Tyres and chains?

[Benjiboi]

I have two questions, firstly, I have a '07 GT250 with a o-ring type chain.
So to clean it with kerosene is it adequate to wet a rag and give it a good wipe down or do I need to remove and soak it??
And secondly, this might sound stupid, but I know its important to pre warm a bike before riding to keep it working well but what about tyres??
Is it a good idea to start out slow to let them warm up a little to improve grip/performance???
:2thumbsup

[klyong82]

I have two questions, firstly, I have a '07 GT250 with a o-ring type chain.
So to clean it with kerosene is it adequate to wet a rag and give it a good wipe down or do I need to remove and soak it??
And secondly, this might sound stupid, but I know its important to pre warm a bike before riding to keep it working well but what about tyres??
Is it a good idea to start out slow to let them warm up a little to improve grip/performance???
:2thumbsup

I usually use an old toothbrush and brush the chain with kerosene then rag it to make sure I get rid all the dirt (I'll do it twice if I have the time). Then apply chain lube. Of cos if you have the tools to remove the chain it would be better and while you are at it you can clean te swingarm and the undertail etc. Easy job.

Answer to question 2 depends what you are doing with the bike if you are throwing yourself into corners then perhaps it pays to ride the bike and get the tires to optimum temperature. If you have commuting tires which I assume you are as the Hyosung comes with rather cold tires out the showroom....might be wise to do what you said start slow till its warmed up then go hard.

edit: also dont forget to check you have the correct tire pressures they do make a lot of difference in grip and handling.

[CookMySock]

but I know its important to pre warm a bike before riding to keep it working well but what about tyres??Nice bike!

No amount of idling your engine will prepared it for a solid workout, so if you are going to beat hell out of it from the instant you are out the gate then you are going to break it. IF you are riding it off quietly, which is what I assume you are really doing, then you don't need to pre-warm it at all - just start it, idle for ten seconds, and ride it away - keeping the revs under 4-5krpm for 4-5minutes, and don't fatt the throttle hard. One third throttle and one third revs.

No, for commuting you do not need to warm tyres or anything. If you want to lean it wayyy over then the answer is yes, you should let them warm up over 15 mins or so.


HTH,
DB

[xwhatsit]

It's never particularly wise to chuck the bike around with cold tyres. When commuting, if you've only got a 30 minute commute in winter and it's all stop-start nonsense then they might never get fully warmed up. So take it easy -- eventually you learn how a bike feels and responds and you'll feel it in your bones when it's sticking to the road and going around corners on rails. Nothing wrong with nana-ing it everywhere.

WD40 is great to clean chains. Unfortunately, it's more expensive than kero, and I think (?) that the main cleaning stuff in WD40 is kerosene. You're best off taking the chain right off every so often (I do it every couple of oil changes, around 3-4000kms, but my bike munches oil and chains) and give it a really thorough clean with a toothbrush (tricky to get proper access on the bike). I then leave it in some old engine oil overnight. After that I spray on the normal sticky chain lube.

Probably excessive for a modern bike though, especially a smooth twin. You'd be doing better than most numpties if you gave it a wipe with a kero-soaked rag and toothbrush every 500kms then sprayed some Golden Spectro on it.

[Benjiboi]

Thanks for the advice, really I only use the bike for commuting so won't be doing any Casey Stoner wanna-be moves.
I've read a few posts where people have said that they replaced the standard tires for new, what would be the best??
This is for in Christchurch, riding all year round in most conditions.
Thanks!! :woohoo:

[klyong82]

Thanks for the advice, really I only use the bike for commuting so won't be doing any Casey Stoner wanna-be moves.
I've read a few posts where people have said that they replaced the standard tires for new, what would be the best??
This is for in Christchurch, riding all year round in most conditions.
Thanks!! :woohoo:

Dunlop GPR100 for a 250cc should give you adequate grip compared to the OEM Shinko or Arrowmaxes...:headbang:

[The Stranger]

So to clean it with kerosene is it adequate to wet a rag and give it a good wipe down or do I need to remove and soak it??


Just a quick thought when cleaning a chain.
Don't do it with the motor running aye.
I am sure that anyone who does clean the chain with the motor running and in gear has really thought it through and worked out how not to loose a body part - yet I am constantly amazed at how many actually do.
4 that I know of.

[CookMySock]

what [tires] would be the best?? Some nice sticky Michelin Pilots will be the best in the wet, fantastic in the dry, and last a long time too. This is a top-of-the-range tyre and will totally transform your bike. You will like.. :blip:

Make sure you have the rear suspension pre-load on minimum, or at least set correctly for your weight.

