Bucket options?

[wbks]

so I've been looking through buckets and when I find a cheap, tidy one it's a fourspeed which from what I hear is a big dis advantage. Then, when I find a five speed it is nearly a thousand bucks, which isn't really cheap for a bucket, is it? so what options are there for a bucket that is atleast front disk brake'd, and is a five speed? I noticed that pit bikes are legal in the class but are they competitive? Cheap, disk brakes all around 110cc fourstroke (cheap chinese kind) although 3 speed they must be light.

[TZ350]

They may be Buckets and the safest way to go road racing.

But it would be a mistake to think there is something inferior about them. They are expertly ridden and pushed to the limits.

They are ridden much harder (albeit slower) than you see in other club racing and there is a remarkably high degree of technical development that go's into them.

$1000, Depends on whether your a rider or a constructor.

To build your own to a half decent standard will cost you much more than $1000 in my experience.

If your a rider first, then a $1000 for someone else's well developed bike and all the hard work put into it, is a bargain I reckon.

If you can't build/maintain your own I suspect you will always be at a disadvantage and should think about an easier option like a road bike and track days.

[wbks]

I have no problem maintaining bikes but I don't want to have to make too many modifications or spend much money on a bucket to have a reasonably fast bike if ridden right. I just rode a mates 150 at mt wellington which he bought for $800 and it was clearly competitive as I could easily pass all the other buckets there just on the straits and corner exits and the only guy there that ever passed me was another buy on a 150 which looked pretty stock version of the one I was riding apart from mx bars conversion. The 1000 bike I see isnt a well developed bucket, its just a road bike at the moment.

[TZ350]

Yes a standard FXR150 is a pretty good option. It does not take to much effort to make them into something worth while. Your right, if you look around you should find something, maybe a road bike thats a little scuffed/bent (damaged bike auctions, possibly) that you can easily straighten out.

But if you recently rode a mates 150 at Mt Wellington and were not overtaken by anything else bar another 150 during the day, then you might find buckets are to easy for you.

[wbks]

lol im sure there are quite a few bucket racers who will give me the learn quite easily. You werent being sarky were you? cause the guy was r6 kid who seemed like a good rider and was passing the guy who's bike I was borrowing just as easily. So long as I have them to keep up with it should be fine. So cb twins are an option? 150 I take it? What kind of price could I expect to pay for one? whats their technical name?

[TZ350]

Not tooo sarky, just over the seasons I've seen gifted young guys have a tryout on borrowed bikes, go real well and then disappear, pity because they could have been good and fun to chase around.

Maybe they just found it to easy, better that they had fallen off or something so the challenge of Bucketracing could capture their imagination. R6 is a real smooth clean rider who is fun.

Hope you get the Bucketracing bug, it would be good to have you around.

CB125T's are a good option to, one came 2nd in the GP at Taupo.

[speedpro]

CB125T's are a good option to, one came 2nd in the GP at Taupo.

FXR150 first and second I think followed by some wobbly 2-stroke thing.

[Skunk]

FXR150 first and second I think followed by some wobbly 2-stroke thing.
You mean someone wobbly on a two stroke thing? :chase:

[bucketracer]

Isn't there some kids poem about a blind donkey called Wibbly-Wobbly?

[TZ350]

I'll bash you with my Zimmer Frame, :bash: if I can catch you that is! :woohoo:

[wbks]

Can you replace the 18" wheels off a cb125 with a smaller set of wheels to fit race slicks without modification?

[Ixion]

Hm. I am following this with interest. I am still walking suspiciously around this bucket thing poking it with a sharp stick.

Originally my impression of bucket racing was it was a cheap fun thing. Buy some old banger for five hundred bucks and have a bit of fun with it, no-one caring too much who won or lost. That sounded remarkably similar to what we used to do when I was a young fellow (allowing for an extra zero on the price, it was many years ago). Cheap harmless fun, and a wee bit of an engineering challenge (as in "Why the f**k won't you start you bastard")

I am begining to suspect that the reality is a lot of more serious and a lot more pricey than I envisaged. The "not really caring who won or lost" certainly doesn't seem to be true. And some of the setups I've been reading about would run to a good many thousands of bucks, even without counting ones own labour.

