DR650 farkling - anyone with bits to sell?

[Aslan]

hi - as a recent recruit to the DR 650 fan club I'm interested if anyone has a Clarke, IMS or what have you larger tank they're wanting to quit. Also interested in aftermarket pipe (Staintune, Cycleworks etc). An engine protection bash plate would also be of interest.

Please PM if you have any of the above to sell - thanks Aslan

[NordieBoy]

Got a half finished bash plate here. Give me $50 and I'll ship it to an ummm... signpost near you.

[Crisis management]

My suggestion would be do the tank and a B&B bashplate but leave the exhaust and carb alone, the lose of fuel economy / exposure to water & dust ingress, is not (IMHO) offset by great leaps in real performance.

Iain

[NordieBoy]

My suggestion would be do the tank and a B&B bashplate but leave the exhaust and carb alone, the lose of fuel economy / exposure to water & dust ingress, is not (IMHO) offset by great leaps in real performance.

Iain

I'd remove the snorkle and raise the needle 1.5-2mm just to get the A/F in the right place.

[ducatijim]

My suggestion would be do the tank and a B&B bashplate but leave the exhaust and carb alone, the lose of fuel economy / exposure to water & dust ingress, is not (IMHO) offset by great leaps in real performance.

Iain
BIG +1 Iain. If you want to be a 'real' adventurer, leave the exh/carbie shit alone....unless it is still important to act like a 'sprotsbike' owner!

Those things will do NOTHING of ANY use to an adventure rider.

Concentrate on; bashplate/barkbustas/pedal snakes/tank size/ SUSPENSION( the DR's achilles heel)/Don't remove snorkel...you will DROWN in a real river/remove all unnecessary electrical shit like clutch-in/stand down etc switches = USELESS; LIABILITIES/ a real good seat is nice for transport stages/real good tyres( Michelin T63 have done me WELL)/enduro mirrors....stop me when you have had enough!

(...or buy a KTM640 ADV and get it all stock!:Oi:

Jamie

[Aslan]

I think I'll be going the bashplate, tyres and possibly larger tank route - cheers to all for your responses.

Fran aka Nordie Boy I'll reach you off line for a natter about your bash plate.

Ciao Aslan :bye:

[NordieBoy]

BIG +1 Iain. If you want to be a 'real' adventurer, leave the exh/carbie shit alone....unless it is still important to act like a 'sprotsbike' owner!

Those things will do NOTHING of ANY use to an adventure rider.

More torque down low and mid range is no use?

Does NZ have any "real" rivers left?

[ducatijim]

More torque down low and mid range is no use?

Does NZ have any "real" rivers left?


Torque is just fine for a 650 thanks Fran.

I did forget thou:

Alloy bars/ and a selection of c/s sprockets. ( you see, Suzuki in their infinite wisdom, stuffed up the gear quantities and spacings on this bike; you really need either another gear for 1st or a 6th,....so, take a 13 and a 15 c/s sprocket, remove all the stock shit in the way of acessing the c/s, throw away the stupid 3 bolt loc plate and just use a double 21mm circlip setup to allow 3 minute sprocket changes anywhere. Now you can zip along the hiways and byways with gay abandon,(15t) then easily and quickly change c/s to give you a useable 1st gear(13t) when the going gets a little harder!!

We nearly have a 'perfect' bike now!:niceone:

[Aslan]

thanks all for sharing your wisdom gained from practical experience.

I can see one can spend a lot fettling these machines to get them personalised.

cheers Aslan

[ducatijim]

I can see one can spend a lot fettling these machines to get them personalised.

cheers Aslan

Oh yes, I figure I spent close to the cost of a Kt640( if you could buy 1 ) by the time I had done all the necessaries to the old DR, and at the end of the day......its still an old DR with only 5 gears!

I personally still am unsure of the wisdom of this course:whocares:

But....when all said and done, they are pretty bulletproof and very easy for a dumb cowcocky to maintain....so how bad can that be eh?

Jamie

[GaZBur]

I agree with these guys but from a different perspective though. Hot bits on a DR for adventure riding could be a step backwards. How often do you need more power than you currently get from full throttle already? I have got somewhere between 5% - 10% more power than standard but have probably lost 15%-20% in fuel economy. Doesn't bother me coz I only need to get up to 10 laps from a tank but would bother me if it was over 180km between gas stations with the standard tank.
Spend the money on adventure rides instead - the add-on bits are bloody dear for what you get out of them.
Also when reasonably standard you can bounce them off the rev limiter all day and they are still indistructable - I know I have done it most weekends for the last two years and not broken or worn out anything enginewise yet.
Enjoy your DR - everybody who has one seems to love em!

