Exhaust Manifold protectant

[WanaGo]

Hey all,

Just wondering if anyone knows of a good paint, or something you can put on rusted/pitted exhaust manifold? It doesnt have any holes etc, and wont for quite a while, but it is getting a bit rusty and pitted, and I want to make it last a bit longer. Is there a specail high temp paint you can get?

Cheers
WanaGo

[Biff]

I've used rubbing compound on my old bikes exhausts' in the past. It rubs out the rust and pits, although you may need to use a bit of elbow grease. Afterwards I apply some rust inhibiter from your local automotive store.

Hope this helps.

[WanaGo]

So somewhere like Repco or supercheap auto would have that stuff?

Cheers dude

WanaGo

[merv]

On the bikes I've had with painted pipes I use the VHT 1300degF Flameproof matt black stuff. Just clean off as much of the rust as you can then spray paint the thing. You can buy the cans at Repco and/or probably hardware stores. Check out Repco though, they might have something else to suit a manifold that you prefer.

[vifferman]

There are special high-temp paints available from places like Repco.

However, I used one on my VTR's headers, and most of it bubbled off when it got hot. Can't remember the brand, but it was the one that said it contained ceramic and was used on the space shuttle. :angry:

One I had more luck with previously was one that said it was specifically for bike's expansion chambers and zorsts. It didn't bubble off the pipes I used it one, but neither was it what I'd call permanent.

Also, there are places like HPC that do high-temp coatings; you take the bits in, and they'll sandblast and coat them for you. They have good reviews for longevity, but the application can be a bit variable depending on how much care they take.

[XTC]

gonna pull the headers off my XT600e before i even start it and get the HPC coated.

[Biff]

So somewhere like Repco or supercheap auto would have that stuff?

Cheers dude

WanaGo

Yep - I bought mine from Repco. Works a treat.

[WanaGo]

Biff Baff,

Any idea on the brand or name of the stuff.... might go get me some

Cheers for the replys you others... Ill have a look at what else they have and see what they recommend aswell.

Cheers
WanaGo

[Zapf]

I would recommend coatings like HPC as well.... its used in may automotive applications... e.g exhaust headers and turbo stuff and they llast a long time.

[Skunk]

However, I used one on my VTR's headers, and most of it bubbled off when it got hot. Can't remember the brand, but it was the one that said it contained ceramic and was used on the space shuttle. :angry: That explains a few things then... :shutup:

[Biff]

Biff Baff,

Any idea on the brand or name of the stuff.... might go get me some

Cheers for the replys you others... Ill have a look at what else they have and see what they recommend aswell.

Cheers
WanaGo

Not off the top of my head no. From what I recall Repco only sell one brand. I'll have alook at the tin tonight when I get home and let you know.

[WanaGo]

Yeah the coating does sound good. Not sure who does it down here though (Palmy). Also - dont really have 200 bucks to spend on doing this - was just something I noticed that I though I should act on before it got much worse.
I'll go into repco in the next hour, and have a look at what they have, and also Super Cheap Auto, and will ask someone there.

Also - if anyone has seen my other post
http://www.kiwibiker.co.nz/forums/showthread.php?t=7968&page=4
I mentioned this aswell, but I also have a temperature query that I cant figure out. If anyone has any idea what may be happening, I would appriciate it.

Cheers
WanaGo

[PSYCHO]

if you pull the header pipes off you may aswell get em sandblasted to get all the rust and crap off them before painting.

A good idea is to make up a gaurd with aluminum mesh (like the boyracers use) for the radiator and carry it on lower to also protect the pipes from stone chips(which will start the rust over again)

[Paul in NZ]

Well yes! The VHT 1300 deg is great stuff. It is a true Matt finish. You can add a satin clear over the top but it is not very durable.

The gloss heat resistant 'engine enamel' is almost OK for some mufflers but won't last a single ride on a bike header.

My advice is thus!

Don't try and spray it on without removing the headers!

