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Sage
28th August 2003, 16:01
Hey I've just brought myself a new set of "wave" discs for my offroad bike and was wondering since the old pads wern't flat but slightly curved and rough should I replace the pads or just let them wear down till they're flat?
Also should I use sintered pads on the rear as it is an offroad bike so i'd use the rear brake a little more than if I were on the road? Anyone had any experince with this?

Antallica
28th August 2003, 16:12
Might as well replace them eh, they are cheap enough?

Dave
3rd September 2003, 16:23
For the cost of a new disc, I wouldn't piss around with old pads,Get some new pads and you'll realise the benefits of a new braking set up.
I wouldn't use the sintered on the rear-yes you use it heaps but theres next to no weight on it-therefore not much grip/heat.
try a good composite pad and remember to take your time and bed them in!
Most people fit new brakes and head off thinking-i'm gonna try them out. Only to promptly overheat them before they bed in.
Causing squealing and poor performance for the life of the pad.
Have fun

Andrew
3rd September 2003, 20:50
For the price of the discs (I know they aren't cheap) you might aswell replace the pads.

Racey Rider
17th March 2004, 18:49
...try a good composite pad and remember to take your time and bed them in!
Most people fit new brakes and head off thinking-i'm gonna try them out. Only to promptly overheat them before they bed in.
Causing squealing and poor performance for the life of the pad.

So what does one do to "Bed them in"?
When I put new pads in the rear of one of my bikes, they felt good at first, but it wasn't long before they lost that "feel". Ran them in on the track without much thought. But didn't think I would/could overheat a rear set. Hardley used them! Should I take them out and file/scuff them up abit and start again?

Also need new front brake pads for the KR150 I want to race.
What type of compostion should I get? Just grab cheap one's? (it's only a light 150). Or Expensive Duel carbon racing jobby's?
And how do I "Bed them in"? :spudwhat:

riffer
17th March 2004, 19:08
And how do I "Bed them in"? :spudwhat:
Hey RR,

I did mine weekend before last. Used Emery Paper - like quite rough fabric backed sandpaper. Went around the rotors using a circular motion trying to get as much shit off them as possible. It leaves like fine scratches around the rotors.

Don't know if its 'cause I'm crap at brakes but I found I had to rebleed them after a couple of days to get rid of the last bits of air - Mind you I had blown a heap of compressed air through them to get the shit out of the lines so not surprising.

Good luck.

White trash
18th March 2004, 09:34
Hey RR,

I did mine weekend before last. Used Emery Paper - like quite rough fabric backed sandpaper. Went around the rotors using a circular motion trying to get as much shit off them as possible. It leaves like fine scratches around the rotors.

Don't know if its 'cause I'm crap at brakes but I found I had to rebleed them after a couple of days to get rid of the last bits of air - Mind you I had blown a heap of compressed air through them to get the shit out of the lines so not surprising.

Good luck.

You must have the best set up FZR on the planet now, "Cetlicno6" :niceone:

pete376403
18th March 2004, 12:04
So what does one do to "Bed them in"?
When I put new pads in the rear of one of my bikes, they felt good at first, but it wasn't long before they lost that "feel". Ran them in on the track without much thought. But didn't think I would/could overheat a rear set. Hardley used them! Should I take them out and file/scuff them up abit and start again?

Also need new front brake pads for the KR150 I want to race.
What type of compostion should I get? Just grab cheap one's? (it's only a light 150). Or Expensive Duel carbon racing jobby's?
And how do I "Bed them in"? :spudwhat:


Instructions that came with the pads I put in the GS (EBC aftermarket pads) said to accelerate to about 50km and then apply the brakes hard down to a stop, and repeat this several times. These were for plain ol', common or garden pads, nothing fancy.

riffer
18th March 2004, 15:14
You must have the best set up FZR on the planet now, "Cetlicno6" :niceone:
Fuck, I wish... Either that, or I had the FZR with the least preventative maintenance on it when I got it.

Nah - I just like to know my bike is ok. I got it in labour weekend and as its 17 years old, I just want it going as good as it can go.

