Steering damper, who's got what and are you hapy with it?

[Pierce]

As of recently I've been doing a bit more trail riding and I am pretty keen to put some money into purchasing a steering damper.

Whose using them and would you recommend one?

[Danger]

I use them on both my bikes and would not ride without one. They can be transferred to your next bike, you just might need to purchase a new fitting kit.
I use Ohlins/Scotts, very good quality, a bit better in my opinion than the Roc Stomper which I have sold a few off.
Ohlins have a nice new one out, it replaces the top steering head bearing but its super expensive, about $1300.00 to $1400.00
Roc Stomper have a basic and advanced, its worth splashing out the extra $100.00 for the advanced which doesn't dampen back to centre. About $799.00 for the basic and $899.00 for the advanced. An under bar kit is about an extra $50.00 as I recall but I wouldn't recommend raising your bars any unless your about 6' and I've never hurt myself on my dampers that sit on top of the bars.

[scott411]

i have used wer, gpr and are fitting a new Ohlins underbar one tomorrow, i think they are brillant, the GPR was definatly better than the WER, and everyone tells me the ohlins are the best

[Reckless]

OK here's the $500-00 question (or however much they are?). Tell us how they aide your riding?
Like on a road bike a damper stops a bit of head shake out of corners but mainly for high speed wobbles.
We are not often tapped out so how do they help through the trees etc?
I nearly bought a GPR one off trade me but didn't know if the $380-00 was just bling or would be help at my level? So I gave it a miss.

I imagine a lot of guys would want to know this? Do tell "OH experienced ones".

[vazza]

Yeah, I was looking at that GPR damper on trademe also, thought id get a bargain but nah haha..

[Danger]

They do what the name implys' they dampen the steering input, protect against sideways deflections and enable you to ride with a looser grip on the bars and so save energy. They work well in sand as well when traveling down a fast straight with slight ruts forming the front wheel is more likely to go where you want it to go instead of following where the last person went. When jumping they promote a straighter flight as everything pivots around the steering head. I certainly notice it when riding a bike without one.

[scott411]

They do what the name implys' they dampen the steering input, protect against sideways deflections and enable you to ride with a looser grip on the bars and so save energy. They work well in sand as well when traveling down a fast straight with slight ruts forming the front wheel is more likely to go where you want it to go instead of following where the last person went. When jumping they promote a straighter flight as everything pivots around the steering head. I certainly notice it when riding a bike without one.

what he said,

basically i use one because they stop the high speed tank slappers that occur when you are at race pace on rough tracks, i am horribly unfit so it stops me having big crashes, you can take your hand off at any speed and the bike will not tank slap,

[Danger]

Yeah good for grabbing a drink too!

[ArcherWC]

I was happy with the WER one. mounted down the bottom of the number plate so well out of the way

[ArcherWC]

If the damper is well setup, you shouldnt really notice it, untill you try to ride without it :-)

[Reckless]

Yeah, I was looking at that GPR damper on trademe also, thought id get a bargain but nah haha..

It was for a Ktm 200 as well which tempted me more!!


I certainly notice it when riding a bike without one.

Very helpful Danger!


what he said,

basically i use one because they stop the high speed tank slappers

Helpful too scott although a lot of us wouldn't get up to the high speed you guys do! Which is sorta why I gave the GPR a miss.

Thanks guys sorta new what you where going to say but have decided to ask a few "why" questions on here even if I already know the answers. Done it on two threads now as we are always taking for granted that everyone already knows what we mean? We need to somehow suck the expertise outa you guys to benefit the unKnowledgeable! That was a perfect situation. Cheers.

[warewolf]

My ktm 200 shakes it's head at triple figures or more with little provocation to none. They're in a 125 frame which is a size smaller than the 250/300s, which has its ups with turn speed but makes them flighty. Fortunately I'm conscious of what's happening and bang the throttle open to stifle the shimmy at that speed, could be na-a-asty if you weren't on the ball.

100km/h might be fast between the trees or around a mx track but is nothing on more open cross-country terrain: farm tracks, open paddocks, gravel roads, racecourse, beaches etc (or even highway if you are that way inclined) where you can hit max speed or near to it (140+ on my 200).

Steering damper would eliminate that tank-slapper shimmy off bumps, as already mentioned, plus helps stop deflection in ruts and rocks. Less deflection means less correction to the bike/bars = less energy input from the rider.

