View Full Version : How to install hardwire for radar
Does antone have some tips for installing a hardwire for a Beltronics RX65 Radar detector into a 2004 Honda VTR 1000.
Have purchased a stem mount and looking forward to getting it operating.
Cheers.
boomer
29th June 2008, 19:35
goodness.. something like that will never have been tried before. I'm sure people will be here soon to work through it with you.
ALTERNATIVELY YOU COULD try THE search FUNCTION !
.
CookMySock
29th June 2008, 20:02
you really need a wiring diagram or a test meter or testlight, and lots of care and patience. Its going to be really hard to tell you where to wire it to.
sorry.
DB
Max Preload
29th June 2008, 20:45
Probe with a test light for a wire in the fuse/junction box that is powered only when the key is switched on and hook into it. Just make sure it's after the fuse or fit an inline fuse as close as possible to the hook in. It's not that hard.
Gremlin
29th June 2008, 22:46
or... if you have no fucken idea about electronic shit, you stick it straight onto the battery... just remember to constantly unplug (:eek:), and plug in when the bike is on/off... alternatively, you can ask how we laughed when boomer had to keep pushing starting his bike :D
works for me... but then, don't ask me about wiring diagrams... would love to hook it up properly, but no idea :laugh:
Max Preload
29th June 2008, 22:50
or... if you have no fucken idea about electronic shit, you stick it straight onto the battery...
I hope you didn't spoil the potential fun and put a fuse in there! :lol:
Gremlin
29th June 2008, 23:04
I hope you didn't spoil the potential fun and put a fuse in there! :lol:
I was about to say no... but then I remembered that the hardwire had one inline... sadly, I don't even know what fun you are talking about :blink:
The "fun" did come in a different way. Tried to make a 9 day trip south... bike kept cutting out on me, I was forced to turn back after waihi... I was extremely close to throwing it in front of a truck (even tho I like the zx10).
After the trip, on a borrowed bike, I discovered it was all my fault. Somehow the bolt holding the earth for the power commander was almost completely undone... hence the circuit constantly failing, hence cutting in and out... woopsie :stupid:
NinjaBoy
29th June 2008, 23:26
Probe with a test light for a wire in the fuse/junction box that is powered only when the key is switched on and hook into it. Just make sure it's after the fuse or fit an inline fuse as close as possible to the hook in. It's not that hard.
I've always taken the easy way and put a wire tap on the plate light.
Used the indicator light once but that didn't work too well :(
Max Preload
29th June 2008, 23:29
sadly, I don't even know what fun you are talking about :blink:
That would be the sort of fun similar to where the live wire to the horn on your GPz600R comes off, the insulation melts on the header (because the horn is of course mounted behind the headers...) and glues the live wire to a header and blows a major fuse stopping the engine right in the middle of Takanini and Papakura on the southern motorway. You replace the fuse with the spare which also blows. So you find a roadside repair in the form of a piece of wire and head off again only to see smoke billowing from behind the fairing as the wiring loom burns... :eek5:
At least that's how I remember it happening... ummm, I mean that's how the the story I heard went... :whistle:
Gremlin
29th June 2008, 23:33
I've always taken the easy way and put a wire tap on the plate light.
Used the indicator light once but that didn't work too well :(
OHHHHH, now that I remember, DO NOT use the fuel pump circuit...
do I even need to state that it basically has enough juice for the pump... and if you're using some... umm.... <_<
MaxB
30th June 2008, 00:51
Heaps of data on here from previous threads.
Some useful hints may be:
A wiring diagram will save you heaps of time
Some bikes have an accessory/auxillary output from the fuse box area. Ask someone who knows your bike electrics to check this out. My Kwak cable is wired from an accessory feed.
Bel use the RJ11 type connector. You can buy a hard wire kit for about $25-50 complete with fuse depending on how flash you want things. Also places like Jaycar and Dick Smith sell RJ11 cables in their phone accessory sections. Often you can buy an adaptor or extension cable and cut one end off leaving a lead and the RJ11 plug in place.
I made a lead for my ancient twin because the original wiring is so old. You will need two terminals on the lead to connect at the battery, cable ties, an inline fuse holder and the lead. A 12v switch is optional.
I have also seen bikes with a cigar lighter socket wired to the battery using the original Bel smartplug. You can use other goodies like cellphone chargers, etc but the whole assembly takes a lot of space.
Theres a bit there but have fun with the install. Good luck.
davereid
30th June 2008, 08:05
Get a $5 test lamp frpm super cheap or repco.
Find your fuse box, and identify the fuse that powers your brake light.
It will normally be labelled. If its not, put the brake on, and pull fuses out one at a time until you find the correct one.
Use the test lamp ($5) to identify which side of the fuse holder is "live" when the fuse is pulled out.
You want to wire to the other side, so the fuse is protecting the cable to your radar detector.
Be sure to get the polarity the correct way around.
When you remove the cigar lighter plug from the end of the lead, the center pin (its the positive) goes to the fuse, and the outside pin goes to a good earth.
Thanks for your advice. I'm going with the wiring plan, tester and patience. Great feedback much appreciated.
NinjaNanna
30th June 2008, 11:30
If your using the velcro solution to attach it to the Stem Mount, use the "Hook" piece on the mount and the "loop" part on the Radar Detector, that way the other pieces of cloth won't get stuck to the detector when you take it off the bike.
If you bought the plastic weather guard, I didn't put the little piece of velcro on top of my detector which is meant to help hold the plastic lid on (looks ugly). In its place I have a big rubber band that I put around the whole thing for the extra security.
To be able to hear the thing go off at road speeds I've seen a couple of solutions each with their own merits
Screamer (in my view probably the best solution - though I don't have one)
Single sided ear piece (best to get a headphone extension cable as well)
"HARD" (expensive and relies on ensuring its recharged, good because its wireless)
Hollow Piece of tube. (one end slips up inside your helmet beside your ear, the other goes just beside the speaker output and held in place with some bluetack. Cheapest and probably the most fool proof method)
Mines hard wired back to an amplifier under my seat (also mixes in my MP3 player) and I have speakers embeded in my helmet, which lets me also wear my earplugs
Blackbird
30th June 2008, 11:49
If the wiring on a VTR is similar to the Blackbird, you can run the positive lead from the switched outlet of the fuse box under your seat - see pic. Neutral can be connected to the battery terminal. Having it switched eliminates the risk of draining the battery.
Morcs
30th June 2008, 12:14
You could connect it off your dash power supply - though the lights on your dash might just dim a bit.
other alternative is straight to the battery, and its not hard to wire a switch somewhere.
avgas
30th June 2008, 12:23
wire it in parrallel to the lights - when every you start bike up, radar goes.
Also means you have stuff all cable to deal with.
I finished the job yesterday. Wired it off the running light above the main headlight. No real issues so am stoked. Works when key is on so no chance of leaving it on.
Max Preload
7th July 2008, 17:57
I hope you fused it with a much lower rated fuse than the headlight one so if there's a short in your new circuit it hopefully doesn't take your headlight out at an inconvenient moment... like on a moonless night going into a nice high speed sweeper...
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