Storing bike for a few months - Oil?

[Usarka]

I'm preparing for a bit of a holiday and part of the prep is the storage of vehicles.

Current plan for the bike is to clean it up and give it a spraying with src or silicon or something to protect the metally bits, cover exhaust, chuck it on a paddock stand, slightly deflate front tyre and put on top of a carpet mat. Will then cover with a breathable lid and let simmer for 10 weeks.

Specific question; should I replace the oil before or after storing it? It's about due for a change but not sure if can be arsed doing it twice......?

Any other recommendations that don't require special tools, skill, time or energy?

Muchos Gracias

[slimjim]

na just top it up til full to cap, 10 week's na not long, would fill ya tank too , petrol sit's a bit too, easy to drain off too, take wires off ya's battery too, and truely use a piece of good tape and a warning note , hell yes, motor fill of oil,......................... case someone forget's, happy holiday

[zadok]

I remember reading about this in a bike mag. The recommendation was to drain the oil and refill before you are ready to ride. Sounds good to me.

[CookMySock]

[...] would fill ya [petrol] tank tooThis is important, or you will get corrosion in the fuel tank. Fill it 1-2cm from the brim, or on hot (?) days it will overflow.


I remember reading about this in a bike mag. The recommendation was to drain the oil and refill before you are ready to ride.I wouldn't - someone might start it while you are away.. Leave the old oil in it, and IF the bike is going to get heavily temperature-cycled, then replace it when you get back, since it might collect condensation.

There would be a good argument for changing the oil before and after if the oil was heavily acidic (corrosive), but I expect you change your oil more regularly than this (ie, on time.)

Have a nice trip - where are you off to ?


DB

[nodrog]

for 10 weeks i wouldnt bother doing anything, alot of bikes spend alot more than that sitting around in showrooms (and outside on yards) around the country, with no special treatment.

the world would be in a bigger oil crisis if all these bikes got new oil every time sombody wanted a test ride.

[Usarka]

Good point on the 10 weeks. I'm kind of preparing for the possibilities of being sucked into the mexican Sol hammock of time compression..... :devil2:

[madandy]

Change the oil & filter now. When you return, one of your first impulses will be to ride again :)

Fill fuel tank to full level..

Do you experience great humidity fluctuations in Mianus? No real need to worry about corrosion prevention for just 10 weeks in a gargre.

[wickle]

I'm preparing for a bit of a holiday and part of the prep is the storage of vehicles.

Current plan for the bike is to clean it up and give it a spraying with src or silicon or something to protect the metally bits, cover exhaust, chuck it on a paddock stand, slightly deflate front tyre and put on top of a carpet mat. Will then cover with a breathable lid and let simmer for 10 weeks.

Specific question; should I replace the oil before or after storing it? It's about due for a change but not sure if can be arsed doing it twice......?

Any other recommendations that don't require special tools, skill, time or energy?

Muchos Gracias
Found this on internet might help.

This was originally printed by Suzuki for the GS series, but it's still valid (mostly) for today's bikes.

Material needed
1. Motor Oil
2. Commercial Gasoline Stabilizer
3. Commercial Rust Preventative Fogging Oil (outboard motor type)
4. Commercial Aerosol Rust Preventative (moisture displacing lubricant)
5. Commercial Vinyl and Rubber Preservative
6. Hydrometer for Checking Battery Condition
7. 1 Amp Battery Charger


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Storage Steps
1. Place the motorcycle on its center stand.
2. Thoroughly clean the entire motorcycle. Run the bike until all traces of moisture are gone.

3. Pour the gasoline stabilizer into the fuel tank using the amount of stabilizer recommended by its manufacturer. Unstabilized fuel will form "gum" or "varnish" deposits that will plug the fuel cock and carburetor passageways.

Note: Make sure that the fuel cock lever is in the "on" or "reserve" position. If the lever is left in the prime position, fuel may leak into the engine.

Note: Steps 4a and 4b are for protecting the top end engine components from rust and corrosion. Step 4b is to be used only if fogging oil is not available. Do either 4a or 4b, but do not do both.

4a. Remove the air cleaner element. While the engine is running at idle, spray the rust preventative fogging oil into the air cleaner box. Try to give each cylinder equal amounts of fogging oil. Do this until the engine stalls or emits smoke.

4b. Run the engine for a few minutes to get the stabilized fuel into the carburetors. Then, remove the spark plugs and pour 1 to 2 tablespoons of motor oil into each spark plug hole. Reinstall the spark plugs. Do not reinstall the spark plug caps at this time. Turn the engine over a few times with the electric starter. Now reinstall the spark plug caps.

5. Drain the old engine oil and remove the oil filter, but do not replace it at this time. With fresh oil, refill the crankcase all the way up to the filler cap hole. This step is necessary because the old oil contains acid, moisture and other contaminants that will damage the engine while it is stored.

6. Refill the fuel tank as completely as possible to eliminate any air space and to reduce the chances of the fuel becoming contaminated.

7. Remove the battery. Make sure to remove the negative terminal before the positive terminal. This will remove the battery from the circuit and will eliminate the chance of grounding the positive.terminal with the screwdriver or wrench. Clean the outside of the battery with a mild baking soda and water solution and dry it carefully. Be sure not to get any solution inside the cells. Remove any corrosion from the terminals and from the wiring harness connections. Store the battery in a room that stays above freezing, off the floor, and preferably on a wooden shelf.

8. Spray all of the vinyl and rubber parts with the rubber preservative.

9. Spray the unpainted surfaces of the motorcycle with the rust preservative.

10. Deflate the tires to approximately 20 PSI and block up the front of the motorcycle so both front and rear tires are off of the ground. This will keep the tires from developing permanent "flat" spots.



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During the storage period, be sure to do the following things:
Once a week
Turn the engine over a few times with the kickstarter. This will keep the piston rings free and top end coated with oil. Visually inspect your machine for any fuel or oil leaks or for any other conditions that would be detrimental to the GSÕs condition.

Once a month
Recharge the battery with the one amp battery charger until it is fully charged. If the battery is not kept full charged, it may become permanently damaged and will have to be replaced.



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Procedure for returning to service
1. Clean the entire motorcycle. Note: Use of a commercial degreaser may stain the finish on the engine. Instead, use a mild detergent and water solution.

Caution: Clean the brake disc with alcohol only. This will ensure positive braking.

2. Drain the oil that was in the engine during the storage period. Install a new oil filter and fill the engine with oil as outlined in the service manual.

3. Reinstall the battery. Make sure that the vent hose is connected and routed properly. Install the positive terminal before the negative terminal.

4. Lubricate all places as instructed in the lubrication table in the service manual.

5. Inflate the tires to the correct pressure.

6. Before starting the engine, slowly crank the engine over with the kick starter and listen for any abnormal noises. Also check for smooth movement.

7. Do a complete and thorough inspection of the motorcycle. Then test ride the unit to be sure it is in good condition for the customer to pickup.


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[Pedrostt500]

I wouldnt bother for 10 weeks, maybe get a trickel charger for your battery, topping the tank off sounds a good idea, change the oil only if ya feel ya need to, maybe pump your tyres up a few extra PSI.