HID Headlight Replacement - VTR250

[Anarkist]

Hi all.

I'm looking at a HID replacement headlight for my 2002 Honda VTR250 but am slightly confused about the size of the bulb that replaces it.

Firstly, does anyone know whether my 2002 model VTR250Y would use the 'H4' type fitting?

The specific type I'm looking at getting is here (http://www.amalgamate2000.com/sales/hid__xenon_discharge_lamps.htm)

I'm aware about the potential illegality of the said headlight, however can anyone advise on how hard this will be to potentially wire up?

Many thanks. :niceone:

[vifferman]

Hondas usually use weird non-H4 halogen bulbs: they're 45/55W, and the pins on the base are a slightly different angle. These bulbs are available from Honda dealers only.
You can replace them with higher wattage H4 bulbs by buying an adaptor ring, or by bending the lower two tabs back and over a thin nail that fits into the recesses in the bulb holder on the back of the headlight reflector.
Sorry - can't help you with the HID thing. But I've found that rewiring the headlight with fat wires to the battery and a relay, then fitting a higher wattage bulb is very effective. I had a VF500 with a 90/130W bulb, and the exact same bulb on my VTR1000. (It worked great on the VF, as the reflector was a good shape, but I didn't do the wiring on the VTR, and corroded/loose pins on the wiring plug overheated the plug.)

[samgab]

Firstly, does anyone know whether my 2002 model VTR250Y would use the 'H4' type fitting?

I don't know what the "Y" after the VTR250 means, but if it's a 2002 MC33 VTR250 like mine, then it takes a standard H4 globe.
It's 12V - 60/55W, H4, just like in most Jap cars.

I don't know about the HID conversion, but if it will work in an H4 fitting, then it will work. As for other stuff like mounting the ballast - and potential temperature issues inside the light fitting etc... Can't help you with that.

I'm eventually going to get a Narva Blue H4 bulb. They have some very high colour temp globes available now, which are standards approved, so no WOF issues, and they look cool. Not AS cool as HID, but still cooler than yellow light.

[samgab]

Narva globes,
As a cheaper alternative to HID:
http://media.narva.com.au/books/4.pdf

Check out pages 17, 23, and 24.

Arctic blue has been out for a while, at 4000K, but now there's:

Blue Power, only 3750K, but more light output for the wattage.
"80% more light, 20% whiter light"
or
Platinum at 4300K
or
Ultra Blue at 5000K.

All of the above work at the same wattage as standard bulbs, with no increase in power consumption or heat.

Blue Power and Arctic blue are ADR approved, and won't have any WOF issues.
Not sure about Platinum and Ultra Blue, but I'd be surprised if you had any issues with them nowadays, with the prevalence of Euro cars coming standard with very blue HID lights, like 8000K or 10000K.

[carlosliu]

I'm eventually going to get a Narva Blue H4 bulb. They have some very high colour temp globes available now, which are standards approved, so no WOF issues, and they look cool. Not AS cool as HID, but still cooler than yellow light.

That's interesting. Do you know where can I get them?

[samgab]

That's interesting. Do you know where can I get them?

Hi there. Yes, Repco have them, among others.

Good to see you there last night, and to see another VTR there too! :)

[samgab]

I'm probably going to get Blue Power.
They're not as blue as some of the others, but usually when you go to a higher colour temp, there is a sacrifice in terms of lumens, or visibility.
But the Blue Power is the best of both worlds, both whiter than standard, and also much brighter; and a straight replacement, with no messing about with upgraded wiring etc.

[vifferman]

Don't bother with blue bulbs. (http://www.danielsternlighting.com/tech/bulbs/blue/blue.html)
They 'look' brighter, but as the human eye doesn't respond well to light at the blue end of the spectrum, they actually cause your eye to see less well by dazzling it somewhat. The apparent brightness is not translated into actually being able to see more. All they do is piss off other road users more.
Oh - and waste your hard-earned coin.

[cs363]

This subject has been well covered here: http://www.kiwibiker.co.nz/forums/showthread.php?t=80161


Summary: Vifferman is 100% correct re colour temperatures - lower will in fact give you better vision, sure the blue/white/purple ones look cool if that's what you want but don't expect them to work well on the open road.

HID lights are illegal in anything but an HID housing, so you'll have trouble at WOF time. Not only that the light won't be as good as a true HID as the lens and reflector aren't designed for it and then there's the colour temp thing again.....

[CookMySock]

HID lamps run cooler and draw less power than incandescent lamps. You must securely ground the metal lamp housing to prevent electromagnetic interference, unless it is grounded to the bike by its mounting points.

You will greatly enjoy having HID lamps - oncoming, they look spectacular even on dip beam, and they blaze like the sun is behind you - absolutely impressive! If you flip them on fullbeam, no one will pull out in front of you as you look like a freight train. They have been a very important safety upgrade for us.

They are trivial to hook up - just install the lamp in the housing (dont touch the glass tube), mount the inverter/ballast (double sided tape and cable ties), connect the lamp to the ballast (dont cut or nick this wiring as it carries the 20,000v ignition voltage) and then crimp on some connectors to attach to your bikes wiring.

I have two bikes converted, and they both pass WOF without question, and the WOF issuer is fully aware of the mods. In any case, its trivial to put the factory bulb back in for WOF purposes - much akin to putting the quiet exhaust on to pass the WOF.

Do it - you will love the results. I'm tempted to sell complete kits for bikes, with instructions, ala amalgamate.

best regards,
Steve

[breakaway]

^ Did you fix the problem with your dash locking solid?

[CookMySock]

^ Did you fix the problem with your dash locking solid?Yeah bro, my plastic dash housing is mounted directly to the plastic headlamp housing, which was subject to a 20,000 volt pulse when the HID is ignited. I grounded the internal metal headlamp structure and never had the problem again.

I don't know if this would have saved the grips controller.

Steve