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Reckless
15th December 2008, 17:52
I get the odd email flyer form torpedo 7 in Hamilton. Bought a few small things off them they seem pretty good.

Cheap tyres on this one http://www.torpedo7.co.nz/products/INTYXW8RE if anyone is interested!
Dunno how good Innova are but I think someone told me once they where ok!

tri boy
15th December 2008, 18:21
Supercross Cycles are doing MX tyres for approx $60 also.
Viper brand I think.

B0000M
15th December 2008, 20:16
those tyres look to be brilliant as long as you want to go sideways everywhere and generally get no drive in the foward direction

Reckless
15th December 2008, 20:24
those tyres look to be brilliant as long as you want to go sideways everywhere and generally get no drive in the foward direction

Justify your claims my man and give us all a tyre lesson! Why say you!! Tell the newbies! They think one pattern looks the same as any other!

BTW I'm not getting any, just thought some poor soul that spent all his money on his wife's xmas present may be a bit short and need some cheapies.

cheese
15th December 2008, 20:32
Hmm I think tyres are like tools. Buy once, buy right.....................

B0000M
15th December 2008, 20:35
based on my experience with tyres:

compare the michelin MH3 for example

with the one in the ad above

the mh3 you will notice has a middle knob, then 2 side knobs, then a middle knob, then 2 side knobs and so on

the cheapy you will see has a big row, then a big gap, then a big row, then a big gap and so on.

this big row of tread with no side support seems to encourage the bike to slide sideways and also by having that large wide block of rubber hitting the ground at the same time in the same plase discourages the tyre from biting into the dirt.

the other thing you will notice aboue them is the cheapies tend to offer a flat surface, while the better tyres curve around. this also means when you lean the bike over on a cheapie you will only have the very edge of the tyre on the ground, while a more rounded edged tyre will provide more tyre on the track.

all the tyres people rave about you will find generally have a tread pattern similar to the MH3, or the S12, or the Bridgestone 202 or 404



just having a close look at the super enduro of the cheapie, it appears to have a side knob about where it should be, but only seems to appear every 3 or so rows..... why would you want a knob that appears every 3 or so rows? wouldnt consistancy be a good thing?

B0000M
15th December 2008, 20:42
Hmm I think tyres are like tools. Buy once, buy right.....................

and then buy another one in a few months once you've destroyed it...

no so like tools, if you destroy your tools in a few months the tool company give you a new one

courts
15th December 2008, 20:43
agree with both boom and cheese. nothing will make even a good rider ride slower than having FA confidence in the gear that they run on. once bitten.....

2_SL0
15th December 2008, 20:54
Actually this does raise a question for me, what tyres should I look at, it was many moons ago that I purchased dirt tyres. I do a mixture, Thunder, Sandpit, wet, dry. I would like something that will last a reasonable distance if thats possible.

I don't want much do I.

B0000M
15th December 2008, 21:07
Actually this does raise a question for me, what tyres should I look at, it was many moons ago that I purchased dirt tyres. I do a mixture, Thunder, Sandpit, wet, dry. I would like something that will last a reasonable distance if thats possible.

I don't want much do I.

MH3, excellent all rounder. seems to grip in any conditions

also can be had for not a lot of money compared to some others

cheese
15th December 2008, 21:08
I wasn't meaning in those terms. I meant buy good ones and they will last longer, perform better and make you ride better.

I got some Melville Kendras once. Guy was talking them up saying they are the same as some good brand (can't remember the brand...) and anyway they were shit. I would slide out to the side all the time and it was crap. Stuck with teh main brands now. To be honnest, you probably spend on;y $40 more than the shitter and my last S12 lasted a year (and that was when I was riding more often). My MH3 is lasting really well too. I really rate the MH3's.

REDRIDER
15th December 2008, 21:15
well that just saved me from buying a shit ass tyre for myself for xmas, MH3 it is, cheers :clap: what size should my standard 03 cr250 be running on the rear, currently 110/90/19.

cheese
15th December 2008, 21:22
Just PM scott. He will sort you out.

B0000M
15th December 2008, 21:39
well that just saved me from buying a shit ass tyre for myself for xmas, MH3 it is, cheers :clap: what size should my standard 03 cr250 be running on the rear, currently 110/90/19.

yea that sounds right.

Reckless
15th December 2008, 23:15
Agree with everything you say B000M. Even the Kiwi X tyre I bought as a stop gap for my boys bike is as you describe.

I just thought if some young fella was stuck they are quite cheap.

