Chain lube and noobs...

[babysteps]

Yes, yes, I know, use the search function......

So what do we all use on our chains, WD40? White Lithium Grease? Road Bike Wax based? I'm lost, HELP!!!!!

Also, what are the collective thoughts on removable links in said chain for easy maintenance?

Thanks in advance :)

P.S. All you BMW Shaft wankers can piss off out of this thread right now :p

[MAC_HATER]

hehe Chain drive rules!

since mines a farm bike i just used to use used engine oil - it didint harm the chain but it didint really help it either - i replaced it recently so now out of pure laziness i just use the castrol chain oil spray - bike shops hardware stores and places like repco sell it and i think it does a great job :D

[dino3310]

i use the rivet link on my ride as she dosent like the clip links, shes got a bad habit of spitting them off.
as for lube the scott oiler is the bees knees but i cant afford one yet too many other things to buy so i'm just useing KLOTZ chain lube:niceone:
its very tacky and works well with my oring chain.
they even got a websight: www.klotzlube.com.

[Hitcher]

One needs to become interested in this now that one has a bike with a chain.

[vifferman]

Yes, there are multitudinous threads on this topic. Just find what you like to use, and use that.
MY current lube is Motul Chain Lube, which is a spray-on grease, but I prefer Spectro Chain wax. It's not quite as good a lube as the Motul (apparently), but it's less messy, as the Motul is quite sticky so tends to gather road spooge (and is harder to clean off).
In the past I've used 80W oil (which is what the manufacturers recommend) which is messy; Shell Motorcycle Chain Lube, which is very tacky and crappy; WD40, which has minimal lubing prtoperties but is good between lubes for cleaning the excess chain lube + spooge off.
Always use kerosene (or WD40, which is mostly Stoddard solvent, derived from kero) to clean your chain. Don't use degreaser.
Apply the minimum lube to the chain - only the side plates where the pins are need the lube, and do it on the bottom length of chain, on the side facing the swingarm, after a ride when the chain is warm. This will help the lube to penetrate and evaporate the solvents quicker.
If you use the lube itself to clean off the old lube (the spray-on lubes contain solvents which will do this) spray on more than you need, and wipe it off with a rag.

[slimjim]

Yes, there are multitudinous threads on this topic. Just find what you like to use, and use that.
MY current lube is Motul Chain Lube, which is a spray-on grease, but I prefer Spectro Chain wax. It's not quite as good a lube as the Motul (apparently), but it's less messy, as the Motul is quite sticky so tends to gather road spooge (and is harder to clean off).
In the past I've used 80W oil (which is what the manufacturers recommend) which is messy; Shell Motorcycle Chain Lube, which is very tacky and crappy; WD40, which has minimal lubing prtoperties but is good between lubes for cleaning the excess chain lube + spooge off.
Always use kerosene (or WD40, which is mostly Stoddard solvent, derived from kero) to clean your chain. Don't use degreaser.
Apply the minimum lube to the chain - only the side plates where the pins are need the lube, and do it on the bottom length of chain, on the side facing the swingarm, after a ride when the chain is warm. This will help the lube to penetrate and evaporate the solvents quicker.
If you use the lube itself to clean off the old lube (the spray-on lubes contain solvents which will do this) spray on more than you need, and wipe it off with a rag.


yup can't say it any planer than the above reply..

[Rosie]

I use motorex 622 lube, it's a bit sticker than a standard road lube which is apparently an advantage for off-road/adventure use, but doesn't seem to attract too much dust/crap.

[The Stranger]

after a ride when the chain is warm.

Frequently see this advice, so decided checked the chain temp after a ride back from Russel the other day.
I was expecting it to be at least warm, but it felt just as cool as ever.

[bart]

I use Spectro chain wax. Seems to work well........but.........being a wax, you cant see it on the chain. It's hard to tell if the chain is lubricated or not.

Scott oiler seems to be the way to go.......but........you could buy a couple of new chains for the price of the oiler.

[vifferman]

Frequently see this advice, so decided checked the chain temp after a ride back from Russel the other day.
I was expecting it to be at least warm, but it felt just as cool as ever.
One would think/hope that a chain in good condition, and well lubed, would have insufficient friction to promote heating of the chain anyway.
But on the other hand, any residual chain lube / spooge will at least be softened up, and the links on the chain will be more mobile, so should allow better lubrication. Plus, lubing your chain after (rather than before) a ride allows time for the lube to seep into the links AND for the solvents to evaporate. This reduces fling-off of the lube, which is a Good Thing.

[vifferman]

I use Spectro chain wax. Seems to work well........but.........being a wax, you cant see it on the chain. It's hard to tell if the chain is lubricated or not.
I don't have the problem. I've got one pin marked with red paint (nail polish, actually...) and start lubing the chain there, doing about four links at a time (all I can get at in the gap before the rear sprocket) before rotating the wheel and advancing the chain. There is actually a noticeable (albeit slight) difference between the appearance of lubed and unlubed chain.

[thommo77]

Plain old Castrol chain spray works for me. Doesn't appear to have too much excess 'fling'. Main thing is to clean and lube often - especially in dusty or wet conditions. Go for a quick ride after cleaning to get chain warm, apply lube and then go for another ride/rotate the rear wheel to assist in adhering the lube to the chain.

[Hitcher]

The Shiver's chain has got this like grey stuff on it. Is that a good thing?

[warewolf]

The chain on an adventure/dual-purpose bike cops a flogging. Chain lube itself can be a problem because it attracts grit, but my reality adventure riding is that it just doesn't last very long anyway, so the chain stays dusty & muddy most of the day. ScottOilers help in these conditions because they constantly clean and lube the chain.

Keeping a modern sealed o- or x-ring chain clean is more important than any lube, IMHO. After a wash and de-gunk, spray with wd40 or crc5.56 to dewater and leave a light lube. Only if riding on-road for any length of time, I'll also apply some chain lube, but only because old habits die hard. Next chain, I will test the "wd40 only" method, foregoing chain lube completely. Many, many road riders report very good results from that. Cheap, quick, easy, clean & effective, by all accounts.

[BMWST?]

what is the required/desired oil in a scotoiler or similar...wouldnt it be relatively simple to make one up yourself...a mate has a little bottle fixed in place on his mountain bike....after a while(or water crossing) he gives it a squeeze.Be esp important on a adv bike,with mud /water....

[bart]

The chain on an adventure/dual-purpose bike cops a flogging. Chain lube itself can be a problem because it attracts grit, but my reality adventure riding is that it just doesn't last very long anyway, so the chain stays dusty & muddy most of the day. ScottOilers help in these conditions because they constantly clean and lube the chain.

Keeping a modern sealed o- or x-ring chain clean is more important than any lube, IMHO. After a wash and de-gunk, spray with wd40 or crc5.56 to dewater and leave a light lube. Only if riding on-road for any length of time, I'll also apply some chain lube, but only because old habits die hard. Next chain, I will test the "wd40 only" method, foregoing chain lube completely. Many, many road riders report very good results from that. Cheap, quick, easy, clean & effective, by all accounts.

I'd be interested to see how you go with that. I also think over lubricating can be bad (in dusty conditions), hence the problem with the wax not being visible.

I have my chain off the bike regularly, so clean well (with kero) and leave in a bucket of waste oil over night. Seems to run awesome after that......for a couple of hundred km.

