RF900 owners - opinions (of bike) required

[cs363]

Looking at getting a hack (for want of another word) bike to keep the mileage down on other toys, but want something that's capable of relaxed cruising long(ish) distances at moderate(ish, lol) speeds.

Have been offered an RF900 at a very good price, overall it seems reasonably tidy only downside appears to be high mileage, though given the attractive pricing thats not a major issue.

I'd be very interested to hear from others that own one of these or have owned one previously - things to look for, any major problems (especially on higher mileage bikes) etc.

Thanks in advance.

[riffer]

(dredging up one of my old posts)

I paid $4750 for a 95 with 45,000 miles on the clock. 20 months later it's now done 76,000 miles (125,000 kms).

I've found it to be pretty hard on front tyres - it tends to triangulate them, but its got a front-heavy bias so not unexpected. Avon Viper fronts don't last long but the grip is great. I recommend Avon Storm front and rear.

The lack of a fuel gauge is a pain - especially with a reserve that lasts a good 80-90 kms. I get 300kms before it hits reserve and the tank holds 21.5 litres from empty. A real nana might get 400 kms from a tank.

Big problems with the carbs around the 100,000 kms mark. Pay attention to the needle jets and the emulsion tubes they run in - its a problem with Mikuni downdraught carbies - friction as the jet needle slides and it wears the needles and emulsion tubes. I've replaced mine with the carbs from the 135HP MantaRay model, and run a K&N air filter, ignition advance and debaffled exhaust and it flies.

There's a known problem with the alternator cush drive - in some of the earlier models (94, 95) the drive for the alternator failed and they replaced a part to stop it snapping - unfortunately this part only lasts about 20,000 kms so needs to be checked often - and its a prick to get at too. See here (http://www.kiwibiker.co.nz/forums/showthread.php?t=57135&highlight=alternator) on this site for complete instructions on how to fix it.

Don't leave it lying around in the rain because it won't run on four cylinders afterwards. It's a problem with the water either getting into the coils or the low-tension leads just behind the headstock. My solution is to smear Vaseline into the low tension connections as they exit the wiring loom and as they enter the coils. My RF doesn't have any problems starting after sitting in the pouring rain all day. Others have had problems with the spark plug boots but not me, so I'm hesitant to say its an RF problem.

The brakes are non-standard for a Suzuki (Nissin - normally found on Hondas) but they will take the Tokicos from the Hayabusa which apparently is a mod worth doing.

The whole bottom end (with the exception of the clutch) is straight out of the GSXR1100 so its bulletproof. Others overseas have commented on the hardening on 2nd gear going and causing problems but concensus of opinion seems to be that wheeliing the bike while preloading second ain't good for it.

The RF has a steel perimeter frame so in the unlikely event of a bent frame at least it is actually fixable, unlike an alloy frame.

Most RFs have about 125 at the crank, but you can get a lot, lot more. To meet American emission standards they did the same trick as on the gixxers - look for the pink wire just under the battery on the gear lever side - more midrange power in 3rd gear if you undo it. You can drill and remount the digital pickup as they will easily take another 4 or 5 degrees of advance. Also, putting in the cams from the 92 GSXR750 will help liberate even more power. With these two mods and a rejet you could get 160HP.

Good for 265km/hr on a good day. Best kept secret in motorcycling..

Mine has just hit 125,000 and although cosmetically it could do with a bit of work, mechanically it's perfectly sound. If I had to fault it I need to strip, clean and lube the front brakes and I'd like to put some heftier front springs in as the ride is pretty harsh at the front end with all the preload I've whacked on to it to stop the forks from sagging.

Here's some articles and poster (http://www.kiwibiker.co.nz/forums/showthread.php?t=23993&highlight=rf900)s elsewhere on the site.

[cs363]

Thanks riffer that's very helpful, just the kind of input I was hoping for - particularly as I'm going to see the bike tomorrow.
The one I'm looking at is a '94 with over 90,000km so am I correct in thinking that this may have either the original alternator drive or the updated one, depending on whether previous owners struck problems with that item?
Or are they not interchangeable?
(I'm assuming from the way your post is worded that it was a running change in later models, so not necessarily retrofitted)

[riffer]

94 definitely has the original. No worries there.

The dreaded emulsion tube problem will reveal itself as a bit of a hiccup when winding the throttle on from idle, between about 2 - 4,000 rpms.

