFs.

Thanks for the input Frosty. Got Oil and filter to do this weekend. Will do plugs and maybe air filter too (bloody bike is dearer than the cage was, and it's paid for).

How do I drain carbs?? I've used a couple of tanks of gas - do I still need to drain them?? Or would I have already dragged the crap through the engine??

I'll bring it round for you to try the new bearings out. Jorja said I had to bring it after last weekend.......

[riffer]

Dunno about being an expert. I've just had mine for over 3 years so I've learnt a few of its idiosyncracies.

There's a drain plug at the back of the float bowls on each carb.

Use a small Philips screwdriver, and catch the petrol in a small cup.

And Frosty's right about the thrashing. Give it a sustained run in 3rd gear, accelerating quickly, then decelerating, then accelerating. It'll run much smoother afterwards.

On a private road of course. :mellow:

RFs just LOVE new oil. 3000mls with no oil filter change. 3300mls with oil filter change.

Check also if you haven't had a bit of oil go up the crankcase breather into the airbox. It's happened to me when I overfilled it one time.