Brake trouble

[racefactory]

Hi all,

First time with all this.

VFR400 NC30- Found my rear wheel wasnt spinning too well and ive found out the rear brake is dragging.

I took the caliper off to inpect.

1. The small pole that the pads slide on was all rusted and gummed up... pads were hard to budge along this slider... i guess that is part of the problem. So should i clean this slider and just regrease it?

2. While i had it off i decided to inspect the piston and rest of caliper. Protruding part of the pistons are gummed up I saw. So i pumped the rear brake pedal to get the pistons out. Only one came out- the other is still in there and hard to move. How do i get this remaining piston out with no hydraulic pressure left?

3. Once i have cleaned the pistons, should i grease up the cylinders? What do i do that with?

4. How do i put them back in? Just force them with hands?

5. This caliper didnt seem to have any pad springs like it is supposed to- what does that mean?

6. Should the pistons retract back after pressing the brake pedal/be easy to push back or does the force of the brake disk spinning just push the pads/pistons away?

7. Once i get it back together- do i just put it back on and fill up the reservoir with brake fluid, and then bleed the system?

8.Anything else that could be contributing to the problem? Shall i throw some grease in the axle and bearing before putting wheel on?

Thanks in advance.

[MSTRS]

Why are you asking this again (even if it is in another thread)? RT has given you good advice. Don't piss about with something so important, when you obviously aren't sure what you are doing. Take it to someone who does.

[racefactory]

hi there.. I am simply moving it to the right forum. Maybe more brake people can help. It is not to do with chain/wheel.

I'm doing it myself. You have to learn somehow. I have taken the interest to fix something that another person could have quite easily left be until their wheel seized or something. If i want to fix it- let me.

As a student i don't have too much $ to splash about and i have already decided to pay someone to do my forks for me. Please understand.

Cheers.

[hayd3n]

brakes are one thing you dont fuck round with!!!! if you dont know what your doin get some one who does who can help you i first had a m8 who owns a 4wd help me .
disk brakes are all very similar
some times you thinks its all bleed and it isint

[MSTRS]

Oh I understand all right. Lack of funds is a great motivator in doing things for yourself. What I am saying, and RT has said, is don't 'repair' stuff that is critical when you have little or no understanding of what you are doing. If you 'get it working' but have somehow made a mistake or missed something that shows up at an awkward moment, what then?

[xwhatsit]

Hey man,

When I did mine I asked questions on here, used my manual, and also found this site to be very helpful: http://www.dansmc.com/hydraulics.htm

I only had one piston, but on the newer type callipers with twin pistons it talks about using a C-clamp as you go -- let one pop out a bit, then put the C-clamp on it and keep pumping until the other one comes out a bit, then shift the C-clamp again. Of course, you've already popped out one piston. I may be overlooking the obvious here, but can't you put the other piston back in, let it seal, put a C-clamp on it, pump it up with brake fluid until the other piston pops out too?

O-rings can be suprisingly expensive for bikes. Somebody on here (pretty sure it was Imdying) gave me the tip of using car brake seals with the same diameter. Tuppence in comparison. I ended up getting a proper seal, as it was cheap (old, common calliper to a lot of Honda models), but if it is a lot, perhaps something to investigate.

[racefactory]

Yes you are both quite right...

But it is so tempting to do when you have some people saying... hey brake calipers are dead easy!

[fatzx10r]

Oh I understand all right. Lack of funds is a great motivator in doing things for yourself. What I am saying, and RT has said, is don't 'repair' stuff that is critical when you have little or no understanding of what you are doing. If you 'get it working' but have somehow made a mistake or missed something that shows up at an awkward moment, what then?

what he said, get it wrong and you could be :buggerd:

[awayatc]

Clean all the parts properly....
Piston should get back in without to much trouble.....
Block it (bit of wood or so)and apply pressure on brake, the other piston should pop out......
Clean,clean.clean...(brakecleaner or very fine metal scouring pads with bit of brakefluid....)

Everything should reassemble, and best to replace all brake fluid with the correct grade new fluid
...which needs bleeding indeed
No grease.....
Pistons will retract to their correct position automaticly...

Not sure what you mean with pad springs missing.....but your dealer will have detailed drawings on computer with all the parts required.....rubber boots etc.

Good luck, and good on ya for fixing it

[hayd3n]

Yes you are both quite right...

