How still should the rear wheel be to turn when off of the ground?

[racefactory]

Hi there,

Compared to my 250- my VFR400 NC30 is harder to wheel across the ground...

I took the wheel off to get the tyre changed today....

first time ive done this... but the rear wheel doesnt spin like a bicycle or anything... ie... if you flick it it wont even spin for a second... it only moves by pushing it.. and requires quite a push to get it to move...

I have no idea if that is normal for a bike... but can someone give me some indication if i need to check or lubricate something?? maybe how many seconds should it spin by with one handed push? Cheers...

[pete376403]

rear brake could be dragging a little, chain can take a bit to turn if its dry. An o-ring chain is a lot harder to spin than non o-ring.
There will be some drag from the gearbox but shouldn't be too much

[gammaguy]

i bet the rear brake caliper has seized.common issue with hondas.the sliding pins in the caliper are probably dry.you need to strip and lube with silicone grease.:yes:

[racefactory]

thanks.

So how long should the rear wheel spin for?

Yeah something tells me its rear brake a.

I hope the caliper business isnt too hard... ill try see how thsi thing works.

Shall i chuck some grease inside the tube where the bearing is?

[racefactory]

ok looks like were on the right track.

confirmed rear brake problem. I started the bike without the wheel on and found that the rear brake disk gets hot.

i removed the caliper- i found that the sliders that the brake pads slide on are rusted and have dried grease or something on them... the pads were really hard to move on the sliders- guess they might be sticking to the disk and not floating freely away from it upon release of the brake pedal. I guess ill take these out and wd40 them to get the rust off and re grease??

The pads have like... chips in them...shallow chips indented in them, circle shaped chips about 5mm in diameter..

Im not sure what to look for next... the ends of the pistons look gummed up so ill try and remove the pistons to clean those.

what else is there that i need to clean and check?

I hate the idea of the wheel dragging and robbing me of power! I want a wheel that spins at the touch of the hand!

Oh and one more thing... the final drive/ wheel/chain still spins when in first gear with clutch in? that ok?

Cheers all...

[MSTRS]

The 'chips' in the pad faces are possibly wear indicators. The wheel should not turn in gear with clutch in...means that clutch is not disengaging fully. Adjust it.
Be bloody careful with what you use to clean those pins and how you grease them. If any of that stuff gets onto the pads, you might as well throw them away. Be careful also with the piston(s) in the caliper itself. if you remove it, you will need to be sure you can reassemble properly, and you will need to bleed the system.

[racefactory]

hey man... i think i just got myself in a little trouble.

i swung the pads out of the way of the pistons and pumped the brake pedal to get the pistons out. Only one piston came out... the other one is still in the cylinder. I can't seem to move the other piston with my hands... and when the piston came out.. some brake fluid also spilt out... after that there is no pressure to left to push the other piston out.

I havent even really ridden the bike yet.. so badly want to get it going... kind of my first bike.

I am also not sure on something. Is this one slider where the brake pads slide on the culprit of this trouble? Because I have noticed the pad retainer/holder thing which has 2 of its own sliders that go into the main caliper- are these the one that were metioned by gamma guy? These ones seem to move ok... they have grease on them, but one of the rubber seals is broken.

More likely the pad slider?

cheers all.

[Robert Taylor]

hey man... i think i just got myself in a little trouble.

i swung the pads out of the way of the pistons and pumped the brake pedal to get the pistons out. Only one piston came out... the other one is still in the cylinder. I can't seem to move the other piston with my hands... and when the piston came out.. some brake fluid also spilt out... after that there is no pressure to left to push the other piston out.

I havent even really ridden the bike yet.. so badly want to get it going... kind of my first bike.

I am also not sure on something. Is this one slider where the brake pads slide on the culprit of this trouble? Because I have noticed the pad retainer/holder thing which has 2 of its own sliders that go into the main caliper- are these the one that were metioned by gamma guy? These ones seem to move ok... they have grease on them, but one of the rubber seals is broken.

More likely the pad slider?

cheers all.

Over the course of time corrosion and gummy deposits form in the machined recesses that house the piston hydraulic and dust seals. This has the effect of squeezing the seals harder onto the pistons. You then dont get the desired effect of seal distortion being the initial means of the pistons retracting after the brakes are released. Given the age of the bike its a very good bet that this will be one of the main problems. You should be replacing those seals and the hoses.
If you are even slightly unsure of what you are doing get a qualified proffessional to do the job, it is yours and other peoples safety at stake.

[racefactory]

I would like to, but the bike is not registered, has no wof, has no plate. Not an option to drive it on the road.

Does anyone have a rear caliper for a NC30? Please?

Cheers.

[xwhatsit]

Does anyone have a rear caliper for a NC30? Please?
Even if somebody does, it's probably not in particularly great condition either (especially if it's been sitting around for a while). Rebuilding it with new seals would probably be a good idea anyway.

Brake callipers are dead easy, if a complete pain in the arse (drums FTW). Even I can do them, and I'm a liability even with a screwdriver.

[racefactory]

Even if somebody does, it's probably not in particularly great condition either (especially if it's been sitting around for a while). Rebuilding it with new seals would probably be a good idea anyway.

Brake callipers are dead easy, if a complete pain in the arse (drums FTW). Even I can do them, and I'm a liability even with a screwdriver.

Do you know where i can get the seals? I have a feeling ordering genuine honda would be hell expensive... also this caliper didnt have any pad springs in it- what does that mean?

anyway i think ive lubed it up pretty good now... until i get new seals.. how do i put the piston back in the cylinder? And how do i get the one out thats still in there?

After that what do i need to do? fill the system and bleed it?

thanks a lot all

[Winston001]

Can't help but just like to encourage you. Its always fun and frustrating finding your way around problems like this.

Why don't you look around her and on the net for a workshop manual or something regarding your rear brakes. You'll find an exploded diagram somewhere and probably instructions.

[racefactory]

hey man... thanks a lot.

actually i do have a haynes... its just it does not say how to deal with the situation ive got and the questions im asking. that is actually how ive got this far...

[theblacksmith]

Get in touch with the guys at Econohonda (Morrinsville area) Their number is 07 884 8810. They should be able to sort you out some way or other.Hope you get it fixed.Cheers.

[Robert Taylor]

Do you know where i can get the seals? I have a feeling ordering genuine honda would be hell expensive... also this caliper didnt have any pad springs in it- what does that mean?

anyway i think ive lubed it up pretty good now... until i get new seals.. how do i put the piston back in the cylinder? And how do i get the one out thats still in there?

After that what do i need to do? fill the system and bleed it?

thanks a lot all

Well maybe its a blanket assumption that genuine is expensive, why not price them anyway....thats not going to cost you anything.

[racefactory]

Alright thanks all ill take this to the brake section now.

[Jerry74]

Use chain wax, it sets and doesn't fling off all over your chain guards.

Ideal for road bikes