Log in

View Full Version : Hyosung servicing



DarkLord
5th November 2008, 11:00
Hi all,

My GT250R has done about 30,000 k's or so. Still seems to be in good shape, and is well looked after. I just had the chain and sprockets replaced a couple of weeks ago and I am constantly cleaning the bike and oiling the chain, but I am thinking it is due for a service. Oil and filter were both done about 6,000 k's ago, I can easily do that myself but I am thinking more about the wear and tear on the engine etc that may need some attention.

Can anyone tell me what sort of work I should need done after that many k's and also where a good place to get it done would be? I live on the North Shore in Auckland, by the way.

Thanks heaps

Graham.

slimjim
5th November 2008, 11:12
sound's like you're keeping in tip top condition...keep changeing oil and filter...with good oil...and can change more offen if you want.i change oil every 4000km's cause thats what i can do,filter every second change...not alot can go wrong if you care for your machine...and if its sounds noisey...easyer to have this checked out by shop..

disenfranchised
5th November 2008, 12:36
The shop I go to has a valve clearance check every 12,000K's on my Hyosung.

DarkLord
5th November 2008, 14:00
which shop is that, disenfranchised?

disenfranchised
5th November 2008, 21:56
which shop is that, disenfranchised?

That's Red Baron...where I bought the bike.
Apparently Hyosung recommends that valve clearance check after just 4000k's.
The guys at red baron used to do it every 8000, but after selling and maintaining quite a few with no problems, they've opted to increase the check interval up again.

I'm not mechanically minded....so I'm not entirely sure what it involves.

Eng_dave
6th November 2008, 07:52
Yeah but the baron costs $400 for a 1st class service, and that was on the naked version, So no fairing to get in the way. Looking for a place for my GT250 to get a health check.

TOTO
6th November 2008, 10:48
What I was doing on my Hyo - change oil and filter every 5000k, given that the filter only costs 8bux from cycletreads, and only takes an extra 2 minutes to do. and service it every 10 000km at the dealer by doing everything they had specified for that milage excluding oil and filtr. That way The bike was in pristine condition and the servicing didnt cost too much too. Taking the fairings off when you take it to the service saves you another 30 bux or so coz you get charged for an extra 15 min of labour.

DarkLord
6th November 2008, 11:20
True, so you just tell the shop you've just recently done the oil and filter and just ask them to leave it off the service?

Sounds like a good idea, I may just do that!

Rev DJ
6th November 2008, 11:41
I provide a list of what "I" want checked every time I get my bike serviced. I base my list on the recommended Hyo service schedule. That way I can ask "have you done this..." etc...

You shouldnt be paying much more than $200 for the regular 4k service incl. oil/filter etc... and you are paying for the "service" so feel free to query what was done, what did they find/observe, any issues...

If your bike is at 30K the next scheduled service would be a 32k check-up including head-strip down and decoke, valve re-shimming. Cheers DJ

DarkLord
6th November 2008, 18:49
Thanks guys, I'm thinking I will just drop it into Spectrum and get them to do the works on it.

I'm especially concerned about the front brakes, I seem to hear some kind of a grinding noise whenever I put them on really hard. Does anyone else get this?

CookMySock
7th November 2008, 08:26
I'm especially concerned about the front brakes, I seem to hear some kind of a grinding noise whenever I put them on really hard. Does anyone else get this?Yup. I just wear earplugs and the noise goes away.

Steve

DarkLord
7th November 2008, 09:26
Haha, I wish it were that easy! Could be a bit costly in the long run!

I got my front brakes and discs checked out by cycletreads this morning, the discs were slightly worn but the pads were absolutely cooked, they changed them and it is now much better, problem solved. They told me I caught it just in time and that if I had left it any longer I could have seriously damaged my discs, which for the Hyosung are $400 each.

The bike had done 19,000 k's when I got it in May and it's now done 30,000 so the pads were long overdue for a change and I had been putting it off for far too long.

I also picked up some engine oil and a filter so I'm going to do my own service on the bike tonight.

What have I learned from all this? Make sure you change your brake pads regularly!!!!!!!

rphenix
7th November 2008, 12:24
which for the Hyosung are $400 each.

Can get them from Richard Jordan for about $200 NZD + shipping although its likely more than that now with the shitty exchange rate.

As for the pads I changed the disc ones pretty quickly on my bike from the OEM to sintered for $40 hardly an expensive exercise.

CookMySock
7th November 2008, 16:20
Can get them from Richard Jordan for about $200 NZD + shipping although its likely more than that now with the shitty exchange rate.Thats if you can get a reply from him. I've been trying for a week.

edit: trying his yahoo address, gmail one is borked.

Steve

disenfranchised
9th November 2008, 22:41
Yeah but the baron costs $400 for a 1st class service, and that was on the naked version, So no fairing to get in the way. Looking for a place for my GT250 to get a health check.