[Sully60]

Yes, there are multitudinous threads on this topic. Just find what you like to use, and use that.
MY current lube is Motul Chain Lube, which is a spray-on grease, but I prefer Spectro Chain wax. It's not quite as good a lube as the Motul (apparently), but it's less messy, as the Motul is quite sticky so tends to gather road spooge (and is harder to clean off).
In the past I've used 80W oil (which is what the manufacturers recommend) which is messy; Shell Motorcycle Chain Lube, which is very tacky and crappy; WD40, which has minimal lubing prtoperties but is good between lubes for cleaning the excess chain lube + spooge off.
Always use kerosene (or WD40, which is mostly Stoddard solvent, derived from kero) to clean your chain. Don't use degreaser.
Apply the minimum lube to the chain - only the side plates where the pins are need the lube, and do it on the bottom length of chain, on the side facing the swingarm, after a ride when the chain is warm. This will help the lube to penetrate and evaporate the solvents quicker.
If you use the lube itself to clean off the old lube (the spray-on lubes contain solvents which will do this) spray on more than you need, and wipe it off with a rag.

+1, Spectro is the best I've used.+2 Excellent advice from the vifferman there!
If I can add a third it's that it's important to keep a very regular routine for cleaning and lubing, it takes minimal neglect to shorten the life of the driveline considerably.


The Shiver's chain has got this like grey stuff on it. Is that a good thing?

Is it hairy in nature?

[cave weta]

The chain on an adventure/dual-purpose bike cops a flogging. Chain lube itself can be a problem because it attracts grit, but my reality adventure riding is that it just doesn't last very long anyway, so the chain stays dusty & muddy most of the day. ScottOilers help in these conditions because they constantly clean and lube the chain.

Keeping a modern sealed o- or x-ring chain clean is more important than any lube, IMHO. After a wash and de-gunk, spray with wd40 or crc5.56 to dewater and leave a light lube. Only if riding on-road for any length of time, I'll also apply some chain lube, but only because old habits die hard. Next chain, I will test the "wd40 only" method, foregoing chain lube completely. Many, many road riders report very good results from that. Cheap, quick, easy, clean & effective, by all accounts.

Totally with warewolf on this - I have 11 bikes and they all run O Ring chain.
when you are out in the mud nothing stays on.
Now I just wash my bikes and chains after a ride and CRC the chain to stop surface rust. I am experiencig no ill effects. (niether is the chain)

[Hitcher]

Is it hairy in nature?

No. But it's sticky.

[Sully60]

No. But it's sticky.

That's ok, if it had grey hairs it was obviously old and needed replacing.
As you were.

[Woodman]

I clean mine with crc or similar, and use tac2 as it sticks to the chain real good. A guy who used to race formula 3 put me onto it after normal chainlube flung onto his tyre and he crashed.

[slofox]

Have a can of Rock Oil Chain WAX (yes, WAX, not LUBE) which seems to work OK - not too much flogs off onto the rear tyre as long as you apply it little and often to keep the chain oiled up. Will probably try something different next time just for comparitive purposes...maybe...if I can be bothered...or remember...

[vifferman]

I clean mine with crc or similar, and use tac2 as it sticks to the chain real good. A guy who used to race formula 3 put me onto it after normal chainlube flung onto his tyre and he crashed.
He must've had a shitload of chainlube on his tyre for it to lube his tyre enough to make him crash!
Just another note: if you're going to use CRC or WD40, choose the latter.
No, I don't have shares in the company, but (IMHO) CRC is crap for both cleaning and lubing the chain.
I agree with Warewolf's comments regarding stuff sticking to chain lube - I've found the same thing when riding on gravel roads in The Far North a few years ago. I went to the local service station to buy some WD40, and they had only CRC5-56. Not only did it NOT remove the chain spooge+grit paste from the chain, but it seemed to have minimal lubing and waterproofing properties as well when I tried to rinse the chain using the motel's hose. I was really pissed off. Now I make sure I take a small spray can of WD40 on longer trips, so I can apply it if I ride in the wet and/or on unsealed roads.
If you ride in the wet, you'll find that even on the road you'll get some road spooge (including sand and grit) splashing off the swingarm and onto your chain. In these circumstances, a tacky chain lube can actually cause your chain's life to be shortened.

[XF650]

Oh great, another chain lube thread. But since someone else has started it....

I'v often wondered if chain lube helps reduce sprocket wear.
We know the o rings help keep the chain internals lubed, but what about where the roller outers and sprocket teeth meet - a high stress area I would have thought, especially with a thumper.
I mostly ride gravel on the Freewind, with all the associated dust / grit / road crud. Plus it goes places it wasn't designed for incl river crossings & mud.
So last year I fitted a Loobman & since then minimal chain adjustment required & sprocket wear seems to have stopped. The chain looks dirty but most of that is oil (I even stopped cleaning it).

There are too many variables in my obsevation to draw a scientific conclusion but with the XF at least, continueous oiled chain & sprockets (by whatever means) seems to help reduce wear.

[warewolf]

I'v often wondered if chain lube helps reduce sprocket wear.I think so, but most of the wear comes from the chain elongating.

[Scouse]

Maxima chain wax is the best shit, does not fling off like most of the other products.

[vifferman]

I wish my bike was belt drive...
Although chains still look better. Form before function FTW...

[vifferman]

Maxima chain wax is the best shit, does not fling off like most of the other products.
No, I disagree.
There's lots of shit that are better shit, like cowshit, dogshit, wombatshit...

[Bass]

Beware of automatic oilers off road.
Beware of sticky chain lubes off road.

Mate and I did 18000 km in Oz last year including heaps of deep dust and deep sand.

As we left Cooktown we fitted 13 tooth sprockets, a new one for me and a used one for my mate. I was running a Scott oiler, he was using an aerosol chain WAX (dries non-sticky).
I had the oiler set to dispense its whole contents every day. I figured that putting all that oil on the chain would flush the crap away.

Just short of Darwin, we fitted the 15 tooth sprockets again as we were in for a long haul on the seal. At that point we had done about 6000 km.
My 13 t sprocket was Fucked. It was close to turning inside the chain. My mates sprocket which started this leg second hand was pretty much untouched.

I can only conclude that the theories are right, that sticky chain lube + dust and dirt = grinding paste

Note that I said off road. I also have a Scott oiler on the Trumpy. The first chain and sprockets there, did 65,000km

[Tony W]

Right. Here we go.

On my DRZ400SM, used for on and off-roading, depending on what wheels are fitted, I went through my first set of O-ring chain and sprockets in 13,000km. The next O-ring chain lasted only 5000km before it started stretching and was dead at 10,000km.

So I bought an X-ring to see if I could get more longevity. The sprockets were good so I used them.

Now this is where it gets interesting.

I READ THE INSTRUCTIONS ON THE BOX THE CHAIN CAME IN !!!
--------------------------------------------------------------------------
Use 80W oil for lubrication. (good old gearbox oil)

(For the short lives of the previous chains I had been using an assortment of aerosol sprays only - I didn't want chain oil messing up the bike ! What a mistake that was)

The most important thing is to keep the O-RINGS LUBED.
If they are not they dry out and with heat and friction start wearing, making them thinner etc.
The factory lube then escapes and then gets repaced with all the nasty elements from the outside: dirt, water and more lube to make a beautiful grinding paste which wrecks the chain.

The instructions also state that the solvents contained in aerosol chain lubes DRY OUT the O-rings.

--------------------------------------------------------------------------
Well that was enough information for me to immediately change my ways !

I made up a "semi" automatic oiling system using a small plastic squeeze bottle, a length of car windscreen washer size clear plastic tubing and two BIC biro refills.
This is a "twin" oiling system which exits at each side of the rear sprocket and drops lube directly on each row of o-rings. It uses common 80W/90 gearbox oil as recommended. One just needs to give it a squeeze occasionally to get the oil flowing when needed. This also has the benefit of lubing the rollers and sprockets too.
Total cost about ...$5....!!!

Chain condition now after 11,000km: wear undetectable...

