Whole lotta problems

[cashomoto]

Hey nifty newzealanders, I'm a newbie from Texas. That's right, Texas. I'm Bulgarian by nationality, and have bad luck by principle. I bought a 2004 Hyosung GT250 because it was the only bike that I could afford, and my manhood could swallow (after all, half of the reason for buying a bike is because it is awesome). I've been having problems with it ever since I bought it, but that was expected. My two latest problems are going to need some advising though.

1) This is the easier fix. My rear brake just started making the most unnearving scrapping noise. I'm slightly worried, but the brake pads should not be worn down. After all I only have ~3000 km on the bike. I plan to take the brakes appart this weekend and was wondering what I should be on the look for.

2) My clutch is acting up. Changing gears is a bit harder than it is supposed to be. The clutch leaver keeps sticking, and it's not from the leaver itself. In addition at low speeds when I rev the engine hi and pop the clutch my bike sequels like a wounded pig. The clutch is a wet multi-plate as usual. Any ideas on what it is?

[Gwinch]

1) This is the easier fix. My rear brake just started making the most unnearving scrapping noise. I'm slightly worried, but the brake pads should not be worn down. After all I only have ~3000 km on the bike. I plan to take the brakes appart this weekend and was wondering what I should be on the look for.

Still entirely possible to burn through a pad in that distance (or less!) if it isn't returning properly and is rubbing against the disc constantly. Had that problem on my old Hornet, the fault was just dirty calipers so the pistons weren't moving freely. The disc was warped as a product from having extreme pressure from one side and less from the other. Wish I knew it was doing that when I purchased the machine. Dang.

[cashomoto]

Well I hope its just that. The disks is still good, although there is a small bit of groving. This may just be from normal wear, but I guess I'll find out in a few days. I mutilated the rear brake with break cleaner today in hopes that it would dislodge something, but no luck.

[TOTO]

based on ...

...when I rev the engine hi and pop the clutch my bike sequels like a wounded pig...

you've chosen the wrong bike to start your wheelie carrier.

1) you probably need new brake pads coz you have worn them from the "Wheelie contorlling" you been doin.

2) You probably have fried the cluch and a new one...

3) the Hyo is too heavy for that kinda stuff so get a honda or a kawaka instead - they will last longer.


P.S. Dobre Doshul vav KB ludnicata (Wellcome to the Madhouse)

[cashomoto]

Althought I will admit I have done a few wheelies, I can't control them and haven't tried anything serious. Plus, the few times I have I haven't even touched the brakes, so I doubt that's what did it. As for the clutch, you may very well be right, but lets hope not. I would expect even a Hyosung to stand up to half a dozen clutch pops.

[R6_kid]

First mistake was buying a Hyosung. I suggest matches and kerosene to solve the problem.

Clutch should not be screwed after 3000kms... did you buy it new or second hand?

Also the brake 'squeaking' could possibly suggest metal on metal - and in 3,000kms that would suggest that the fluid level in your rear brake master cylinder is too high. It needs an air gap to allow for fluid expansion so the brake fluid can expand as it heats without applying the pressure onto the brake piston.


Otherwise, do you rest your foot on the peg, or with pressure on the rear brake lever. This would lead to much faster than normal rear brake pad wear, and also account for your clutch being screwed from pulling high load when it shouldn't have been.

[cashomoto]

I just found a thread on a GT250R which had the same problem. Maybe its a Hyosung design flaw? The folks never answered his questions though.

http://www.kiwibiker.co.nz/forums/showthread.php?p=1689781

[cashomoto]

Humm. Interesting point. I don't make it a habit to cover the rear break, but who knows maybe I have been. The sound is more of a scrape rather than a squeal, so metal on metal seems reasonable. How exactly do I rectify the air gap problem if I do have and air gap problem? And one more thing, if I have whacked the clutch what do I do about it? How do I know which parts are bad? And yes I did buy it second hand. The bike only had 150km on it so I doubt the fellow could have done much damage. He had left the bike with gas in the tank for quite a while and couldn't get it to start. He sold it to me for $1200. Some carb cleaner, patience, and reasearch solved that problem.

