View Full Version : Flasher relay
nivram
7th July 2008, 21:42
I have a 2007 Hyosung GT250 I need to replace to stock flasher relay so I can install some LED indicator and get the correct flash rate. The stock flasher on the bike is a 3 pin so I thought I could get purchase a standard 3 PIN electronic load sensing flasher realy I got a Narva one P/No.68213BL.
Installed the Narva flasher and blew my main fuse on the bike several times! the stock relay has 3 PINS L B E the Narva one Has L = Lamps or Indicator Switch, P = Pilot(what ever that is?) X = Battery +
The only way I can the Narva flasher to work without blowing a fuse is to leave one of terminals disconnected the P one which runs to the earth on the bike. What I need to know is, is this correct and why does the stock relay require all 3 terminals connected and new only only require 2 of the 3 terminals connected and will I do any damage having connected this way?
Number One
7th July 2008, 23:24
Damn misleading titles! I thought you were organising a running race of the buck naked kind....must be time I popped off to bed :yawn:
I had issues with the flasher I purchased from the US with my "Clear Alternatives" taillight. I stopped in to see a sparky to get some advice, he took a look and came back with a new relay. A 2-pin Tridon HD12 to replace the 3-pin I had. It's been working great for the last 10 months and cost $15. Supercheap sell them, but they're over $20. I hope that's some help!:done:
nivram
8th July 2008, 07:45
Thanks just hooking up the two pins seems to have done the trick, cheers
aaronnaz
1st September 2014, 14:51
Thanks just hooking up the two pins seems to have done the trick, cheers
Hey nivram what 2 pins are you talking about? I'm in the exact same situation as you. Any help would be great cheers
mossy1200
1st September 2014, 17:32
Hey nivram what 2 pins are you talking about? I'm in the exact same situation as you. Any help would be great cheers
Why didn't you use the stock flasher and add a resistor to the leds?
http://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/motorbikes/parts-for-sale/exhaust/auction-773699031.htm
nodrog
1st September 2014, 17:37
Why didn't you use the stock flasher and add a resistor to the leds?
he probably wants to do it properly.
mossy1200
1st September 2014, 17:40
he probably wants to do it properly.
I would have though just working on a Hyosung would be classed properly though.
buggerit
1st September 2014, 17:47
P is pilot lamp so you can plug it into a bulb/LED that is earthed and it will flash when either inicators are on.
Should be fine as you are , but I would insulate that P terminal so you dont risk a short and blown fuse.
Dave-
1st September 2014, 23:34
Why didn't you use the stock flasher and add a resistor to the leds?
http://www.trademe.co.nz/motors/motorbikes/parts-for-sale/exhaust/auction-773699031.htm
$32 for resistors vs $15 for a relay.
Piss around with crimps and heat shrink vs plug in.
Don't be daft.
aaronnaz
2nd September 2014, 10:49
Hey guys
well my situation is a little different from nivrams
the bike CBR400RR-N
I got the bike with an aftermarket electronic flasher relay (3 pin 12v , 210w) X-P-L type pins
I know the original is a 3 pin 12.8v , 18w max for 4bulbs
I'm still on bulbs not LED
Ok so the problem is my bike has 3 wires leading to the relay, only 2 are connected at the moment. If I connect the ground to the relay the fuse blows. My handle brake doesn't trigger the brake light to come on. And turning on the signal while riding/stationary takes a long time for the lights to start blinking but the lights flash at the right speed.
How do i make this setup work.. or is it a waste of time?
Also my mate did give me his old flasher relay (2 pin 12.8v , 21w max for 4 bulbs)
a little higher then the original which makes the lights blink faster. But it's a 2 pin meaning no ground.
how do I make this setup work.. or is this a waste of time?
lastly should I just spend $65 to get an orginal flasher relay from Japan to solve all my problems lol
cheers
aaronnaz
10th September 2014, 19:00
hey would you guys know why the flashers would take time to turn on? and start flashing.
nodrog
10th September 2014, 19:40
hey would you guys know why the flashers would take time to turn on? and start flashing.
Change the fluid inside the relay to something thinner like a 10w/30
Akzle
10th September 2014, 19:55
Hey guys
well my situation is a little different from nivrams
the bike CBR400RR-N
I got the bike with an aftermarket electronic flasher relay (3 pin 12v , 210w) X-P-L type pins
I know the original is a 3 pin 12.8v , 18w max for 4bulbs
I'm still on bulbs not LED
Ok so the problem is my bike has 3 wires leading to the relay, only 2 are connected at the moment. If I connect the ground to the relay the fuse blows. My handle brake doesn't trigger the brake light to come on. And turning on the signal while riding/stationary takes a long time for the lights to start blinking but the lights flash at the right speed.