So , like the OP, I'm sort of thinking "where are the options ?". Small old bikes will usually be either drum braked or four speed , or both. Drum brakes I don't so much mind (brakes are an over rated luxury I reckon); four speeds is harder to change. Front ends can be swapped : but it all starts to cost.

And it all seems very competative . Like, if you're not willing or able to spend the thousands to make or buy something "competative" it's not worth bothering.

And I also detect the classic problem of many racing classifcations. Where the class gets captured by a specific model of bike, and anyone who isn't riding one is just a joke. And because everyone is on the same basic machine , the whole thing descends into a world where what matters is how much each person is prepared to bend the rules ; or how big a risks they are prepared toake on the track. Happened with the Senior TT , when the Manx Norton pretty much took over. And later here in NZ when Club racing was just a whole field of Yamaha 350 cc two smokers. And it seems that bucket racing is going that way with the FXR150.,

I'd like to be told I'm wrong, but it's not what I'm reading.

I guess I'll keep poking it with that stick a bit more.

[speedpro]

The guys on here may be at the more dedicated end of the bucket fraternity. There are plenty running AX100s etc with hardly any mods. At Mt Welly there is a "B" grade which does have a mix of buckets. Some have been developed and some not. Just get something and give it a go. If you ask nicely it shouldn't be too hard to bludge a ride at a Saturday practice day. It's up to you where you go with it. For me it is impossible not to put effort into making the bike as good as possible, and I enjoy that aspect.

[piston broke]

ixion,your first two paragraphs sum up,what i've been doing,and what i've done.
scored my a100 for $112.50.
i won't be winning any races but i will be out there trying to better myself,oh and hopefully havin a load of fun.
gotta start somewhere eh.

[Trudes]

Hm. I am following this with interest. I am still walking suspiciously around this bucket thing poking it with a sharp stick.

Originally my impression of bucket racing was it was a cheap fun thing. Buy some old banger for five hundred bucks and have a bit of fun with it, no-one caring too much who won or lost. That sounded remarkably similar to what we used to do when I was a young fellow (allowing for an extra zero on the price, it was many years ago). Cheap harmless fun, and a wee bit of an engineering challenge (as in "Why the f**k won't you start you bastard")

I am begining to suspect that the reality is a lot of more serious and a lot more pricey than I envisaged. The "not really caring who won or lost" certainly doesn't seem to be true. And some of the setups I've been reading about would run to a good many thousands of bucks, even without counting ones own labour.

So , like the OP, I'm sort of thinking "where are the options ?". Small old bikes will usually be either drum braked or four speed , or both. Drum brakes I don't so much mind (brakes are an over rated luxury I reckon); four speeds is harder to change. Front ends can be swapped : but it all starts to cost.

And it all seems very competative . Like, if you're not willing or able to spend the thousands to make or buy something "competative" it's not worth bothering.

And I also detect the classic problem of many racing classifcations. Where the class gets captured by a specific model of bike, and anyone who isn't riding one is just a joke. And because everyone is on the same basic machine , the whole thing descends into a world where what matters is how much each person is prepared to bend the rules ; or how big a risks they are prepared toake on the track. Happened with the Senior TT , when the Manx Norton pretty much took over. And later here in NZ when Club racing was just a whole field of Yamaha 350 cc two smokers. And it seems that bucket racing is going that way with the FXR150.,

I'd like to be told I'm wrong, but it's not what I'm reading.

I guess I'll keep poking it with that stick a bit more.

To a large extent you are right.
However, like a lot of things I guess it depends how seriously you want to take it. For instance, I am quite happy to putter about on my 100CC 2 stroke, never win anything except for "token" prizes (even though I got third place in our B grade buckets here in Welly, but that was more due to turning up and finishing all but one race and having a bike that was reliable all season), but I am having a crap load of fun (probably because I don't take it too seriously and am not all about winning) and learning heaps about bikes and riding in general.
Half the fun for me is turning an old piece of shit into something that will make it around the track all day, take it home, change some things and then bring it back next time to see what difference it makes (making a new one at the moment, can't wait to see how it goes!!)
I think it'd be sad if everyone started racing FXRs, sure there'd be some different modifications that would come through, but I like the variety that buckets offers at the moment with 2 strokes and 4s, 6 speeds and 4 speeds, 50, 100, 125, 150cc etc, it's all fun.... which should be the point.

