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View Full Version : TL1000S shock upgrade/replacement



ric007
10th October 2008, 17:10
Ok i've got the cash,now i'm wondering if i should bother i've replaced the spring with a factory replacement, and i know the shock is stuffed, how much difference would a wp or a ohlins actually make? HUGE? or not so.is there anybody bout cantabury who has a upgraded suspension that would let me have a "feel"? if you know what i mean. :rockon:

Robert Taylor
10th October 2008, 18:21
Ok i've got the cash,now i'm wondering if i should bother i've replaced the spring with a factory replacement, and i know the shock is stuffed, how much difference would a wp or a ohlins actually make? HUGE? or not so.is there anybody bout cantabury who has a upgraded suspension that would let me have a "feel"? if you know what i mean. :rockon:

Ohlins currently ex stock, have sold dozens of these and the difference is way better than you expect. More grip, better ride height control, MUCH more ride comfort and nearly double the tyre life. Also these are NOT emulsion shocks.

98tls
10th October 2008, 18:39
I am down the track a bit,i dont have an Ohlins (would have if i could have afforded it at the time) but have a Hagon damper unit which is without doubt way better than the dumper that was on there.If as you say you have the cash then grab an Ohlins.The other alternative would have been a Bitubo which is a Damper/spring unit combined but seems pointless after you have bought a new spring unit.

Morcs
11th October 2008, 10:13
stock suspension setup works quite well.

get some heat tape on the rear header to reduce the heat on the rotary dampener.

I would suggest giving the forks to someone like mr Taylor for new springs though, as they are rather soft - and get worse over time.

Robert Taylor
11th October 2008, 11:32
stock suspension setup works quite well.

get some heat tape on the rear header to reduce the heat on the rotary dampener.

I would suggest giving the forks to someone like mr Taylor for new springs though, as they are rather soft - and get worse over time.

Given what you have just said in the first paragraph I have to question whether you have ridden a TL1000S with that high friction rotary damper removed and replaced with a high quality aftermarket damper that actually responds!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

In deference to the very ill informed tag at the bottom of the thread one would have to say that the stock rotary damper is in fact a rip off, in fact best ripped off. Facts, rather than emotive and stirring rubbish.

Morcs
11th October 2008, 12:04
Given what you have just said in the first paragraph I have to question whether you have ridden a TL1000S with that high friction rotary damper removed and replaced with a high quality aftermarket damper that actually responds!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

In deference to the very ill informed tag at the bottom of the thread one would have to say that the stock rotary damper is in fact a rip off, in fact best ripped off. Facts, rather than emotive and stirring rubbish.

For the record, the tag wasnt me...

I used to hate the rear shock, but once is setup nice and hard, its not too much of a problem. The front end under braking became my main concern.

btw, can you pm me a sharp price for an ohlins dampener for a 03 cbr600rr :shifty:

hospitalfood
11th October 2008, 13:07
this thread reminds me of my last bike, started spending money on it, got through a few grand and thought that it still needed this and that, and the other in duplicate.

i up-graded to get what i wanted in the end, and lost the money i had spent on the previous one when i sold it. buy that time i had realized that i would not ever really love the previous bike, regardless of how much i threw at it.

dont spend on the bike you have unless you really love it IMO.

Robert Taylor
11th October 2008, 13:13
this thread reminds me of my last bike, started spending money on it, got through a few grand and thought that it still needed this and that, and the other in duplicate.

i up-graded to get what i wanted in the end, and lost the money i had spent on the previous one when i sold it. buy that time i had realized that i would not ever really love the previous bike, regardless of how much i threw at it.

dont spend on the bike you have unless you really love it IMO.

If you were keeping a bike such as the TL1000S / R ,VTR1000 etc that have terrible rear suspension youd recover the cost of a quality replacement rear shock very quickly by saving on too frequent tyre replacement. Plus your spine wouldnt trouble you so much later in life!

Robert Taylor
11th October 2008, 13:22
For the record, the tag wasnt me...

I used to hate the rear shock, but once is setup nice and hard, its not too much of a problem. The front end under braking became my main concern.

btw, can you pm me a sharp price for an ohlins dampener for a 03 cbr600rr :shifty:

Cheers for that. Whoever it was is gutless, lurking in the shadows, not telling the world who he / she is and not substaniating with sound reasoning. I am happy to provide sound reasons to someone who in turn can provide reasonable questions, as opposed to an unsubstantiated accusation.

Part ( but not all ) of the reason for front end dive on the TL is imbalance, overdamped rear end, soft fork springing, soft midvalve.

Will do re that damper.

98tls
11th October 2008, 13:27
For the record, the tag wasnt me...
Nor me fwiw.Though happy with what i have i certainly wouldnt object to receiving an Ohlins come xmas day:confused:(if any of my family are reading this):laugh:

98tls
11th October 2008, 13:48
Fwiw pics of an Ohlins,Wilbers and a hagon.