I rest the manufacturer's case.


To Scottoiler owners, if you haven't got a twin oiling system, only a single sided one, modify it to get even better results.

[cooneyr]

I wish my bike was belt drive...
Although chains still look better. Form before function FTW...

Dude you realise this is an adv forum. Stones and grit mean belt drives don't last that long as I understand.


Beware of automatic oilers off road.
Beware of sticky chain lubes off road....

I'm with you on this one. I had (still have the in garage somewhere) a twin head scotty setup on the DR650 just before I replaced the chain and sprockets. I figured I'd be pretty regimented about replacing the CS sprocket cause they seem to be the first part of the final drive train to show wear. First new 15 tooth JT sprocket started to show signs of wear at about 1500km and was off in 2000kms. Second did the same thing so I tried a Suzuki sprocket which was OK when I sold it some 3000km later.

I'm in the process of using up the scotty oil I have lying around by pulling the bike onto the side stand (damn heavy XTZ) and applying with a squeeze bottle. Chain is lubed when doing seal and left alone when on gravel. This level of lubing seemed to work well on the DR before the scotty and the XTZ's chain doesn't appear to be complaining either (done about 5000kms on the XTZ to date with not replacements). You just have to learn how much oil to squeeze on the chain and it is best to put it on the side plates not the centre as you get less fling. Will go back to gear oil when the scotty oil runs out.

Cheers R

[timg]

www.pro-oiler.com My Transalp is having it's 24000km/2yr service at present. First/original set of sprockets & chain is being replaced as well, more because it has reached the factory replace sticker rather than appearing knackered and it seemed prudent to do so rather then push my luck and have chain problems in the middle of the Rainbow or some other equally bugger of a place. At a guess 50% of it's mileage has been on gravel, clay or riverbed tracks etc incl water crossings. I reckon the Pro Oiler is a great piece of kit. Based on others chain stories, it would appear to have doubled the expected life expectancy of my chain & sprockets so has paid for itself already. The real beauty of this system is that the amount of oil applied to the chain (double sided delivery standard not an extra cost option like the competition) is governed by 1) speed and 2) an adjustable programable controller mounted in the cockpit you can adjust on the go. Whack it up when you hit shingle, leave it up high for several kms when you leave the shingle to wash the chain then turn it down low for the seal. Minimal fling off compared to the Scotty's I've watched in use. I clean the chain with Kero when I do my mid-service interval oil & air cleaner change ie every 6000km. Cheapest Warehouse engine oil works well but recently I've been using Scott Oiler ;) oil. ADV riders opinions on chain maintance is a bit like their opinions on tyre choice - varied and none is necessiarily wrong. Find something that works for you, suits your needs & budget. If you are looking at a double sided Scott Oiler, the Pro Oiler is a similar cost option but superior in my view. Cheers.

[NordieBoy]

Scottoiler and a good chain.

One RK 525 XSO chain lasted 8000km and was completely shagged. Adjusted before ride and needed 3 notches on the snail cam after.
Another identical chain and it's done 13000km and been adjusted 1 notch since new. Oh and it's the same sprockets as for the shot chain.

[babysteps]

Thank you gentlemen, lots to digest :2thumbsup

[Woodman]

I had an xl600 an i directed the crankcase breather onto the chain. It worked really well, just had to top the engine up occaisonally. Might try it on the klr cos the oil is going somewhere and I may as well make use of it. A pcv valve may be the thing to make it work even better.

[oldrider]

Pro_oiler, at last I am in control of my chain. :niceone:

No more expensive drive shafts for me. :ride: John.

[NordieBoy]

The problem with the crankcase breather is it also breathes in...

[warewolf]

The first auto-luber I used was one of these: Motrax Lubetronic (http://www.motrax.co.uk/index.php?page_name=product&product_id=969), bought in 1994(?). Still have it, and will fit it to the 640A "real soon now"...maybe. Seems like a similar thing to the pro-oiler, being electronic with a dial adjuster for a drip rate of every 15s to 2:15s.

I was never really very happy with it on my Triumph so replaced it with a ScottOiler HCR unit. I think the big problem was engine heat affecting the flow rate, and poor delivery to the chain by the single dripper forward of the rear sprocket. The rear-mounted Scottie had the same problem until I relocated the dripper to rest on the side of the rear sprocket.

The best delivery system is probably via brush; Pixie (http://www.kiwibiker.co.nz/forums/member.php?u=2453) sells them. I would be real interested to see if the brush physically removes dust/grit from an adventured chain.

And yeah, Bass I heed your warning. I reckon I destroyed 1.5 chains prematurely until I got the oiler working properly. Will certainly keep an eye on the Lubetronic if I decide to install it.

[oldrider]

Ask KB's "Pixie", he has a pretty good product that has really worked well for him. :ride: John.

[JATZ]

I had an xl600 an i directed the crankcase breather onto the chain. It worked really well, just had to top the engine up occaisonally. Might try it on the klr cos the oil is going somewhere and I may as well make use of it. A pcv valve may be the thing to make it work even better.

Did exactly that with the breather on the XT for a while, got very messy, very quickly, and the oil gets pretty hot too, not to sure if thats good for the chain.
FWIW. I lube the chain every fuel fill pretty much, only takes a few seconds and I don't think it can hurt, can it?

[bart]

Dumb question.........how much do these fancy automatic oilers cost compared to just replacing the chain every few thousand km's???? Personally I'm lucky to chew through a chain every 2 years. They aren't that expensive.

My advice is, cleaning the chain regularly is probably more important than lubrication. Just my thoughts. Shoot me down if you must.:bleh:

[NordieBoy]

Dumb question.........how much do these fancy automatic oilers cost compared to just replacing the chain every few thousand km's???? Personally I'm lucky to chew through a chain every 2 years. They aren't that expensive.

My advice is, cleaning the chain regularly is probably more important than lubrication. Just my thoughts. Shoot me down if you must.:bleh:

$60 for a Scotty and 30000km out of a DID X-ring.

[bart]

$60 for a Scotty and 30000km out of a DID X-ring.

Consider me shot down. I thought they were more expensive than that.

[Tony W]

Consider me shot down. I thought they were more expensive than that.

That would have been a good deal second hand one...

How much is a new twin delivery Scottoiler KBers ? $400 ?

[warewolf]

Dumb question.........how much do these fancy automatic oilers cost compared to just replacing the chain every few thousand km's????Factor in the cost of cans of chain lube versus oil, time to spray the chain and/or adjust it (not a lot each time, but a lot of times) plus costs of changing the chain & sprockets... labour, gaskets etc. Changing the front sprocket on the Triumph means dropping an engine/sidestand mounting bolt, removing the clutch slave cylinder, dumping the engine oil, and replacing a $20 gasket... just to get to it. Anything that reduces the frequency of that job saves quite a bit of money.

Mid-quality chain & sprocket set for the 640 cost $250 (2 fronts) per 12-18 months, highest-quality about $400+ per 18-24 months. If a $400 luber doubles the life of the chain, it can pay for itself in a couple of years.

[Tony W]

Bart a $5, 5 second squeeze applicator, pays for itself in one day, leaving you a free $395 gift voucher to go shopping for tyres !
Bring a few beers down and I'll fit one for ya !!!

[NordieBoy]

Consider me shot down. I thought they were more expensive than that.

68UK pounds + 20 pounds for the dual injector.
Still pays for itself over the life of 2 chains.

I wouldn't have a chain drive bike without one now.

[tri boy]

I prefer to whip peasant DR/KLR riders into submission, and hoist the scrambler, with myself seated comfortably astride it, onto their lower caste shoulders, and carry one self across the trails and tracks.
I guess I could use an elephant, but the noble creatures are expensive to feed, and DR peasants are a dollar a dozen.
Why wear out a perfectly good chain when Japanese adv bike riders are every where.
Pip Pip.