[wbks]

I don't think fxr's are the only bikes being ridden fast. But heres what I'm wondering about... You say all you want is a little bit of fun at low cost and want kind of "who cares who wins i had fun" meetings but then you sound so preocupied with worrying about not being on a non competitive bike and not winning the racing.

[Sully60]

And it all seems very competative . Like, if you're not willing or able to spend the thousands to make or buy something "competative" it's not worth bothering.




I think your sextant has slipped a little and you're starting to navigate a bit close to the edge of the world there ol' timer.

Any form of racing is competitive no question though how far you take that (especially in F4 and F5)is entirely up to you.
The point at which you stop enjoying it would be the time to stop bothering IMO.

It may seem a very results driven thing from the outside and I'm know that some people's enjoyment relies on doing well in their racing (I include myself here) and others are the well trained the the dark arts of engine and chassis performance but at the end of the day it's all about being out there with your machine you enjoy doing the best you can.

Sometimes it's more satifying coming dead last but having wrung every last bit out of a bike with no damping, brakes or power and saved so many front end slides your knee sliders are smeared half way down your leg:headbang:

You could of course take the route of classic or post classic racing, I'm sure they're not at all that competitive:no:

[bucketracer]

It seems to me folks come to the Bucket party dressed all different ways and so long as your enjoying yourself and sharing a smile with others people are glad to have you there.

But to be Queen of the ball you have to spend a little money, think about your dress, and have some natural talent.

If you can't do this, then cheers brother, sit with me, share a laugh and enjoy :wari: the party.

[Skunk]

I'll never win a race and I don't care. I'm having 'fun on what I brung' and that's the point. I enjoy the odd bit of welding and 'what if' as well so I do it. Some of it is a failure, some an improvement, and some makes no difference. All fun for me. How far can I push my skills.

If everyone was aiming at winning only there are oblivious choices in bikes to start with - and not everyone uses them.

Also you may not hear from the 'also rans' if they're anything like me. I don't do race reports as there's not much to report other than I had fun.

Give it a go.

[wbks]

So does anyone know if 17" wheels will fit strait onto a cb125 or will it need modification of some sort?

[Ixion]

CB125Twin. Probbaly not, 17 inch was pretty rare in them days. Might be something around that fits, prowl around with a caliper vernier. Is it wire spokes? If so just take the wheel to Tom Morris and get him to lace in a 17 inch rim (or do it yourself, it's not hard.)

[wbks]

not mine, was just asking because im looking at one with 18"'s. Its not a twin. Is it expensive to get one laced? im assuming that means made.

[Skunk]

Spacer and bearings if required are the cheap way to do it. Anything can be made to fit anything. It is easier if it's close to start with so measure first.

[Buckets4Me]

not mine, was just asking because im looking at one with 18"'s. Its not a twin. Is it expensive to get one laced? im assuming that means made.

lace it up yourself thats what I did

you need to get rims for it thow
have a troll around trade me for some 2.15 2.5 3.00 3.50 x17 rims
then all you need is the spokes cut and re thread the ones you have or hunt for ones that fit then pull the whole lote apart and start from there

lots of fun easy to do much like a 1,000,000,000 bit puzle realy
if you stuff it up start again I can give you a hand

ps have a good look at how the spokes go before pulling apart
and a pair of bolt cutters or plasma gun is a quick way to despoke a rim
as long as you dont want to use the spokes again

[TZ350]

Yep, it's Buckets-get your hands dirty!

[wbks]

lace it up yourself thats what I did

you need to get rims for it thow
have a troll around trade me for some 2.15 2.5 3.00 3.50 x17 rims
then all you need is the spokes cut and re thread the ones you have or hunt for ones that fit then pull the whole lote apart and start from there

lots of fun easy to do much like a 1,000,000,000 bit puzle realy
if you stuff it up start again I can give you a hand

ps have a good look at how the spokes go before pulling apart
and a pair of bolt cutters or plasma gun is a quick way to despoke a rim
as long as you dont want to use the spokes againHey check your pms when you get a minute. dont bother with what I asked you about the wheels obviously but I asked you if its a kickstart in which case if i try kickstarting it should it go to make sure its running? what do you need the battery for anyway?

[ajturbo]

my bucket cost me $150... then i spent another $200 on tuning it ( as i didn't have the skill i had to pay someone)
put some half decent tiers on it...
apart from gas and oil and a spark plug, that is all it cost for nearly 2 years of racing...(i did have to get a new piston as one of them got a ring in the wrong place)

and it was very fast... i just changed the gearing to suit the track.. shame about the rider, he let the side down a lot..

