Log in

View Full Version : Dammit: broken bolt extraction, Christchurch



HenryDorsetCase
24th August 2008, 21:54
OK, so I am putting my newly rebuilt forks back in the bike and I have broken a bolt which holds my clipon bars to the forks. The hole is threaded halfway thru the clamp so you cant get in to centre punch it from the "front" I did manage to get in from the back * but have broken the only Ezy out I had which fitted.

So I may need to give it to someone to set it up in a drill press, drill it out and helicoil the hole. I am going back to George Henry tomorrow morning to get another Ezy out, but if that doesnt work....

Who in Christchurch?


*hur hur.

laRIKin
25th August 2008, 17:14
Bugger it may not be a easy thing to remove.

I would have to see it to give any advise.

JMemonic
26th August 2008, 02:48
I have a drill press here but ezy outs are not that easy to drill out :(, come along on Wednesday night if need be we can have a look and think up a solution.

wysper
26th August 2008, 07:08
maybe some of the ideas here might help?

http://www.kiwibiker.co.nz/forums/showthread.php?t=78254

awayatc
26th August 2008, 07:12
It is your clip on itself with the broken bolt is it?
If it is then it shouldn't be to hard to take it with you to an engineering workshop....,
But as is mentioned above, easyouts are not easy to drill ....
Good luck

laRIKin
26th August 2008, 18:35
You can not drill an ezy out.:no:

They are as hard if not harder than a drill.

You can die grind them if you want to spend a week every nigh and pay for a pocket full of tips every night.

Trust me I have been there and done that with a broken ezy out in a swing arm after a bolt had rusted (welded) it self in place.
I ground and chipped it out and then heli-coiled to complete the repair.

You can electro-wire-erode (think thats the correct name for it) them out.
And there are not many other ways of getting them out.
I'm sorry to say, if they are really jammed.

Like I say in my first post, I would have to see it to give any real advise.
As there can be other ways of getting them out.

But do not try and drill a hard ezy-out when it has soft aluminum around it, or you will be so sorry.

flyingbrick
1st September 2008, 20:31
I'd try getting someone to tig weld something to the easyout and/or bolt.

wait for it to cool- then warm the aluminum and hope it expands enough to loosen the bolt or easyout enough for some rotating.

imdying
5th September 2008, 10:59
*snip good advice*What he said... don't mess with a broken ezy out, you'll only make the engineers job harder.

Post some pics, if one end of the bolt doesn't have the ezy out exposed, there may be hope yet... You put the ezy out in the bottom end right? Well, if there's just bolt exposed in the other end, then perhaps a left hand twist drill bit in a reversible drill would let you get it out? With a bit of luck it'd grab and wind it out. Maybe.

NOMIS
5th September 2008, 11:11
I did the same thing on my exhaust headers on my vl commy when i was a aprentice, not easy ended up leavinfg it it didnt leak so was lucky. was gunna costme a fortune to get it taken out otherwise.

once u snap the ezy out your stuffed really.

mouldy
5th September 2008, 17:02
You will have to get the ezy out spark eroded out and then drill the boken bolt out but in the future if you are using ezy outs to get out broken bolts experience has shown that first you should apply some penetrant , Wurths Rost off ice is the best and then apply heat to the item your broken bolt is in and the you won;t snap ezy outs ,. The hammer in ones are better then the screw in ones as well cos the screw in ones expand the bolt as you wind them in .

flyingbrick
5th September 2008, 17:12
The hammer in ones are better then the screw in ones as well cos the screw in ones expand the bolt as you wind them in .

Thats good advice there.

Have been stuck for easy outs more than once and used allen keys bashed in :-D

imdying
5th September 2008, 17:57
Wurths Rost Off+1 on this.

Wurth stuff isn't the cheapest, but it's worth the money. Unlike ghey old 556 (I know I know, but people still think it's good for this task), it appears to have some sort of oil in it, so it doesn't evaporate and dissappear straight away.

Stormer
5th September 2008, 18:00
If possible, tig or mig a suitable sized nut onto the stud.
Make it a good weld, heaps of grunt and no birdshit.
As soon as the redness fades, use a socket or spanner to get that sucker out.