[NordieBoy]

I prefer to whip peasant DR/KLR riders into submission, and hoist the scrambler, with myself seated comfortably astride it, onto their lower caste shoulders, and carry one self across the trails and tracks.
I guess I could use an elephant, but the noble creatures are expensive to feed, and DR peasants are a dollar a dozen.
Why wear out a perfectly good chain when Japanese adv bike riders are every where.
Pip Pip.

Saves on petrol too.

[bart]

Bart a $5, 5 second squeeze applicator, pays for itself in one day, leaving you a free $395 gift voucher to go shopping for tyres !
Bring a few beers down and I'll fit one for ya !!!

Cheers Tony. I'm due a new chain very soon. If all goes well, It may have a new bike attached to it.

[Tony W]

Cheers Tony. I'm due a new chain very soon. If all goes well, It may have a new bike attached to it.

If you're purchasing a 9X0, don't bother turning up !!! :crybaby::crybaby::crybaby:

[OV Lander]

Scott oiler seems to be the way to go.......but........you could buy a couple of new chains for the price of the oiler.

My Scott Oiler works a treat. After 12k on the current chain and sprockets everything is still in A1 condition... PITA to fill though!

[OV Lander]

how much do these fancy automatic oilers cost compared to just replacing the chain every few thousand km's????

Of course it is not just the cost of the chain... ...the sprockets need changing too...!

[Woodman]

On the subject of chains:

How do you know when a chain is worn out, say if you have just purchased a used bike and maybe a few links have been removed etc. Do you check how much it bends sideways?
How do you guys tell or do you just replace it when you run out of adjustment.
My one has hardly stretched at all in 7000ks which is surprising considering the massive horsepower I have.

[Snails pace]

Have a scottoiler on my DL. For me it works a treat, I just fill and forget for 1500km. Have never cleaned the chain in my life. I notice after a gravel section of road, a few k's back on the tar, and the chain is clean once more. I generally use chainsaw chain bar oil in the scott. Looking back on my service record I have averaged 35000km lifespan out of chain and sprockets. But being a DL it is not serious off road. Just gravel and formed dirt roads. Has anyone used a diesil / oil (2:1) mix as a cleaner? A mechanic reckoned it was as good as CRC for rusty bolts. I spray the farm machinery (hay baler) with it, when storing, and it comes out ready to use.

[NordieBoy]

On the subject of chains:

How do you know when a chain is worn out, say if you have just purchased a used bike and maybe a few links have been removed etc. Do you check how much it bends sideways?
How do you guys tell or do you just replace it when you run out of adjustment.
My one has hardly stretched at all in 7000ks which is surprising considering the massive horsepower I have.

Try pulling it back off the rear sprocket.
If it exposes half the tooth height then it's getting shot.
Also tight links can be a problem.

[Woodman]

Try pulling it back off the rear sprocket.
If it exposes half the tooth height then it's getting shot.
Also tight links can be a problem.

Cheers, just went down to the shed and tried it. Its all good.:2thumbsup

[warewolf]

How do you know when a chain is worn outThere is a specification usually in your bike's manual that says to measure the length of so many links, with a certain weight on the lower run of chain (presumably to remove the slack).

A quick visual check is to try to pull the rear-most links off the rear sprocket. A new chain won't budge, a worn chain will lift off the base of the teeth somewhat. A rooted chain will lift off a lot. (Doh! Nordie beat me to it.)

Useful links can be found on the manufacturers' web sites, eg Regina Use & Maintenance (http://www.reginachain.it/eng/use_and_maintenance/how_to04.shtml).

[Oscar]

Meh.
I never kept a bike long enough to wear out a chain...

[Tony W]

XF650, some photos of 5 buck oiler.

+ a couple more on next page.

[Tony W]

some more pics.

[twotyred]

damn,I thought this thread was about something else...:buggerd:

[Crisis management]

some more pics.

That bikes too clean for an adventure bike and I note the use of non standard duct tape as an attachment device....no more blinging your bike!

[XF650]

XF650, some photos of 5 buck oiler.

+ a couple more on next page.

Thanks Tony. Loobman must have copied your set up??

[Padmei]

Good work tony. Wher did you get the bottle tubes etc - esp the lil metal bent one? I take it it is teed off to lube both sides? Also why is there a tee further up the line? breather? do you put your finger over it when squeezing then release?

(Damn I knew I should have been an investigative journalist :shutup:)

[Tony W]

Good work tony. Wher did you get the bottle tubes etc - esp the lil metal bent one? I take it it is teed off to lube both sides? Also why is there a tee further up the line? breather? do you put your finger over it when squeezing then release?

(Damn I knew I should have been an investigative journalist :shutup:)


I am IMPRESSED with your solid logic and your eagle eyes.:clap:

ALL your observations are correct !!!

" the little bent..." tube is a plastic BIC biro refill heated and bent.


Bottle and tube: " The Plastic Box " store (like Payless Plastics)
"P" clips: any electrical shop.
T junctions: Supercheap Auto.
M4 x 6mm screws: wherever.


Easy eh ?

[Tony W]

That bikes too clean for an adventure bike and I note the use of non standard duct tape as an attachment device....no more blinging your bike!

Bike is in "road mode" for the summer. Hence no mud !

Sorry about the tape, I'll remember to use something suitably down-market in future...!

[Padmei]

Thanks Tony it's back to the lab for me

Igor... put that down...

[meteor]

That bikes too clean for an adventure bike...
Is this more like it?:niceone:

[zeRax]

nope :P pretty clean!!

[Hitcher]

Tonight I scrubbed my chain shiny clean and then waxed it. I suspect that that won't be the last time.

[Underground]

Thanks Tony it's back to the lab for me

Igor... put that down...

Get two of everything you need and I'll take one (the second one not the dodgy first expiriment) that is if theres anything left after the fire .

[DarkLord]

One thing I discovered....

It is actually possible to over-lube a chain. Lubing it is great, but I got so insanely carried away with it all that my chain ended up totally drenched, so when I went for a ride the outer part of my rear tyre was covered in chain lube and was therefore far more slippery.

So though lubing it is good, don't get too carried away unless you want to risk low-siding the bike round a corner due to lube on the rear tyre.

[Oscar]

One thing I discovered....

It is actually possible to over-lube a chain. Lubing it is great, but I got so insanely carried away with it all that my chain ended up totally drenched, so when I went for a ride the outer part of my rear tyre was covered in chain lube and was therefore far more slippery.

So though lubing it is good, don't get too carried away unless you want to risk low-siding the bike round a corner due to lube on the rear tyre.

Over lubed chain = dust & dirt magnet.

[NordieBoy]

One thing I discovered....

It is actually possible to over-lube a chain. Lubing it is great, but I got so insanely carried away with it all that my chain ended up totally drenched, so when I went for a ride the outer part of my rear tyre was covered in chain lube and was therefore far more slippery.

So though lubing it is good, don't get too carried away unless you want to risk low-siding the bike round a corner due to lube on the rear tyre.
But the dust/gravel sorts it out so it's not slippery anymore.

[Padmei]

OMG so I don't lube it now?
Can we start this thread again?:dodge:

[Padmei]

Get two of everything you need and I'll take one (the second one not the dodgy first expiriment) that is if theres anything left after the fire .


MAHAHAHAHAHAHA
Have you had a close look at my mechanical aptitoe apditud skills?

[talbertnz]

Tony how do you control the flow?? do you have some sort of tap or valve? do you just fill the bottle before evry ride or something? am dead keen to make one!