DB

[boomer]

Make sure you have the rear suspension pre-load on minimum
DB


wtf! Are you sure about this statement..??!!! :wacko:



Clean chain on stand with kerosene, rinse, respray. Done ( listen to what the stranger has to say!!! :wacko: )
Let ya engine warm up on idle, standing, for 2 minutes ( or the temp gauge has moved/registered ) ... then ride as normal.
5 minutes spirited riding will have the tyres warmed up.



alternatively.. use the search function as guess what.. ALL these questions have been answered many times before ....!!

[CookMySock]

wtf! Are you sure about this statement..??!!! :wacko:Well I have three of them - what do you think? If you rode one you would see why - even on the lowest setting it is very firm even two-up. The problem is the rear spring rate is way too high - not easily resolvable either as nothing much is a straight replacement and the spring cannot be exchanged.

DB

[The Stranger]

the problem is the rear spring rate is way too high - not easily resolvable either

eat more pies!!!

[vifferman]

WD40 is great to clean chains. Unfortunately, it's more expensive than kero, and I think (?) that the main cleaning stuff in WD40 is kerosene.
Nup, it's Stoddard solvent.

I clean mine mostly with chain lube: the solvents in the chain wax I use also partially dissolve the old chain spooge. Then every so often (every fourth time) I use kero instead, and my HandyDandyChainCleaning'n'LubingDoofer.

[CookMySock]

eat more pies!!!:crazy: nah man six months ago I was 112KG, now I'm a stealth 91KG. Not going back! :sweatdrop

DB
p.s. heading for 80kg. Gunna have a skinny high-performance ass.

[Subike]

Some nice sticky Michelin Pilots will be the best in the wet, fantastic in the dry, and last a long time too. This is a top-of-the-range tyre and will totally transform your bike. You will like.. :blip:

Make sure you have the rear suspension pre-load on minimum, or at least set correctly for your weight.

DB

hey dude
this is Christchurch commuting he is asking about,
Have you ridden a bike down here in winter?
Your Michelin Pilots may be ok up north where the roads are grit free and dont get too much ice, plus you run on Bitumix, but chip seal, gravel, ice, LARGE puddles, and lots of oily spots are everywhere in CHCH.
Michelin Pilots my be OK where you come from, but I think they may not be the best for the roads down here.
Good old Dunlops, Shenkos or similar will last longer and give better overall performance than your Michelin Pilots IMO.
Were are talking commuting, not fast pace touring or Rat Pack outings.
I have Shenkos on my XS1100, front and rear, 3000k on them and not even half warn. Stick good as on southern roads, never had then give me a but clenching moment yet, I dont ride slow either.
But This is only my opinion, after living and riding the south for 30 years without an incident

[Benjiboi]

Good old Dunlops, Shenkos or similar will last longer and give better overall performance than your Michelin Pilots IMO.
Were are talking commuting, not fast pace touring or Rat Pack outings.
I have Shenkos on my XS1100, front and rear, 3000k on them and not even half warn. Stick good as on southern roads, never had then give me a but clenching moment yet, I dont ride slow either.

Cheers for the advice I'll have to look at getting some soon the weather isn't getting to warm anytime soon:cold:

[manicmedic]

Old fart here using old technology.

1, Use gear oil on chain with a salad oil bottle. Make sure all O-rings are covered.

2, Use an old towel to wipe off excess and remove dirt that has been eased by oil.

3, Grab beer.

Been doing it this way for almost 24 years with no problems. Bikes big, small, gutless and powerful ie from KH100 to GPz750Turbo, CB500 to SP1.

Manic

[ColonelSponz]

Would it be okay to soak the chain in turps which I found in my mum's cupboard?

[Jonno.]

No..
Go to supermarket/repco/supercheap and get some kerosene it's >$10.
Failing that use a chain lube that cleans old lube off aswell.

[xwhatsit]

Kerosene OWNS. Got my chain sparkling yesterday then proceeded to clean the house with it....

Smells nice but not as nice as WD40.

[discotex]

I got fed up with cleaning and lubing my chain and I don't want a Buell so....

Switched to doing it between services which means it gets oiled every 3000km but only every 6000km by yours truly.

I haven't noticed any significant change in wear rate (as judged by amount of adjustment required). Even if it did wear out faster it'd just be an excuse for me to do the -1 +3 sprocket change ;)

Will lube more frequently over winter to keep the water out of the o-rings though.