I've got an S12 on the front of my other one and a Pirelli Mt320 on the rear not to bad. I've a mate that has a son that's a Kawasaki sponsored rider and he races a bit as well they quite like Scorpion extras, Pirrellis all ground tyre for general riding. Supposed to be one of the best lasting, still with good hook up. these here http://www.pirellityre.com/web/catalog/moto/moto_catalogo_schedaDescription.page?categoria=/catalog/moto/offRoad/mx_all_ground&vehicleType=MOTO&product_id=1968&uri=/pirellityre/en_IT/browser/xml/catalog/moto/MOTO_MV_SCORPIONMXEXTRA_OFF.xml I went in to get some but ended up with the Mt32 for some reason??

kezzafish
16th December 2008, 00:15
i've got those pirelli scorpion mid hards on at the mo, they definately got the grip but not as long lasting as Metzeller MC5s (which give the same good grip) they now have MC6s which my mate just put on and he rates them too, they're supposed to be even harder compound/wearing. All you KTM boys should be running metzelers 'cos they're german and i say so

B0000M
16th December 2008, 07:08
the scorpion extras are meant to be good, however i found the price was about $40 more than any other brand,

the metzeler as much as i used to rate them i dont think is as good as the MH3 for grip, and longetivity probably isnt as good either for me

warewolf
16th December 2008, 11:25
MH3s might be a brilliant tyre, but are MX-specific in 19". Doesn't help those of us with enduro 18" rears... ;)

In terms of ultimate performance (for race use), fresh edges on the tyres counts for a lot. Putting a cheaper new tyre on regularly may have benefits to both performance and your wallet. To that end, the likes of the Kiwi MX have been commended to me, at half the price of the euro stuff. Performance in most conditions is better than a worn euro job.

But in contrast, the S12 seems to hold its performance long into its worn state, making it good value despite the higher purchase price. I will stick with them (ha ha) for winter/mud use.

warewolf
16th December 2008, 11:28
All you KTM boys should be running metzelers 'cos they're germanWhat makes you think the Austrians like the Germans? Aren't you forgetting about a wee invasion 70 years ago? :laugh:

B0000M
16th December 2008, 11:46
MH3s might be a brilliant tyre, but are MX-specific in 19". Doesn't help those of us with enduro 18" rears... ;)



yea, this is a problem i found when it came to finding a tyre for the mrs's crf.

went with the bridgestone 202, grip is awesome, though i cant yet comment on lifespan as its only been ridden for about an hour so far with the new tyre. price was 142 fitted where i got it from which to me represents good value

takitimu
16th December 2008, 11:59
MH3s might be a brilliant tyre, but are MX-specific in 19". Doesn't help those of us with enduro 18" rears... ;)

In terms of ultimate performance (for race use), fresh edges on the tyres counts for a lot. Putting a cheaper new tyre on regularly may have benefits to both performance and your wallet. To that end, the likes of the Kiwi MX have been commended to me, at half the price of the euro stuff. Performance in most conditions is better than a worn euro job.

But in contrast, the S12 seems to hold its performance long into its worn state, making it good value despite the higher purchase price. I will stick with them (ha ha) for winter/mud use.

Fresh edges are definitely a good thing, if they keep the price @ $70 for those tires I might try one come winter, still got 2 new M40's left & a MC5 which just has the edge taken off in the garage so no panic yet.

Maybe just me, but seems an awefull lot of variables come into account with handling between suspension, tires, technique, conditions. I dunno where to point the blame, so figuring on keep the tires the same & work on the other three variables first :).

warewolf
16th December 2008, 12:08
Maybe just me, but seems an awefull lot of variables come into account with handling between suspension, tires, technique, conditions. I dunno where to point the blame, so figuring on keep the tires the same & work on the other three variables first :).I'm with you on that point. I have more experience with road tyres, where I learned that I get on well with some brands and not others. To that end, I'm leaning towards staying with Michelins for the soft-intermediate conditions (M12) this year, as a baseline for reference before I change to others.

camchain
16th December 2008, 13:29
I'm 100% with Booom re tyre pattern observations. Very suspicious of schizoprenic tread patterns as I can't see how they can produce consistent feel - and contact patch on a dirt bike tire is pretty small so it must have a significant effect.

Have noticed one of the El Cheapo brands mimics the Michelin S12 pattern but from what I've read, they don't perform anything like an S12, so pattern only part of the picture (S12 has soft/flexy case - or at least they did before they started making them in Thailand). Having said that, a cheapo tire with decent edges has more appeal to me than a worn out good quality tire. I'm going to continue to try some different brands and price brackets. Impossible to get a perfect 'one tire does all' though, especially in summer if you also ride sand (Woodhill) regularly. I too wish Michelin would expand their range with more 18" options, I like MS3 front.

Trying an MC5 on the back at the moment. Was a bit worried about how it was going to work at a slippery Paparimu as the wide knob blocks on centre probably don't allow a lot of flex of the tire case, but it seemed to work well enough as I didn't get into any trouble (ran 10psi). Pirelli Xtra (harder compound 'training' tire) impressed me as a long lasting all rounder - although it didn't seem to like the 8psi I ran at Paparimu last year. Cords came apart inside case and snake-bit the HD tube badly.