[Oscar]

OMG so I don't lube it now?
Can we start this thread again?:dodge:

Too much lube is worse than no lube (on an O-Ring chain).

[Tony W]

Tony how do you control the flow?? do you have some sort of tap or valve? do you just fill the bottle before evry ride or something? am dead keen to make one!


Basically you are giving your chain a "shot" of oil.

1. Simply, place digit over open T junction.

2. Squeeze oil bottle until oil gets to 2nd T junction.

3. Let go of bottle, remove digit.

Oil then runs down twin pipes by gravity - oil runs back into bottle.

Apply any quantity at any time.

[Tony W]

Too much lube is worse than no lube (on an O-Ring chain).

That's an interesting theory...

You'd better expand on that one.

[Padmei]

1. Simply, place digit over open T junction.



Not much good for an analog kind of guy like myself:no:

[Oscar]

That's an interesting theory...

You'd better expand on that one.

O ring and X ring chains have lubricants sealed within, so overlubing your chain (particularly for use in dusty or sandy environments) is going to attract gunge to the chain, thereby accelerating wear on the O/X rings.

As most bikes now have O/X ring chains it's also worth checking that your lube is recommended for use with that type of chain, as some ordinary chain lubes have a carrier (adhesive) that damages sealing rings.

Also overlubing a chain (particularly before a ride, when things are cold) is going to result in most of it being flung off onto yer wheel/tyre anyway. The idea is to spray it on and wipe off the excess.

Here's a quote from an interesting article on the Motorcyclist website:

http://www.motorcyclistonline.com/howto/122_0506_motorcycle_chain_lube/index.html


Q. If an O-ring chain lube doesn't need to get lubricant past the O-rings and inside the chain, what does it do for the chain then?

A: It keeps the chain from rusting, it lubricates the O-ring itself and it does provide some cushion effect between the chain roller and the sprocket, which reduces wear on the sprockets and increases the chain's life.

[zeRax]

wasnt warewolf going to do a wd40 only test for us :????

[Tony W]

O ring and X ring chains have lubricants sealed within, so overlubing your chain (particularly for use in dusty or sandy environments) is going to attract gunge to the chain, thereby accelerating wear on the O/X rings.

As most bikes now have O/X ring chains it's also worth checking that your lube is recommended for use with that type of chain, as some ordinary chain lubes have a carrier (adhesive) that damages sealing rings.

Also overlubing a chain (particularly before a ride, when things are cold) is going to result in most of it being flung off onto yer wheel/tyre anyway. The idea is to spray it on and wipe off the excess.

Here's a quote from an interesting article on the Motorcyclist website:


http://www.motorcyclistonline.com/howto/122_0506_motorcycle_chain_lube/index.html (http://www.motorcyclistonline.com/howto/122_0506


_motorcycle_chain_lube/index.html)



I refer you to my first post on this thread; #30 on page 2.

[Oscar]

I refer you to my first post on this thread; #30 on page 2.

That's fine, but I was talking about too much lube (putting the oil on the outside of the chain for example).
I figure that Bel-Ray, PJ1 etc, have spent a deal of time investigating the subject and I'm happy enough to use their product rather than straight oil.
I'm not sure about the wisdom of Scott Oilers on gravel or sand, as well.

BTW - I wouldn't put a new chain on used sprockets either.

[Tony W]

BTW - I wouldn't put a new chain on used sprockets either.

I would.

Don't always believe anything anybody tells you. Try it for yourself, you may be pleasantly surprised !

[Padmei]

OK spent 3 days in the lab & after rogering Igor senseless :buggerd:
made up my TonyWTM chain oiler.

Gear:
2m x 5mm clear tube $1.40/m (vs $11 @ supercheap!) & smallish bottle $1.25 - payless plastics

2x 6mm Tees $5 each !! @ Supercheap - only place I could find them.:oi-grr:

3oomm x brakeline courtesy of my lil friends @ pitstop

All seemed to go together pretty well. The brakeline was great for getting in the right possy for dripping. Tip - use water to test it out first.

Replaced water with gooold Briggs & stratton mower engine oil I got with my mower 15 yrs ago that I've never changed yet. Why? - just to piss people off:girlfight:
Will hide bottle under side cover & fix in place with a couple of 32mm metal saddles
God I love cableties as much as I love smilies- my bike is covered with them:hug:

The reservations I have are - that it works:crazy: the cheap bottle may not last & empty oil over my brakes & tyres, the oil can supposedly make the tube swell.
Anyway sorry for the rambling here are the pics

[Oscar]

I would.

Don't always believe anything anybody tells you. Try it for yourself, you may be pleasantly surprised !

I can't see the point of wrecking an expensive chain on worn sprockets that cost a fraction of what the chain did.

[Tony W]

I can't see the point of wrecking an expensive chain on worn sprockets that cost a fraction of what the chain did.

I agree .

In this case the sprockets were not.

[Tony W]

Padmate,
looks as though you blew the budget on the tees !!!

Good luck with the trial.

I've done a lot of experimentation with bottle positioning.

If for some unexplained reason your bottle starts delivering oil continuously, even though it defies logic, what it is, is dust getting in the threads of the red cap on the bottle allowing air to gain entry and therefore letting gravity do its job.

I have ended up looping the tube above the oil level to avoid this.

Also if your pipes are too near the chain it could flick up in certain cicumstances and hit the pipes. ( I too had my first attempt exiting inside the chain guide )
Too far away and you could have a windage problem redirecting your drops away from the target.
Only time will tell.

Good effort.

[marks]

OK spent 3 days in the lab & after rogering Igor senseless :buggerd:

I would like to point out that Padmei is not a typical KLR rider.

[Padmei]

I would like to point out that Padmei is not a typical KLR rider.

Damn right I spent $10 on tees :doh:

I have the bottle turned vert to stop oil running down. Hopefully the tubes don't get pulled off

[JATZ]

Damn right I spent $10 on tees :doh:

I have the bottle turned vert to stop oil running down. Hopefully the tubes don't get pulled off

You also got done for the clear hose. I coulda sold you some of that for $1.00 a meter, saved y'self 80 cents ('course it would have been a hundred odd k round trip)

Probly could have found some t's too

[Padmei]

You also got done for the clear hose. I coulda sold you some of that for $1.00 a meter, saved y'self 80 cents ('course it would have been a hundred odd k round trip)

Probly could have found some t's too


:doh::doh:

[Hitcher]

:doh::doh:

Another wordless effort. Gah!

[marks]

Another wordless effort. Gah!

yeah but he does it with such emotion

BTW Padmei - I hope Igor wasn't too sore to ride his Beemer home afterwards

[Padmei]

yeah but he does it with such emotion

BTW Padmei - I hope Igor wasn't too sore to ride his Beemer home afterwards

oh thats very good:wari:

[CrazyFrog]

O ring and X ring chains have lubricants sealed within, so overlubing your chain (particularly for use in dusty or sandy environments) is going to attract gunge to the chain, thereby accelerating wear on the O/X rings.

I lightly oiled my chain yesterday before heading off down to Anatori and beyond.
First 150km was sealed road, then 70km gravel, then into the sand dunes past Anaweka River. The chain was sufficiently dusty before I reached the dunes, and after 20 mins of playing in the sand, the chain looked nice and clean, no sand stuck around the o-rings, the whole thing actually looked polished. Relubed it once I got back onto the seal again, only after I had give it a good sluicing crossing a couple of rivers and another 70km gravel back to the sealed road.
Minimum lubing works for me whenever heading off into the dirt/sandy conditions, because the sealed o-ring/x-ring chains should do their job of keeping the roller grease intact. I've always found most heavy aerosol chain lubes attract far too much gunk to the chain, turning dust and dirt into a heavy grinding paste.
I'm not too bothered about changing chains every 10-15,000km anyway, they're only the same price of a tyre which only last half that distance. In my view, it's the price you pay for getting off the beaten track.