[Ixion]

Ah, taht sounds more like it. We shall see. I think I will go and lurk at Mt Wellington for a bit.

[Ixion]

Can you use an engine larger than the rules allow , and sleeve it down to legal capacity? Or use a twin with one cylinder blanked off (or, a four with two blanked off, probably better from a balance POV). Can you have more than one engine in the bike (eg 2 70cc engines?).Annoyingly I have about 4 250 cc engines lying around, but nothing smaller.

[piston broke]

ixion,
you're more than welcome to have a blast on the ahundy.
hanging to get it to mt welli.
bring on the first day 09

[Skunk]

Can you use an engine larger than the rules allow , and sleeve it down to legal capacity? Or use a twin with one cylinder blanked off (or, a four with two blanked off, probably better from a balance POV). Can you have more than one engine in the bike (eg 2 70cc engines?).Annoyingly I have about 4 250 cc engines lying around, but nothing smaller.
Yes, you can. Use your imagination - that's what this class is all about.

[wbks]

wouldn't that be a bit heavy when you can pic up something from a wreckers for a couple hundred? I don't think they are too strict on the engines. It only talks about rebored engines in my '07 mnz manual about f4/f5 engines. They would probably let you off with a 250 IL4 with only 2 cylenders running, it wouldn't be an advantage. And two 70cc's would be a bitch to get working right. Just make sure the engine isn't considered competition based and if you are trying to go into f5 there can only be one carb up to a 20mm. woops someone beat me to it

[speedpro]

Annoyingly I have about 4 250 cc engines lying around, but nothing smaller.

<quote Monty burns "Excellent">

Look here - http://www.kiwibiker.co.nz/forums/showthread.php?t=11908

[TZ350]

That is very cool speedpro.

[speedpro]

Get two end cylinders, spend ages blanking off the sides and making drives for a cam belt. cast cases for a V-twin to mount the cylinders on, put it all together, mate it up to a scooter CVT transmission. Probably easiest to start it with the likes of a model aeroplane engine starter.

Just an idea. If you are making a custom crank ,make it short stroke so the engine is only 100cc and supercharge it.

Buckets, the only real limit is your imagination. The engine in the above link was made in my garage by me with a cheap lathe and a few power tools.

[Ixion]

<quote monty="" burns="" excellent="">

Look here - http://www.kiwibiker.co.nz/forums/showthread.php?t=11908

Hm. Interesting. So, you can use a crippled IL4 250 running on two cylinders. And you can supercharge it? So could you (legally) use two cylinders of the 250 to supercharge to other two? Dunno how one would sort the cams out, but I imagine something could be done. Somehow. I'm big on 'somehow' . Or use a 400 cc twin, sleeve one cylinder down for the actual "power" cylinder (200 cc down to 125, should have decent valve sizes); and use the other cylinder as a supercharger. Like the old Puch two strokes. 200 cc charging 125 is a decent boost.

</quote>

[Ixion]

wouldn't that be a bit heavy when you can pic up something from a wreckers for a couple hundred? I..

Possibly. But the advantage is that you get a frame that should have brakes and suspension beefy enough without having to do transplants. And , say, an RZ250 chassis isn't that heavy.

[speedpro]

wouldn't that be a bit heavy . . . . They would probably let you off with a 250 IL4 with only 2 cylenders running, it wouldn't be an advantage. And two 70cc's would be a bitch to get working right.

I had a look at this. all the 250/4s are 4V heads and high performance with nice gearboxes. The Yams at least have very light crankcases and is the reason I didn't bother removing the unused bit on my engine. Plus it'll be a good place to mount a turbo and the oil will drain directly back into the case. I'd guess the 1/2 a FZR250 weighs less than a CB125T, and it has plain bearings on the crank, is water cooled, 4V straight intake heads, modern rods/pistons(OK 20 yrs old now) and just lovely bits of kit and a 17-18,000rpm redline.

[speedpro]

Possibly. But the advantage is that you get a frame that should have brakes and suspension beefy enough without having to do transplants. And , say, an RZ250 chassis isn't that heavy.