[riffer]

I could also add that they slide down the road at 70kms an hour with minimal damage to them as well LOL.

[cs363]

94 definitely has the original. No worries there.

The dreaded emulsion tube problem will reveal itself as a bit of a hiccup when winding the throttle on from idle, between about 2 - 4,000 rpms.


Cool, that's a comfort! I've already got one bike that supposedly suffers from alternator drive issues, not that I've experienced any (touch wood)!
Regarding the emusion tube/needle issue, I'd already been informed about that particular issue and how common it is, but it's always good to have it confirmed by an actual owner

[cs363]

I could also add that they slide down the road at 70kms an hour with minimal damage to them as well LOL.

Given it's intended use as a hack bike then that's not bad to know either! lol :)

[blossomsowner]

Looking at getting a hack (for want of another word) bike to keep the mileage down on other toys, but want something that's capable of relaxed cruising long(ish) distances at moderate(ish, lol) speeds.

Have been offered an RF900 at a very good price, overall it seems reasonably tidy only downside appears to be high mileage, though given the attractive pricing thats not a major issue.

I'd be very interested to hear from others that own one of these or have owned one previously - things to look for, any major problems (especially on higher mileage bikes) etc.

Thanks in advance.

riffer has answered pretty well i think.................I also give them the thumbs up, great for cruising on at any speed you like and will get round corners well too if you are that way inclined.........

[cs363]

riffer has answered pretty well i think.................I also give them the thumbs up, great for cruising on at any speed you like and will get round corners well too if you are that way inclined.........

Thanks for your input - much appreciated :)
It's sounding like I'm going to have to own this bike (especially for the money they want for it!) as long as everything checks out OK.

[emaN]

mine's got a bit over 100k on it too, still good enough to have loads of fun on at trackdays! :shifty:

re front tyres 'triangulating'; heavier springs up front have helped curb this for me. i also run 'sports' rubber on front now - with a more 'rounded' profile it gives a lovely controlled tip-in feel.

not sure what cams mine has in it; there's no original Suzuki markings on them. perhaps this helps explain her 'poke'...

i've not had issues with water&electrics.

re brakes, they're good enough to make yer forks 'twist n shout'; i've got Earl braided hoses & sintered metal pads on mine. i've heard of the mods, but can't see the point unless you brace your forks.

we toured europe & the UK on ours and it was great for it - never missed a beat!

[cs363]

mine's got a bit over 100k on it too, still good enough to have loads of fun on at trackdays! :shifty:

re front tyres 'triangulating'; heavier springs up front have helped curb this for me. i also run 'sports' rubber on front now - with a more 'rounded' profile it gives a lovely controlled tip-in feel.

not sure what cams mine has in it; there's no original Suzuki markings on them. perhaps this helps explain her 'poke'...

i've not had issues with water&electrics.

re brakes, they're good enough to make yer forks 'twist n shout'; i've got Earl braided hoses & sintered metal pads on mine. i've heard of the mods, but can't see the point unless you brace your forks.

we toured europe & the UK on ours and it was great for it - never missed a beat!


Sweet - more positive info, thanks!
Well just got the call from the delivery dude.....he's about 20 mins away so I'd better shoot off and check this beastie out. will report back later :)

[Blossom]

The lack of a fuel gauge is a pain - especially with a reserve that lasts a good 80-90 kms. I get 300kms before it hits reserve and the tank holds 21.5 litres from empty. A real nana might get 400 kms from a tank.



hmmm... I am sure blossomsowner has never got that sort of mileage out of his rf900.. Its something he is looking into atm. It just seems to be a bit heavy on the fuel. Good to know what it's capable of.

[MSTRS]

Not having owned one, but did have GSXR1100L...the RF900 shares the same bottom end and gearbox as the oil cooled 1100 of early 90s. Solid, reliable, can be good for 200,000kms. Just about the perfect sport tourer. Only thing that lets them down is the 5 speed g/box.

[FROSTY]

Ive owned a few of these beasties.
Riffer pretty well covered off most of what I would tell ya.
One thing I'd add --Given the chance gear it down about 2 teeth in the rear.
I think top speed is overrated but by gosh it gives the old girl so much more punch at normallish speeds
Also If you can afford it the higher bars from F1 engineering make for a less wrist strained ride

[emaN]

re gearing, i dropped a tooth on front, helped heaps at Taupo!
bit more zippy on the road too.
revs a bit higher at 'touring' speeds, but i don't do much of that anymore, so... (wouldn't take long to put original sprocket back on anyhow)

[ManDownUnder]

Re the RF - do it. So long as it's straight (i.e. no accident damage) and nothing about to explode - the engines are awesome, the power smooth and very forgiving, good one up - even better two up.