Morcs
11th October 2008, 16:31
Its quite funny though, Suzuki split the spring and the dampener to retain a short(ish) wheelbase with a long engine, yet the aftermarket guys seem to have no trouble making 'conventional' shocks fit...

98tls
11th October 2008, 18:20
The spring on the Wilbers is only a helper spring (so i am told) and you still retain the spring on a stick.The Bitubo unit by all accounts is very good and for the life of me ive never understood why Suzuki couldnt have done one.

Pussy
11th October 2008, 18:53
for the life of me ive never understood why Suzuki couldnt have done one.

Ain't that the truth! Even from new, the bushings in the spring guide seemed like they were buggered! And no two of those rotary dampers perform the same.

98tls
11th October 2008, 19:08
Ain't that the truth! Even from new, the bushings in the spring guide seemed like they were buggered! And no two of those rotary dampers perform the same. Mine performs well as a doorstop.

Squiggles
11th October 2008, 22:57
Recently converted from flogged rear (read: 85,000k's) to ohlins, very noticable difference... alot less squat and it actually absorbs bumps, not pogo sticking.

However, its made me want to perfect the front to match :pinch:

Robert Taylor
12th October 2008, 09:41
Recently converted from flogged rear (read: 85,000k's) to ohlins, very noticable difference... alot less squat and it actually absorbs bumps, not pogo sticking.

However, its made me want to perfect the front to match :pinch:

We have a cure for that as well, under $1000. !!!!

98tls
12th October 2008, 10:36
We have a cure for that as well, under $1000. !!!! What does the grand buy ya? Since sorting the Busa brakes on the TL i am now dealing with the thing trying to launch me over the bars,its diving for Africa even under mild braking.$1000 seems like a pretty good deal to me.

TLDV8
12th October 2008, 17:04
Recently converted from flogged rear (read: 85,000k's) to ohlins, very noticable difference... alot less squat and it actually absorbs bumps, not pogo sticking.

However, its made me want to perfect the front to match :pinch:

You really need to check the spring unit,the problem with it is the minimal overlap at the shaft.
That being the reason for the excess deflection even when new,once it starts to bind even the Ohlins will be affected (imo)
You also need (if you havn't already) to check the rocker for the spring unit,i also think the alignment is wrong so the rocker can wear badly at the upper outboard point (The shim will wear into the alloy until flush)
All linkage bearings need to be checked as soon as 20000kms given the minimal lubrication from the factory.
The swingarm bearings can also be increased to 25mm rollers.

<img src=http://i30.photobucket.com/albums/c345/manurewa/Sleeve.jpg>

I went to Timkens with new stock sleeves..fwiw

<img src=http://i30.photobucket.com/albums/c345/manurewa/NK30.30A.jpg>
THE TLR fork is better but as i found as far back as 2003,the TLS forks rebound needles among other things need replacing,the tolerance at the needles is excessive.
You are fairly stuck with the stock fork even with a 25mm cartridge without mods.
I would even go as far as saying dump them in favour of GSXR750 Showa's with 50mm/55mm OD legs which fit the TL triple clamps.
I have every intention of dumping the Kayaba's (2001 and 2006 GSXR1000) i have on both TL's and going for a Showa fork with either Ohlins or Traxxion internals,that is for the future when i get back to NZ.

Drastic but i ended up making a custom spring unit,the shaft was supposed to go to the US for DLC but i never got around to it.

<img src=http://i30.photobucket.com/albums/c345/manurewa/v2link.jpg>


<img src=http://i30.photobucket.com/albums/c345/manurewa/Test6.jpg>

<img src=http://i30.photobucket.com/albums/c345/manurewa/soas5.jpg>

then inverting the Ohlins to get some heat away from it.

<img src=http://i30.photobucket.com/albums/c345/manurewa/M18.jpg>

It is an old bike now but still worth spending some cash on. (the reality is something like a modern GSXR750 would be an eye opener compared to the TL,depends what floats your boat i guess.)
There are a ton of things to get the TL up to speed.

TLDV8
12th October 2008, 18:59
I forgot about this pic,yes it is a TL1000S (the black one)
At that stage the brackets were only prototypes,the R/H one in the end was machined from 30mm billet.
Got to love the TL.

<img src=http://i30.photobucket.com/albums/c345/manurewa/TLRTLS.jpg>

Robert Taylor
12th October 2008, 20:36
What does the grand buy ya? Since sorting the Busa brakes on the TL i am now dealing with the thing trying to launch me over the bars,its diving for Africa even under mild braking.$1000 seems like a pretty good deal to me.