But it is so tempting to do when you have some people saying... hey brake calipers are dead easy!

yeah they are easy once you get use to it just like anything really

[racefactory]

Hey man,

When I did mine I asked questions on here, used my manual, and also found this site to be very helpful: http://www.dansmc.com/hydraulics.htm

I only had one piston, but on the newer type callipers with twin pistons it talks about using a C-clamp as you go -- let one pop out a bit, then put the C-clamp on it and keep pumping until the other one comes out a bit, then shift the C-clamp again. Of course, you've already popped out one piston. I may be overlooking the obvious here, but can't you put the other piston back in, let it seal, put a C-clamp on it, pump it up with brake fluid until the other piston pops out too?

O-rings can be suprisingly expensive for bikes. Somebody on here (pretty sure it was Imdying) gave me the tip of using car brake seals with the same diameter. Tuppence in comparison. I ended up getting a proper seal, as it was cheap (old, common calliper to a lot of Honda models), but if it is a lot, perhaps something to investigate.


thanks so much- that link has pretty much everything! awayatc- thanks also.

I will try this and see if i get anywhere... if not it will have to go to the shop.

One thing i do need an answer to though is what if my caliper has no pad springs??

[racefactory]

Also, it's hard to tell if it's the caliper or not... but my right front disk has a bit of fluid on it. No fluid is coming from the hose as far as i can see. Now i'm not sure if it is because my right fork seal is leaking oil too, and might be dripping down to the brakes... it's damn hard to see though.

Just incase... and until i get round to inspecting the front brakes. what's usually the culprit for leaking caliper? Is it a blown piston seal?

[awayatc]

You mean like a thin metal backing plate on the pads....?
Everything is available ex dealer.....especialy since same brakes are used on variety of bikes.
After market parts available for most makes as well....
Bike wreckers......

[MSTRS]

That's easy...a leaking fork seal will allow oil to get all over the place. The fluid is greasy to the touch. And a leaking brake system will get fluid all over the place. The fluid is greasy to the touch.
Spot the difference?
Get someone who knows what they are doing/looking at to fix it.

[racefactory]

yes thats what i mean. The thin metal plates.

come on mstrs- just go ride your gsxr mate, don't worry about it i'll get it fixed one way or another. one thing is for sure though... im trying first.

Does anyone by chance know what other bikes share these same rear Nissin brakes on a Honda VFR400 NC30?

[fatzx10r]

Also, it's hard to tell if it's the caliper or not... but my right front disk has a bit of fluid on it. No fluid is coming from the hose as far as i can see. Now i'm not sure if it is because my right fork seal is leaking oil too, and might be dripping down to the brakes... it's damn hard to see though.

Just incase... and until i get round to inspecting the front brakes. what's usually the culprit for leaking caliper? Is it a blown piston seal?

sound's like it's your fork seal that's leaking onto your disc. get that sorted asap

[racefactory]

yeah i am getting it sorted mate.

Please everyone don't think im riding this bike around like this... i'm not. its got no rego and its not going anywhere.

[awayatc]

Metal backing plate not critical.....you may be pleasantly surprised by dealers price....

Oil leak front.....fork seal first,
then brake itself can do with good clean and inspection.....
Amazing what you can see and find by taking it apart.
you are supposed to change brakefluid every 2 years or so anyway.....after that keep eye on level.

Your bike, your life....
Risked life and limbs plenty of times, still do....
Seen so many "experts" fuck up that I mainly rely on myself....Nothing wrong with that

[Subike]

yeah i am getting it sorted mate.

Please everyone don't think im riding this bike around like this... i'm not. its got no rego and its not going anywhere.

Hey bud, good on ya.
you obviousley are taking your time about this, doing research, looking at the options with the final thing being, ""If I cant do it, I'll get a pro to"" before riding the bike and having an incident.
There are web sites out there that will tell you how,
There are sites that will show you expanded pic of what you are doing,
There are sites that will list and sell the parts you need, they also have search tools that tell you what other bikes run the same parts.
I'm glad to see you asking before you start, thats good.

And the springs are the anti squeel springs I take it. They sit in behind or above the pads to stop them make that orrid screech noise when riding.

The oil on you front disc will be from your leaking fork seal. If it was from your brake caliper and you have been using the bike for a while before doing this repair, you would have run out of brake pressure due to all the fluid leaking out. Thats my call on that one.

