View Full Version : Puncture repairs
Bass
17th September 2008, 10:38
Following our experiences in Oz and observations here, I have decided to properly equip myself for roadside puncture repair. The kit will include: -
Spare tubes
Vulcanising solvent
Patches
Tyre levers
Selected hand tools
I will also throw in some emery paper and my Slime air compressor
I seek some assistance however on supporting the bike with one wheel off the ground (no centre stand on a DR). In Oz Jamie discovered that the tomahawk stuffed under the rear linkage jacked the back up nicely but we never devised a means to hold the front up (and never needed it on that trip thankfully).
Has anyone out there come up with a small, portable, lightweight gadget that can be used to support either end of the bike for this purpose?
Obviously we have all seen logs, fenceposts, mounds and other bits of the scenery used, but I'm looking for something that I can toss in the bag and take with me.
cooneyr
17th September 2008, 10:57
Re the leg idea I had a length of cam locking tent pole that I could position just under the front of the bash plate (small hole in the plate and locating pin in the top of the pole) that worked but it was pretty wobbly. Doesnt work with the XTZ cause the front end is so damn heavy and the cam lock not strong enough.
Another very interesting product is the small portable bead breaker (http://bestrestproducts.com/celestia/products/beadbreaker/) made by BestRest products in the states. Uses 3 tyre irons as the leavers so you don't have to carry too much more weight. Tempted to fire the welder up one day and have ago at something similar.
Cheers R
Bass
17th September 2008, 11:48
Re the leg idea I had a length of cam locking tent pole that I could position just under the front of the bash plate (small hole in the plate and locating pin in the top of the pole) that worked but it was pretty wobbly. Doesnt work with the XTZ cause the front end is so damn heavy and the cam lock not strong enough.
You give me an idea here - the telescoping tent pole might work but with the through-pin and multiple holes rather than the cam lock. I have quite a bit of medium/large bore aluminium tubing lying around the garage from when I used to make tuned pipes for my racing model aircraft.
Thanks for that.
Another very interesting product is the small portable bead breaker (http://bestrestproducts.com/celestia/products/beadbreaker/) made by BestRest products in the states. Uses 3 tyre irons as the leavers so you don't have to carry too much more weight. Tempted to fire the welder up one day and have ago at something similar.
Cheers R
We found that one man standing on the tyre and the other using 2 tyre levers back to back, worked quite well. Not much use on your own but, and breaking the bead is often the most difficult part of the job.
warewolf
17th September 2008, 12:37
There's a commercial product available that is like a stout telescoping alloy tent pole. Motomail used to have them. Has a fitting at the end that pivots, you clip it to the bike, it lean/lift the bike and it swings underneath. Works on front and rear.
cooneyr
17th September 2008, 13:14
....We found that one man standing on the tyre and the other using 2 tyre levers back to back, worked quite well. Not much use on your own but, and breaking the bead is often the most difficult part of the job.
Yep the DR rear is a bit of a bitch and I'm waiting to see what the desert rear on the XTZ will be like before attempting to make a bead breaker. Side stand of another bike (put the bike onto the side stand with the stand foot on the other bikes tyre) apparently works but never had the opportunity to try it.
Cheers R
Crisis management
17th September 2008, 13:29
Interestingly I have found TKC's easy to break off but stiffer sidewall tyres, MT21 pirelli for instance, a real bastard on the DR, I'm not looking forward to trying the KTM as they have a nasty reputation.
Anywho, I was clearing the huge pile of crap in my workshop on the weekend and came across a pair of coil spring clamps (used to lower car suspension in a fairly dubious manner) which consist of a long bolt with two "hooks", one at each end. A quick look shows they may, with a bit of modification fit over a rim to break the bead. These things are cheap ($20 ish), light and easy to use and may be worth a look to see if they will really work as a bead breaker.
Slime air pumps, Bass where did you find yours, I've been looking for one for a while now......
cooneyr
17th September 2008, 13:50
...MT21 pirelli for instance, a real bastard on the DR...
Tis one of the reasons I stuck with the D606's - much easier to change on the DR. Interesting comments on the stiffer sidewalls being easier to break the bead on. Maybe there is less flex hence when you jump on the sidewall and it actually does something re pulling the bead off.
G clamps work well instead of the spring compressors but you need one that is big enough which means it probably wont fit in a tail bag easily.
Cheers R
Bass
17th September 2008, 16:41
Slime air pumps, Bass where did you find yours, I've been looking for one for a while now......