I'd buy one AFTER getting the suspension sprung & valved to my style, and maybe also (for this particular bike) after buying a triple-tree with different offset. At the moment I think a damper would mask a multitude of sins.

Is it MSC who offer three settings on return to centre: 0% damping, 50% and 100%? Can't remember the applications, might have been MX, enduro and desert racing?

[Danger]

The KTM200 really benefits from a reduced set of off set triple clamps due to their lack of trail. You are correct the light weight two stroke can be a bit flighty but all KTMs have the same geometry issues. I use 17mm on my 200, but 18mm is more common. Added trail will create stability and front tire grip.
However there are a couple of other things that you can do to add trail without a different triple clamp which will help. The '03 in particular has a very long shock with a top out spring and as mentioned in other threads you need to be careful when setting the sag on these. Anything that makes the rear higher than the front will promote head shake. And many KTM riders use forks springs that are too light in relation to the rear spring and in combination with the check plate like mid valve (or lack of mid valve) the fork tends to dive through the stroke too quickly, again reducing trail and stability.
Make sure your rear sag is correct, on the '03 push down on the swingarm and adjust the preload ring to 0-1mm preload. If the spring is the correct rate it will be good to go. However KTM's benefit from a little lowering in the rear shock and is a common mod in my workshop and this also adds trail to the geometry.
Then make sure there is a little drag on the steering bearings. With the front wheel of the ground the steering should not flop from side to side should slowly move from lock to lock.
Run the forks flush in the triple clamps.
Add a link to your chain if necessary to run the wheel right back in the swing arm. Recheck your sag after doing this modification.
Another issue with the '03s is the 3 bushing fork design and the harsh valving. This does not enable a smooth fork stroke which can absorb bumps rather than bounce around on them. Too much HS compression damping, too little LS compression damping (which also describes the '03 fork) can contribute to head shake. Too much LS rebound damping also can cause problems and because the '03 lacks in HS rebound damping and often too much LS is dialed into the fork to compensate.
There are many other things that can create head shake but those are the first things to look at on the '03 KTM. A steering damper will mask some of the issues slightly but is not really the answer to that bikes problems.
Where the steering damper really helps is with a side ways deflection from that tree root running parallel or at an angle to the bikes direction. Or that hidden tree stump or rock that you glance the side of. For head shake as commonly complained of I would look at the cause rather than trying to dampen the result.

[camchain]

I've experiencing a couple of 'interesting' higher speed head shakes on the exc200 already (so far only on decell - so Danger's 200 geometry info enlightening and revealing) Was considering an extra chain link to increase wheelbase a little but hadn't considered effect on sag. Hmm. Seems extra leverage might only exaggerate effects of already too soft spring as well?

Anyway, I started looking into dampers and my impressions from what I've gleaned so far:

1. Steering dampers are a very good thing to have and you don't have to be a pro level rider to benefit from one.

2. Some GPR owners report not being overy happy with them, but clearly a hell of a lot better than nothing at all. GPR operation a bit 'stiff' and obtrusive especially at lower speeds, not quite enough subtlety in the design? Scott - Ohlins designed(?) ones apparently much better, at least according to owners who had GPR prev and worth the extra money. The most expensive damper I found was in the KTM hard parts catalogue, $1600 - sans mount kit. Ouch. So I was watching that GPR one on TreadOnMe too.

BTW, I came across one that was adjustable via a remote thumb operated control on handlebar (hydraulic hose runs from thumb control to damper). Can't quite remember what brand name was but it's out there somewhere and obviously worth having a look. Seemed like an excellent improvement on existing designs.

Wondering if a standard new Honda one might be retro-fitted to your CR Pierce?

[scott411]

i have jsut had the boys fit the ohlins this morning, and i am planning to race the Harrisville Clubday tomorrow, ill give you a report

[warewolf]

Thanks for the excellent summary, Danger. You've probably written all that before in various threads which I have bookmarked! :msn-wink:

I certainly did fall into the trap of over-preloading the rear. Since I backed it off it has been much better.

[Ktmboy]

I've got a Roc Stompa Advanced and shit is has saved me numerous times.

The KTM (both the 200 and my current 300) two strokers are prone to head shake. I had a big bin at about 110 kph one day whilst trying to change onto reserve.