Get stuck in with the wire brush and wet and dry sandpaper to remove the years of crud and (most importantly) grease. Wash it all with a good solvent (meths is good) and let it dry.

Spray it outside on a fine day without too much wind.

A can does not go far, a 4 into 1 might need 2 cans.

Give it a tack coat all over first. Follow up with a better cover coat. (many fine coats better than one thick one)

If you get a nasty run or something goes wrong (blisters). Stop. Let it dry and sand it out, start again.

Spray in long even coats. Start and finish each stroke away from the piece.
If the nozzle gets clogged. Invert the can and spray (onto cardboard or something) until the spray goes clear. Wipe off the nozzle and try again (when you finish and have paint left do this too)

Let it dry HARD before you fit it back on the bike! (over night)

Once it's fitted start the bike and get them hot. This will cure the paint and there will be a lot of smoke so do it outside!

To keep it clean (shh - this is the secret tip) wipe the crap off, go to the local old fashioned hardware store and buy some stove black (for pot bellies etc) and wipe it on (funny stuff, goes everywhere) but it will keep them looking black for years and 1 bottle lasts forever.

Paul N

[WanaGo]

lol,

thanks for that top secret tip! That may come in handy actually!

It will be on the headers, not the muffler... Ill go have a chat to some people in the shop now. Wont buy anything yet, but will get some info...
Ill keep all this info in mind too.

Be back soon

WanaGo

[Motu]

Also, there are places like HPC that do high-temp coatings; you take the bits in, and they'll sandblast and coat them for you. They have good reviews for longevity, but the application can be a bit variable depending on how much care they take.


It more depends on the condition of the pipes rather than their workmanship,the coating goes inside and out,damaged pipes can be written off after cleaning,they can get too thin.I had my pipes done on the XLV750,they were perfect...but they prefer not to do used exhausts and should warn you before they start that it might not be satisfactory.

[Hoon]

So somewhere like Repco or supercheap auto would have that stuff?

Yeah deal to it with a wire brush then hit it with some "Rust Inhibiter" I think its called. Comes from any auto shop in a bottle/tin with a green & black label and the small one only costs $15. Not only does it do a good job of removing rust, it also kills and prevents it too. Then hose it off and paint.

[WanaGo]

Just went into super cheap, and they had stuff called 'rust converter' in a small bottle, worth about $15 I think, probably the stuff you are talking about. They also had some paint that said it was for manifolds and exhausts and bbq's and stuff like that. 1500 Degree F, and 815 Degree C. Would a dose of wire brush, followed by rust converter then with a paint with that paint do the trick you think? I couldnt see the VHT 1300, maybe that is in repco.

EDIT: Just rang repco, they have the VHT 1300, and VHT Flameproof too. Rust converter stuff is $9 for a small bottle.

Cheers
WanaGo

[Blakamin]

I'm totally with Paul in NZ on this... if you apply it right!

otherwise it wall fall off in 5 minutes... PREPARATION! CLEAN!!!!

[WanaGo]

yup I agree too, but was more wondering if it was worth putting on the rust converter stuff aswell, before the final sanding and the cleaning and the paint etc.

And what is better, VHT 1300, or VHT Flameproof, or some Motorguard (or something similar to that name) 1500 from supercheap Auto.
ie 1500 compared to 1300... (or is it 1300 Degrees Celcius, rather than 1500 Fareinheit)

Cheers
WanaGo

[Skunk]

Rust converter stuff is $9 for a small bottle.But will it stand the heat?

[Paul in NZ]

Buy the highest heat rating you can get in a name brand. ie Duplicolour or VHT. DON'T use one free with every grandfather clock generic stuff. It's shite

[WanaGo]

The rust converter is just something you apply, then wash off, or sand off or whatever. You dont leave it on, like you still paint it etc.
That is what I gathered from when I looked at the bottle.

Sounds like I have it sussed now. Ill give it a go in the next little while.

Thanks heaps for all the help everyone. :spudwave:

Regards

WanaGo