I brought it in from the States and remarkably cheap it was too - about $35 US. I followed a link given in a thread in the Oz forum on ADV, but have no other record of it. I will see if I can find it. It was in a thread about Repco having them on special over there.
Got it!!!! It was from here.
http://motopumps.com/
Called Slime powersport inflator
The other thing I recall was that it arrived 4 days after me placing the order - excellent response.
Bass
17th September 2008, 16:57
Tis one of the reasons I stuck with the D606's - much easier to change on the DR. Interesting comments on the stiffer sidewalls being easier to break the bead on. Maybe there is less flex hence when you jump on the sidewall and it actually does something re pulling the bead off.
Cheers R
Ummm.... I've read it a couple of times now and I know that I am well out into short plank territory, but didn't he say that the stiffer sidewall was HARDER to remove?
Crisis management
17th September 2008, 19:46
Ummm.... I've read it a couple of times now and I know that I am well out into short plank territory, but didn't he say that the stiffer sidewall was HARDER to remove?
Yer right, was about to point that out myself. The softer sidewall just caved in and allowed the bead to pop off where the stiffer wall required a greater degree of force.
The spring compressor I was talking about is actually very small, about the size of a tyre lever, see pic 1. My thoughts, admitedtly brief ones, were that with a bit of modification it could be made to hold the rim / tyre on one side and apply pressure to the bead on the other, something like pic2.
I will have a go at modifying it next week and see what happens.
NordieBoy
17th September 2008, 21:44
Following our experiences in Oz and observations here, I have decided to properly equip myself for roadside puncture repair. The kit will include: -
Spare tubes
Vulcanising solvent
Patches
Tyre levers
Selected hand tools
I will also throw in some emery paper and my Slime air compressor
I seek some assistance however on supporting the bike with one wheel off the ground (no centre stand on a DR). In Oz Jamie discovered that the tomahawk stuffed under the rear linkage jacked the back up nicely but we never devised a means to hold the front up (and never needed it on that trip thankfully).
Has anyone out there come up with a small, portable, lightweight gadget that can be used to support either end of the bike for this purpose?
Obviously we have all seen logs, fenceposts, mounds and other bits of the scenery used, but I'm looking for something that I can toss in the bag and take with me.
How about this one...
http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=262648
cooneyr
17th September 2008, 21:56
Ummm.... I've read it a couple of times now and I know that I am well out into short plank territory, but didn't he say that the stiffer sidewall was HARDER to remove?
:Oops: as you were. Doh - not looking good for the Deserts.
Cheers R
Bass
18th September 2008, 09:08
How about this one...
http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=262648
Ace - thanks!
warewolf
18th September 2008, 09:34
I'm not looking forward to trying the KTM as they have a nasty reputation.Never heard that before. The 640A and the EXC are neutral, no better or worse than any of the others I've done. Ditto the 9x0 I helped with, I didn't notice any unusual grief.
Zeph
18th September 2008, 09:56
I made a side stand jack out of an aluminium expandable walking stick as detailed in the "Adventure Riders". It works a treat. I store it, along with the puncture gear, in a PVC tool tube bolted to the sump guard. I keep a second one in the garage and use it when cleaning and oiling the chain.
Recommend the idea.
Crisis management
18th September 2008, 13:40
Never heard that before. The 640A and the EXC are neutral, no better or worse than any of the others I've done. Ditto the 9x0 I helped with, I didn't notice any unusual grief.
Hopefully your right ( I must admit you usually are...). I have no idea where I got that titbit from but "somewhere" I picked up the idea they had a reputation for being hard to break the bead on.
I will find out when I fit the TKC's at the end of summer!
NordieBoy
18th September 2008, 16:43
The DR rear has the "bead" reputation.
Bass
18th September 2008, 16:57
The DR rear has the "bead" reputation.
Groan :sick:
tri boy
18th September 2008, 18:02
Telescoping hospital crutches work well as a emergency prop once they are kicked out from under a 70 years old hip replacement paitent, and then chopped to size. (the crutch, not the paitent), mind you, I have a problem with 70-80 yr old wrinkles getting hip op's off my tax any way.:mad:
(Bastards will be dead before it heals, rant, rant rant............
Frodo
18th September 2008, 18:09
I carry this 10 x 40 x 365mm wooden slat around with me - fits under paddock stand lugs. Works well on the back wheel and is stable - probably more stable than the KLR idea using the foot peg. Haven't got a solution for the front, but am motivated to try something based on a walking cane..