In short - that's a big yes from me. I changed from the RF to VTR (which I found at an astounding price) and I'm not sure I made the right decision. The RF's a VERY hard to beat as an all rounder offering the ocassional does of serious fun too.

[cs363]

Well.....I now have the bike in my posession with no money changing hands (most excellent!) but the price I've negotiated is a real steal I believe. I guess I'll have to fork out eventually, but seeing as the owner of the shop I got it from and I go back a fair way there's no panic on that front which is a nice way to be.
It's a bit rough around the edges but nothing a bit of TLC won't cure, just needs warrant and rego but a cursory check hasn't revealed any problems that should prevent it getting a WOF besides a blown indicator bulb.
Really impressed with how the bike feels and performs given the mileage (just under 95,000km) I was expecting to feel a tad on the baggy side but far from it - if I'd ridden it blindfolded (don't try this at home) i would have guessed 35-45,000 km tops!
Thanks heaps for all the very helpful input people, it really is greatly appreciated especially at such short notice.

Looks like I've got a project for the rest of the weekend, pick the bike up from work and pull the bodywork off and start the clean up/list of fixes process....better go and buy a few beers methinks :D

[riffer]

Excellent stuff. :2thumbsup

I'm looking forward to the pics. To be quite honest, as long as the clutch and camchain are okay, they'll last a good 200,000 kms before needing a birthday.

An oilchange and a retightened and oiled chain will make a huge difference to the gear changing, if its a bit hard to change.

[cs363]

Well here's a quick pic, taken this evening but the light was going so it flatters the bike a bit.
Indicator turned out to be stuffed - the bottom of the bulb holder was so corroded most of it is missing! :rolleyes:

[FJRider]

Well here's a quick pic, taken this evening but the light was going so it flatters the bike a bit.
Indicator turned out to be stuffed - the bottom of the bulb holder was so corroded most of it is missing! :rolleyes:

It is a Suzuki... seriously though (yes I CAN be...) the RF900 is an under rated bike by those that have never owned/ridden one.

[cs363]

It is a Suzuki... seriously though (yes I CAN be...) the RF900 is an under rated bike by those that have never owned/ridden one.


Yes I know....it wasn't quite what I was looking for to start with, but it's not in too bad a nick and I couldn't turn the deal down. So far I'm pleasantly surprised, it's a lot better than I expected. Having got it at a bit of a deal I'm fully expecting to have to buy a few bits and pieces to get it right, that's par for the course.

[FJRider]

A few in Dunedin are selling for six grand...
I didn't think you'ld be dissappointed...

[Blackbird]

Here's a nice sketch of an RF900 that I've had on the 'pooter for years - no idea where it originally came from, but might be of interest to owners.

[blossomsowner]

Yes I know....it wasn't quite what I was looking for to start with, but it's not in too bad a nick and I couldn't turn the deal down. So far I'm pleasantly surprised, it's a lot better than I expected. Having got it at a bit of a deal I'm fully expecting to have to buy a few bits and pieces to get it right, that's par for the course.

i think as time goes on you will be more impressed.....they are hard to fault once set up right........have a play with suspension etc to get the feel you want.

enjoy........

always plenty of mods you can do if that way inclined too.........

[vifferman]

I'd like to put some heftier front springs in as the ride is pretty harsh at the front end with all the preload I've whacked on to it to stop the forks from sagging.
That's an easy enough thing to do (and not expensive either).
I upgraded my front fork springs by ordering some new ones on-line from Sonic Springs (http://www.sonicsprings.com). Their prices (US79.95, and freight's surprisingly cheap) and service are excellent, and the product is good. Just watch out for their spring calculator - it's biased towards track use, so go a bit lighter than they recommend (say 0.95 or even 0.90 kg/mm if it recommends 1.00).

[cs363]

i think as time goes on you will be more impressed.....they are hard to fault once set up right........have a play with suspension etc to get the feel you want.

enjoy........

always plenty of mods you can do if that way inclined too.........