[Oscar]

I lightly oiled my chain yesterday before heading off down to Anatori and beyond.
First 150km was sealed road, then 70km gravel, then into the sand dunes past Anaweka River. The chain was sufficiently dusty before I reached the dunes, and after 20 mins of playing in the sand, the chain looked nice and clean, no sand stuck around the o-rings, the whole thing actually looked polished. Relubed it once I got back onto the seal again, only after I had give it a good sluicing crossing a couple of rivers and another 70km gravel back to the sealed road.
Minimum lubing works for me whenever heading off into the dirt/sandy conditions, because the sealed o-ring/x-ring chains should do their job of keeping the roller grease intact. I've always found most heavy aerosol chain lubes attract far too much gunk to the chain, turning dust and dirt into a heavy grinding paste.
I'm not too bothered about changing chains every 10-15,000km anyway, they're only the same price of a tyre which only last half that distance. In my view, it's the price you pay for getting off the beaten track.

It's funny you should say that, as I was thinking that there might be summat in this Scott Oiler business. But then I realised that even with a minimal chain lube regime (pretty much as you described) my bike still has the original chain on it after 12,500ks and it ain't looking too bad. Now considering my Adventure does actually get adventure ridden in sand and mud and gravel. Added to this it also gets the snot caned out of it from time to time to the tune of a hundred ponies, so the fact that it looks good for another 5000km is nae bad.

Your name belies your obvious wisdom, Mr. Frog.

[Hitcher]

New-to-chain-lubing me put too much wax on my chain the other day. Most of it ran out around the front sprocket and created a pool of ooze under the Shiver whilst stopped in Masterton's heat for some sustenance. "Gah! What's fucked?" I enquired, demonstrating my profound technical competence to all within earshot. The smell of the ooze revealed much, to my blessed relief.

[babysteps]

This thread rocks, there is so much good information within its pages I think it deserves a sticky :yes:

[Oscar]

This thread rocks, there is so much good information within its pages I think it deserves a sticky :yes:

Probably needs some stuff about chain tension too.
If yer chain is too tight or too loose it can accelerate chain and sprocket wear and cause problems with gear changes.

And another thing I just thought off for the guys who spend a fair bit of time off-road - you might wanna remove that countershaft sprocket cover. In mucky conditions it can fill up with crap and derail yer chain.

Most trail or adventure bikes have a much smaller case protector under the large cover. Take the top one off and you'll find a half round doohickey underneath that goes between the chain and yer cases (to stop the cases getting smashed if the chain breaks).

[Winston001]

OK spent 3 days in the lab & after rogering Igor senseless :buggerd:
made up my TonyWTM chain oiler.

Gear:
2m x 5mm clear tube $1.40/m (vs $11 @ supercheap!) & smallish bottle $1.25 - payless plastics

2x 6mm Tees $5 each !! @ Supercheap - only place I could find them.:oi-grr:

3oomm x brakeline courtesy of my lil friends @ pitstop

All seemed to go together pretty well. The brakeline was great for getting in the right possy for dripping. Tip - use water to test it out first.

Replaced water with gooold Briggs & stratton mower engine oil I got with my mower 15 yrs ago that I've never changed yet. Why? - just to piss people off:girlfight:
Will hide bottle under side cover & fix in place with a couple of 32mm metal saddles .....

Great job and very interesting.

Might I suggest the addition of a small tap in the line. A 4mm irrigation-tube tap will work. That way you can turn the oil supply off thus avoiding leaks in the garage.

4mm irrigation line would work too instead of the clear plastic. Easy to get T-joints too.

[Padmei]

Great job and very interesting.

Might I suggest the addition of a small tap in the line. A 4mm irrigation-tube tap will work. That way you can turn the oil supply off thus avoiding leaks in the garage.

4mm irrigation line would work too instead of the clear plastic. Easy to get T-joints too.

Thanks. I think I would use it whilst riding. squeeze the bottle at a gas station fill up then let it trickle down whilst riding away. The bottle stays in upright position so hopefully no leakage.

[marks]

And another thing I just thought off for the guys who spend a fair bit of time off-road - you might wanna remove that countershaft sprocket cover. In mucky conditions it can fill up with crap and derail yer chain.

you mean a bit like this?

<img src=http://webcoda.com/images/bike/PICT1171.jpg>

[Oscar]

you mean a bit like this?




Nice work!
I'd say having the cover on or not would become irrelevant at that point....

[warewolf]

you mean a bit like this?Doing 2/3/6-hour cross countries in conditions like that have made me a little disinterested in any theoretical chain maintenance regimes :weep: Any debates about oil/wax/wd-40 etc etc are all just like re-arranging deck chairs on the Titanic...

[NordieBoy]

And another thing I just thought off for the guys who spend a fair bit of time off-road - you might wanna remove that countershaft sprocket cover. In mucky conditions it can fill up with crap and derail yer chain.

Had it fill up but never derail :D
http://www.photostorage.nelson.geek.nz/sports/motorsport/dirt/20070722%203-Hour%20Cross%20Country/slides/20070722-162336.jpg

[Oscar]

Had it fill up but never derail :D


DR200's were chronic for it.
XR200RE's could smash cases with it...like I did at the '86 Nationals...mutter..mutter...

[DR Girl]

TONY W : You did such a great job on my straight pipe & off road quick release no plate/tail light bracket, any chance you could knock me up one of those twin chain beauties for the 200 too ???
I'll find you a box of greenies !!!!!:msn-wink:

[Tony W]

TONY W : You did such a great job on my straight pipe & off road quick release no plate/tail light bracket, any chance you could knock me up one of those twin chain beauty's for the 200 too ???
I'll find you a box of greenies !!!!!:msn-wink:

Only if you correctly spell the plural of "beauty" first.:girlfight:

That will be Heineken, now...:drool:

[DR Girl]

Done, to both Spellmaster!!!!:Oops::laugh:
See original post !!!!

[Tony W]

TONY W : You did such a great job on my straight pipe & off road quick release no plate/tail light bracket, any chance you could knock me up one of those twin chain beauties for the 200 too ???
I'll find you a box of greenies !!!!!:msn-wink:


I've had that home made oiler on the 400, ever since you've known me.
Now it's "all over the internet" all of a sudden, you want one !

How shallow...:no:

[Tony W]

TONY W : any chance you could knock me up !!:msn-wink:


Sorry, I have a headache...

[DR Girl]

I've had that home made oiler on the 400, ever since you've known me.
Now it's "all over the internet" all of a sudden, you want one !

How shallow...:no:

CHEEKY 1!! The thing is, ever since I've known you you've used the 400 as a commuter & Adventure Bike, not a dirt bike!!! Until I read this thread always thought an oil-er was not necessary on an on/off road bike! Too much lube = too much mud/dirt on chain = wear !!! Also thought your oil-er continually emitted oil! Didn't understand the finer dynamics of SUCH PERFECTION!!:violin:

[DR Girl]

sorry, i have a headache...

damm it !!!:D

[Tony W]

CHEEKY 1!! The thing is ever since I've known you, you're used the 400 as a commuter & Adventure Bike, not a dirt bike!!! Until I read this thread always thought an oil-er was not necessary on an on/off road bike! Too much lube = too much mud/dirt on chain = wear !!! Also thought your oil-er continually emitted oil! Didn't understand the finer dynamics of SUCH PERFECTION!!:violin:



That's because you're a woman...:argue:

[Padmei]

Well the TonyW oiler needs a couple of tweaks after its outing in the real world. The chain moves up & down a tad & hit the ends of the drippers closing the holes on the ends. Back to the lab again... IGOR take that off...