There was an article in Two Wheels a couple of months back about a stainless steel turnbuckle with foot. Looked neat, but my slat works for me.
I have a Kathmandu bicycle pump that fits under the bike seat. Fine for adjusting tyre pressure (e.g. going from gravel to seal) and would work (slowly) to fix a flat.
Cheers
Oscar
18th September 2008, 18:24
Following our experiences in Oz and observations here, I have decided to properly equip myself for roadside puncture repair. The kit will include: -
Spare tubes
Vulcanising solvent
Patches
Tyre levers
Selected hand tools
I will also throw in some emery paper and my Slime air compressor
I seek some assistance however on supporting the bike with one wheel off the ground (no centre stand on a DR). In Oz Jamie discovered that the tomahawk stuffed under the rear linkage jacked the back up nicely but we never devised a means to hold the front up (and never needed it on that trip thankfully).
Has anyone out there come up with a small, portable, lightweight gadget that can be used to support either end of the bike for this purpose?
Obviously we have all seen logs, fenceposts, mounds and other bits of the scenery used, but I'm looking for something that I can toss in the bag and take with me.
I'll go with bits of the scenery or simply turning the gas off and going flat side down.
A small container of dishwashing liquid is always a good idea.
ducatijim
18th September 2008, 19:44
I'll go with bits of the scenery or simply turning the gas off and going flat side down.
.
Ah yes Oscar, the old KISS principle, I'm with you!
JATZ
18th September 2008, 20:21
I carry this 10 x 40 x 365mm wooden slat around with me - fits under paddock stand lugs. Works well on the back wheel and is stable - probably more stable than the KLR idea using the foot peg. Haven't got a solution for the front, but am motivated to try something based on a walking cane..
There was an article in Two Wheels a couple of months back about a stainless steel turnbuckle with foot. Looked neat, but my slat works for me.
I have a Kathmandu bicycle pump that fits under the bike seat. Fine for adjusting tyre pressure (e.g. going from gravel to seal) and would work (slowly) to fix a flat.
Cheers
That looks mine kind of stand, i.e. dirt cheap.
BTW how do you find the EO-8's, just swaped the Kenda trailmaster on the rear of the DR for one of them, got a front to go on tommorow.
Swaped tyres in about 1/2 hour start to finish,
Pirelli on the front was dead easy too,when I installed it. I could get it most of the way on by hand.
TKC 80's the only tire I've had any trouble with,just about ruined a tube getting it on.
Frodo
19th September 2008, 06:45
BTW how do you find the EO-8's, just swaped the Kenda trailmaster on the rear of the DR for one of them, got a front to go on tommorow.
Most of my riding is currently commuting on SH1 into Wellington, in heavy traffic often in rain and wind. So I wanted a road-oriented tyre. They're good for that purpose, although not quite as confident in the wet as Anakees I put on my previous bike. They are slightly more aggressive (especially the front) so should be better in gravel. I've been in gravel twice with them and found them more skittery than the Anakees, but I need to play around with pressures (the Anakees were much better in gravel in the low 20s psi). I've heard that reversing the front tyre helps.
I expect wear to be good.
E-08s are about half the price of Anakees and as I do high miles, price talked.
Note that there have been problems with tread blocks cracking on rear E-08s, so I'll keep an eye on mine.
Cheers
cobber
19th September 2008, 07:22
Yep the DR rear is a bit of a bitch and I'm waiting to see what the desert rear on the XTZ will be like before attempting to make a bead breaker. Side stand of another bike (put the bike onto the side stand with the stand foot on the other bikes tyre) apparently works but never had the opportunity to try it.
Cheers R
The rear of the dr is right mongrel to break the bead on I am up to tyre change number 18 on the rear of my dr and have always had to use the bead breaker on the tyre machine at work to get it. Once i managed it with a length of 4x2 under a fence but it invovled a bit of swearing, looking forward to the easy, side of the road answers coming in here. this is the most difficult rim I have come across in 40yrs of riding
NordieBoy
19th September 2008, 08:14
Use soap not glue.
Simple.
I've never had a problem with mine.
I've never actually changed my tyres though but it can't be any harder than on the mountain bike can it?
Crisis management
19th September 2008, 08:19
I've only changed three or four tyres on a DR rear but apart from the Pirrelli MT21 have not had a problem breaking the bead.