Now I could open a beer with one hand.

I find they are great in muddy rutted tracks as I'm not one to ride in other peoples foot prints. They tend to make the bike steer where you want it to go therefore there is not the tendancy for the front wheel to track into a deep rut.

Still got a meat and two veg between my legs<_< so at least I'm not hitting it on the way over the bars.

[Reckless]

Oh shit another thing to add to my must buy list!!! Does it ever end!!!

[humai]

100km/h might be fast between the trees or around a mx track but is nothing on more open cross-country terrain: farm tracks, open paddocks, gravel roads, racecourse, beaches etc (or even highway if you are that way inclined) where you can hit max speed or near to it (140+ on my 200).



140+ kmh on your 200? Where do you normally ride? Bonneville? What final drive gearing are you running?

[warewolf]

140+ kmh on your 200? Where do you normally ride? Bonneville? What final drive gearing are you running?Close... sand not salt: beach racing (800m each way), and the racecourse flat-track, 1600m oval with 450m straights. 14:44 sprockets. 45T rear might have been better, the 44 was noticeably slower than the 46 accelerating beyond 130. The bike was quicker than any of the 250Fs around me.

Open paddocks during cross-countries or trail rides will top out in the high-130s with the more usual 14:46.

[Reckless]

Hey wharewolf, Mine have got the standard 14-48 on. I want to take a little of the hit out of my sons one. I have read they are good with 46T on the rear but couldn't find any a couple of months ago. 46T should be ok as we never use 1st gear anyway. That'll also move the rear wheel back a bit as Danger suggests. Have backed of the power valve a little and am thinking of a 9oz flywheel weight. He really liked my mates new wr450 power delivery so looking at smoothing the power and making it more linear with a few mods along these lines. I'm sure the 200 delivers enough power to handle the above suggestions. If different gearing and a fly wheel weight take to much out I can always put the power valve back to full grunt or use differnet combinations of the 3 mods above. Bloody good them 2smokers aye!!!

So where did you get the 46t sprocket??

[warewolf]

Chain Gang (http://www.chaingang.com.au/shop/indexMotorbike.php?act=viewDoc&docId=11), ex-Australia, but there's an NZ agent in AKL now supposedly. Expensive but well worth the money because they last. The 44T had already done 18,000km on the 640A. I have a vague recollection of the KTM Steel 46T being unavailable.

The 46T delivers less sparkling performance over the 48T, but for my terrain is better overall because I am not topping out the gears at inopportune times.

I started with the Langston setting on the powervalve (1 turn out, about 20%) but have found with the jetting sorted (and still the 48T) it just doesn't have enough snap. So I've gone to 2 turns out, about 40%, is better. Then I went back to Langston, then changed to the 46T, then went back to about 40%...

So it looks like in summer/dry/hard conditions I like more snap, but in winter/wet/sloppy conditions the smoother Langston setting works better.

I'm also running a CEK needle (ta, Danger), will probably go to a DDK or DCK per ktmtalk fellahs, again they are more aggressive. As is, mine is comparatively predictable.

And a last gotcha: the 200 is supposed to run a 100/100 rear tyre. If you go to a 110/100 like many ppl do you are gearing up the bike by 3% (48 to 46T is 4%) plus you are raising the rear vs the front tending to cause headshake...

[Reckless]

Thanks for that mate didn't think the sprockets where readly available here??

I understand what your saying about the other stuff as well.

Been setting my power valve by the check out marks in the two discs and Dangers advice. I have the two recesses lined up at the moment if that makes sense to you. About middle of the range not quite sure how many % that is but it feels right for us. I'll google the Langston setting and see exactly what gives. I haven't had a play with the X and Y settings yet either but that will be my last port of call! Don't wanna play with compression and port timings to much by changing the base gaskets away from standard. We are not that good a riders LOL!! If I could find a 45T it would probably be OK as well. So its aussy, that's OK will have a look.

We are running the NOZ-F at the moment tuned a bit rich (fatter delivery), I do have a few other needles as well. Now I know which bikes we are keeping and selling. I'll do a bit more finer development on making the 03 how we want and a straight taper needle (CEK) is a good mod as I understand. Sorta been holding off because of the bike swaps etc now I know where we are going I'd like to get the suspenders done first so I can tune for the way it rides as it will probably be faster in completely different areas once Danger has had his hands on it. But that's on the too save up for list.