I've done my 1, 4, 8 and 12 thousand K services all with them, and it's never come close to $400.
About $150 for their C service...4000k check: oil; filter; basics etc
I think it was $250-$300 for the 8000k one...which was the B service, where they checked the valve clearances.

I think I might never have had an A service....not sure what else it would cover.
There's a checksheet, but I'm not sure what all the items really mean.

Dodger
10th November 2008, 09:39
My 2006 GT250 has been serviced every 4000k's by TSS(redbaron) in LH. (now on 29000ks)

Due to cost, I'm thinking from no on I'll just take it in every 10000ks and just do the basic oil change myself every 4000ks :)

DarkLord
10th November 2008, 10:24
Do they do much to the bike after it's done that many K's, dodger? is there much that needs replacing?

The guy at Spectrum thinks that the Hyosungs are pretty reliable in regards to engine components and as long as you keep up to date with the oil and filter changes and keep an eye on the chain and brake pads, you won't really need to do much to it at all.

Dodger
10th November 2008, 11:53
So far I've had the following replaced at services.

Both Tires (rear at 15k, front at 28k)
Chain and sprocket (20k-ish)
Pads front and back.

gw555 (http://www.kiwibiker.co.nz/forums/member.php?u=10202) is the true expert as he's over the 60k mark now and his bike is only a month older than mine.

I also had a few bits replaced in the first 5000ks that were covered under warranty.

gw555
10th November 2008, 12:05
Dodger not sure about the expert bit BUT I have clocked 77000 this morning

gw555
10th November 2008, 12:27
Okay I have had mine serviced 20 times now and only 3 times has it been over $400.00 (excluding tyres). All serviced by TSS in Lower Hutt

The main things are the valve clearances which have been checked every 12000 and been adjusted once

I should add the only reason for the >400 was things like new chain and sprockets, plugs and pads all put in at same time.

DarkLord
10th November 2008, 12:44
Good to hear. My valves could probably do with a clearance now as well as mine's done about 30,000 k's.

What exactly is a valve clearance? (Noob question I know but hey you don't ask you never know) Does this take long to do and I don't suppose it's a DIY type job?

CookMySock
10th November 2008, 16:10
What exactly is a valve clearance? (Noob question I know but hey you don't ask you never know) Does this take long to do and I don't suppose it's a DIY type job?Its not really a DIY job, unless the covers are easy to get at and remove, and the clearances are just a simple screwdriver and ring spanner job. I've never seen the lid off a hyo motor so I dont know. I might pull my cover off sometime just for a nosey. edit: The GT650R has shims and no adjusters, so unless you have a good selection of shims and lots of time and experience, its a workshop job.

There is a rotating actuator above each valve and these require a tweak now and then to make sure they are close to tolerance. The valves will make a tick-tick-ticker noise if one is a a little loose, and they will leak and damage themselves if one is a bit tight.

Steve

gw555
10th November 2008, 16:14
It is the inlet and exhaust valves. No its not a DIY job (although somebody will disagree) When mine were done and the exhaust reshimmed it made up most of the $414.00 bill that I got (about $250.00 looking at the invoice) The bike had done 48000 when this was done

DarkLord
10th November 2008, 16:23
Thanks GW,

Was that the first time you had it done? I'm thinking the longer I can put it off for the better as I just had to replace the front brake pads as well as spend $$$ on an oil and filter change.

disenfranchised
10th November 2008, 16:37
So far I've had the following replaced at services.

Both Tires (rear at 15k, front at 28k)
Chain and sprocket (20k-ish)
Pads front and back.


20k for chains and sprockets!!
Bugger...I got told mine needed replacing after 8k. (by Red Baron during a warrant)
Ended up going to Cycletreads, who said nah...just do the chain.

I thought 8k seemed like it was a bit to quick, but then I was a n00b who probably hadn't been taking care of things properly.
Oh and Red Baron wanted to replace them with original hyosung parts too...which seemed very expensive, and were probably not the greatest quality

tri boy
10th November 2008, 16:51
Hyosungs use under bucket shims. Cam shafts out to swap to the right thickness.
Cam timing can easily be set incorrectly, as the tensioners need to be backed off, and the chain can skip one or two teeth on the cranksprocket.
Checking the clearance is quite straight forward, but it pays to have someone there who knows a bit about this stuff.
Leave the shim exchange to the pro's. (you won't have the shims anyway, and shops charge for exchange, and if you choose the wrong thickness you will have to pull the cams again, and ducks fly backwards in spring, and fish breath through..................
ya get the picture?
oh,clearances are IN 0.004-0.008", and EX 0.008-0.012". (I will let you convert to metric).:yes:

gw555
10th November 2008, 18:40
Thanks GW,

Was that the first time you had it done? I'm thinking the longer I can put it off for the better as I just had to replace the front brake pads as well as spend $$$ on an oil and filter change.

If it was me I think I would get them checked nice and expensive if something goes wrong.