The last puncture repair on the roadside took 30 minutes, admitedly there were two of us doing the job.
I use two tyre levers, no lube and some gentlemanly swearing, seems to work quite well. ;)
Bass
19th September 2008, 08:23
I'll go with bits of the scenery or simply turning the gas off and going flat side down.
I would too, except for the big tank that I have fitted. As is typical with the safari tanks on a DR, there is a bit of a problem getting the last 5 (or so) liters out because of the relative heights of the tank and the carb. We solved this by putting a non-return valve on the breather so that we can simply blow into the tank and slightly pressurise it when it gets low.
However, for some reason, the blasted valve refuses to seal when the bike is on its side and it pisses fuel everywhere.
A small container of dishwashing liquid is always a good idea.
Often wondered about this. Thanks
NordieBoy
19th September 2008, 09:11
I use two tyre levers, no lube and some gentlemanly swearing, seems to work quite well. ;)
Kinky.
So is it the lack of lube or the swearing that heats the bead up and makes it easier to get on?
xwhatsit
19th September 2008, 09:40
Is there a particular reason adv bikes don't have centre stands? I would've thought if there was an essential application, this would be it. Raise rear just with the stand normally, or put something heavy on the back seat and take the front wheel off. I can't stand not having a centre stand on a roadbike, but if I had to do tyre changes in the middle of nowhere...?
Is it just because the ground clearance is so high?
Bass
19th September 2008, 09:46
Kinky.
So is it the lack of lube or the swearing that heats the bead up and makes it easier to get on?
Rubber actually shrinks when it's heated - so this could be the reason for the struggle.
warewolf
19th September 2008, 10:30
Is there a particular reason adv bikes don't have centre stands?
...
Is it just because the ground clearance is so high?No, and No. The 640A probably has the best ground clearance in the class, and comes standard with a centre stand.
Bass
19th September 2008, 10:35
Is there a particular reason adv bikes don't have centre stands? I would've thought if there was an essential application, this would be it. Raise rear just with the stand normally, or put something heavy on the back seat and take the front wheel off. I can't stand not having a centre stand on a roadbike, but if I had to do tyre changes in the middle of nowhere...?
Is it just because the ground clearance is so high?
I'm pretty sure some of them DO have centre stands - just not the economy models.
I guess it could be something else to get hooked up in the scenery though.
warewolf
19th September 2008, 10:36
A small container of dishwashing liquid is always a good idea.I've changed from dishwash to glass cleaner, as dishwash supposedly tends to linger and exacerbate the problem of tyres spinning on the rim. Glass cleaner evaporates away better.
ie, use your visor/goggles lens cleaner. Dual-function, always A Good Thing when travelling light. And your tyre bead will never fog again! :crazy:
ducatijim
19th September 2008, 17:27
Is there a particular reason adv bikes don't have centre stands? I would've thought if there was an essential application, this would be it. Raise rear just with the stand normally, or put something heavy on the back seat and take the front wheel off. I can't stand not having a centre stand on a roadbike, but if I had to do tyre changes in the middle of nowhere...?
Is it just because the ground clearance is so high?
Quality 'man sized' real adv bikes do come with center stands as standard, as their manufacturers realise this is a very important part of an adv bike, they seem to be able to fit them without it seems any hanging down/sticking out catch in the scenery type issues!
God save us from Japan....no...no, too late, save us from the rest of Asia?:doh:
Oscar
19th September 2008, 20:12
I've changed from dishwash to glass cleaner, as dishwash supposedly tends to linger and exacerbate the problem of tyres spinning on the rim. Glass cleaner evaporates away better.
ie, use your visor/goggles lens cleaner. Dual-function, always A Good Thing when travelling light. And your tyre bead will never fog again! :crazy:
THe last guy I saw changing a tyre was using shaving foam.
I didn't get around to asking why...
Underground
19th September 2008, 20:20
Anyone tried using KY or does it just slip off the rim when it gets wet ?
warewolf
19th September 2008, 20:24
We still talking about tyres??
cobber
19th September 2008, 21:07
I carry this 10 x 40 x 365mm wooden slat around with me - fits under paddock stand lugs. Works well on the back wheel and is stable - probably more stable than the KLR idea using the foot peg. Haven't got a solution for the front, but am motivated to try something based on a walking cane..
There was an article in Two Wheels a couple of months back about a stainless steel turnbuckle with foot. Looked neat, but my slat works for me.