Thanks for that mate cheers!

[warewolf]

Your powervalve adjustment doesn't make sense to me. On one side there are two notches to mark the limits of the adjustment range, and the other side has a single notch to show the setting. If your notches were lining up, you'd be at one end or the other, not the middle.

The Langston setting has the adjustment notch abutting but not overlapping the lower limit notch, ie a little higher than level with the lower limit. That's about 1 turn out on the adjuster, or about 20% of the adjustment.

Otherwise, you are looking at something different to me :laugh:

What it boiled down to was that a top-level pro racer had his bike (125sx?) set up with close to the softest power delivery.

[CRF119]

My factory CRF one works pretty good i think. I have it on the hardest setting never had bad head shake even when tired!

[B0000M]

i wouldnt imagine youd hahve ant trouble finding a 46t sprocket, i got a 40t easy enough for the cr, its when you want to go to a 38 or a 36 it starts getting hard :headbang:

[pete.ktm]

anyone know the current nz cost of a scotts damper (ktm 450 above bar mount). just trying to decide between scotts and roc stomper and buying local or direct from oz/states.

or if anyone has a 2nd hand one going cheap...

cheers.

[scott411]

Scott's are made by ohlins, the new model ohlins are very trick, i have got one and swear by it, much better then the GPR and WER ones i have had before, i they are $1399

[CRF119]

I have my CRF one as hard as possible if you take it off you notice a slight differance. I have never had head shake on my CRF450 that was bad enough to worry about slowing down so must be working. Good on trails when tapped out. (most rides have plenty of sections to tap a 450 out.) Like thunder and kimmies etc.

[Reckless]

Here's quite an interesting article on how Honda are doing it !
More of the traditional design as seen on road bike with the extending rod system mounted vertically under the number plate. Seems to be ok though.

http://www.vitalmx.com/features/First-Look-HPSD-Honda-Progressive-Steering-Damper,1903

[pete.ktm]

just waiting for some prices from my local shop b4 i decide which damper.

current plan is a roc stomper, gpr's seem to have possible leaking problems and scotts a bit too much $.

i was going for a "no dampen on return to centre" model but after reading the motorsportz damper site maybe there is something to have dampening on return to center. so do i get the roc stomper original with dampening on return to centre or advanced with no dampening. anyone have any opinions?

i'm only doing trail rides so i'm sure anything would be all good.

cheers

[Danger]

Pete I can think of no good reason why you would want the damper to dampen back to centre, you want the wheel to find the straight ahead direction at speed, and when cornering the damper does not do much. I recommend the advanced unit if your going with the Roc Stomper, worth the extra $100.00 in my opinion.

[pete.ktm]

from motosportz.com...


Non free to center. There are two philosophies to steering dampers. Free to center and not free to center. Some dampers only damp while going away from center, coming back they have little or no damping. Some dampers have the same amount of damping in both directions. There are pluses and minuses to both designs but we feel the damping in both directions design, if implemented right is the best, here is why. If you are in and corner and you hit something on the inside like a root or rock there is no damping force helping to keep you on track and your bars are free to whip back towards center. Also if you are in a rock garden and deflections are occurring from both sides, especially turning in a corner in a rock garden you are again left with no deflection protection from the outside to the center. Additionally when charging through a fast sandy whoop section and you start to swap a free to center designed damper is only going to control half that oscillation. A non free to center damper is in our opinion much better at high speed oscillation damping.

of course the fact they sell a dampened return to center version may have some bearing on their opionion.

i hate choices :)

[warewolf]

Some MSC dampers offer three settings: MX, Desert & Cross-Country, all have full damping away from centre.

MX has no damping on return to centre.
Desert has half damping on return.
XC has full damping on return.

That implies that different styles and terrain benefit from different damping characteristics. In the adventure world, most people use the Desert or CC setting. It's possible that the higher speeds reflect the road-riding style where damping is usually full both ways?

[Ktmboy]

Pete I can think of no good reason why you would want the damper to dampen back to centre, you want the wheel to find the straight ahead direction at speed, and when cornering the damper does not do much. I recommend the advanced unit if your going with the Roc Stomper, worth the extra $100.00 in my opinion.

What he said..It helps on tight tracks in amongst trees when you hit a knarly root. You need to centre quickly to stay on line. otherwise you end up fighting the thing all day.

