Brake caliper bolts stuck

[riffer]

Okay, the back brake pads need doing on the RF.

The caliper has two pad locating bolts on it, and they use a 3mm Allen hex key to loosen them.

But the pad locating bolts are stuck, and I've rooted a perfectly good bondhus allen key trying to get them loose.

Any recommendations on a fluid to loosen these bolts off?

[White trash]

You need to get a punch right in the center of the head, and give it a fucken sharp smack with a hammer before trying to loosen it mate. When you put them back in, make sure the thread has a bit of copper based grease on it. Not normal grease.

[James Deuce]

Get a $10 butane pencil torch and heat them up. Then give them a tap. They'll pop right out.

I have some copper grease if you want some.

[FROSTY]

If EVERYTHING else fails you can still replace the pads by splitting the caliper and sliding the new pads on then rebleeding the system. FAR from ideal but if the pads are down to metal............

[Gremlin]

You need to get a punch right in the center of the head, and give it a fucken sharp smack with a hammer before trying to loosen it mate. When you put them back in, make sure the thread has a bit of copper based grease on it. Not normal grease.
sounds violent, it should work :)

then you can chuck a bar on the end of the allen key, to give you more torque, and try to pry it free more gently :yes:

[Ixion]

You need to get a punch right in the center of the head, and give it a fucken sharp smack with a hammer ..

We tried that with SkidMark. Didn't work.

[Ixion]

sounds violent, it should work :)

then you can chuck a bar on the end of the allen key, to give you more torque, and try to pry it free more gently :yes:

It's only 3mm. Won't take too much torque.

[Gremlin]

It's only 3mm. Won't take too much torque.
I'm brilliant at breaking things (even strong metal garden forks) yet I haven't broken an allen key yet, seen them flex/twist before my eyes tho.

Granted, seems highly unusual for bolts for that application to be only 3mm?

[riffer]

It's only 3mm. Won't take too much torque.

You're not wrong there Les. My fingers managed to wreck the allen key.

Excellent ideas people. I will try them tomorrow night.

Gremlin - the bolts aren't 3mm. The hex key required to undo them is a 3mm. the actual bolts are probably 6-8mm, and have most likely NEVER been undone since the factory.

[Gremlin]

Gremlin - the bolts aren't 3mm. The hex key required to undo them is a 3mm. the actual bolts are probably 6-8mm, and have most likely NEVER been undone since the factory.
yep, I assumed that you were talking about the allen key size... still unusual

[erik]

You're not wrong there Les. My fingers managed to wreck the allen key.

Excellent ideas people. I will try them tomorrow night.

Gremlin - the bolts aren't 3mm. The hex key required to undo them is a 3mm. the actual bolts are probably 6-8mm, and have most likely NEVER been undone since the factory.

make sure the heads of the bolts aren't partially filled with crud stopping the allen key from going the whole way in. Maybe it goes without saying. but I thought I might as well mention it.

[breakaway]

I've got the same problem with my CBR's RHS (I think) caliper. Nearly rounded the head last time so gave up.

Will an impact driver work perhaps?

[pete376403]

Grind or cut off a short length of allen key, put it in the appropriate size socket, put socket onto impact driver. Just like we did with the FZR disk rotor bolts.

[Max Preload]

Grind or cut off a short length of allen key, put it in the appropriate size socket, put socket onto impact driver. Just like we did with the FZR disk rotor bolts.

Good idea, but it's tricky geting a 3mm socket in 3/8" drive much less 1/2". I guess a few adapters would do it but I wouldn't want to strike my own 1/4" drive 3mm sockets on the end with a 1/2" impact driver, especially through a series of adapters down to 1/4" square :baby:

[White trash]

We tried that with SkidMark. Didn't work.
Bwahahahahah, best post on KB ever.

[awayatc]

Grind or cut off a short length of allen key, put it in the appropriate size socket, put socket onto impact driver. Just like we did with the FZR disk rotor bolts.

You can buy readymade allen key sockets......:whistle:

[FROSTY]

Over night had a thought.-Again after trying other peoples solutions
Try a 1/4 inch socket allen key.-basicly the heads gonna be half knackered anyhoo so no foul.
ALSO --as tempting as it is to soak the whole area in CRC - be very careful what gets soaked in the stuff.--would be kinda sucky if ya piston seals went bye byes.

[riffer]

Cheers guys.

I'm thinking this part from my favourite tool store will work. If I place it into a 1/4" to 1/2" converter, and bang it with the impact driver it should work okay I reckon.

[rogson]

Is it possible to get vice-grips (small ones) on the pins between the pads (where they go across the disc)?

[riffer]

Yes it is, but that's a ridiculously rough way to do it. I'd reserve that only if all other methods failed and I didn't care if I rooted the locating pins to do it.

At about $25 a pin, it would also be my most expensive option.

[ManDownUnder]

It's only 3mm. Won't take too much torque.

On the RF it's in the centre of a very wide, fine thread too - perfect for jamming up.

Shock and CRC are your friends. CRC it, whack it with a hammer - try "wiggling" it - back and forth is fine - it helps work the CRC in. If it starts moving but stays tight on the way out, don't go too fast. The bolt can heat with friction and bind up again...

As someone said - high temp grease applied on re-assembly. Copper or silver are both good anti fouling compounds, one being considerably cheaper than the other of course...


...bang it with the impact driver it should work okay I reckon.

Bloody good idea - I tried this a while back with a battery drill and it woprked well - set the torque to low (pretend it's a small screw) so it "hammers" as the torque clutch slips. If that doesn't work, ramp the torque up and bit and try again... keep trying till it (hopefully) starts to move.

[oldrider]

Okay, the back brake pads need doing on the RF.

The caliper has two pad locating bolts on it, and they use a 3mm Allen hex key to loosen them.

But the pad locating bolts are stuck, and I've rooted a perfectly good bondhus allen key trying to get them loose.

Any recommendations on a fluid to loosen these bolts off?

ACF-50, (0274-95505) (07-3087354) CEO Graham Bell [www.aero-marine.co.nz ] Cheers John.

[enigma51]

Yes it is, but that's a ridiculously rough way to do it. I'd reserve that only if all other methods failed and I didn't care if I rooted the locating pins to do it.

At about $25 a pin, it would also be my most expensive option.

I used one of those star looking key's the american use that was just bigger. And hammerd it in. They have tapered front so was easy to get it in.

I think to buy new bolts cost less than 5 dollars for both sides. I should add on the suzuki

[Max Preload]

Here's that assembly of adapters and a 4mm socket (not the 3mm because even my 1/4" set doesn't go that small - getting into ignition spanner territory here). Personally, I wouldn't want to give that even a light hit unless it was your socket.. hehe

Why they don't simply use the much better system of a stepped pin with an R-clip is beyond me.


Good idea, but it's tricky geting a 3mm socket in 3/8" drive much less 1/2". I guess a few adapters would do it but I wouldn't want to strike my own 1/4" drive 3mm sockets on the end with a 1/2" impact driver, especially through a series of adapters down to 1/4" square :baby:

[Mully]

RFs have back brakes??

Interesting........