It's surprising how many people say good things about these bikes when prompted, doesn't seem to be the sort of bike that people rave on about normally but as soon as you happen to mention that you just got one, straight away you get the 'they're a good old bus, very underrated' dialogue... :)

Once I've finished with the basic TLC - lots and lots of cleaning (don't think this bike had a garage in its previous life), fixing lots of little things, bit of paint here and there, oil & filter change, coolant change etc. Then I'm going to rebuild the forks with Race Tech springs and Gold Valves and throw a second hand Ohlins in the back of it.
What mods are there for these? Just basic stuff rather than anything full on.

[JimO]

a mate of mine bought a new one for around 9k

[riffer]

What mods are there for these? Just basic stuff rather than anything full on.


Well doing the suspension is a major boost.

Try these too:
K&N SU-9094 Air Filter.
Freeflow pipe I think you already have one of these though).
Go up a size or two in the main jets if you do this though.

[cs363]

It already has the K&N (:)) but a standard Suzuki 4-1. I don't really want a loud bike so will probably stick with that. I recall seeing somewhere that there was a wire that you could cut/disconnect that did something to the power (maybe in lower gears?) but I might have confused that with another bike or different market model....not sure :blink:

[Pussy]

What spec is it, cs363? It can make quite a difference in power

[cs363]

What spec is it, cs363? It can make quite a difference in power


It's a '94 RR model I believe.... :)

[Pussy]

It's a '94 RR model I believe.... :)

Okay, but wondering what market bike it is. You got it at work? I'll probably have a chance this week to have a look, the wx looks a bit poxy!

[cs363]

Okay, but wondering what market bike it is. You got it at work? I'll probably have a chance this week to have a look, the wx looks a bit poxy!

OK, with you know.... :beer: it's a Japanese import. And it's not at work... yet. :)

[riffer]

OK, I'll try and help here.

There's about three different specs (actually there's about 11 but I can't be arsed going to the gargre to get the service manual to list them all).

US, 50 state & Canadian. 125HP 190MPH & 300KPH speedo.
US Canadian (with all the emmissions stuff). 110HP
European, Australian & original NZ spec. 135HP. 300KPH speedo

The 135HP models can only really be confirmed by lifting the seat. On the gear level side is a label with a whole load of type on it. This will also state the ignition timing on it.

If it says 4 degrees BTDC its 125HP.
If it says 7 degrees BTDC its 135HP.

I have no idea what the specs on the Japanese domestic model are. They have a 180km/hr speedo (shit you can do that in 2nd on mine) so I hope they aren't limited to 77HP.

[cs363]

OK, I'll try and help here.

There's about three different specs (actually there's about 11 but I can't be arsed going to the gargre to get the service manual to list them all).

US, 50 state & Canadian. 125HP 190MPH & 300KPH speedo.
US Canadian (with all the emmissions stuff). 110HP
European, Australian & original NZ spec. 135HP. 300KPH speedo

The 135HP models can only really be confirmed by lifting the seat. On the gear level side is a label with a whole load of type on it. This will also state the ignition timing on it.

If it says 4 degrees BTDC its 125HP.
If it says 7 degrees BTDC its 135HP.

I have no idea what the specs on the Japanese domestic model are. They have a 180km/hr speedo (shit you can do that in 2nd on mine) so I hope they aren't limited to 77HP.


Hmmm...ok, now I'm confused - thought it was an import as it had a sticker in front of the fuel filler that was in Japanese. BUT the speedo is a 300km/h one...


Just checked the rego details and it says Japanese import, but lists power at 101Kw which by my calculation is 135hp :confused:

[Pussy]

I had an E02 (UK Spec) RF900. That was the full power model... even the cams had higher lift than the US/Canadian models. The "NZ new" ones were actually E24( Aussie spec) bikes.
I've got a factory service manual, or can get my hands on it, which will help identify what spec it is

[riffer]

Hmmm...ok, now I'm confused - thought it was an import as it had a sticker in front of the fuel filler that was in Japanese. BUT the speedo is a 300km/h one...


Just checked the rego details and it says Japanese import, but lists power at 101Kw which by my calculation is 135hp :confused:

Yeah, my rego says 101Kw as well. But it's a 125HP model.

[cs363]

Yeah, my ego says 101Kw as well. But it's a 125HP model.


Yeah I would tend to agree, rego papers aren't the most reliable source of info! Pussy is going to check out the ID plate and will reveal all...... maybe... lol