[Reckless]

ok so let me get this??

Motosportz and to some degree Warewolf by his post are saying return damping is helpful when your front wheel gets knocked in the opposite direction (from the inside) like on the rock bed, root or when you get twisted up when hitting a whoop wrong (know how that feels).

And Danger and Ktmboy are saying if you have return damping you end up fighting it.
So in saying that I can only surmise that when you turn in you turn slower or turn by leaning the bike and/or weighting the bike on the inside with your foot or all of the above! Therefore not employing the damping effect unless your wheel gets hit by something and turns fast or you get a tank slapper. But when you turn back to straight you turn fast enough to employ the damper if it has return damping and therefore and up fighting the damper.

As long as I have assumed correctly there are two different theories here!

So other than spending two grand on two dampers to find out which you prefer, buy one that you can turn the return damping off if you hate it???

Like this http://www.trademe.co.nz/Browse/Listing.aspx?id=207066286

So why would Ohlins put high, low speed and return damping on that one??

More info required please team?? :confused:

[pete.ktm]

So why would Ohlins put "high and low speed" return damping on that one??


looking at ohlins web site they have these part numbers for the model before the new SD 2.0 (which has adjustable damping back to center):

Part No. SD 415 (damping both ways).
Part No. SD 425 (no damping back to center).

so it looks like it isn't quite black and white. maybe it's like msc say, for some types of offroading it's better to have it and some it's not. trail rides would be closest to cross country and msc say you want it.

was going to order one tomorrow but maybe i'll do a little more googling and wait for a few more replies.

[Reckless]

Their web site lists a part number for my 08 Ktm200 its an SD561 but looks like theyve only produced them for a few models. They do look very sexy though!
Can't afford one for a fair while as I've just dropped my forks and shock off the Danger to work his Magic!

Still like my questions answered so I understand better from those that have them?? :scooter:

[warewolf]

See Robert Taylor's comments (click the arrow to view the entire post & thread):

The rotary dampers ( Ohlins / Scotts ) introduce external low speed and high speed compression adjustment, but frankly that is good for Enduro / MX and less so for road / road race.

Might be worth asking RT to explain both high/low and return/not?

[warewolf]

when you hit a knarly root. You need to centre quickly to stay on line.That... doesn't make sense to me, am I missing something? Surely the whole point with the damper is that there's no centreing required because the bars haven't been knocked off centre? With a damper, the bars stay straight and the bike climbs up over the root with little input from the rider.

I haven't thoroughly investigated all this as I'm not in the market to buy one short term. I've just made a mental note that there are various return-to-centre options I should consider when the time comes. I have a vague recollection of people trying the various settings (adjustable dampers) on adventure bikes and wanting at least some return-to-centre damping.

Which is why it would be worth asking someone like RT. Or have a hunt around on a KTM hard parts website and see if they list different styles for mx vs xc.

Trying to think it through, about the only time you want the bars held off-centre is turning in to a corner. This is probably a longer process in XC than MX, and the likelihood of hitting something is higher in XC. Hence the desire for damping on return-to-centre: so you don't get pushed wide/off-line when turning in.

OK another scenario: hanging the rear out in a long powerslide, in which case the bars are held off-centre for a relatively long time. Return-to-centre damping perhaps helps to stop the rear end snapping viciously back in to line... and possibly reducing the chance of a high-side?

Discuss! :argue: :laugh:

[Danger]

The only time I want my damper to dampen "my input" into the steering action is when I'm not putting "any input" into the steering other than traveling in a straight line. Its only needed to protect against a side ways deflection from the wheel on an angled root, rock or tree stump or enable me to have a looser grip on the bars. I do not want any dampening coming into effect when cornering, so I also adjust the sweep adjustment to the minimum 34 degrees (I think only the Scotts Ohlins offer this feature).

The sweep adjustment on my Scotts Ohlins dampers changes the release point of the dampers range of resistance or sweep and is adjustable from 34-44-54 and 78 degress. This allows the adjustment of the breakaway point as needed as well as reduce arm pump caused by unnecessary resistance in a range that does not require damping, or in my preference a lack of resistance in returning to centre. No damping back to the centreline allows for a lighter feel on the steering and easier maneuverability in the tight turns.