B0000M
16th December 2008, 13:42
Pirelli Xtra (harder compound 'training' tire) impressed me as a long lasting all rounder - although it didn't seem to like the 8psi I ran at Paparimu last year. Cords came apart inside case and snake-bit the HD tube badly.

that sort of info is really handy to know. cheers. the price was the part that put me off that tyre <_<

t3mp0r4ry nzr
16th December 2008, 14:44
stuff buying new tyres for getting a fresh edge, just get on the gas earlier and harder, and save your self a hundy and something ;) haha

takitimu
16th December 2008, 14:55
stuff buying new tyres for getting a fresh edge, just get on the gas earlier and harder, and save your self a hundy and something ;) haha

Depends what you are riding, completely agree for MX, but for Bush Bashing I'll take a fresh edge, makes up a little for my lack of skill :clap:

B0000M
16th December 2008, 14:56
stuff buying new tyres for getting a fresh edge, just get on the gas earlier and harder, and save your self a hundy and something ;) haha

all very well if you're not making the most of whatever traction you do have. i can tell you for racing- if your competition has grip and you dont, you can forget about beating them

camchain
17th December 2008, 09:43
A crappy worn tire can really ruin your day. Nice new tires really give you confidence to push that little bit harder for racing. Good tires work just as well on your brain as they do on your bike.

kezzafish
17th December 2008, 10:22
What makes you think the Austrians like the Germans? Aren't you forgetting about a wee invasion 70 years ago? :laugh:

ha haa, a kraut is a kraut. Cheers for all the info fellas, i know there has been a million tyre threads but this one seems to have managed to avoid dumb shit and is simply full of quantified information... i'm gonna put the MH3 on next... cheers boom

barty5
17th December 2008, 11:24
Havnt run with the MH3 as yet but have used the MS3 for the last 3-4 years and cant complain holds up real well. Used it on my cr250 and the yzf426 as well as the 450 i now have. I went for the MS3 due to all the shit wet weather we have in and around auckland and they work well even in the on harder terain prob not last as long as a MH but they holn on better when worn than so brand new tyre ive had in the past.

honda_power
17th December 2008, 12:12
for cheap tyres - shinko holeshot [muddy/wet terrain] and kenda milliville [pretty much everything] get my pick. shit, my milliville is supposed to be for soft-med terrain, iv done 3 long rides on hard, and the edge is almost perfect. id acually buy one over a Pirelli any day, esp as the kenda is $40 cheaper.

cheese
17th December 2008, 14:25
I had a kenda milliville and thought it was shit. I think that the S12 I had was twice the tyre.

B0000M
17th December 2008, 16:27
I went for the MS3 due to all the shit wet weather we have in and around auckland and they work well even in the on harder terain prob not last as long as a MH but they holn on better when worn than so brand new tyre ive had in the past.

the hard compound tyres are designed to be used on soft ground, and the soft compound tyres are meant to be used on hard ground. common misconception.

in saying that, a soft compound tyre wont last long on hard ground. so your safe bet is hard compounds all year round! - eg the MH3 or similar.

oldskool
17th December 2008, 17:22
the hard compound tyres are designed to be used on soft ground, and the soft compound tyres are meant to be used on hard ground. common misconception.

in saying that, a soft compound tyre wont last long on hard ground. so your safe bet is hard compounds all year round! - eg the MH3 or similar.

Really? Now I AM confused (but what you say makes sense), the salesboy at cycletreads advised me simply that hard compound is for clay and soft compound is for sand, seeing as the sandpit is the closest and therefore handiest track to me I opted for a medium soft....but having said that the tyre selection for a 17" rim is rather limited anyhoow so it's a moot point in the bigger scheme of things.

honda_power
17th December 2008, 17:28
I had a kenda milliville and thought it was shit. I think that the S12 I had was twice the tyre.

hmmm well each to his own i guess.

B0000M
17th December 2008, 21:57
Really? Now I AM confused (but what you say makes sense), the salesboy at cycletreads advised me simply that hard compound is for clay and soft compound is for sand, seeing as the sandpit is the closest and therefore handiest track to me I opted for a medium soft....but having said that the tyre selection for a 17" rim is rather limited anyhoow so it's a moot point in the bigger scheme of things.

the theory is that a hard compound with a sharp edge will bite into soft ground / clay / sand etc and not just mould into it or bend over, while on the hard ground the knobs will bend and flex in order to get the best possible grip on the solid ground but also wear out real fast

warewolf
18th December 2008, 09:27
Yep, soft terrain tyres have tall, narrow knobs, widely spaced, hard-ish compound. The knobs punch through the sand/mud and kinda work like a paddle.

Hard terrain tyres have short, wide knobs, narrow-spaced, soft-ish compound. Almost trying to emulate a road tyre, utilise rubber-on-surface friction more, hence the soft or sticky compound. I'm not convinced that the knobs themselves flex, would think it is the carcass. Knob flex is the death of grip and wear in sports road tyres; it is part of the reason for the semi-slick tread patterns: they create effectively very large knobs that don't bend tangentially (but would flex radially).

Additionally, these tyres are often designed for rocky conditions where a tight trials-like pattern is better than something very open. The former presents a consistent surface to the rocks, the latter is rather erratic (knob, gap, knob, gap) which is not so good. Same effect happens on the tree roots at Woodhill.

Very broad brush strokes there, but hopefully paints a useful picture. The problem with cross-country racing is that you can encounter ALL of the surfaces in one lap, needing 5 different tyres for optimum performance! :buggerd: :D