How do i make this setup work.. or is it a waste of time?
Also my mate did give me his old flasher relay (2 pin 12.8v , 21w max for 4 bulbs)
a little higher then the original which makes the lights blink faster. But it's a 2 pin meaning no ground.
how do I make this setup work.. or is this a waste of time?
lastly should I just spend $65 to get an orginal flasher relay from Japan to solve all my problems lol
cheers
hey would you guys know why the flashers would take time to turn on? and start flashing.
ask again in 8 days time.
but srsly. the 2 pin should be fine as the indicators ground out through the other side of the bike... just... make sure your block actually does that shit.
Laava
10th September 2014, 20:58
You may have too much load for the relay. It is designed for a lighter load than incandescent bulbs. You could just buy a cheapo two pin relay for supercheese and swap it in.
aaronnaz
10th September 2014, 21:06
You may have too much load for the relay. It is designed for a lighter load than incandescent bulbs. You could just buy a cheapo two pin relay for supercheese and swap it in.
Ive got a second hand original relay from a recked bike.. and tried that in.. the fuse blows now.. ive wired it up to the wiring diagram for the bike so everything should be good.. so the correct relay for the bulbs is now in..
any idea of the problem now?
Cheers
aaronnaz
10th September 2014, 21:14
ive also traced the wires to/from the relay - turn signal switch - handle bar brake switch - fuses
nothing looks wrong, nothing not plugged in, no burn marks or damaged bits..
Laava
11th September 2014, 22:18
If it is blowing a fuse then there is probably a short in the circuit. You will have to test every wire in the circuit with a multimeter until you find the fault. You could try taking all the bulbs out first and then seeing if the fuse still blows. If not, put bulbs in one by one until the fuse blows.
A multimeter will be your friend.
buggerit
12th September 2014, 10:55
ive also traced the wires to/from the relay - turn signal switch - handle bar brake switch - fuses
nothing looks wrong, nothing not plugged in, no burn marks or damaged bits..
My guess is that the wire going to the handlebar brake switch is a earth and the relay is not correct for that wiring configeration,
maybe aftermarket fitted to the wrecked bike.
That terminal probably is for a pilot light ,so you are creating a direct short when you flick the flasher on.
Test the terminal for 12v with the wire unplugged.
Test for continuity between wire that goes to brake switch and chassis of bike.
aaronnaz
12th September 2014, 13:01
My guess is that the wire going to the handlebar brake switch is a earth and the relay is not correct for that wiring configeration,
maybe aftermarket fitted to the wrecked bike.
That terminal probably is for a pilot light ,so you are creating a direct short when you flick the flasher on.
Test the terminal for 12v with the wire unplugged.
Test for continuity between wire that goes to brake switch and chassis of bike.
sorry if i was unclear. the relay ive got from the wrecked bike is the original for the bike. same model number that came from the factory. the bike is pretty standard all round so i think its safe to say that the configuration is how its supposed to be?
i think its also safe to say that the relay works? because its blowing a fuse.. if it didnt work the lights would just not come on. do you guys agree or should i test the relay (how do i test a 3pin relay)
buggerit
12th September 2014, 13:55
Just looked at wiring diag for you bike, are u sure you have the wires on the correct terminals?
aaronnaz
12th September 2014, 14:44
Just looked at wiring diag for you bike, are u sure you have the wires on the correct terminals?
yeah i think so.. the bikes a 400RR-N. ground in the center and i tried other 2 wires in each of the other 2 pins.. one way nothing happened expect slowly drain my battery and the other the fuse blows. so im guessn the fuse blowing is the correct way.
aaronnaz
12th September 2014, 14:50
If it is blowing a fuse then there is probably a short in the circuit. You will have to test every wire in the circuit with a multimeter until you find the fault. You could try taking all the bulbs out first and then seeing if the fuse still blows. If not, put bulbs in one by one until the fuse blows.
A multimeter will be your friend.
this is my next mission. i went to botany hondas and kinda pitched the problem to them they came up with are your headlights the correct wattage, saying that the original bulbs count towards blowing a fuse or not. i havnt checked them but i will, to cross that out.. will do the indicator check like you suggested as well.
now when it comes to checking all the wires.. what do you mean by circuit? how do i go about this process? ( i do have a multimeter)
buggerit
12th September 2014, 16:28
yeah i think so.. the bikes a 400RR-N. ground in the center and i tried other 2 wires in each of the other 2 pins.. one way nothing happened expect slowly drain my battery and the other the fuse blows. so im guessn the fuse blowing is the correct way.