[TOTO]

You could alse get it to a Hyosung or Kawasaki and get it serviced...just a taught

[cashomoto]

You could alse get it to a Hyosung or Kawasaki and get it serviced...just a taught

Yeah, but that would negate the point of having a crappy starter bike I can work on and to be afraid to mess something up majorly. Because even If I do, I've lost a maximum of $1K, which is pretty bad, but not as bad as $6k.

[CookMySock]

No the brakes squeal like that normally. It gets better - just ride it. Its most noticeable when you wheel it around - does it a lot less or not at all when you are riding it. If iy makes you feel better, check the cylinders over to see if they are free. Possibly there is a small stone stuck in a caliper too.

Sounds to me like the clutch cable is stuffed. Some people have had a clutch cable fail. Disconnect it at both ends and see it moves freely.

As for the engine screech, I would say that is probably a product of the above fault, but anyway you should probably quit mistreating a little learner bike like that. Wait until you get a larger bike and cane that.

HTH
Steve

[vgcspares]

Has anyone actually offered to help you take a look at it yet ?

[vgcspares]

oops what I should of said :
I've been messing about with bikes all my life and can pretty much work out a solution to something new which comes along without help. I figure what you need is a friend/mentor just to make sure you don't do anything which ends up costing a bundle or causing a crash ... and obviously they need to live within reach (College Stn TX)

[PirateJafa]

Yeah, but that would negate the point of having a crappy starter bike I can work on and to be afraid to mess something up majorly. Because even If I do, I've lost a maximum of $1K, which is pretty bad, but not as bad as $6k.

Considering you got the bike in presumably mint cosmetic condition (only 150km) for just $1,200, you could easily part it out for over $2k if you did root the engine.

There's no way you'll lose money on this.

[slimjim]

yup would start by stripping and cleaning brake gear..it is not to hard..pay attention while tearing it down..also may go to another brand of pads too...as this can assit with noise drag...as above pull off cable and a good bucket with clean kero is a good way to wash out cable..and if you have a small amount of clean oil and a roasting dish...lol..warm oil in oven...warm only to hand temp and then soak cable in this til well oiled...change motor oil and filter...may be oil is fucked in motor or a lower grade... update anyhow..nothing better than knowen your bike alright..good on ya..

[cashomoto]

Ok guys, thanks for all the help. I'll take the brakes and clutch cable apart on Sunday and see what happens. I don't know if I'll be able to look at the clutch on the same day though. It's a major job and I don't know if I can finish it all in one day. The bike is my main transport, so not having it for a while can be a real pain. Plus, I'm waiting on some oil filters from hyosung that I ordered 2 months ago :Oi: , and if I look at the clutch, new oil goes in. I replaced the oil just 2000km ago, so it'd be a waste to change it 3 times in 3000km. I'll keep you posted.

[cashomoto]

Ok guys, sorry I took so long, but I tore apart the brakes and saw that the pads were completely gone. That is kinda wierd cuz again 3000km. I replaced them and meanwhile discovered that the break fluid hadn't been changes since the bike rolled out of the store. The pistons had a bit of rust on them, so i sanded them down with ultra fine paper and cleaned out the calipers as well. The breaks seem to be fine now, but, if the pads go out again, I'm not going to know what to do. I'm hoping that the pads gave out due to the pistons not retracting (a.k.a. the rust). Meanwhile I realized that my drive chain needed adjusting. I thigtened my chain up and cleaned it ect., which seem to help the cluch problem. Any new ideas?

[HungusMaximist]

Yea you might want to change the oil and grease the cable nipples.
I had my 03 GT250 clutch cable snap while I was going up a hill.

3000 km for a set of rear pads isn't surprising, it's all down to with how you ride and how often you check your brake pads. Just make it a routine and it should be fine.

I haven't had too much problem with mine, dropped it a few times apart from moving it around (naked sure take good hidings) and often had my rear tyre spin out on wet roads (shitty tyres ), apart from that she was cheap to run but some whart nasty.