I have a Kathmandu bicycle pump that fits under the bike seat. Fine for adjusting tyre pressure (e.g. going from gravel to seal) and would work (slowly) to fix a flat.
Cheers
I have welded a piece onto the front side[ with stand down] of the stand pivot area and drilled a 8mm hole thru it and the stand mount [frame], slip a 8mm pin thru to lock the stand down then with the handle bars on full right lock tie your tow rope around r/h bar and pull bike back up onto stand with front wheel off the ground , tie your rope around convenient post tree or power pole [might struggle to find these in Otago] . For rear tie onto r/h grab rail and pull towards left front on to stand to lift rear wheel off ground , tie rope off again in forward diagonal . Your wooden slat or alloy props would
probably work just as well.
Bass
20th September 2008, 08:00
Quality 'man sized' real adv bikes do come with center stands as standard, as their manufacturers realise this is a very important part of an adv bike :
Nah! It's cos they realise that their product is gonna be mostly bought by softies who can't manage without one.
Google 950, 990 or GS to see what I mean.
ducatijim
20th September 2008, 08:53
Nah! It's cos they realise that their product is gonna be mostly bought by softies who can't manage without one.
Google 950, 990 or GS to see what I mean.
I don't recall seeing YOU manage without 1 while in Oz actually.
cobber
21st September 2008, 06:57
I don't recall seeing YOU manage without 1 while in Oz actually.
if you really want a centre stand on your Dr650 have a look at Twistedthrottle.com in the Suzuki section .A german outfit called sw-motec make a good looking centre stand that just bolts on,itwould piece of cake to make one if thats what you want and could be bothered . but is necesary if your riding with mates.
talbertnz
21st September 2008, 08:14
Anyone tried using KY or does it just slip off the rim when it gets wet ?
WARNING! may have a gentle warming sensation on contact!
ducatijim
21st September 2008, 08:49
if you really want a centre stand on your Dr650 have a look at Twistedthrottle.com in the Suzuki section .A german outfit called sw-motec make a good looking centre stand that just bolts on,itwould piece of cake to make one if thats what you want and could be bothered . but is necesary if your riding with mates.
Sorry chum, I guess you don't know me or the history I speak of!
A wee bike like a dr does not warrant a center stand really as almost anything you may have in ur kit, or may find in the nearby scenery, will surffice to aid getting a leg up when needed!
Now, if you need to lift a leg on a 250kg bmr, well then that is going to be a differant matter altogeather isan't it? Hey,......guess wot?.......a center stand might be the go................................................ .......................
Bass
21st September 2008, 09:08
I don't recall seeing YOU manage without 1 while in Oz actually.
Well that's only cos I had "staff" along and didn't have to keep tearing bits off either end of my DR anyway.:clap:
Just to get this totally off topic, you do realise don't you, that the very fact that you replied, concedes that there is a point to argue?
Since you seem to have your calculator handy, what does a DR weigh wet, with a 35 litre full tank on the front and 50 odd kg of luggage and fuel on the back?
I make it around 235 kg.
So what you are saying in effect is that the difference between having a centre stand or not is about 15 kg.
Pffffft! Like I said - softie.
Oh and if we are into Oz recollections, who was it needed help to pick his bike up pretty much every time he dropped it?
The real bugger is that I actually agree that a centre stand on the big fellas is a good idea. Damn!!
ducatijim
21st September 2008, 17:02
Well that's only cos I had "staff" along and didn't have to keep tearing bits off either end of my DR anyway.:clap:
Just to get this totally off topic, you do realise don't you, that the very fact that you replied, concedes that there is a point to argue?
Since you seem to have your calculator handy, what does a DR weigh wet, with a 35 litre full tank on the front and 50 odd kg of luggage and fuel on the back?
I make it around 235 kg.
So what you are saying in effect is that the difference between having a centre stand or not is about 15 kg.
Pffffft! Like I said - softie.
Oh and if we are into Oz recollections, who was it needed help to pick his bike up pretty much every time he dropped it?
The real bugger is that I actually agree that a centre stand on the big fellas is a good idea. Damn!!
Can't you add the fuel and luggage to the 250kg Bmr without a calculator then?
And why would I pick up my bike when I had STAFF and a HERNIA?
I don't see any point to argue....toy bikes don't need a center stand when a stick will do...........behemoth, mother suckn, tutonic battlecruisers could do with all the help they can get......hence a center stand would be useful.
Here endeth my sermon.
Bass
21st September 2008, 17:30
And why would I pick up my bike when I had STAFF and a HERNIA?