[Tony W]

Well the TonyW oiler needs a couple of tweaks after its outing in the real world. The chain moves up & down a tad & hit the ends of the drippers closing the holes on the ends. Back to the lab again... IGOR take that off...

I can just see your final solution !:devil2:


(post #91)

[Padmei]

Damn why don't I read the important bits.

[Winston001]

Well the TonyW oiler needs a couple of tweaks after its outing in the real world. The chain moves up & down a tad & hit the ends of the drippers closing the holes on the ends. Back to the lab again... IGOR take that off...

Move it up the sprocket a bit. Which I'm sure you are doing.

I'm installing a Loobman at the moment and have some ideas for improving it after reading this thread. Thanks guys.

Question: - what do you suggest for pipe to drip the oil? I'm going to try a bit of brakeline but it looks like its about 5mm and will need to be crimped. What sort of metal tube can be obtained with a smaller diameter but able to be (carefully) bent into shape?

Incidentally Tony, using a pen refill cartridge is genius. :2thumbsup:

One addition I've made to the Loobman is a 4mm inline irrigation tap so I can close off the oil supply near the dripper. The only problem is it requires a bit of force to turn which means it really should be fixed in position. Otherwise pipe and tap twist which ain't going to last long.

[Tony W]

Winnie, have you considered the BIC ?

They are strong and/but flexible, good I/D, readily available.

Now that I have ironed the bugs out of my system, I cannot fault it.

Just a 10 second squeeze of the bottle when required = a really happy chain !:niceone:

[Padmei]

Aren't the BICs plastic tube? IIRC they launched a facelift model in 87 but didn't sell as well so went back to the original with a reground modulator & specific tempered exhaust nozzle...

[Tony W]

Aren't the BICs plastic tube? IIRC they launched a facelift model in 87 but didn't sell as well so went back to the original with a reground modulator & specific tempered exhaust nozzle...

Yes they are plastic, that's why they are so suitable for the purpose.

[Steve L]

I made an chain oiler for $6.00 with eveything brought from payless plastics, a bottle 1 met of 5mm 1 met of 3mm pvc tube and a alloy brakect home made with a bic biro end cut off to take the ball out, then adjust the hole with pilers to adjust the flow of oil. I use chain bar oil can be brought in small bottles. As in photos i have a tap fitted which is now moved closer to engine so i can turn it off and on while riding ,i just prime i up when filling bottle and use tap to turn on and off . Works shit hot the best $6.00 bucks ive spent on the bike.

http://i41.tinypic.com/rwkoqt.jpg

http://i39.tinypic.com/etscag.jpg

http://i39.tinypic.com/o8c6dl.jpg

[Tony W]

If that's NOT a twin oiler, Steve, you realise it's going to cost an extra 50 cents to covert it !!! ;)

[DR Girl]

:oi-grr:
If that's NOT a twin oiler, Steve, you realise it's going to cost an extra 50 cents to covert it !!! ;)

Have those Heinekens!!! Wondering, :oi-grr: wheres mine??? :wait: :wait: :wait: :( :( :weep: :weep:

[Winston001]

Yes they are plastic, that's why they are so suitable for the purpose.

Ah I thought you used a metal refill. Wouldn't metal be better in that it could stand a bit of abuse and contact with the sprocket? Looking at the Loobman and various other oilers invented by clever folk, it seems that strength, rigidity, and contact with the sprocket around the 8:00 o'clock position is optimum.

If I find nothing else I plan to crimp the brake-line end around a thick needle thus giving a small outlet. Or sort through the bundle of old pens I just spotted 500mm from my desk. :yes: Have also though about crimping some paintbrush fibres in which would deliver the oil nicely. Except surely they would wear out/heat up and melt?

Like it Steve - where'd you get the tap? Looks bigger and better than the one I got but Payless Plastics told me last Saturday they only had plastic tube, no fittings....? You can get 13mm taps which fit normal hoses and I may yet do that for the ease of use - not as fiddly as 4mm. But it requires adapting down to the 4mm tube. No biggie just more bits to assemble.

[Tony W]

:oi-grr:

Have those Heinekens!!! Wondering, :oi-grr: wheres mine??? :wait: :wait :( :( :weep: ::

:Oi: What ??? ....DID you think I was coming to YOU ???!!!


Buy ALL the bits and we'll see you.:sleep:

[Padmei]

, and contact with the sprocket around the 8:00 o'clock position is optimum.

.

I have dinner around 8 oclock:(

[Tony W]

Ah I thought you used a metal refill. Wouldn't metal be better in that it could stand a bit of abuse and contact with the sprocket? Looking at the Loobman and various other oilers invented by clever folk, it seems that strength, rigidity, and contact with the sprocket around the 8:00 o'clock position is optimum.

If I find nothing else I plan to crimp the brake-line end around a thick needle thus giving a small outlet. Or sort through the bundle of old pens I just spotted 500mm from my desk. :yes: Have also though about crimping some paintbrush fibres in which would deliver the oil nicely. Except surely they would wear out/heat up and melt?

Like it Steve - where'd you get the tap? Looks bigger and better than the one I got but Payless Plastics told me last Saturday they only had plastic tube, no fittings....? You can get 13mm taps which fit normal hoses and I may yet do that for the ease of use - not as fiddly as 4mm. But it requires adapting down to the 4mm tube. No biggie just more bits to assemble.

BIC material is better than metal for this purpose. Metal bends and crushes on severe contact. If you use BIC you will " have great success " !!

[JATZ]

Ah I thought you used a metal refill. Wouldn't metal be better in that it could stand a bit of abuse and contact with the sprocket? Looking at the Loobman and various other oilers invented by clever folk, it seems that strength, rigidity, and contact with the sprocket around the 8:00 o'clock position is optimum.

If I find nothing else I plan to crimp the brake-line end around a thick needle thus giving a small outlet. Or sort through the bundle of old pens I just spotted 500mm from my desk. :yes: Have also though about crimping some paintbrush fibres in which would deliver the oil nicely. Except surely they would wear out/heat up and melt?

Like it Steve - where'd you get the tap? Looks bigger and better than the one I got but Payless Plastics told me last Saturday they only had plastic tube, no fittings....? You can get 13mm taps which fit normal hoses and I may yet do that for the ease of use - not as fiddly as 4mm. But it requires adapting down to the 4mm tube. No biggie just more bits to assemble.

Try a garden centre or irrigation supply shop, I do a wee bit of irrigation instalation, and we have plenty of small taps like that at work, also small tee's and bits and pieces.

[Tony W]

I have dinner around 8 oclock:(


Finish your dinner, and just copy my positioning !!

I have done the hard yards so you guys can have it easy...:done:

[Tony W]

Try a garden centre or irrigation supply shop, I do a wee bit of irrigation instalation, and we have plenty of small taps like that at work, also small tee's and bits and pieces.

FFS JATZ, WE'RE NOT WATERING THE FKN GARDEN HERE......!:slap:


...put your Mrs on please, she sounds sensible...:D

[Winston001]

Try a garden centre or irrigation supply shop, I do a wee bit of irrigation instalation, and we have plenty of small taps like that at work, also small tee's and bits and pieces.

Cheers. Tried Mitre 10 Mega last Saturday which is where I found the 4mm tap. Irrigation stuff as you say. Now I've decided 4m is too fiddly to turn and want a bigger tap so......maybe I'll try a 13mm. Sigh. That's $1.45 wasted....:doh:Plus I'll have to adapt it down to 4/5mm. More cost.....:blank:

Expensive hobby chaps. Think I'll try and sell a couple on Tardme once I get it sorted - naturally giving credit where due - call it the TonyW II Oiler.....:bleh:

[NordieBoy]

I have dinner around 8 oclock:(

8pm is second dinner time.