When you clean all your brake parts, use a good brake clean product, I have seen many a seal melted from people cleaning their brake parts in petrol. Its a solvent to a lot of rubber. Check your hoses as well when doing this, an item often overlooked when brakes get spongy or weak. They should be replace every 20 - 30k imo or every 4th pad change. Brakes on a road bike are too important to take short cuts with.


Above all, enjoy yourself learning about you ride, and if You gat a bit tichy while doing it. STOP have a BEER and go watch TV for an hour. You break less things that way

[Jerry74]

Use heaps of CRC Brakeleen, it evaporates, takes all the muck off with a wipe.

Good stuff

[racefactory]

excellent. got everything i need now.

yeah i'd like to think i'm on the right track, looking at my options but trying to be sensible about it. I'm a 19 year old student and got this VFR for 2700- needed new fork seals $25 (bought fork oil and seals and getting a shop to fit it for $60), rear tyre $75 (bought a good second hand tyre) and it also needs the rear brake switch to activate plus this brake problem so hopefully i can get her going for $3000. the engine runs nuts and seems in great condition, no valve noises, no flat spots, no smoke, excellent power, was not burning oil by the looks of it. i think it'd turn out a good deal if i can pull it off.

going to rip into it now. i'll keep this thread up to date.

thanks for all pointers.

[lostinflyz]

just had a reminder that my front calipers leaked for ages after i dismantled them and cleaned and did the front seals. If its from the caliper it pools at the bottom of the caliper. The wee star key nut things need to be Farking tight to get them to seal up. But i would still back it being your fork seals leaving shit on your discs.

[racefactory]

oh ok thanks dude.

Ok the pistons are almost seized I think.. i just can not get the piston back into the cylinder with my hands and it should only require thumb strength. I guess the seals are gone... they don't look too good, top one is a bit scuffed up. need new seals.

[racefactory]

god damn it- this is not looking good.

i just managed to insert the piston again... wedged a spanner in there so it wouldnt come out, filled the reservoir with fluid, and the level just sits there... its not going down into the system... i dont get that?

I try pumping the pedal but there is no pressure... the level doesnt go down. Yes i have the lid on...

ahh, would cycle spot honda on barrys point road be a good place to get this done? anyone know how much im looking at?

[MSTRS]

god damn it- this is not looking good.

i just managed to insert the piston again... wedged a spanner in there so it wouldnt come out, filled the reservoir with fluid, and the level just sits there... its not going down into the system... i dont get that?

I try pumping the pedal but there is no pressure... the level doesnt go down. Yes i have the lid on...

ahh, would cycle spot honda on barrys point road be a good place to get this done? anyone know how much im looking at?

There won't be...cause the system is full of air, and air compresses very easily. This is what bleeding is for - to get rid of the air. It's a long job when you've had it all apart.
Make sure all connections are tight. Fill the reservoir, leaving the top off. Open the bleed nipple on the caliper. Pull in the brake lever and hold. Close the nipple. Release the brake. Repeat ad nauseum...ensuring that you keep the reservoir full. Wipe up any spills on your paintwork immediately.
In your case, since the caliper is still in an unfit state, it would be better to use compressed air to pop the pistons out. Must be done VERY carefully.
Take the caliper to a shop (Honda would be good). Get them to remove the pistons and do the refurbishment/reassembly work. You refit to your bike and follow the above bleed instructions.

[Subike]

A little helpfull thing when bleeding your brakes.
Get a small glass /plastic bottle (300cc)
find a length of plastic hose that fits snugly over the top of your bleed nipple.
Have a few cc's of fluid in the bottom of the bottle, immerse the hose in that fluid so it cannot suck air. Fill your master cylinder with fluid and open the nipple. You will only have to tighten the bleed nipple at the end of this procedure.
Slowly pump the master cylinder, with the cap off.
This will pump the air out of the system , down the hose, into the bottle, and release it. It will stop air returning up the hose line when you release the lever, because it is immersed in the fluid.
Continue to do this untill you no longer see air bubbles comming out of the hose. Tighten the bleed nipple THEN remove the hose.
Watch the master cylinder resivour while doing this and dont let it get under half.
This is the easy way to bleed your brake by yourself without spillage. And it works!

[racefactory]

you guys have been most helpful. Yes i think i should just take the caliper to to a shop and get them to fit the seals re assemble it. At least i tried...

It cant be that much can it?

If anyone can reccommend me a shop in particular, that'd be great. Right now i can only think of honda in takapuna.