High flow base compression pistons with a very specific preloading stack that is not available off the net as a generic spec. Revalving of the stock rebound pistons and a subtle but effective mod to the mid valve checkplate system. Linear wind springs with spacers. New seals and Ohlins wide temperature range oil. Bushings extra if flogged out. The ride height control and pitch control under brakes is much much improved, but the standout improvement is much much better compliance over nasty square edge bumps that our roads serve up regularly. That gives you much more freedom to choose the corner lines you actually want with much less preoccupation to avoid those otherwise chassis de-stabilising bumps. In fact you find yourself aiming for the bumps because they become a joy to ride over!
For the record we have done in excess of 100 sets of forks with this specific mod, including many Ohlins road and track forks. The improvement that is attained is very real.

Robert Taylor
12th October 2008, 20:46
I forgot about this pic,yes it is a TL1000S (the black one)
At that stage the brackets were only prototypes,the R/H one in the end was machined from 30mm billet.
Got to love the TL.

<img src=http://i30.photobucket.com/albums/c345/manurewa/TLRTLS.jpg>

All good stuff. Given that these bikes are getting adavnced in years and distance all of the above re bushings etc makes perfect sense. And yes that oem side spring support damper is a horrible piece and fails as early as 40,000 ks for the reasons stated. I had at one stage considered making these side units but the market is now so small that its not commercially viable. Ohlins sales for dampers are now a replacement for the aging stock units. Ohlins stock of these is running out and they will not reproduce once exhausted, simply because of diminishing worldwide demand. Currently I have one in stock for TL1000S and likely wont replace it when sold.
Apples for apples or servicable bushings for servicable bushings that standard rotary damper is a nasty, horrible high friction damper that has conspired to accelerate a high frequency of tyre sales over the last decade for TL1000S / R. Customers started buying Ohlins shocks for these bikes very early into their life and long before older age / higher mileage wear issues started rearing their head. Many of these customers reported that after fitting an Ohjlins damper rear tyre life almost doubled.

Pussy
12th October 2008, 21:16
That spring guide and damper mounting plates set up is a work of art, TLDV8!
I reckon if you could produce enough of them to make it viable for you, you would have a ready market for them. That solution of yours goes a long way to remedying the Achilles heal of the TLS.
I'm bloody impressed

Robert Taylor
12th October 2008, 22:22
That spring guide and damper mounting plates set up is a work of art, TLDV8!
I reckon if you could produce enough of them to make it viable for you, you would have a ready market for them. That solution of yours goes a long way to remedying the Achilles heal of the TLS.
I'm bloody impressed

Honestly, the world market is now no longer big enough, especially given that many of these will no longer be on the road. in practice many may indeed express enthusiasm but when it comes to the crunch its a different reality.Thats the reality of business.

ric007
15th October 2008, 18:18
will the bike be confidence inspiring? will it be $1600 bucksish of woo hoo? or boo hoo?.
if i get the right advice/idea i'll do it.

Robert Taylor
15th October 2008, 20:49
will the bike be confidence inspiring? will it be $1600 bucksish of woo hoo? or boo hoo?.
if i get the right advice/idea i'll do it.

NIGHT AND DAY BETTER and its not as expensive as $1600 ( pm me ) We have a solid reputation of selling this product and on this model it makes a huge difference. Total sincerity in saying this and dozens of very happy customers attest to the improvement.

stormy1
17th October 2008, 18:49
If you were keeping a bike such as the TL1000S / R ,VTR1000 etc that have terrible rear suspension youd recover the cost of a quality replacement rear shock very quickly by saving on too frequent tyre replacement. Plus your spine wouldnt trouble you so much later in life!

Having just purchased a 2000 VTR1000 being my first bike in 25yrs (my last bike was a Honda 350/4), I am intriqued by your comment re the VTR having a terrible rear suspension. Very hard for me to judge for 1) major upgrade to my 350/4 and 2) only just getting used to the thrill of riding again and no where near bike limit.

Therefore, can you please give me an insight into the VTR rear end and options that are a must and ones nice to do.

Cheers
Dale

Robert Taylor
17th October 2008, 19:41
Having just purchased a 2000 VTR1000 being my first bike in 25yrs (my last bike was a Honda 350/4), I am intriqued by your comment re the VTR having a terrible rear suspension. Very hard for me to judge for 1) major upgrade to my 350/4 and 2) only just getting used to the thrill of riding again and no where near bike limit.

Therefore, can you please give me an insight into the VTR rear end and options that are a must and ones nice to do.

Cheers
Dale

The issues are broadly similiar to TL1000S, harsh ride, poor mechanical grip and short tyre life. You dont realise just how bad it is until you fit a shock absorber that actually works properly. PM me and I will give you some options.

pritch
18th October 2008, 13:06
In fact you find yourself aiming for the bumps because they become a joy to ride over!


Been there, :done:that :-)