Its cheaper to make a damper that dampens in both directions with only oriface style damping, several check valves need to be incorporated into a damper that offers no damping back to centre, so the cheaper designs are going to promote their cheaper models as being of advantage.
The newer Ohlins model will promote the use of these features (but theirs is selectable and not cheap) to try and get you to spend $1300-$1400 on the new model.
You need to decide what you want, I have used dampers for a long time and have only given my opinions from my own experience. If you are trying to mask handling deficiencies due to other factors with a damper you may require something different to what I need.

[Reckless]

Great Danger! Exactly what we needed so a damper with adjustable sweep is a good thing to have as well.
As you say some other people might like their dampers set up differently but its good to have a thorough piece of advice on how and why you set yours.

Main thing I get is to have enough adjustment to be able to set it so its not doing its thing when you don't feel you need it.

So return damping may be OK to have, but as long as you can adjust it back to a level that your not fighting against it. So if you can really feel the dampers effect in either direction you probably have it set to harshly. As you describe you have yours adjusted so it only effects you where you feel it necessary. An aide thats there but you don't know it till its not or you ride your bike without it. I can see that an overly set up damper would tire you more then aide you!

That's wonderful Cheers mate!

[sdotmac]

I've ridden WER, Scotts, new Ohlins and GPR. Bought a Scotts years ago and have fitted it to every bike i've owned.

My criteria was it mustn't be noticed but must work, which is why I didn't like the WER and GPR (of the time) as both damped back to centre and gave a treacly steering feel that required input where I thought it shouldn't have.
To me back-to-centre damping is useful if you have an injury/are completely knackered/are doing mental-speed California desert racing.

You've read all the advantages already but the main thing was - faster, for longer, for less effort. Noticeable seconds off MX laptimes on rough tracks prove the pudding to me too. Worth every penny. Have never adjusted the sweep or high speed, and run the low speed damping one or two clicks lower than standard.

Worth noting the new Ohlins has RTCr. that can be turned on or off. Rode one in the weekend and found things were still the same - bike felt a bit wheelbarrow-ish to ride with it on, but felt great with it off. Invisible and more stable. If you can afford it, get it. Sexy and fits neatly under the bars without any extra riser nonsense (ridden a few damped bikes with chopper bars where you can;t weight the front wheel properly)

[pete.ktm]

3 opinions for "no return to center dampening" and the distributor of the roc stompa says the "no return to center dampening" version outsells the "return to center dampening" version 10 to 1, guess i'm convinced.

thanx for your help guys.

[zzzbang]

ohlins damper that mounts on the bar clamps is great, havnt had trouble with it yet. easy adjust on the go

[camchain]

Excellent thread with great physics stuff to ponder (With my limited understanding of fluid dynamics). Been thinking a situation it might be beneficial to have some RTC effect is during a major tankslapper. Tending to think that away from centre damping probably enough to cut the oscillation though. But maybe a very small amount of RTC (unnoticable during normal riding?) might still be enough to have a useful effect during a rapid/violent headshake? Seems you'd definitely want this to be separate adjustment though, as noted by Danger.

Only ever really had one true lock to lock tank slapper, but this was in the old days of short travel suspension. 'Perfect storm' of right combination of suspension geometry/speed/bump shapes etc. Truly scary. All that energy has to do its thing somewhere.

Like climintie found with with a top notch camera lens. The more I read about the Ohlins/Scott one, the more I want it. Ouch$.

[Morcs]

I have a GPR V1. I know its on a road bike, but still. Its awesome..

[pete.ktm]

Got a scotts damper off ebay, first ride tomorrow. It came with the bar clamp for bars closest to the rider.

Are there any nz shops that stock scotts damper parts? i need a ktm '06 450exc bar clamp only for the standard ktm bar position number 3.

cheers.

[flyingcr250]

anyone know about GPR dampers? i read the early ones had problems?

http://www.ktmcyclehutt.com/ktm-parts/ktm-parts.php?sku=U6908870&title=KTM-GPR-Steering-Stabilizer&year=&ktm-model=&category=Steering-Stabilizers&fitment=bigbikes

http://www.ktmcyclehutt.com/ktm-parts/ktm-parts.php?sku=U6909815&title=KTM-Version-4-GPR-Stabilizer&year=&ktm-model=&category=Steering-Stabilizers&fitment=bigbikes