[racefactory]

took it to honda shop... it's fucked. not only would it need seals but the pistons are fucked themselves.

Got another caliper on the way now :).

To close things off i'll just say that all in all i'm pleased i even looked into this... I'm sure it could have easilly been overlooked and then i possibly could have had a proper seizure while riding. Just thinking about it, i could have braked, brakes wouldnt release/lock rear wheel and someone could have taken me out from behind... game over.

[nico]

hey fella yah man best thing i did was get a service manual they are amazing i ant a mechanic but do have some knowlage on machanes and basic princales but read the manual a few times look at the past read again give it a go then go to a shop if needed, im sorta in the same boat $$chanalged so all my maientance is done bu myself unless i have to but in saying that some things cant be screwed with and a pro should do good luck with the rest of the bike those vfr400 are mint i regret selling my lil one :2thumbsup

[nico]

A little helpfull thing when bleeding your brakes.
Get a small glass /plastic bottle (300cc)
find a length of plastic hose that fits snugly over the top of your bleed nipple.
Have a few cc's of fluid in the bottom of the bottle, immerse the hose in that fluid so it cannot suck air. Fill your master cylinder with fluid and open the nipple. You will only have to tighten the bleed nipple at the end of this procedure.
Slowly pump the master cylinder, with the cap off.
This will pump the air out of the system , down the hose, into the bottle, and release it. It will stop air returning up the hose line when you release the lever, because it is immersed in the fluid.
Continue to do this untill you no longer see air bubbles comming out of the hose. Tighten the bleed nipple THEN remove the hose.
Watch the master cylinder resivour while doing this and dont let it get under half.
This is the easy way to bleed your brake by yourself without spillage. And it works!

i agree this is how the old man told me to do it and after going to repco seeing the kits they sell for 30 odd bucks it's exactly the same a $2 clear hose from mita 10 sumruged in a brace fluid bottle and do as above works absulty mint every time no need for expesve kits :woohoo::woohoo:

[MSTRS]

took it to honda shop... it's fucked. not only would it need seals but the pistons are fucked themselves.

Got another caliper on the way now :).

To close things off i'll just say that all in all i'm pleased i even looked into this... I'm sure it could have easilly been overlooked and then i possibly could have had a proper seizure while riding. Just thinking about it, i could have braked, brakes wouldnt release/lock rear wheel and someone could have taken me out from behind... game over.

Precisely why I counselled you against trying to do it yourself, early in this thread. Some things are too important to leave to chance etc.

[racefactory]

Thanks all, I will definately refer back to this thread when it comes to bleeding the system with the new caliper.

[FJRider]

Better still ask first... help may not be far away.

[Max Preload]

took it to honda shop... it's fucked. not only would it need seals but the pistons are fucked themselves.

In what way are the pistons 'fucked'? Badly scored? Corroded? Damaged or corroded seal grooves? It's rare for pistons to be fucked without inept mechanic intervention.


Use heaps of CRC Brakeleen, it evaporates, takes all the muck off with a wipe.

And fucks the rubber seals nicely too. :niceone: (not getting at you, just trying to be informative)

If you read the can carefully: "Protect rubber brake components and painted surfaces from overspray" or something to that effect, as I recall. The best way to clean calipers is hot soapy water and a toothbrush. Tedious, but effective and safe.

[Jerry74]

I was talking about the disc and pads.

Easier to remove it all from the main body of it

[FROSTY]

shit this is such painful reading.
Call me--bring ya bike here--lets get it sorted.
-I live at work -Literally and Im in Henderson

[racefactory]

really frosty? you think you can fix the caliper? Well i'm very keen- thanks.

The pistons are fucked in which way? All of what you said - corroded, scored, fucked seals- the works. also because the front of them are ever so slightly deformed apparently. They both do not move by hand. Can't even get it a quarter in with hand force. Jammed solid.

[motorbyclist]

ok, thread is too long so i didn't read, but i got the impression no-one aswered the question in a helpful manner


now i do realise you've bought a new one, but now i know why you've done that it's kinda painful. this is literally a handful of $6 seals and some some soapy water (or brakecleen) to fix


and don't be afraid to ask for a hand if you don't know what you're doing. many guys will come round to give you a hand, or just drop by frosty's, OR come to the SMC fix it days that i told you about:)


Hi all,

First time with all this.

VFR400 NC30- Found my rear wheel wasnt spinning too well and ive found out the rear brake is dragging.