The FZR250 chassis is a honey as well. It's noticeable to someone who has been to a few meetings up and down the country that the Wellington guys like their ZXR/FZR style alloy beam frames and they go very very well on them. There is lighter frames but I doubt if many have better brakes or handling. My own FZR is very impressive to ride handling wise. The RS125 brakes are pretty good as well. They generally come with good size wheels which helps.

[speedpro]

an RZ250 chassis isn't that heavy.

Not after a day with a 9" cutoff disc and angle grinder :clap:

[Skunk Control]

Buckets is all about having fun, weather it's in the racing side of it or the building side. For me I'm still enjoying the fossicking side, trying to find bits to build my own bucket (and very cheaply).

[Skunk]

Possibly. But the advantage is that you get a frame that should have brakes and suspension beefy enough without having to do transplants. And , say, an RZ250 chassis isn't that heavy.
There was an RZ350/MT100 bucket down here for a while. Had a big crash and the frame didn't survive. I have the swingarm and wheels from it but the engine is still with it's original owner. As for alloy beam frames ZXR (two) and TZR (two) frames are getting common here too.
And '89 RG250's... by the start of the season there will be three.

[koba]

I started on a totally fucked 110cc loncin pitbike with non functioning rear suspension.
I got it for $200.
Bucket racing is what you make it, any bike is better than none just get a bike and do it!

[wbks]

Fair enough. I'll be fucked itf I ever let someone at my zxr250 with the intention of turning it into a bucket racer! :wacko:

[Skunk]

Fair enough. I'll be fucked itf I ever let someone at my zxr250 with the intention of turning it into a bucket racer! :wacko:
Well, I've got one (http://www.kiwibiker.co.nz/forums/showthread.php?t=67662)...

[k14]

CB125Twin. Probbaly not, 17 inch was pretty rare in them days. Might be something around that fits, prowl around with a caliper vernier. Is it wire spokes? If so just take the wheel to Tom Morris and get him to lace in a 17 inch rim (or do it yourself, it's not hard.)
Ahem, come for a look in my garage and you'll be pleasantly surprised. As long as you can get access to a lathe to make up a few spacers it shouldn't take longer than an afternoon to fit them up.

As for the class being expensive etc. I paid $350 for my bucket 4 years ago, I had spent less than $200 for three years of racing prior to this year. I rebuilt the top end for BOB and that cost me about $300. Since then I came 5th at BOB and even won a race against FXR's and CBR's at levels full track. So its totally up to the rider. Apart from 17" wheels and the overbore my CB is totally standard. You can certainly go out there and get something for $500 that is capable of running top 10% of the class but you will always have guys that spend more money than everyone else. That's motorsport. Nothing wrong with it, each to their own.

[k14]

I had a look at this. all the 250/4s are 4V heads and high performance with nice gearboxes. The Yams at least have very light crankcases and is the reason I didn't bother removing the unused bit on my engine. Plus it'll be a good place to mount a turbo and the oil will drain directly back into the case. I'd guess the 1/2 a FZR250 weighs less than a CB125T, and it has plain bearings on the crank, is water cooled, 4V straight intake heads, modern rods/pistons(OK 20 yrs old now) and just lovely bits of kit and a 17-18,000rpm redline.
My engine is roughly 40kg. What is your one? The alloy of the FZR would be a big weight advantage, the CB engine is a boat anchor. My CB weighs in at just over 100kg, I'm pretty sure the FZR 125 would be more than that though.

[Squiggles]

Do the AG100 motors go alright?

[Ixion]

What's the deal with scrutineering on such things? Do they need to be certified in any way. F'instance if I want to cut a bit or two out of a frame and weld a new bit or two in?

[Ixion]

Ahem, come for a look in my garage and you'll be pleasantly surprised. As long as you can get access to a lathe to make up a few spacers it shouldn't take longer than an afternoon to fit them up.

As for the class being expensive etc. I paid $350 for my bucket 4 years ago, I had spent less than $200 for three years of racing prior to this year. I rebuilt the top end for BOB and that cost me about $300. Since then I came 5th at BOB and even won a race against FXR's and CBR's at levels full track. So its totally up to the rider. Apart from 17" wheels and the overbore my CB is totally standard. You can certainly go out there and get something for $500 that is capable of running top 10% of the class but you will always have guys that spend more money than everyone else. That's motorsport. Nothing wrong with it, each to their own.