[hospitalfood]

hi all dr650 riders/fans.
a mate of mine just bought a new one, we just went for a ride this morning.
he will be 80% road riding it, motard kind of angle.

be great to have info to give him on all aspects of the dr650.
as in :-
range ?
red line rpm and availability/ease of fitting a tacho ?
aftermarket performance parts ?
pros and cons of ?
etc, etc, etc ?
anything at all would be great.
either pm me or post here if you are willing to help.

big thanks.

[GaZBur]

hi all dr650 riders/fans.
a mate of mine just bought a new one, ...be great to have info to give him on all aspects of the dr650....
Welcome.
First out take a stroll though NordieBoys thread as he and the other DR experts have heaps of good info. There is an old thread I used to put some race stuff up on about my DR http://www.kiwibiker.co.nz/forums/showthread.php?t=50896&page=3
If you spend most of the time on road i really reccomend 2 sets of wheels. I have a set of 17 inch mag rims which combined with just winding up the rear spring and dropping the rear spring to its lower mounting point turns it into a bike that can go around the average sportsbike rider on most corners. That way I keep proper knobblies on the other rims so don't need to have compromise tyres. If you are considering the wheel conversion PM me as there are a few pitfalls to avoid, unless you already know a good engineer.

[Aslan]

I agree with these guys but from a different perspective though. Hot bits on a DR for adventure riding could be a step backwards. How often do you need more power than you currently get from full throttle already? I have got somewhere between 5% - 10% more power than standard but have probably lost 15%-20% in fuel economy. Doesn't bother me coz I only need to get up to 10 laps from a tank but would bother me if it was over 180km between gas stations with the standard tank.
Spend the money on adventure rides instead - the add-on bits are bloody dear for what you get out of them.
Also when reasonably standard you can bounce them off the rev limiter all day and they are still indistructable - I know I have done it most weekends for the last two years and not broken or worn out anything enginewise yet.
Enjoy your DR - everybody who has one seems to love em!

Cheers for the helpful comments Gazbur - whilst lurking in threads abt DR's I've noted your escapades / achievements with interest. I think on the basis of all the advice I'll be leaving my DR stock save for the bash guard, appte 50/50 orientation tyres. thanks and regards Aslan

[marks]

Hi

If the DR is intended to go where sane people (this excludes BusaJim) wouldn't take and 1150 then I wonder if 50/50 tires are enough.

I would have thought 80/20 tires like Dunlop 606's would maximize your chances of staying vertical in the knarlier adventure rides while still being acceptable for non sporty transport stages?

cheers

Mark

[NordieBoy]

I agree with these guys but from a different perspective though. Hot bits on a DR for adventure riding could be a step backwards. How often do you need more power than you currently get from full throttle already? I have got somewhere between 5% - 10% more power than standard but have probably lost 15%-20% in fuel economy.

Those that have installed and fettled the FCR or TM carbs are reporting better fuel economy than from the stock carb...

Something to think about :D

I want more and smoother power from quarter to half throttle. I'd only get up to 5,500rpm on a spirited ride.

[marks]

I want more and smoother power from quarter to half throttle.

buy a klr:bleh:

[NordieBoy]

buy a klr:bleh:

And nick the throttle cable! Of course! Why didn't I think of that!

:apint:

[Crisis management]

Just an idle thought Marks.....could you possibly train the dribble of oil from your oil filter cover back to act as lubrication for the drive chain? Would save on that expensive Scott oiler fluid.

Anyway, theres a topic in here somewhere, I was a having a bit of a think of what I would do if starting over and this is it, from front to back:

15w fork oil.
Set sag correctly (packers to preload springs?)
Sintered brake pads.
TKC80 or MT21
Aftermarket bars.
30mm bar risers.
Bark busters or zeta equivalent.
Remove clutch interlock (unplugs behind headlight).
Fit a small clock.
Small fairing.
IMS tank.
Sheepskin on seat (or repad if you want to but nothing flash).
Remove sidestand interlock (cut the wire IIRC)
Weld on larger foot to sidestand.
Set rear sag correctly.
TKC80 or MT21
Final drive 15t to 46t with 14t sprocket for slow stuff.

Carb stuff...I wasn't convinced the exhaust, Dynojet kit and open airbox were worthwhile, I enjoyed the power but not the noise & fuel consumption.
Fran has done far more on this and should be listened too, there is a reasonable middle ground in there.

