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View Full Version : Who knows their sealants?



98tls
2nd September 2008, 14:01
Desperatly need a sealer for a tank,had a look round on the interweb and from what i gather theres many options trouble is most of them will say resistant to petrol/oil etc but how resistant seems to go from a couple of hours to a few months,searched some other bike forums but havent yet found anything long lasting,anyone know of such a thing? I have a very thin crack (needed a bright light to pick it up) long story short i cant weld it as its right where the fuel pump gasket sits.Dont wont to use what people think might work, hoping someone knows of something that does work.

EJK
2nd September 2008, 14:08
I havn't use it (yet) but someone (Drum) suggested me to get this on mine...
http://www.por15.co.nz/POR15Prod/motorcyclekit.htm

The Stranger
2nd September 2008, 14:10
These guys (http://www.sika.co.nz/) have the best shit and the best technical staff.
If they say it works it bloody works.

98tls
2nd September 2008, 14:26
Cheers guys.EJK i rang a bloke in Dunners that stocks that stuff and hes adamant he has the fix,not the repair kit itself but some other gunk the bike shops down there buy off him.Many thanks.

bungbung
2nd September 2008, 14:31
I have used POR15 on my bucket. It had lots of pinholes along the seams and was pretty rusty inside. It has not leaked since application, say six months ago.

I have used metal filled epoxy to repair cracks in another bucket tank, applied to the exterior of the tank, this might also work for you depending on the seal you mentioned.

I think the problem with most of these sealers is in the application. It takes a lot of time and patience to get a good clean surface for the sealer to adhere to.

k14
2nd September 2008, 15:05
I have used loctite gasket (I think 515) and that is awesome stuff. Used it on the float bowl of a carb on my bucket (so similar application to you) about 3 months ago and no sign of leaking yet. I think the datasheet said 6-12 months in petrol??

Rhubarb
2nd September 2008, 15:33
I have used Loctite (or Permatex) fuel tank repair. It is a two part epoxy that when mixed together starts a chemical reaction to make it set. You have about 10 minutes working time before it gets to hard to shape. I haven't used it on my bike but it sealed a hair line crack in the fuel tank of my race car. Its been there for about 3 years now with no problems.

scumdog
2nd September 2008, 17:00
Most of the proprietry 'sloshing compounds' work but my concern would be: What caused the crack and even more crucial; is it likely to spread??

marty
2nd September 2008, 17:08
PRC fuel tank sealer is the gold standard. aircraft are stuck together with the stuff. i might have some 'expired' stuff around - it's pretty nasty stuff until it goes off though.

howdamnhard
2nd September 2008, 17:16
Yes PRC is pretty good stuff but nasty .But as scumdog said cracks normally grow and need stop drilling.Can you not weld the area and then machine/grind it flush afterwards.

98tls
2nd September 2008, 17:48
Most of the proprietry 'sloshing compounds' work but my concern would be: What caused the crack and even more crucial; is it likely to spread?? At a guess i would say as its at the lowest part of the tank its where water has settled for years,bad tank sealing from the get go.As for getting worse i guess in time it would,rust inhibiter primer then the sealant is my best chance methinks,the hole is so small its not visible until a very bright light is put behind it.I at first thought the leak was the fuel pump gasket which is prone to go bad.Will still replace that and the filter whilst at it.

98tls
2nd September 2008, 17:51
Yes PRC is pretty good stuff but nasty .But as scumdog said cracks normally grow and need stop drilling.Can you not weld the area and then machine/grind it flush afterwards. Believe me i would if i could,hard to explain but its position means i cant,double checked with someone with way more knowledge on these things than me and he agreed.

Ixion
2nd September 2008, 19:23
Araldite. It works. Acknowledgement to Mr WINJA.

FROSTY
2nd September 2008, 19:28
A lot of products work really well. They are let down simply by bad surface preperation or by corrosion on the other side -I agree with the araldite theory.
Have you priced up a second hand tanK??

speedpro
2nd September 2008, 22:14
I think it's called Kreem. It's a multi step process. Cleaner, preparer, sealant. done properly it works well. Stops those annoying rust flakes blocking filters as well as stopping leaks. We had kits at Henderson Motorcycles for example.

BRV
3rd September 2008, 18:41
PRC is the best of the best, we use it in the aeronautical industry with no problems. As mentioned previously you should stop drill the crack first to stop it growing.

98tls
3rd September 2008, 20:49
A lot of products work really well. They are let down simply by bad surface preperation or by corrosion on the other side -I agree with the araldite theory.
Have you priced up a second hand tanK?? The problem is getting one the same colour,crazy as it sounds get paint for this thing is a nightmare,i have the paint code 3YG,ive tried all over with no luck in fact to get paint for the undertray i ended up getting it from an outfit in England.....yea i know it sounds crazy,talking to guys on the TL forum from all over the world who havent had anymore success than i have with getting it,having a paint code is one thing,having the formula is another apparently,as far as i know its a silver base with the other colour over the top,yonks ago i tried to get someone to match the paint on a fairing panel and in the end bought a new one,crazy.

EJK
4th September 2008, 11:58
So did you succeed getting one?

If so, how and where did you get it?

98tls
4th September 2008, 18:31
Went with the stuff in your link mate,they have a list of suppliers on there website,supposed to be damn good stuff,yet to get it on but will post up how it goes.

Kwaka14
4th September 2008, 18:44
Go with the POR 15, you just have to very careful to follow directions and get it all absolutely dry and relatively clean first (not easy with a fuel tank) and then the etch primer cleans up any debris and the sealer sticks to that. it took me about a week to gaet the tank back on the old GPX I had lying around for a bit.