I took the caliper off to inpect.

1. The small pole that the pads slide on was all rusted and gummed up... pads were hard to budge along this slider... i guess that is part of the problem. So should i clean this slider and just regrease it?


do not grease the brakes! clean them and leave them. crc, oil etc etc will stop them functioning and root the seals.

you may put an anticorrosive grease thing (i forget what it's called, but i think it's silicone based?) on the threads to stop it all rusting together



2. While i had it off i decided to inspect the piston and rest of caliper. Protruding part of the pistons are gummed up I saw. So i pumped the rear brake pedal to get the pistons out. Only one came out- the other is still in there and hard to move. How do i get this remaining piston out with no hydraulic pressure left?


stop the free cylinder moving and pump up some pressure. i've had a similar probelm with one of my fronts - had to hold 3 pots back to free the one.

you need to remove all the cylinders and seals, clean whole unit and replace seals. donw



3. Once i have cleaned the pistons, should i grease up the cylinders? What do i do that with?


do NOT grease your brakes!



4. How do i put them back in? Just force them with hands?


force? "reinstall";)

yes with hands



5. This caliper didnt seem to have any pad springs like it is supposed to- what does that mean?


pad springs? wtf?

maybe you'll have a scratch pad to make a squeal when pads run low... usually it's been lost though



6. Should the pistons retract back after pressing the brake pedal/be easy to push back or does the force of the brake disk spinning just push the pads/pistons away?


the pressure drops and the pads just lightly brush the disc



7. Once i get it back together- do i just put it back on and fill up the reservoir with brake fluid, and then bleed the system?


yep



8.Anything else that could be contributing to the problem? Shall i throw some grease in the axle and bearing before putting wheel on?

Thanks in advance.

should fix it nicely.

assuming it is the correct grease, yes, bearing like grease and those ones are expensive.

[racefactory]

hey man... that would be very helpful but the thing is- i took it to a shop, they said it was totally fucked... piston seized well and truly... piston ends fucked amd corroded, sides corroded. I couldnt even generate any pressure to pump it out of the seizure. I got the impression i should just buy a new caliper since i wouldnt have known how to clean it properly, treat the corrosion etc. Thanks anyway.

After fitting my new brake and adjusting that bloody brake light switch it should be all ready to register and warrant for the road.

[motorbyclist]

sweet as then

how much did the new brake cost?

[racefactory]

175 a. Has to be done i guess.

[geoffm]

really frosty? you think you can fix the caliper? Well i'm very keen- thanks.

The pistons are fucked in which way? All of what you said - corroded, scored, fucked seals- the works. also because the front of them are ever so slightly deformed apparently. They both do not move by hand. Can't even get it a quarter in with hand force. Jammed solid.

The pistons get rust under the chrome plating and it is all over for them. There are aftermarket alternatives.
Alternaively, do you know of anyone with a lathe (like me for instance...). I made new brake pistons for my RD350LC from stainless steel. Made around 3 pairs from a $20 bar of 316. Might still have some left if you can't get replacements.
Geoff

[motorbyclist]

that's a bloody good idea!

what sort of accuracy/tolerance is on those things?

[xwhatsit]

what sort of accuracy/tolerance is on those things?
You wouldn't need much, the square-sectioned piston seal is there to do the job, right?

[racefactory]

Really? Amazing.. I have a lathe but have no idea how to use it a. If anyone wants to make some VFR pistons feel free to come over and use my lathe!!

[Max Preload]

You wouldn't need much, the square-sectioned piston seal is there to do the job, right?

But you don't want it racking over and damaging the caliper housing...

[xwhatsit]

True.

Dude! Where in the North Island are you? So many uses for a lathe :D

[racefactory]

True.

Dude! Where in the North Island are you? So many uses for a lathe :D

hey dude,

i'm in Auckland.

Yeah i guess there are a lot of uses- someone come over and make some shit!

[motorbyclist]

is it in your garage or at work? i've got one at work but it's buried in a corner and you spend more time looking for tools than actually using the thing

tis great for making nylon pocket rocket pegs though:D

[racefactory]

lol ohh is that how they make them? I've got some on my modded to hell B1.

It's in my garage a... personally i'd love to learn how to use it so, as has been said, if you want to make some shit- come on over!

:chase:

[racefactory]

Ok if i've got a rear brake lever that works but you just have to press it quite a bit further/harder than most - does that mean bleed brake system? Or is that more likely pads?