Most of this stuff is $5 stuff and takes sod all time but transformed the bike for me.

Enjoy!

[Bass]

Steve,
As Jamie has mentioned, we spent a fair bit of coin on our DR's getting organised for Oz.
The important changes for me and in order of importance were (and Jamie may have a different list): -

1. Seat
2. Suspension
3. Tyres
4. Tank

To my mind, these were the essentials. All the rest of what we did was prudent (and I would do them all again) but as things turned out, we could probably have got through without doing. The clutch may not have survived the 15 t front sprocket however.

For NZ use, the big tank is convenient but not essential, especially if you don't play around with the motor/carby/exhaust. Conversely, depending on what you plan to do, a bash plate probably is a really good idea (your intentions on the 42 come to mind here). My skill levels are modest at best and so for me the bottom end to mid range power delivery is just fine.

You will note that suspension is at #2. You are welcome to point my bike at some uphill corrugations immediately after doing them on yours if you want to find out why.

[Rosie]

If aesthetics aren't a strong consideration, I can recommend trying some DIY seat improvements.

I hacked the sherpa's seat with an electric breadknife, adhered a couple of new layers of foam on, and hacked some more. Then stapled on some vinyl from Spotlight.

Very comfy, and a wee bit less daggy than a sheepskin. :first:

My breadknife is available for hire, in exchange for beer :apint:

[NordieBoy]

My order would be...


14t front sprocket
Bashplate
Springs front and rear
Seat (modified or aftermarket)


The rest of the mods can be done at your leisure.

[marks]

Just an idle thought Marks.....could you possibly train the dribble of oil from your oil filter cover back to act as lubrication for the drive chain? Would save on that expensive Scott oiler fluid.

The leak stopped on the last ride - I think it may have burnt all the oil :confused:

[Aslan]

Hi

If the DR is intended to go where sane people (this excludes BusaJim) wouldn't take and 1150 then I wonder if 50/50 tires are enough.

I would have thought 80/20 tires like Dunlop 606's would maximize your chances of staying vertical in the knarlier adventure rides while still being acceptable for non sporty transport stages?

cheers

Mark

Hi Mark - cheers for you comment - I have had good experiences with D606 on the rear of my DR350. On the front of that I had a TCK80 - seemed a good combination and one a may repeat on the 650. S

[Aslan]

Steve,
As Jamie has mentioned, we spent a fair bit of coin on our DR's getting organised for Oz.
The important changes for me and in order of importance were (and Jamie may have a different list): -

1. Seat
2. Suspension
3. Tyres
4. Tank

To my mind, these were the essentials. All the rest of what we did was prudent (and I would do them all again) but as things turned out, we could probably have got through without doing. The clutch may not have survived the 15 t front sprocket however.

For NZ use, the big tank is convenient but not essential, especially if you don't play around with the motor/carby/exhaust. Conversely, depending on what you plan to do, a bash plate probably is a really good idea (your intentions on the 42 come to mind here). My skill levels are modest at best and so for me the bottom end to mid range power delivery is just fine.

You will note that suspension is at #2. You are welcome to point my bike at some uphill corrugations immediately after doing them on yours if you want to find out why.

Hi Neil and all others who've generously contributed - seems there so much acquired wisdom in this thread (from others not moi) it warrants a sticky - useful stuff here for anyone contemplating mods to their DR. Cheers everyone - Stephen O

[Kaituna]

Hi Mark - cheers for you comment - I have had good experiences with D606 on the rear of my DR350. On the front of that I had a TCK80 - seemed a good combination and one a may repeat on the 650. S

I Really like D606 tires. Massive grip on gravel and in the mud, and surprisingly grippy on the seal when warmed up. I can honestly say that I can ride as hard on the seal on these as I used to when I used to have a GSXR750. I even enjoy intentionally drifting the back wheel out on the seal but especially on the gravel. Just don't last long, but who gives a shit. Give some little bugger a job in a third world country making my tires. See, I am contributing to job opportunities and employment and doing my bit for the poor people.

[dutchman49]

I did the full works on my "06 DR. Only regret was changing pipe which caused jet changes, K&N filter and a very expensive IMS tank. Lots more mid range power, noise, fuel consumption. Can get 300kms from the IMS. Got seat modified locally. Have tried many different tyres but now stay with IRC 110s. Great on the road and gravel. useless in the mud. But very cheap. ran out of graduations on my speedo once.