[NordieBoy]

...put your Mrs on please, she sounds sensible...:D

Soooo many answers just crying out to be heard!

:Pokey:

[Padmei]

FFS JATZ,

...put your Mrs on please, she sounds sensible...:D


:rofl:



sillyfuckentencharacterrule

[Steve L]

Try a garden centre or irrigation supply shop, I do a wee bit of irrigation instalation, and we have plenty of small taps like that at work, also small tee's and bits and pieces.

JATZ Got the tap from a mate he said they were lawn mower fuel taps, I think the barbs are 6mm but 5mm pvc tube pushs on good as gold. What I like
about the tap is its adjustable the ,more you turn it the more it flows between it and the bic pen nozzle you can get it to dip fast or slow.

[JATZ]

JATZ Got the tap from a mate he said they were lawn mower fuel taps, I think the barbs are 6mm but 5mm pvc tube pushs on good as gold. What I like
about the tap is its adjustable the ,more you turn it the more it flows between it and the bic pen nozzle you can get it to dip fast or slow.

AAAAH, thats where I'd seen one before, couldn't quite place it. The company I work for also does hire gear and we have shitloads of broken down small engines and machinery, if the irrigation stuff doesn't work, i'll try some small engine stuff

[JATZ]

FFS JATZ, WE'RE NOT WATERING THE FKN GARDEN HERE......!:slap:


...put your Mrs on please, she sounds sensible...:D

Y'but if it all goes pear shaped and doesn't work you can use the bits in the garden irritation, sensible or WHAT !

[XF650]

Loobman's don't have a tap & only require one squeeze of the bottle per tank of gas. Any more than that & it will keep dribbling after you have stopped moving. The exception maybe after riding through deep water (if the oil has been washed off the chain), you may want to give the feed another 'charge' then.
On any manual system I have seen, oil thickness / viscosity and temp may effect flow rate, so a bit of trial & error required. Certainly a tap should help stop residual oil in the lines from dripping on the garage floor.

[Tony W]

Loobman's don't have a tap & only require one squeeze of the bottle per tank of gas. Any more than that & it will keep dribbling after you have stopped moving. The exception maybe after riding through deep water (if the oil has been washed off the chain), you may want to give the feed another 'charge' then.
On any manual system I have seen, oil thickness / viscosity and temp may effect flow rate, so a bit of trial & error required. Certainly a tap should help stop residual oil in the lines from dripping on the garage floor.



Guys, just to reiterate what XF said, you don't really need a tap, if you have designed your systems on the "shot" basis.

The trouble with taps is you have to stop again to turn them off. OR if you forget you can accidentally leave them on while the bike is parked.:( ....messy

[Winston001]

Guys, just to reiterate what XF said, you don't really need a tap, if you have designed your systems on the "shot" basis.

The trouble with taps is you have to stop again to turn them off. OR if you forget you can accidentally leave them on while the bike is parked.:( ....messy

Understood Tony - one shot per ride or fuel tank fill, something like that. I for one don't expect a continuous flow.

However if your ride is short, being able to turn the oil flow off when you get home is useful.

As for oil, chainsaw oil which has anti-throw properties seems like a good option.

And thanks for the small-engine tap suggestion, in fact a m/c tank tap would work too. :2thumbsup:

[vifferman]

I know this is an ADV/DP thread, but it seemed sorta the right place to post.
Spent quite a bit of time cleaning Motul chain lube from my chain last night. Took half a litre of kero to get most of it off (although no doubt there's probably still a couple of kilos of chain spooge caked around the inside of the countershaft sprocket cover. Gah! and all that...
The chain was much quieter, and the bike changed gears a little easier this morning. I'm not going to use the Motul again. It's suposedly a grease, but it's the first grease I've seen that has the consistency of old gorilla snot.
Tonight I'm going to buy some WD40 and go over the chain with that. Eventually I'd like to have summat like the ProOiler (Phark! They're expensive!) So I'll probably have to opt for a variation of the TonyW luber instead, or stick with WD40 or Spectro Chainwax.

And I still have to pull bits off my bike and blowtorch off all the chain spooge caked here'n'there (i.e., from arsehole to breakfast).
Feckin chain lube....

[JATZ]

I know this is an ADV/DP thread, but it seemed sorta the right place to post.
Spent quite a bit of time cleaning Motul chain lube from my chain last night. Took half a litre of kero to get most of it off (although no doubt there's probably still a couple of kilos of chain spooge caked around the inside of the countershaft sprocket cover. Gah! and all that...
The chain was much quieter, and the bike changed gears a little easier this morning. I'm not going to use the Motul again. It's suposedly a grease, but it's the first grease I've seen that has the consistency of old gorilla snot.
Tonight I'm going to buy some WD40 and go over the chain with that. Eventually I'd like to have summat like the ProOiler (Phark! They're expensive!) So I'll probably have to opt for a variation of the TonyW luber instead, or stick with WD40 or Spectro Chainwax.

And I still have to pull bits off my bike and blowtorch off all the chain spooge caked here'n'there (i.e., from arsehole to breakfast).
Feckin chain lube....

I got one of the BIG (standard oiler connected to a big reservoir behind the number plate) scottoilers on the Triumph and the chain is always clean and shiney, no road "spooge" at all.

[Dolph]

but,...about how much does a Scottoiler cost,...fitted ??? :crazy:

[Tony W]

Guys, what kind of wear causes a chain to go loose then tight on the sprockets when you rotate the wheel ?

...and no not my chain... a mate's on a 610 Husky motard on which he's used BelRay aerosol.

[vifferman]

but,...about how much does a Scottoiler cost,...fitted ??? :crazy:
They're about $240. Fit it yourself.

[Woodman]

Guys, what kind of wear causes a chain to go loose then tight on the sprockets when you rotate the wheel ?

...and no not my chain... a mate's on a 610 Husky motard on which he's used BelRay aerosol.

Is the rear sprocket concentric with the wheel bearings.

[NordieBoy]

Guys, what kind of wear causes a chain to go loose then tight on the sprockets when you rotate the wheel ?

...and no not my chain... a mate's on a 610 Husky motard on which he's used BelRay aerosol.

Stretching unevenly?

[Winston001]

Guys, what kind of wear causes a chain to go loose then tight on the sprockets when you rotate the wheel ?



Oh mate!! I got bashed in a thread on this very question - my fault, prickly posters.

Anyway, chains are not perfect - every piece of metal has inherent flaws that eventually lead to uneven wear. Sudden stress like wheelies can stretch a specific part of the chain. In my case the chain got too slack on a long journey and began to get grabbed by the sprockets.

[LBD]

Oh mate!! I got bashed in a thread on this very question - my fault, prickly posters.

Anyway, chains are not perfect - every piece of metal has inherent flaws that eventually lead to uneven wear. Sudden stress like wheelies can stretch a specific part of the chain. In my case the chain got too slack on a long journey and began to get grabbed by the sprockets.

I am with Winnie. It is a stretched section of chain, replace now or you run the risk of damaging you counter shaft bearing by having the chain too tight then loose. This happens if you adjust your chain at the slack section.

Regarding lube, I carry a small squirt bottle of scott oil or similar and when I have stop for fuel or cuppa, then before I take of, I put a small trickle either side of the sprocket and let the centrafual force do the rest.

[babysteps]

LBD, WTF were you doing awake at 4.18 this morning??

[Winston001]

LBD, WTF were you doing awake at 4.18 this morning??

Cos it was 9:18pm. Don't believe everything you read on the net. :D