Done so far:

Steering head (cheers Pete376403)
Front brakes (cylinders, lines, calpiers, brakes)
spark plugs
oil filter & oil
air filter
carbs

riffer
18th March 2004, 15:17
Still to do:

Back brake lines/calipers, master cylinder, brakes.
Swingarm bearing (just in case)
Wheel bearings (just in case)
clean up fairings and repaint (just because)
replace headlight bulbs with stronger ones (if it will handle it) - 2 x 35w at present
flush and replace hydraulic fluid in clutch


Is this too much - I reckon its just normal, routine maintenance to ensure a bike which is used 70-100kms daily will stay out of trouble.

riffer
18th March 2004, 15:18
Instructions that came with the pads I put in the GS (EBC aftermarket pads) said to accelerate to about 50km and then apply the brakes hard down to a stop, and repeat this several times. These were for plain ol', common or garden pads, nothing fancy.
Did that with the Galfers on the FZR - sanded them first, then practiced stoppies down Melrose St for about quarter of an hour - then rebled the brakes.

:whistle: just testing the new brakes Officer...

Dave
18th March 2004, 15:39
To bed in the brakes, Accelerate to 50/60 km/h Brake firmly down to about 10km/h (do not stop) accelerate again up to 50/60 and repeat.
Leave about 300 meters between stops and do this about 6 times, after that you can increase speed and brake a little harder.
- The easier you are on the brake pads in the initial stages, the better they will perform and longer they will last.

riffer
18th March 2004, 15:41
- The easier you are on the brake pads in the initial stages, the better they will perform and longer they will last.
Shit. So much for my theory. Looks like I'll be putting in new ones in 6 months....

James Deuce
18th March 2004, 19:17
Still to do:

Back brake lines/calipers, master cylinder, brakes.
Swingarm bearing (just in case)
Wheel bearings (just in case)
clean up fairings and repaint (just because)
replace headlight bulbs with stronger ones (if it will handle it) - 2 x 35w at present
flush and replace hydraulic fluid in clutch


Is this too much - I reckon its just normal, routine maintenance to ensure a bike which is used 70-100kms daily will stay out of trouble.

You're just about as anal as me mate!

riffer
19th March 2004, 07:21
You're just about as anal as me mate!
Oooooh - I forgot the biggie.

I also need to check/replace/adjust the valve shims and cam chain sometime in the next 6 months.

Although with 20 valves it may be something the shop might have more luck at then me.

Anyone done valves on a FZR? Is it any trickier than a 16-valve bike?

Or just more work?

speedpro
19th March 2004, 11:30
Oooooh - I forgot the biggie.

I also need to check/replace/adjust the valve shims and cam chain sometime in the next 6 months.

Although with 20 valves it may be something the shop might have more luck at then me.

Anyone done valves on a FZR? Is it any trickier than a 16-valve bike?

Or just more work?

Ooohh I love 2-stroke engines

riffer
19th March 2004, 11:42
Ooohh I love 2-stroke engines
Ah yes, but for every valve adjust I do you have two engine rebuilds. :rolleyes:

Racey Rider
19th March 2004, 13:00
:Police: Where are the POST POLICE when you need them?!

Every time I think there's a new answer to my question, It's just YOU LOT.

THIS THREAD IS ABOUT BRAKES!!

Mutter mutter mutter :angry2: Remember to breathe angry face.

Not you Speedpro! Anyone is allowed to say nice things about 2/'s in any post. :niceone:
:done:

Motu
19th March 2004, 14:19
To bed in pads you need to get them hot enough to set the resins,but not enough to melt them which causes glazing - about 10 medium pressure stops with at least half a km between,but never stop completly or when you do never with pressure on the pad.

I'm not a heavy braker,but I want them to work now! ,so I prefer to fit soft pads - these have excelent low speed braking but will fade at high speed...I don't do the high speed bit.For off road use fit a soft pad - but they wear out faster with the dirt and crap.

speedpro
20th March 2004, 21:03
Ah yes, but for every valve adjust I do you have two engine rebuilds. :rolleyes:
Not from what I've been reading on this very site. Of course even if I did have to do an engine rebuild it would cost less than servicing a 4-stroke.

Those KR1s are nice bikes, I had great fun getting in amongst them at Wanneroo (Perth) on my CB360. Older readers will have great difficulty believing that. :yes: