My little dilemma...

[Pierce]

Received my front forks back from Greg at Pro Ride suspension yesterday which is mint. I was bolting on the front brake caliper when the bolt snapped off while tightening it... Now I have the end of a bolt stuck in there that I can't get out.

How would you resolve this? :bash: Any help would be greatly appreciated

Oh and I was doing it to the specified torque setting listed in the manual:angry2:

[Danger]

Just drill the bolt out through the center with increasing size drill bits, you might find that it actually winds its way out. You might be able to drill it from behind which makes the chances of it coming out even better. Otherwise you may need to use an ez out.
That bolt must of been over tightened at some stage or your torque wrench is out.

[Waihou Thumper]

Received my front forks back from Greg at Pro Ride suspension yesterday which is mint. I was bolting on the front brake caliper when the bolt snapped off while tightening it... Now I have the end of a bolt stuck in there that I can't get out.

How would you resolve this? :bash: Any help would be greatly appreciated

Oh and I was doing it to the specified torque setting listed in the manual:angry2:

Try a little groove on the head with a hacksaw, then use a screwdriver or try and create a groove using a hammer and screwdriver.
Easy out, should do it as you can get big ones for bolts. I had something similar happen and ended up doing just that and getting a jewellers screwdriver, banging it in and unscrewing it.....
Same principle but on a smaller scale, this was a Fork Bleeder Valve that snapped off....
Good luck!

[Pierce]

Torque wrentch is near new so i would hope its not out. My guess is the bolt has been weakened by over tightening by someone in the past. Will have a blast today... bloody pissed me off, there is always something that goes wrong Grrrrr

[mattwood]

yeah, just tap a screwdriver into it gently and screw it out. It worked for me when i snapped my sump plug off :argh:

good luck

[Danger]

Make sure you are reading it correctly ie not confusing ft/lbs with nm/kg. The best ones to use IMO are the simple cheap wrenches with the direct read off the dial. They don't go out of calibration and last for ever.

Do you want to bring it around for me to have a go at it?

[Pierce]

Make sure you are reading it correctly ie not confusing ft/lbs with nm/kg. The best ones to use IMO are the simple cheap wrenches with the direct read off the dial. They don't go out of calibration and last for ever.

Yeah i think it cost me round $250. I always use it in lbs as it's easier to get the right setting on there.

[Danger]

You might not have seem my edit, so if you want to bring it around for me to have a go at let me know.

[Pierce]

You might not have seem my edit, so if you want to bring it around for me to have a go at let me know.

Ah you'rea top man Greg. will give it a whirl and if no luck call you. I appreciate it

[Danger]

Good man for giving it a go! Start with a small drill bit, make sure its right in the center and drill straight all the way through the bolt. Then go up a few sizes. Once you have a pilot hole any drill bit that might grab the bolt might just wind it out for you. Hopefully you didn't use locktite? If so as you go up in sizes you could try pouring a jug of boiling water over it which will soften the locktite. You don't want to go so big in drill bits so that you drill out the threaded portion of the caliper so be careful but in my experience the bolt will usually come out pretty easy before getting that far.

[Reckless]

You could use an ezyout which is the correct tool for the job.
I think I got my CK set from Bunnings. Not top quality but handy to have around.

Shouldn't be to hard as you've just had it out and they only do up to about 10-12 Ft-lbs I think??? Guessing thats what Danger will use??

[Danger]

I've used ez outs before when I first left school and was a mechanic in a shop but since then I've never had to use one due to most bolts coming out with drilling or just not snapping any over my life time. You still need to drill a hole. So I don't have any here but they can be gotten easy enough if drilling doesn't work. Waitemata Hydraulics and Engineering would have them for an 8mm bolt.

[Reckless]

Yeh either way is ok whatever works I guess. i'm sure you'll fix it quick enough for him.
And your right you still have to drill it first.
Just didn't know if Pierce new about the Ezyout alternative.
LOL! As you can see I've broken the ones he needs anyway.:Oops:

[barty5]

Ah you'rea top man Greg. will give it a whirl and if no luck call you. I appreciate it

Where in auckland are you i have a workshop in newmarket normally here late if you want to call in with it.
5245571

[Pierce]

Where in auckland are you i have a workshop in newmarket normally here late if you want to call in with it.
5245571

I'm in elerslie / Mt wellington area Barty5, what's your name? Not sure if you go by your username at work haha

[barty5]

I'm in elerslie / Mt wellington area Barty5, what's your name? Not sure if you go by your username at work haha

nick name is bart but ask for aaron if its not me that answers

[cheese]

Yeah I was walking around asking for Barty the first time I went there.

[Pierce]

Hi bart I won't be coming into the workshop mate. Greg gave me a hand and we got it out. Thanks heaps for the offer there tho mate

[barty5]

Sweet as glad yah got it sorted

[Reckless]

Hi bart I won't be coming into the workshop mate. Greg gave me a hand and we got it out. Thanks heaps for the offer there tho mate


Good Man that Greg fella!!:mellow:

[The Stranger]

You could use an ezyout which is the correct tool for the job.
I think I got my CK set from Bunnings. Not top quality but handy to have around.


Personally, I always make an ezyout the last resort and never use a cheap one.
It's a fricken pain if you snap the easyout in the bolt.
Of course you results may vary.

[Reckless]

Personally, I always make an ezyout the last resort and never use a cheap one.
It's a fricken pain if you snap the easyout in the bolt.
Of course you results may vary.

Yeh mate I hear ya there! Been there!
Its bloody hard to try and drill the ezyout out?
Its all about feel and pressure isn't it.
You have to decide if its so tight in there drilling and re tapping is better than the ezyout? Tough call sometimes?

[theblacksmith]

As Greg mentioned earlier - the secret to success with this is drilling bang on central.There are also 2 types of ezy-outs -the tapered left hand spiral type (which I hate cos theyre crap- they put too much outward force on the broken stud in my opinion) and the square type with special cutting edges on corners (Blue Point and Snap On etc).
Other factors need to be considered such as corrossion, bolt bent in hole etc.If the bolt is gonna turn then ezy-out can be the best option.However in my experience I have had to drill and re-tap the threaded hole.I used to curse people that brought me stuff like this and they've drilled their own hole off centre or they've simply mutilated the whole thing.I have in the past also had to build up a weld on the bolt very carefully and then weld a nut on,-let it cool and use the nut to screw it out.If heat is an issue-Wurth or Strata Welding supply a heat shield paste(silica mud/clay) which can be used to cover and protect parts.
A friend of mine once snapped a cylinder head bolt on a Daihatsu 2.8 diesel motor - all other 9 bolts were tightened to their final stage. I inserted a 2.5mm welding electrode down the hole and struck an arc.I then had my friend turn off the welder at power source which caused the electrode to stick to the broken bolt(about 3 secs after striking the arc) and we were able to unscrew the head bolt out of the hole(which was about 90mm deep) and replace it with another one without having to undo the other bolts and hence saving a new head gasket.Was a big gamble but it worked!The head bolt was 14mm wide I think. If any of you ever break an ezy out or tap in a hole - go find an engineering outlet who has a spark eroder or wire eroder. They can succesfully remove the hardened steel tool without damaging the hole or the thread. Hope this helps any of you.