Spacers I can make (I have a lathe). It'd be the disk brake callipers that would exercise me. Another advantage of TLS I guess, all you needed was a check strap. But if the new wheel has a large disk diameter (as one would like it to), then how to mount the (new) calliper to the old fork legs.Given that's one hell of a stressed mounting.

[wbks]

So I got the cb125 single from buckets4me for nice and cheap. Now I just need to get a battery today from repco put some gas in it, a new plug and see if the points need much doing and I might just replace them anyway if they're off. Saves screwing around with worn ones, unless I can't find replacement ones to fit. Cheers for the spare parts, b4me. I'll make a new topic when I get it running and take it to mt.wellington for a day.

[k14]

What's the deal with scrutineering on such things? Do they need to be certified in any way. F'instance if I want to cut a bit or two out of a frame and weld a new bit or two in?
Nothing needed at all. Although the people doing scrutineering are usually pretty well informed and experienced and will spot a bodge job a mile away.

Spacers I can make (I have a lathe). It'd be the disk brake callipers that would exercise me. Another advantage of TLS I guess, all you needed was a check strap. But if the new wheel has a large disk diameter (as one would like it to), then how to mount the (new) calliper to the old fork legs.Given that's one hell of a stressed mounting.
Discs aren't usually a problem. There is two ways to do it, I got a NSR front wheel and disc and machined about 2mm off the perimeter of the disc. Then I ground out the remaining 1-2 mm from the caliper.

Alternately you can get a big hunk of alu and make an adapter that bolts onto the fork leg and spaces the caliper to the correct position that way. If you have a mill you can make a really nice job of something like that but it can be done by hand and drill press if need be.

[Sully60]

So I got the cb125 single from buckets4me for nice and cheap

Good shit man! Those things can be made to haul arse, you'll be whipping FXR's in no time!





Spacers I can make (I have a lathe). It'd be the disk brake callipers that would exercise me. Another advantage of TLS I guess, all you needed was a check strap. But if the new wheel has a large disk diameter (as one would like it to), then how to mount the (new) calliper to the old fork legs.Given that's one hell of a stressed mounting.

You've come a wee way since the "brakes are an over rated luxury" phase.
Check this (http://www.supermotard.co.nz/images/brake.jpg) out. Two bits of 10mm aluminium plate cut out by hand, shim steel to get the lateral alignment, mating holes drilled, done. Had an engineers report done due to the hand made nature of this adaptation and according his calculations each bolt has a safety factor of two for the application.
Best part is this setup fitted and worked reliably on all four Japanese brand MX bikes.
You don't need brakes like this on a bucket but you do need to slow down accurately and consistantly:yes:





What's the deal with scrutineering on such things? Do they need to be certified in any way. F'instance if I want to cut a bit or two out of a frame and weld a new bit or two in?

You'd be lucky to pass if you haven't done that:laugh:

As long as the engineering is up to scratch you'll be fine. Like K14 says anything obviously sub standard will attract attention and you may be told to fix it before you can race.

[Pumba]

So I got the cb125 single from buckets4me for nice and cheap. Now I just need to get a battery today from repco put some gas in it, a new plug and see if the points need much doing and I might just replace them anyway if they're off. Saves screwing around with worn ones, unless I can't find replacement ones to fit. Cheers for the spare parts, b4me. I'll make a new topic when I get it running and take it to mt.wellington for a day.

Nice work mate, for what its worth if the points are rooted rather than replacing them you would be better off to convert it to a CDI ignition, did that with the RX and it changed the bike.

[Sully60]

Nice work mate, for what its worth if the points are rooted rather than replacing them you would be better off to convert it to a CDI ignition, did that with the RX and it changed the bike.

Wot he said^^^^^.

Points are a fricken nightmare, eh Ixion?:shutup:

[Ixion]

Absolutely nothing wrong with points. A lot more relaible than those bloody electronic things. Electroinics is just a pain in the tit, except for fuel injection which is good becaus eit enable one to dispense with the Abomination unto the Lord which Is the Carburettor.

But, to the point (geddit ? geddit ? every one a gem ) : is an AG100 a perverted AX100 or a bastardised A100 ?

[Sully60]

Absolutely nothing wrong with points. A lot more relaible than those bloody electronic things.

Which is why my twin gained nearly 3hp and can now run all day with a 7a/h battery and total loss ignition and it doesn't need chokes to get started. All after converting from points to a basic electronic system.



But, to the point (geddit ? geddit ? every one a gem ) : is an AG100 a perverted AX100 or a bastardised A100 ?

Careful there, you've actually got two different brands of machine mixed up there and no, none of the models you mention are the same mechanically in any way.
The AG is a Yamaha and is not a perverted anything, it was built exactley the way it was right from the start for worrying farm animals:devil2:

[koba]

Which is why my twin gained nearly 3hp and can now run all day with a 7a/h battery and total loss ignition and it doesn't need chokes to get started. All after converting from points to a basic electronic system.


:lol::lol::lol:

[wbks]

Does it take much to put a CDI into it? I'd like to improve it and all but I just want to get it running to begin with. And btw will a simple small 12v motorcycle battery work fine to run the total loss system? Just clip it in and go?

[Pumba]

Fitting the CDI for me was not to bad, but then the donner CDI was off a AG100 which has a pretty much identical bottom end casing to the RX125, so gust had to slot some holes and bolt it up.

Got my mechanic mate to make sure all timing and firing was correct, so that was real easy for me

[wbks]

hmm. Might just buy some new points for it or set the current ones if they aren't too rooted. Save the performance mod's for when its running, eh. Unless someone has done the same to their cb single and knows how much it would cost

[cmac]

Hi Ixion
I have been following this thread with interest, and now feel I must add something.
I suspect I'm not too much younger than you are....
I am new to buckets (and racing) - I've been to 2 two day meets so far.

Since I was a kid riding the CT50 farm bike I have loved bikes (there were no such things as Ag bikes back then, and believe it or not, the CT50 was the 'standard' farm bike). I also enjoy mucking about with engines etc.
I have been a frequent spectator at bike races and follow MotoGP and Superbikes (I used to live in Melbourne, so got to see a GP every year + superbikes). I've done a lot of road riding and I've mostly owned bigger bikes - Triumphs, Yamahas and currently have a Ducati Paso that I bought new in 1993. I am now the proud owner of a CB125T bucket racer that I bought. It had been ported and bored, has big front end, disks at each end and 17" wheels with slicks and (importantly for me) there is more that can be done to improve it. How much did I spend? $800. My new helmet (mine was over 10 yrs old) and leathers cost me more!

I'm now kicking myself for not getting into bike racing 30+ years ago. Riding the 'little' bike on the track with other similar bikes is a blast. I will never be at the font of the pack with my bike (unless the quick riders/bikes all fall off) but so what. There are other bikes similar to mine and other riders on good machinery that take things more easily to race with. As I see it, everyone is competitive in their own way - for quite a few of us there is little chance of coming first in the race but there is plenty of winning being done - beating that rider, improving lap times, getting that corner sorted, tuning the bike better etc. And, there is sooo much to learn! They do say that us oldies should keep learning - stops atzeimers or something.

As to how safe it is - IMHO it is far, far more dangerous riding on the road.

I really, really, reallly think you should get yourself a ride. I'm not sure what your local club can provide, but here in ChCh the bucket club has a club bike for people to try out. On my first try I think I was hooked half way round the first sighting lap!!! and after my first race there was no question - I was going to do this again (as often as I could).

[cmac]

By the way, I probably should have posted the above comment in your "How dangerous ..." thread. :shit:

[Sully60]

:lol::lol::lol:

It's not the ignition that lets the bike down, it's both the mechanic and rider, coonts!


Does it take much to put a CDI into it? I'd like to improve it and all but I just want to get it running to begin with. And btw will a simple small 12v motorcycle battery work fine to run the total loss system? Just clip it in and go?

I'm not totally certain but the XR dirt bikes had CDI ignition and the engine architecture is the same (the XL125 engine ended up being used in 145, 185, and 200cc capacities) So you'll need to find a complete setup i.e. reluctor or rotor, pulser coil, CDI box and possibly coils and you're away. As I said i'm not 100% certain but that should pretty much bolt on.

[wbks]

Do you have plastic piping for the pegs? The 150 i rode had plastic rods for pegs and i had an embarasing lowside infront of everyone when one hit the ground and took all the weight off the back wheel... Can I keep the stock rubber/steel end pegs or does that need to be nyloned as well?

[Sully60]

Do you have plastic piping for the pegs? The 150 i rode had plastic rods for pegs and i had an embarasing lowside infront of everyone when one hit the ground and took all the weight off the back wheel... Can I keep the stock rubber/steel end pegs or does that need to be nyloned as well?

So the bike you rode didn't have folding foot pegs?:oi-grr:

It doesn't really matter what the pegs are as long as when they do contact the track they don't damage the surface.Securely fastened chopping board along the bottom of the stock pegs should be ok and make sure that if the pegs do fold up the bracket is also protected.

[wbks]

Hey are performance parts like a muffler legal?

[Ivan]

yes muffler is fine.

[Rick 52]

[QUOTE=cmac;1877458]Hi Ixion
I have been following this thread with interest, and now feel I must add something.
I suspect I'm not too much younger than you are....
I am new to buckets (and racing) - I've been to 2 two day meets so far.

Since I was a kid riding the CT50 farm bike I have loved bikes (there were no such things as Ag bikes back then, and believe it or not, the CT50 was the 'standard' farm bike). I also enjoy mucking about with engines etc.
I have been a frequent spectator at bike races and follow MotoGP and Superbikes (I used to live in Melbourne, so got to see a GP every year + superbikes). I've done a lot of road riding and I've mostly owned bigger bikes - Triumphs, Yamahas and currently have a Ducati Paso that I bought new in 1993. I am now the proud owner of a CB125T bucket racer that I bought. It had been ported and bored, has big front end, disks at each end and 17" wheels with slicks and (importantly for me) there is more that can be done to improve it. How much did I spend? $800. My new helmet (mine was over 10 yrs old) and leathers cost me more!

I'm now kicking myself for not getting into bike racing 30+ years ago. Riding the 'little' bike on the track with other similar bikes is a blast. I will never be at the font of the pack with my bike (unless the quick riders/bikes all fall off) but so what. There are other bikes similar to mine and other riders on good machinery that take things more easily to race with. As I see it, everyone is competitive in their own way - for quite a few of us there is little chance of coming first in the race but there is plenty of winning being done - beating that rider, improving lap times, getting that corner sorted, tuning the bike better etc. And, there is sooo much to learn! They do say that us oldies should keep learning - stops atzeimers or something.

As to how safe it is - IMHO it is far, far more dangerous riding on the road.

I really, really, reallly think you should get yourself a ride. I'm not sure what your local club can provide, but here in ChCh the bucket club has a club bike for people to try out. On my first try I think I was hooked half way round the first sighting lap!!! and after my first race there was no question - I was going to do this again (as often as I could).[/Good on ya very well said
I wish I started years ago when all my mates raced]

[gav]

Best bet if you want to get started is just get something and go racing!
OK, thats pretty obvious, two ways to go. Buy an existing well sorted racer or a straight road bike. Run the bike pretty standard, if you enjoy it well and good. If not, you can put the road stuff back on and flog it off. As for what to buy, set yourself a budget and try and stick to it. Check out what others are racing, its a pretty good clue as to what works. But so long as the bike fits the rule, you can race anything and usually you find someone to race with too.
I'd say anywhere up to $1000 is reasonable. It can get pretty expensive to build a bike from scratch especially if your not too sure what will fit etc.
Best bet is run the bike as is for a few meets and decide what you need to change. Tyres are usually the first upgrade, no need to go to 17's straight away, some good 18's out there. Down here, Chch, we run a pretty successful Proddie class which is ideal to race in until you find your feet and see if you want to move up to the elite MotoFXR cup :shutup:.
Best bike to try and find for under a grand? CB125T, Suz GP100, Honda MB100, any Honda 125 single 4 stroke etc. Suz TF100/125 smoker, or an FXR.

[wbks]

Ended up getting a cb125 single for $250. Plans for it so far are gas-$5, new spark plug-$10-20?, Re set points-$0, Battery-$30... So far it looks like it will be $305 max. Havent had it started yet but I'm hoping it will be as simple as putting some gas in and the batt and try pushstarting it for a little while. Cleaned the carb float bowl and the boot today and there were flakes of spraypaint sitting in the bowl... Are there any other things I should check on a bike that hasn't been started in a year to make sure it will go?

[k14]

Check the oil?

[SHELRACING]

Check the chain and sprockets. Dont want them worn.

Brakes, make sure the front brake will pull you up quick smart.

Tyre pressure and tyre rubber is good. Dont want 30yr old tyres on it.

Wheel bearings

Fork seals