What are the marks on the terminals?
If numbers 31=earth
49a= to flashers
49= supply voltage
aaronnaz
12th September 2014, 17:06
What are the marks on the terminals?
If numbers 31=earth
49a= to flashers
49= supply voltage
if by terminal you mean on the flasher relay then there are NO marks, letters or numbers at all on it.
aaronnaz
12th September 2014, 18:06
so the headlights are UK spec. 60/55W. (JAP spec is 60/35W) which is suspect cause all the other bulbs are JAP spec including the brake lights and the blinkers..
and the headlight bulbs are made in germany..
could this actually be the problem??
i know 60/55W means 55w on low beam and 60w on high beam...
could explain why the blinkers took long to start up with the electronic flasher relay
buggerit
12th September 2014, 18:47
if you hook the power feed directly to the indicator wire I think you will find the indicators will operate(but not flash)which will prove
there is no short in those 2 curciuts.
If everything worked before but slowly with the other flasher unit, it points to either the new unit or how you have wired it.
I think the bike shop is sending you on a wild goose chase.
aaronnaz
12th September 2014, 20:05
if you hook the power feed directly to the indicator wire I think you will find the indicators will operate(but not flash)which will prove
there is no short in those 2 curciuts.
If everything worked before but slowly with the other flasher unit, it points to either the new unit or how you have wired it.
I think the bike shop is sending you on a wild goose chase.
i tried that power feed to indicators.. it works but still takes time. i push the switch to either side.. takes about 10 secs then lights up
i thought mayb it could be the battery.. so i hooked up my battery to another (still good) battery i had in my garage and same story.
a bit of background: when i got the bike the radiator fan was not working.. i found out a fuse had blown.. replaced the fuse and its working now..
im thinking why did the fan fuse blow..mayb there was a short.. mayb there is still something pulling more current to the fan? il try unplug the fan and try this (power feed to indicator) step again.. see if anything changes.
running out of ideas
breakaway
13th September 2014, 09:54
Perhaps the fan became obstructed during normal operation which caused a current spike resulting in a blown fuse. Doubt the fan would be related to indicators.
aaronnaz
13th September 2014, 10:16
Perhaps the fan became obstructed during normal operation which caused a current spike resulting in a blown fuse. Doubt the fan would be related to indicators.
actually yeah there was a stone that had gotten stuck between the blade and its case that made it stop.
all these wires are linked fan-horn-dash lights-indicators etc..so i thought it might be contributing.
thanks for the feedback guys really appreciate it
aaronnaz
14th September 2014, 16:36
SO! i got it to work!
It turns out the wiring diagram that the Haynes manual and all over the net showed the connection to the flasher relay wrong!
i was playing with my mates cbr250 (mc22) and i found out that he uses a Mitsuba fr-3314 flasher relay as well, but his wiring to the relay was different.
checked his wiring diagram which was in black and white, traced the wires and found out that it was the same colour for the same wire on his and mine.
300858
thats a pic of his wiring.. i did the same and bam! works lol
only thing is it still takes some time before the lights start flashing (has gotten better though!!)
it looks like the left pair of lights starts blinking slower then the right side.
thats still a problem im trying to solve!!
on the left side of the bike, i tried testing the flasher response without the front and with the rear bulb, and then vice versa. but didnt see any noticeable difference.
anything else i can try to narrow down where the problem would be?
Cheers guys! almost there!
aaronnaz
15th September 2014, 13:24
Hey guys ive managed to fix the delay problem!
so i played with the multimeter this weekend. knowing that the relay works it was only down to the wiring through out the bike.
i figured out that the live wire at the relay (black/brown coming from the battery to fuses to relay) has constant current running through it once the key in ON so that wasnt the problem.
the ground was properly grounded (green wire). that wasnt the problem.
meaning the grey wire to the switch was the cause.
as the grey wire doesnt splice into anything else, only goes between the switch and the relay, i figured it was the switch. opened up the switch cluster on the left handle bar right down to the mechanics of the triggering system. found out there was lots of bad grease and gunk in the way of the contacts between the grey wire and the left and right signal wires. cleaned all that up, cleaned the contacts, put new grease and.... works like new!!!
only thing thats bothering me is why the hell is the wiring diagram telling me a different story!!
i checked other wires in my loom (colour and the number of wires in a bunch) i had the correct RR-N model loom. and pictures in the haynes manual told me that the relay was correct for my model.
anyway im happy now bikes all good!!
time to get a WOF!!
Cheers for all your help!
Laava
15th September 2014, 17:48
Where do I send my invoice?
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