If the clearances are okay I was charged around $100.00 for checking them

Mine have been checked every 12000km so by the time they were reshimmed they had been checked 4 times

DarkLord
10th November 2008, 19:15
If it was me I think I would get them checked nice and expensive if something goes wrong.

If the clearances are okay I was charged around $100.00 for checking them

Mine have been checked every 12000km so by the time they were reshimmed they had been checked 4 times

Thanks GW,

Anybody know anywhere in Auckland that does valve clearances and how much I'd be looking at?

Dodger
10th November 2008, 20:30
20k for chains and sprockets!!
Bugger...I got told mine needed replacing after 8k. (by Red Baron during a warrant)

I did have a chain replaced at 5k under warrenty, as it was faulty from day one. (felt a tapping on the left foot peg at times)
The replacement lasted me untill around the 20k mark (maybe 23k), and was replaced at my second WOF.

Dodger
10th November 2008, 20:36
Dodger not sure about the expert bit BUT I have clocked 77000 this morning

Nice! :eek:

I'll be at 32000 by the time I return from the Burt Rally in Invercargill in a few weeks, but doubt I will ever catch up with your milage, although my last 15000 or so has been ridden 2-up :msn-wink:

rphenix
12th November 2008, 11:46
Thats if you can get a reply from him. I've been trying for a week.

edit: trying his yahoo address, gmail one is borked.

Steve

I've done two orders and both times had replies in under 24 hours to his yahoo.

rphenix
12th November 2008, 11:49
20k for chains and sprockets!!
Bugger...I got told mine needed replacing after 8k. (by Red Baron during a warrant)
Ended up going to Cycletreads, who said nah...just do the chain.

I thought 8k seemed like it was a bit to quick, but then I was a n00b who probably hadn't been taking care of things properly.
Oh and Red Baron wanted to replace them with original hyosung parts too...which seemed very expensive, and were probably not the greatest quality

I could understand wanting to replace both the chain and the sprockets at the same time to replace the OEM stuff with something quality but if replacing like for like then general rule would be 2 chain's to every set of sprockets.

DarkLord
12th November 2008, 14:57
I got my chain and sprockets done about 28,000 k's or so. Sprockets were still ok I think but the chain was pretty hammered.

I usually do the oil filter every time I change the oil as well, seeing as it's only 8 bucks I figure it's worth it as it takes no time to install.

chaos rider
18th December 2008, 11:47
met a women with a yellow hyo did 10000k in 6 months she invested in a chain auto oiler and cleaner there around 200 300 bucks and work wonders

tri boy
18th December 2008, 17:27
A bit of a "heads up" for the 250 riders.
Some aftermarket front sprockets do not have the correct offset to keep the chain aligned properly, but more important, they are fractionally too wide, and do not let the locking tab locate properly on the counter shaft, (sprocket shaft).

THIS IS DANGEROUS

The rear is okay to replace with after market, but ask for a genuine Hyosung front sprocket, or get the retailer to confirm that there is NO issue regarding the lock tab.
If this fails, the retaining nut may come loose, and send the sprocket and chain into the alternator cover.
Have your sprocket checked.

DarkLord
2nd March 2009, 09:50
Hey everyone

Just another question - how do you know when a bike is due to have the valve clearances checked? Is there any kind of indication/warning, e.g. rattling or anything?

Also I have a bolt on the front sprocket cover where the edges have been rounded off, and as such I do not know how to get it out. Could anyone help me out with that?

Much appreciated everyone!

rphenix
2nd March 2009, 15:52
Hey everyone

Just another question - how do you know when a bike is due to have the valve clearances checked? Is there any kind of indication/warning, e.g. rattling or anything?

Also I have a bolt on the front sprocket cover where the edges have been rounded off, and as such I do not know how to get it out. Could anyone help me out with that?

Much appreciated everyone!

If you hear the engine rattling its probably valve clearances :) Generally every 10 or so thousand K's they do need adjusting maybe a bit earlier the first time.

Regarding the bolt is it ceased? or how did you round it? If its ceased bath it in crc a few times with a hour or so in between for it to sink in. Then use an impact driver (if there is anything for the driver to grab onto) if not then you can look at using a dremel (die grinder). If your feeling lucky a grinder (depends on your disks and if they are thin enough) or possibly a hacksaw can do it to cut a groove into it for the impact driver. Grinder/hacksaw is fine on farm equipment but I highly recommend you buy a dremel (http://www.halfdone.com/SOTW/MegamanBay/Dremel_cutter.jpg) or go to the local mitre 10 mega to see if they have something similar for a drill attachment.

As a last resort you can use a tap and die set + drill if your unlucky enough to shear the bolt head off.

If you don't have a impact driver I recommend getting one they aren't overly expensive and every man needs one!

rphenix
2nd March 2009, 16:10
Another good trick is a blowtorch to remove bolts but the hyo has too much plastic around the motor I think for that sort of treatment.