Because i don't want to go buy this brake bleeder kit until i know the cause.

Thanks!

[imdying]

Might mean your caliper is partially seized.

[racefactory]

not sure man it don't drag or anything a... it just requires more travel and isn't 'solid'.

[imdying]

Personally, if I had an 18 year old NC30, I'd strip the entire system front and rear, replace any old rubber hoses, assess the pads and replace if required, and replace the calipers seals that've been through a zillion heatcycles (the profile of the square section orings in the calipers degrades with time and makes them slow to retract, contributing to bad brake 'feel'). Then bleed it with fresh fluid, and she'll be stopping like a good un in no time. Probably take the best part of an afternoon, so not time consuming, probably cost a little under $200, so not expensive either.

Sports bikes should stop as well as they go, and brakes require regular maintenance.

[Subike]

Check that the caliper slide is not binding. If it is clean, lube and reinstall.
If not, rekit the caliper.
Dismantle it, clean up the piston with some 600 or higher wet/dry sandpaper, also use the paper on the inside of the caliper, blow out with air, reassemble and bleed.

Dont use petrol to clean the piston use brake fluid on a cotton cloth,

[motorbyclist]

Ok if i've got a rear brake lever that works but you just have to press it quite a bit further/harder than most - does that mean bleed brake system? Or is that more likely pads?

Because i don't want to go buy this brake bleeder kit until i know the cause.

Thanks!

wtf are you buying a brake bleeder kit for?

your pads may be oily, the seals dodgy, caliper needs serious cleaning, the disc rooted, the new/foreign pads not yet being worn to the profile of the new/foreign disc, or of course bubbles/crappy fluid which you can bleed without buying some overpriced kit for (and if you really want to use a kit, just borrow one)

heck the previous owner may have got silicone spray on the disc by mistake


as others have said, pull it off and clean her up, do the seals and flush the fluid. then you'll know the brakes are 100% and won't need doing again in the near future. do it one and do it proper :)

(this is neel's bike yeah? tbh the front brake isn't as sharp as it could be either, felt like the pads were less than effective. yeah he cleaned it before i rode it but i gave her a fair test. the NC30 will pull 1g of braking force if she's set up right... like my old one was:crybaby:)

[racefactory]

feels good to me- it can lock the front wheel alright that's for sure... whether the IRC tyre can handle 1g braking force is another story.

So when you bleed the brakes- do you need to submerge the other end of the tube that's in the jar in brake fluid?

[Subike]

yes, so that air cannot return back up the pipe when you release the brake lever. Pumping it will pump the air out, and any crap in the pipes and slave cylinder, ensure you keep the master cylinder full while you do this with clean new fluid. The fluid that comes out into the jar will be contaminated with moisture, dust ,tiny air bubbles etc. It may look clean, but it is toss away material. Take your time and make sure you have rags around any area where fluid "may" spill. ensure that the master cylinder cap is clean, dust free and a snug fit when you replace it.

[motorbyclist]

i'd suggest using a bottle rather than a jug;)

put some tape to block neck/hold tube and that's one disaster averted.

and read a manual for the proper technique rather than us all arguing over it. i've seen/tried a few different ways and they all seem to work (unless of course bleeding wasn't the solution in the first place)

- i find just pumping the lever is totally inneffective as the fluid gets sucked back up as much as it gets pushed down.
-try pushing down, close nipple, return lever, open nipple, lever down (as specified in my yamaha manual) (could experiment with sealing reservoir with hand instead?)
-i've found using a large capacity syrnge works well in both directions (got that one from family)

[Tony W]

oops, sorry answered wrong thread.

[motorbyclist]

was a good answer though!

[vagrant]

For future reference, and other bits you may need, try these guys in the UK.

http://shop.wemoto.com/index.dyn?oid=25335

I have bought a couple of gaskets kits from them, as well as a brake caliper seal kit.
They also sell stuff cheaply thru eBay.

[racefactory]

thanks!

Hey my front brake lever, when adjusted to anything less than full extension from the handle bar, will not hold position but rather it will move with slack all the way through till the farthest point from the handle bar.

So in other words the bar does not stay where you adjust it, it moves out, however the point where the brakes activate does work with the adjustment but the lever will still move away.

Someone said i need a new brake lever but i don't see why, it seems i would need some sort of spring to keep it tensioned at the point i set it?

?