I have to admit that there is wisdom there bro
[Here endeth my sermon.
Sort of like the sermon on your mount eh?
Oooh, sorry about that - pathetic puns inc
cobber
22nd September 2008, 07:05
Can't you add the fuel and luggage to the 250kg Bmr without a calculator then?
And why would I pick up my bike when I had STAFF and a HERNIA?
I don't see any point to argue....toy bikes don't need a center stand when a stick will do...........behemoth, mother suckn, tutonic battlecruisers could do with all the help they can get......hence a center stand would be useful.
Here endeth my sermon.
Sounds like there are some good campfire stories to be had here. I did 90,000kms in queensland and northern nsw on a airhead boxer bm in the early 1980s and agree a centre stand comes in handy on those heavey buggers
ducatijim
22nd September 2008, 09:25
Sounds like there are some good campfire stories to be had here. I did 90,000kms in queensland and northern nsw on a airhead boxer bm in the early 1980s and agree a centre stand comes in handy on those heavey buggers
90000km!!! wow, RESPECT!
Can't be too much I could tell YOU about Qld then!!
Ah, yes.....a CS has got to beat chucking the bitch down then havn to bust ur gut gettn her on her feet again once ur all done !
dutchman49
24th September 2008, 10:39
The real answer here is prevention. Keep the pressure up and "she" will never let you down. I could never imagine trying to break the the bead of any rear tyre in the middle of nowhere. Our group (6) has completed nearly a million off road miles in NZ with only one puncture. The rider then just rode it to the nearest repair centre (220ks) and replaced the tube
ducatijim
24th September 2008, 10:55
The rider then just rode it to the nearest repair centre (220ks) and replaced the tube
Wow...thats sweet......just imagine the luxury of being within only 220km of a 'repair center' when you find ur wind has all escaped!
Crisis management
24th September 2008, 11:17
The real answer here is prevention. Keep the pressure up and "she" will never let you down. I could never imagine trying to break the the bead of any rear tyre in the middle of nowhere. Our group (6) has completed nearly a million off road miles in NZ with only one puncture. The rider then just rode it to the nearest repair centre (220ks) and replaced the tube
Not my way of sorting stuff out, I prefer spending 30 minutes repairing the flat rather than the distraction of finding someone else to do it......
Each to their own.
clint640
24th September 2008, 11:48
The real answer here is prevention. Keep the pressure up and "she" will never let you down.
Yep, I've done a few miles now & only ever had 1 puncture, ages ago in a shagged rear tyre on me bro's old XT600 with who knows what pressure in it. Doesn't stop me carrying a spare tube & the gear to fit it though, trying to find a tyre shop on a Sunday in the middle of the Ureweras or somewhere can really screw up a days riding.
Seeing Neil & Jamie's hatchet stand made me think of making an adjustable sleeve that with an end that engages firmly on the frame to go on the end of my camp hatchet/hammer thing so I can prop up both the KTM & more lowly machines.
Cheers
Clint
warewolf
24th September 2008, 12:54
The real answer here is prevention. Keep the pressure up and "she" will never let you down. I could never imagine trying to break the the bead of any rear tyre in the middle of nowhere. Our group (6) has completed nearly a million off road miles in NZ with only one puncture. The rider then just rode it to the nearest repair centre (220ks) and replaced the tubeShit happens, as they say. I don't reduce pressures on my road bike, but I've still had plenty of punctures. Only one has been "on the road" away from home, but due to carrying a tubeless repair kit I was able to patch it and nurse the bike to the nearest town for a proper repair - just on midday closing on Saturday.
Out of curiosity, how flat was that tyre that was ridden 220km - completely or was it a slow leak? I would expect the time and effort required to nurse a flat tyre that kind of distance would far and away exceed that to fix it on the spot.
In my book, "prevention" of dramas includes carrying tools and knowing how to use them. In fact, simply carrying the right tools can be a big help, as it is often easier to find someone with skills to do the work, than to find the equipment.
Personally I don't understand all the fuss and bother about breaking the bead - DR650 excepted. Popping the bead back out is ten times harder, so is getting the last bit of the tyre on, and they're hardly mentioned!! Plus a hot deflated rear tyre will pretty much de-bead itself if it is ridden for too long - which is actually another method to break the bead sans tools.
trying to find a tyre shop on a Sunday in the middle of the Ureweras or somewhere can really screw up a days riding.Yep.
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