View Full Version : SV1000 N suspension set up/advice (bars waving at me at speed!)
bounce
14th September 2008, 21:52
hi guys.
just bought an SV1000N and am keep for suggestions on suspension set up - any SV owners that can tell me settings that have worked well for them? (I'm 70 odd kg)
Planning to revert all settings back to stock as per handbook since previous owner was even lighter.
What I don;t like in particular is that it gets quite a weave on when accelerating up to overtaking speeds. Bars get a bit of a gentle wave going which I find a bit of a worry. Anyone had this issue? I can see that the rear spring preload is showing no thread and handbook suggests 7mm showing as stock. Would winding this back up to standard be a good starting point?
Cheers, any suggestions appreciated.
98tls
14th September 2008, 22:01
Pm Imdying,he will sort you out.
dipshit
15th September 2008, 07:42
hi guys.
Planning to revert all settings back to stock as per handbook since previous owner was even lighter.
That's a good idea for a good starting point. There is no telling what odd settings someone else could have dialled in.
What I don;t like in particular is that it gets quite a weave on when accelerating up to overtaking speeds. Bars get a bit of a gentle wave going which I find a bit of a worry. Anyone had this issue?
My SV behaved a bit like that from showroom condition too. (I'm also just over 70 kgs) It would even weave when rolling into medium-fast speed corners. All that went away once I started backing off compression damping - particularly on the front. Just 1/4 of a turn softer from the standard settings on compression damping for the forks made a large difference.
I also back off compression damping on the shock a smidge too.
I can see that the rear spring preload is showing no thread and handbook suggests 7mm showing as stock. Would winding this back up to standard be a good starting point?
That sounds a bit odd. Certainly put everything back to standard and start over afresh.
F5 Dave
15th September 2008, 17:47
A weave & a wave are two different things. yes start at stock positions, also find recommended tyre pressures for what you are running. & then the tyres you are running may be worn, mismatched or unsuitable for the bike. Rear tyre may be squared off, that tends to make bars wobble. esp if let go of bars decelerating from say 70k to 50, depending on the bike.
If the bike is also weaving then I'd suspect tyres or wheel alignment. Tyre balance & tyre issues can cloud things a bit also. I wouldn't expect an SV to have knackered headbrgs yet, but novice wheelies & warped discs can kill them in short order.
bounce
17th September 2008, 16:30
stock settings didn't help. what is funny is that having the pack rack on straightens it all out quite nicely. Guess it is adding a lot of weight through wind drag to the rear. hmm, I'll keep playing and take it to the pros if no improvement.
vifferman
17th September 2008, 16:35
Hmmmm....
What's the front tyre tread like? Does it show any signs of uneven wear?
The other thing is, are the front forks in their stock position in the triple clamps? If they've been raised through the clamps, and putting a packrack on the back makes the bike handle better, then try dropping them a bit (raising the front).
98tls
17th September 2008, 16:40
Fwiw if you get a mo try over at TLZONE.NET they have a SV forum on there,someone may be able to help.
bounce
17th September 2008, 17:17
cheers guys, tyres are looking fine wear wise, road pilots at 32F/36R. Forks are as high as they could go in the clamps (maybe 2mm showing). One of the disks does seem to have a very faint warp in it. only just visible. doesn't seem to be enough to make braking uneven.
cheers, will have a read on tlzone too. ta.
imdying
17th September 2008, 17:29
More tyre pressure.
bounce
17th September 2008, 17:51
More tyre pressure.
I would usually go for 36F/40R?
the current pressures are what the shop set it to for me.
puddytat
17th September 2008, 19:08
:yes:
More tyre pressure.
Yup Id try that too....
Fargin Khan
17th September 2008, 20:40
I also have just bought an SV1000 naked and was very unhappy with its handling. The previous owner had the front way too soft and the back set like a brick. In tried fiddling with the compression dampning on boths ends and made a small improvement but it still felt terrible. two weeks ago I called into a friends place and we set the sag front and rear. I weigh 85kg and set the sag at around 40mm. This made a huge difference on it own as the front was sagging almost half travel and the rear just needed a little more pre load. Last weekend just gone I removed the forks and drained the stock scunge out of the forks and flushed them out with kero. After letting the forks drain overnight , I refilled them with Motul 5w and set the level fully compressed at 162mm. I reassembled the front end and then set all the damping front and rear to the stock settings. After a short ride I decreased the rebound one quarter of a turn on the forks. Then took it out on the windiest back road for a real world roadtest. A huge difference , the bike feels more planted and tracks better. I still think some flash cartridges and springs in the front and a decent Ohlins in the rear would be the ultimate, but what I have done has made the handling much better and not so scary in the faster corners. The other thing I did was drop the forks 5mm in the triple clamps which has quickened the steering a little. Hope this is of some help as I know suspension settings are very much personal preference and what works for me may feel like a dogs dinner to someone else.
imdying
18th September 2008, 10:46
I would usually go for 36F/40R?
the current pressures are what the shop set it to for me.
That would be closer to ideal. It doesn't surprise me that it's weaving when it's running around on flat tyres :laugh:
Don't dial in too much damping either, not pleasant.
imdying
18th September 2008, 10:48
I still think some flash cartridges and springs in the frontOn the K5 onwards models, you cannot put replacement cartridges into them. You would be best to talk to Robert Taylor about your options.
dipshit
18th September 2008, 10:58
Forks are as high as they could go in the clamps (maybe 2mm showing).
Standard is 6 to 8mm showing.
One of the disks does seem to have a very faint warp in it.
Get it measured for runout.
OutForADuck
18th September 2008, 11:15
Fargin_Khan is onto it. 70Kgs would probably make you alittle light for standard settings. But start with those and set Sag right. zip tie the forks to get an idea of travel being used at front and marker the rear slider for same reason (Draw on slider with permanent marker, it will rub off as shock compresses and let you know travel being used). Adjust the preload until you are using a decent amount of that travel front and rear (hit a few potholes for good measure). Then work separately on compression and rebound damping. Keep a log of settings and take your time over each. I would also agree with tire pressures being a little low, but wouldn't expect that to produce a weave.
Suspension setup, as pointed out is very personal except when it comes to handling problems.
'
This is a great arcticle on seting up http://www.moto-racing.co.uk/Guides/motorcycleSuspensionSetup.htm
BTW, lowering the tripple clamps a little also puts more weight over the front and can help alot with securing the front wheel... but experiment a little at a time.
Robert Taylor
19th September 2008, 07:35
Ditching the progressive front fork springs with linear wind appropriate to your personal stats and playing with the oil level ( and viscosity ) makes a huge bang for buck improvement on these. The cartridges are sealed for life so to replace them is rather a dollar exercise.
imdying
19th September 2008, 10:45
Ditching the progressive front fork springs with linear wind appropriate to your personal stats and playing with the oil level ( and viscosity ) makes a huge bang for buck improvement on these. The cartridges are sealed for life so to replace them is rather a dollar exercise.Thanks for the info :)
So the 05 onwards fronts are a 'Can revalve but is serious coin' as opposed to 'Can't revalve, they're a destroy to remove item'?
Robert Taylor
19th September 2008, 17:03
Thanks for the info :)
So the 05 onwards fronts are a 'Can revalve but is serious coin' as opposed to 'Can't revalve, they're a destroy to remove item'?
That is pretty much so and I believe we will see more of this insidious accountancy driven trend, irrespective of brand.
dipshit
3rd October 2008, 08:45
stock settings didn't help.
Did you try softening the front compression damping though?
Powered by vBulletin® Version 4.2.5 Copyright © 2025 vBulletin Solutions Inc. All rights reserved.